In the News Archives - Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Burgundy: Where Dirt is Destiny

April 18, 2022 by Don Lahey

Burgundy is a wine as well as a place. In fact, it is many wines and many distinct locales, all of which were once part of the ancient duchy of Burgundy. Situated several hundred kilometers southwest of Paris, Burgundy is hallowed ground to serious lovers of the vine. From its golden hillsides, whose center slopes are so aptly named the Côte d’Or, flow France’s most expensive and profound wines. Names such as Romanée Conti, Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, and Le Montrachet, among others, have been delighting serious wine aficionados for centuries. Yet, there is much more to Burgundy and its wines than a few illustrious names. For starters, Burgundy is the ancestral of home of two of the world’s most revered grape varieties – Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

Clearly, Burgundy is much more than a single wine or one great vineyard: it is a special place, a land almost entirely devoted to wine in one fashion or another. However, what remains surprising to many wine drinkers is that Burgundy is both red and white wine, the best of which come exclusively from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, respectively. With a growing number of exceptions, the finest Burgundies emanate from the region’s hallowed core, the Côte d’Or, which begins on the fabled Côte de Nuits, just to the south of Dijon, and flows all the way south to Santenay at the tip of the Côte de Beaune. The Premier and Grand Cru wines from these illustrious hillsides are worth their weight in gold, but increasingly the wines from the gentle slopes outside the privileged climats are creating the most attention and providing great drinking pleasure, including those on the Côte Chalonnaise and in the Mâconnais south of the Côte d’Or – all Burgundy and increasingly worth their weight in gold. Salut!

Cahors, Malbec, and a Return to Glory

March 15, 2022 by Don Lahey

Cahors was once the world’s most sought after wine, and Malbec the source of Cahors’ rise to fame and legendary reputation. Malbec is a premier red grape variety indigenous to southwest France. Reputed to have originated in Cahors, Malbec has since Roman times played the starring role in the deeply colored wines from Cahors, a small wine region above the river Lot whose wine earned the name, the “Black Wine” of France, no doubt on account of the wine’s impenetrable color and robust flavor. Cahors and the mighty Malbec varietal graced the tables of medieval kings and queens and was found in palaces around the world. Until the phylloxera epidemic ravaged the vineyards of Cahors in the late 19^th century, as it did throughout Europe, Cahors was for centuries a wine of legend and lore.

Bordeaux also claims Malbec as an original son where it remains one of the original legal red wine grapes of red Bordeaux along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Merlot and Petit Verdot. In Bordeaux, Malbec is often referred to as Cot or Pressac. While Malbec rarely flies on its own any longer in Bordeaux with very few 100% varietal bottlings, Malbec still plays a supporting role in Bordeaux, where it adds color and body to many Bordeaux red wines.

In Cahors, Malbec still reigns supreme, but it is only since the last quarter of the 20^th century that wines of Cahors have begun to reclaim their former place among the world’s finest wines. By law Cahors must contain a minimum of 70% Malbec, though the finest versions are often 90%. Tannat and Merlot are the appellation’s other legal grape varieties. Much of Cahors’ resurgence is due the tremendous investment and revitalization of vineyards, which have once again climbed back up the steep terraces above the river Lot. Thanks to the luxury brand Cartier, the erudite Georges Vigouroux, and many others, Cahors is returning to its former glory. Although not as rustic nor deeply colored as in days of yore, contemporary Cahors retains great color and robust flavor plus the added finesse of the finest red Bordeaux. In the future, Cahors may again be more synonymous with Malbec than neighboring Bordeaux or Argentina, where the latter now cultivates 70% of the world’s Malbec. But there is no need to wait to enjoy the truly fine wines of Cahors. They are again here and now.

Bolgheri: Home to Italy’s Most Illustrious Wines

February 15, 2022 by Don Lahey

Bolgheri has emerged as Tuscany’s premier DOC, and its red wines known as Super Tuscans are universally lauded and ranked among the planet’s finest. Wines such as Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia and Ornellaia’s Bolgheri Superiore are world-renowned, consistently receive great critical acclaim, and fetch prices on par with the finest classified Bordeaux. And these highly lauded icons are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg as Bolgheri is a wealth of exceptional wines, many of which can still be purchased for less than a king’s ransom.

Located in southern Tuscany beside the cobalt blue Tyrrhenian Sea, Bolgheri has for centuries cultivated Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and other French varietals along with Sangiovese, Tuscany’s premier indigenous grape variety. Yet, on account of its reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon and other non-autochthonous grape varieties, Bolgheri only attained DOC status for red wine in 1994, making it one of Tuscany’s youngest appellations.

