Languedoc is the source of many of the world’s greatest wine values, as the region continues to push the envelope in terms of both quality and value, and given the region’s propensity for fashioning bold, beautiful red wines, recently enacted tariffs on wines under 14% alcohol should have little effect on the region or American consumers’ pocketbooks. The region’s deeply colored reds are also full of antioxidants, which can boost our immune systems in these times of trouble.

For starters, Languedoc is the world’s largest single viticultural area, encompassing many appellations and distinctive sub-regions – all of which are capable of producing fine wine. This sprawling viticultural wonderland stretches all the way from the Spanish border in the southwest, within sight of the towering Pyrenees, to the banks of the Rhône River far to the northeast. Languedoc cuts a huge swath of dry coastal plain and sheltered mountains from which flow the guts and the glory of French viticulture.

The Languedoc, whose name is synonymous with the language of southern France, was the first part of ancient Gaul to be extensively planted to the vine. And long before Caesar’s Roman legions had subdued the Gallic tribes, wine was big business in Languedoc. The Phoenicians passed this way, and not surprisingly the region’s beauty and superb conditions for the cultivation of the vine did not escape the first Greek colonists who planted vines there, making Languedoc the cradle of French viticulture in the fifth century BCE. For nearly two thousand years, Languedoc remained the “big dog” and premier purveyor of wine to France and the world. However, the glory of France’s most historic wine region – the birthplace of troubadours and Provençal, the lyrical language of poetry – came to a screeching halt at end in the 19^th century with the advent of phylloxera, the most dreaded of all vine diseases.

The Renaissance of Languedoc

Throughout the late 19^th century and most of the early 20^th century, the Languedoc languished, becoming the planet’s greatest source of bulk wine, known unceremoniously as vin ordinaire, plonk, and worse. It was not until the 1970s that Languedoc began the long march back to glory. With no longer a demand at home or abroad for cheap, coarse wines, the emphasis in Languedoc shifted back to quality rather than quantity. Many of the region’s oldest vineyards were restored, premium varietals replanted, and vines began moving back to ancient hillside sites to produce less wine of greater quality. The results have initiated a veritable Renaissance in the Languedoc, especially in the favored appellations of Fitou, Corbières, Minervois, and Pic St. Loup where choice hillside vineyards have produced fine wine for millennia.

Some of Languedoc’s best and most consistent producers include Gérard Bertrand, Gourgazaud, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Mont Tauch, and Sainte Eulalie, the latter known for their exceptional red wines from Livinière, a sub-appellation within Minervois, which appears to be slated to become Languedoc’s first Grand Cru.

Carmenère, Chile’s emblematic red wine, could certainly lay claim to being the world’s greatest red wine value. Why? Of all the Bordeaux varietals and South American wines, Carmenère stands out to me as the most distinctive and enjoyable, especially in the first five years of life which is when the vast majority of all wines are consumed. And as an added bonus, well made Carmenère ages gracefully to perfection for up to a decade or more. Critics and major wine publications have sung the praises of Carmenère, especially from top producers such as Casa Silva, Carmen, Casas del Bosque, and Errazuriz, and every time I bring a fine Carmenère to a tasting or share a bottle with friends, Carmenère is a hit and those happy recipients inevitably add “This must be expensive,” before sheepishly inquiring as to the cost. When told no, most Carmenères are quite reasonable, they wonder why. That’s when I go to work.

When I ask why they have never tried Carmenère or don’t drink more of it, the usual retorts sound something like these: “I didn’t know what it was” or “I never had one before, so I was afraid to try it.” A few others add “It seemed too reasonably priced, so I didn’t think it would be very good.” Ignorance isn’t always bliss. When could any of us ever drink a label, a price tag, or anyone else’s palate and be truly satisfied?

Let’s talk Carmenère and dispel the mystery surrounding the grape. It is safe to say that Carmenère is close to being the missing link of Bordeaux varietals, and that link now thrives in Chile. Although still one of the six legal red Bordeaux grape varietals and in evidence at a few Bordeaux châteaux among a sea of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot (the other five varietals that comprise red Bordeaux), Carmenère has not figured prominently in Bordeaux since the advent of phylloxera in the 19^th century. Brought to Chile in the 19^th century before the dreaded vine disease, Carmenère was mistaken for a clone of Merlot until the 1980s, and perhaps this is the reason it languished for more than a century in relative obscurity, though it’s hard to believe that one of Bordeaux’s six legal red grape varietals could be misidentified for so long, but then the truth is nearly always stranger than fiction. So, what does Carmenère have going for it? Plenty! Let’s start with Carmenère’s deep purple color, followed by a hedonistic aroma: savory red and black fruit flavors, deft touches of bell pepper, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. But best of all, Carmenère’s tannins are smoother than those of Cabernet Sauvignon and its other Bordeaux compatriots. Most of all, people enjoy it, especially after it’s had a few minutes to breathe. One would be wise to never judge a Carmenère on first sip; any good Carmenère needs a few minutes of aeration to undergo metamorphosis in the glass. One doesn’t have to wait years to enjoy this varietal, but allow it a little time in the glass to collect itself, and enjoy!

Salud!
Don