In the News Archives - Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Wildfires Ravage California Wine Country

September 1, 2020 by Don Lahey

Unless you are one of the hundreds of thousands of people fleeing the flames throughout California wine country, you cannot imagine the intensity of these blazes and the destruction ignited by more than 20,000 dry lightning strikes. As of this writing, this latest round of seasonal California wildfires has claimed seven lives, destroyed 1,200 homes and businesses, burned more than 800,000 acres, and forced mandatory evacuations in the San Francisco Bay area, Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Solano counties just as the grape harvest began. The heavy smoke from these fires threatens to taint the grapes that remain on the vines, and it is already creating the planet’s worst air pollution throughout the American West.

Even more frightening is the added specter of Covid-19, which impedes firefighters, first responders, and rescue efforts. And with the need to wear masks and the necessity of social distancing to prevent the spread of the disease, the question arises: How do we support essential workers and house and support the thousands of people whose homes and businesses are under siege? In past years, many of the wineries themselves opened their facilities and fed the multitudes who lost homes and had nowhere else to go. In the midst of the Covid crisis, few wineries or public shelters have space to house more than a tiny number of those seeking safety from the fires, and many of the wineries and vineyards are themselves threatened and are closed.

Spawned by more than 11,000 lightning strikes, the L.N.U. Lightning Complex (the largest and most widespread complex of fires) continues to ravage Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Solano counties, the source of many of California’s iconic wines. Other areas throughout Central and Southern California have also been affected. It is one thing to be aware of a crisis, it is another to take action. What can you and I do to help? Plenty. Although few of us are equipped to fight fires or are too distant to offer shelter, we can support California growers and producers by making a concerted effort to buy and consume California wine, especially wines grown and produced by small family wineries who have the most to lose. And when California winemakers were asked how consumers and the general public could help, they responded by saying “Firefighters are truly on the front lines fighting these fires. They are risking their lives to save others’ lives and property. Helping injured firefighters and the families of those who have lost their lives would be the best way to honor these heroes.”

If you would like to help, please consider making a donation to the Wildland Firefighter Foundation, a non-profit that is active in all states, by going to www.wffoundation.org. The Wildland Firefighter Foundation has been assisting firefighters and their families since 1994 and has been especially supportive of California wildland firefighters and their families, including those who fought the deadly Camp fire that destroyed Paradise. Any support you can render will go a long way to helping those who help the rest of us stay safe.

Cabernet Franc

June 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

Cabernet Franc often lives in the shadow of its younger and more assertive sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon. Although reluctant to rely on gender stereotyping of grape varietals or their particular characteristics, a compelling case can be made for describing Cabernet Franc as the feminine side of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc, whose origin appears to be the Pyrenees Mountains in southwest France, is one of Bordeaux’s oldest and most prestigious grape varietals. It predates Cabernet Sauvignon by many centuries and recent DNA testing has determined that Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc constitute the actual forebears of Cabernet Sauvignon and not the other way around as once thought.

In its spiritual home, Cabernet Franc figures prominently in both Left and Right Bank Bordeaux wines, with the most esteemed Right Bank appellations of Pomerol and St. Émilion relying more heavily on Cabernet Franc’s propensity to ripen earlier than its more famous offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc also flourishes in France’s Loire Valley, most notably in the appellations of Bourgeuil and Chinon, where it produces elegant, sophisticated red wines. Add Cabernet Franc’s hauntingly beautiful fragrance, enticing berry, currant and leafy flavors, along with rounder, more accessible tannins than its progeny, Cabernet Sauvignon, and it is easy to see why Cabernet Franc is uniformly esteemed in France and increasingly sought after by New World wineries. The most notable Cabernet Francs outside of France emanate from Argentina, California, and Chile where they are bottled as premium varietals and play key supporting roles in Meritage selections

Meritage: California’s Best Blend

September 10, 2019 by Kristina Manning

Meritage is California’s answer to Bordeaux. It is also a term that has come in vogue to describe New World blends that are made from traditional red Bordeaux varietals. Therefore, a meritage wine is essentially a blend of three or more traditional red Bordeaux grapes with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc the most notable participants. Malbec and Petit Verdot are the other likely players and Carmenère a possibility but rarely a component. There are no legal or proscribed percentages for each grape variety in a meritage wine, so producers are permitted to vary how much of each varietal finds its way into the final offering, much as the great Bordeaux Châteaux vary their cépages or blends depending upon the estate’s desired style of wine and the vagaries of each particular vintage.