Red wine serves as Bolgheri’s ambassador to the world, accounting for much of the region’s international acclaim. Bolgheri DOC regulations stipulate that Bolgheri Rosso can only be made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah with at least 50% of the blend consisting of Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Small amounts of Petit Verdot, another Bordeaux varietal, may also find its way into some Bolgheri Rossos, but in reality, most of Bolgheri’s Super Tuscans rely heavily on Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot with increasingly less Sangiovese and Syrah appearing in the finest examples.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

January 15, 2022 by Don Lahey

Montepulciano is one of the world’s great wine towns. Even when legions of wine-thirsty tourists descend upon the Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, it manages to retain its charm and characteristic medieval feel. In fact, this bustling town is a strollers’ paradise, replete with flower bedecked alleyways and steep steps in place of streets. And thanks to a ban on vehicles in much of the old town, one comes to quickly understand how Montepulciano emerged a “Pearl of the 16^th Century.” Set on a steep hill between the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia, Montepulciano is the center of the thriving DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin) of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, one of the greatest and oldest names in Italian wine.

The “noble wine” of Montepulciano has enjoyed its renowned reputation ever since the year 790. Even in the early medieval period, the “Vino Nobile” of Montepulciano was highly sought after, even outside of Montepulciano and the surrounding area. In 1549, Sante Lancerio, maître de chaîne to Pope Paul III, called the noble wine of Montepulciano “Vino perfettissimo da Signori” or the Preferred Wine of the Nobility. It was, however, the 17^th century doctor and poet Francesco Redi, who established the reputation of the Nobile of Montepulciano as “The King of all Wine.” The name “Nobile” dates from the era when higher quality wines were exclusively reserved for noble families.

Today, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano remains a special wine. Vino Nobile’s primary grape variety is the local Prugnolo Gentile, a unique clone of Tuscan Sangiovese, which must comprise a minimum 70% of any wine that bears the title of Vino Nobile. Many point to Prugnolo Gentile as the determining factor in the quality quotient of Vino Nobile. And with the supreme polish and depth of flavor that one sees in the finest Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, it would be hard to refute the claim. Since 1980, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has enjoyed the distinction of DOCG status, one of the first wines in Italy to be so named.

In order to be called Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a wine must, also, be matured in wooden casks for at least two years, starting from the 1^st of January following the harvest. After maturing for three years, Vino Nobile is entitled to be called “Riserva.” Prugnolo Gentile must always be the primary grape variety, but other traditional Tuscan varieties such as Malvasia Nero, Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, and Mammolo are also permitted. Small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet are now legal in Vino Nobile as well.

Carmignano: The Smallest Jewel in the Tuscan Crown

May 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Carmignano is one of the oldest wine regions of Tuscany. The Etruscans and Romans tended vines in what is now Carmignano. Although this diminutive DOCG is lesser known today than its Tuscan siblings, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Chianti Classico, Carmignano has consistently fashioned distinctive red wines of exceptional quality from a mere 270 acres. Written records of Carmignano’s distinctive wines date back to the middle of the 14^th century, where documents as early as 1369 illustrate the importance of this small, but illustrious wine region. In fact, for centuries Carmignano was so highly regarded that written accounts attest to Carmignano selling for four times the cost of any other wine.

Throughout the centuries Carmignano has enjoyed a preferred status, becoming a favorite of dukes and popes. The Medicis introduced French varietals to Carmignano in the 1500s and in the early 1700s the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici established the area of Carmignano as a nursery for grape varieties, which included the planting of international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon that he had imported from France. Cosimo III also issued a decree controlling Carmignano’s production standards and sales, a precursor to today’s strict DOCG regulation. His decree is believed to be the first modern denomination of controlled origin for wine in the world. Moreover, the boundaries for Carmignano have remained the same to this day, making it also one of the smallest Italian DOCG areas.

Carmignano was awarded its own DOC in 1975, thanks to the efforts of Count Ugo Contini Bonacossi, and received its much coveted DOCG status in 1990. Given the region’s centuries old tradition of growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (centuries before the creation of Super Tuscan reds throughout the rest of Tuscany), Bordeaux varietals have long played an important role in the highly prized wines of Carmignano. Other permitted varietals include Sangiovese (which must constitute at least 50% of the blend), Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo, Merlot, Colorino, Syrah and two traditional Tuscan white varieties, Trebbiano and Malvasia. However, the zone’s white varietals rarely find their way any longer into Carmignano. Taste and see why Carmignano has been highly prized for centuries.