Nearly all meritage wines eschew the name of a single varietal on the label because varietal bottling requires that at least 75% of a single variety (in California and in most other states) be present in a blend to be labeled as a single varietal. The minimum requirement for varietal labeling in Europe and in most other New World producing wine countries is 80%. Because three or more grape varieties are included in the blend, meritage offerings are often more complex and nuanced than their single varietal counterparts. In addition, it is often the small percentages of other Bordeaux varietals in California’s greatest Cabernet Sauvignons that make producers’ varietal bottlings standout.

Some truly notable California meritage offerings include Pahlmeyer’s Proprietary Red, an iconic wine that ranks among the best California can offer, and Titus Andronicus, Napa Valley Red, a wonderfully decadent, seamless Bordeaux style red that merits serious consideration as the finest value in top-notch California meritage.

Salud!
Don

Summer is Coming Up Rosé

July 6, 2019 by Don Lahey

Rosé wines are hot, even more popular than ever before and not just in summer. That will come as no surprise to consummate wine drinkers, but what is surprising is the recent proliferation of varietals and styles of rosé that were unheard of just a few years ago. What started as a sea of rosé wines from France’s Provence and nearby Languedoc has turned into an international tsunami of exciting pink wines from all over the globe and from a host of grape varietals. No longer are Grenache, Syrah and other Rhône grape varieties the only games in town.

In addition to seeing the proliferation of rosé wines from an assortment of grape varieties, increasingly fine Provençal rosés proliferate across the board from top to bottom. Languedoc is offering many great value rosé wines, too, many with a bit more swagger than their Provençal neighbors. Château Sainte Eulalie’s 2018 Printemps d’Eulalie Minervois rosé is a splendid example of Languedoc’s full-bodied style of rosé. And from Provence, one can’t beat the 2018 Le Provençal Côtes de Provence rosé for value and flavor. For the ultimate in Provençal rosé, Château Margüi’s 2018 Côteaux Varois en Provence rosé from George Lucas’ Skywalker estate delivers all year round and ages beautifully, too.

Quality newcomers to the world of pink include Artesana’s 2017 Tannat rosé, which is made in Uruguay (yes, Uruguay, and it is first rate) from the grape that gave us the word tannin. Deep, full-bodied, and wonderful by itself, it also complements flavor-filled dishes, including Vietnamese and Thai specialties. South Africa’s 2018 Rustenberg Petit Verdot rosé adds a whole other dimension and style to today’s rosé scene, and it, too, makes a fine choice to serve with flavorful, spicy dishes.

Oregon and California Pinot Noir rosés are also first class, although most tend to be pricier than their international counterparts and available in limited quantities. Spain and Italy have also increased the quality and production of their pink wines with Garnacha (Grenache) and Sangiovese, respectively, leading the varietal charge in each of those countries. Last but not least, Bordeaux, the world’s largest fine wine producing region, has come awash with Cabernet and Merlot based rosés that are increasingly tasty and food friendly.

So the choice is ours! Let’s enjoy the fruits of summer now and all year round.

What to Look for in October

October 26, 2018 by Don Lahey

In October, The International Wine of the Month Club’s Premier Series will feature an exceptional red Bordeaux wine from the outstanding 2016 vintage, Château Tour de Gilet, and three other superb selections from around the world. A traditional blend of primarily Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the magnificent 2016 vintage, the 2016 Château Tour de Gilet truly shines. Bolder and richer in flavor than one might expect from a Petit Château, the 2016 Château Tour de Gilet offers up an inviting bouquet of blackcurrant, cranberry and forest floor. In the mouth, a delightful mélange of berry flavors (blackberry and currant), dark cherry and damsel plum make a delightful appearance on a wave of silky tannins. Nicely balanced and endowed with traditional Bordeaux character and style, one would be hard pressed to find a better, more affordable Petit Château than the 2016 Château Tour de Gilet.