Syrah: The Unsung, Under Appreciated Red

March 25, 2021 by Don Lahey

Syrah, also known as Shiraz, is the most under-appreciated and unsung red grape variety in America, despite the varietal’s inherent quality, incredible value, and the availability of legions of great Syrah-based wines from around the world. This begs the question: Why is Syrah not more widely appreciated?

Syrah lives in the shadow of America’s current penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon, even though many Cabernets are grossly over-priced and underperforming. And of course, in recent years, there is sexy, hedonistic Pinot Noir to contend with, a wine that can be immediately gracious and charming. So where does that leave Syrah/Shiraz, a grape with two names and a proven track record that has been around a lot longer than most varietals, even though Syrah has never been better than it is today? It leaves Syrah the underdog to contend for a place at the table with the two other members of the varietal triumvirate. It also offers savvy consumers the opportunity to enjoy world class red wine for a lot less than a mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.

If doubt still remains as to Syrah’s preeminence, consider the greatest, most revered red wines of Australia, including the iconic Penfold’s Grange, stem from Syrah. And what about Hermitage and Côte Rôtie from France? They are all 100% Syrah with no shortage of greatness there! And let’s not forget the iconic Château Beaucastel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fame: its primary varietal is Syrah. Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, France, South Africa, and Washington State all fashion a bevy of beautiful Syrah-based wines, too, many from old vines some of which claim a century or more of age.

Although Syrah/Shiraz has traveled the world, France remains the spiritual home of Syrah. Chapoutier, Chevalier, Clape, Guigal, and Jaboulet are just a few of the many French producers of outstanding Syrah. Australia crafts a plethora of fabulous Shiraz wine, too, many at a fraction of the cost of France’s most expensive Syrahs. Tried and true Australian purveyors such as Chapel Hill, Nugan, and Tait make world-class Syrah at prices most of us can afford. Other New World producers put the quality in the bottle, too. California wineries Beckmen and Stolpman consistently turn out complex, age-worthy Syrahs at half of the price of Cabernet Sauvignons of equal quality. Although relative newcomers to fashioning superb Syrah, Chile’s Casas del Bosque and Casa Silva wineries craft excellent Syrahs as does South Africa’s Reyneke estate, among others. Why pay more for less? The wonderful world of Syrah awaits!

Wine Trends: What’s In, What’s Out, What Not to Miss in 2021

February 5, 2021 by Don Lahey

In 2021 in the time of COVID, when nothing seems normal and little makes sense, one thing is clear: Americans are drinking wine. And not just any wine. They are drinking good wine. Retail sales of wines costing $25.00 per bottle are booming. Sparkling wines, both domestic and imported, made by the Champagne Method or Méthode Traditionnelle continue their upward trajectory. Who would have thought? Is it the anticipation of a vaccine or simply the notion that between the disasters and catastrophes of the past year one must seize the moment and celebrate life? Could that be what’s driving sparkling wine sales? Or have we finally realized that sparkling can be enjoyed any time? Rosé sparkling wines are all the rage, too, and the sales of still rosé wines remain robust historically, though tariffs and a weak dollar are forcing consumers to consider the many excellent and more affordable alternatives to French and domestic rosés from lands down under, including Chile and South Africa. Red and white wines with a strong retail presence are doing remarkably well, too. So what’s down and out or not faring well?

Wines that are mainly sold on premise, especially very high dollar European and domestic whites and reds from grower producers have taken a hit, including Chardonnays, Cabernets, Burgundies, etc. Quality, value, and availability are what consumers are looking for. The silver lining for savvy consumers is the availability of many excellent wines, wines whose names may not be on the tip of everyone’s tongue or serve as their everyday go-to wine. So what’s not to miss in 2021?

Bordeaux continues to turn out excellent white and red wines in all price ranges from a run of fine vintages. The Médoc, Graves, and Saint Émilion, as well as many Petits Châteaux have produced some of their finest wines to date in the 2015-2019 vintages. Savvy consumers looking for exceptional quality and value also need look no further than Italy for a bevy of extraordinary reds from the excellent 2015-2018 vintages. Amarone, Barolo, Carmignano, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino, and the spate of Super Tuscans now available in America are simply delicious. Recent vintages in Italy have produced excellent white wines as well. Australia, Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay have all upped their games recently, too, with delicious Grenache, Syrah, Carmenère, Malbec, Tannat, and more. The same can be said for South Africa for state of the art Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet, Pinotage, and Syrah.

In short, the more consumers are willing to broaden their horizons, the greater the reward that awaits. Even in the time of COVID, the Golden Age of wine is here and now. Wine has never been better than it is today. With an open mindset and a willingness to break out of the same old, same old, wine lovers are sure to find an abundance of crowd pleasing wines that won’t break the bank. Enjoy!

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