Our next Premier Series feature is the 2014 Cambridge Cellars CCR Carneros Chardonnay. Since its inception, Cambridge Cellars has consistently over-delivered on quality, and this month’s feature is no exception. The 2014 Cambridge Cellars CCR Carneros Chardonnay offers a tantalizing bouquet of spring flowers and buttered brioche along with just the right touches of vanilla and caramelized oak. The wine’s aromatics flow through on the palate, too, offering a complex mélange of fruit, lemon curd, freshly baked croissants and toasted almonds. “Hedonism in a glass,” remarked several members of the tasting panel. Add a nice citrus twist, superb texture, and a gracefully long finish to this wine’s delightful repertoire and it is difficult to imagine a better Chardonnay from California or France for less than $50.00 than the 2014 Cambridge Cellars CCR Carneros Chardonnay.

Next in this month’s quartet is the 2008 Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva, a 10 year old Reserva from Spain. A blend of Garnacha (50%), Tempranillo (25%) and Cariñena (25%), the perfectly mature 2008 Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva offers layers of smooth, mouthwatering flavors. Lightly scented with the aromas of blackberry, plum, violet, finely tanned leather and unsmoked tobacco, this wine draws you in almost surreptitiously. In the mouth, the wine is smooth and expansive, offering well-integrated fruit, leather, cedar, and cigar box flavors born of a 12 month hiatus in oak. Reminiscent of mature Rioja Reserva, the 2008 Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva offers plenty of flavors before finishing with mouthwatering acidity from fine-grained tannins.

Completing this month’s Premier Series offerings is the delicious 2017 Estampa Fina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, a wine every bit as compelling as the estate’s Fina Reserva red wines. The 2017 Estampa Fina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc is an artful blend of predominantly Sauvignon Blanc with small amounts of Chardonnay and Viognier. The addition of Chardonnay adds texture and mouth feel, while Viognier augments the wine’s already attractive aroma: citrus scents mingle with herbal tones and freshly cut grass, offering a delightful perfume that goes far beyond what one expects from Sauvignon Blanc alone. In the mouth, the wine’s generous tropical fruit flavors and fresh acidity come to fore, providing both counterpoint and refreshment.

The International Wine of the Month Club’s Collectors Series is proud to offer three exceptional wines in October from opposite ends of the world, beginning with the stunning 2015 Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon from a winery that consistently garners 90+ points for its wines and continues to over-deliver with each successive vintage. The deeply colored 2015 Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon offers an impressive array of savory Cabernet aromas: a core of refined blackberry and cassis infused with hints of wild herbs and eucalyptus—not unlike many of Joe Heitz’s legendary Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons of yesteryear—seduces the nose and seeps deliciously into the marrow of this wine. Medium to full-bodied, the boldly flavored 2015 McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon possesses superb balance, polish, and texture, which allows it to drink beautifully now while remaining capable of further maturation and 10 or more years of pleasurable drinking.

Our next October Collectors Series offering, the 2015 Josef Chromy Tasmania Chardonnay, is one of the finest Chardonnays made south of the equator. It is rare that any New World Chardonnay tastes like Puligny-Montrachet or can stand qualitatively with Puligny-Montrachet, one of France’s greatest white wines from Burgundy, but Josef Chromy’s 2015 Josef Chromy Tasmania Chardonnay does resemble Premier Cru white Burgundy and, yes, it does taste a lot like Puligny-Montrachet. The 2015 Josef Chromy offers up a brilliant robe, savory scents and flavors of stone fruits, citrus, crisp mountain apples, freshly baked bread, and hints of exotic spices refined by a light patina of vanilla from the finest of oak barrels. Yet the most endearing aspects of this wine may be its lithe and engaging flavors and superb texture, which come wrapped in one seamless and supremely elegant package. Like fine Puligny-Montrachet, the 2015 Josef Chromy Chardonnay relies on elegance and finesse more than power to charm its adherents. Josef Chromy’s 2015 Chardonnay is already quite exceptional now, but if past vintages and experience with Chromy’s Chardonnays are any indication, the 2015 Josef Chromy Chardonnay will continue to improve in bottle for at least several more years.

Completing this month’s Collectors Series is the 2015 Château Paveil de Luze Margaux from the outstanding 2015 Bordeaux vintage. This wine reflects the renovation and attention afforded this historic property by renowned wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt and the late Frédéric de Luze. The 2015 Château Paveil de Luze is not only a sleeper of the great 2015 Bordeaux vintage, it is potentially the finest wine produced at this property in more than half a century (91 Points – Wine Enthusiast). The 2015 Château Paveil de Luze is a deeply colored wine with impressive fruit, texture, and body. Ripe and generous, it displays plenty of blackberry and plum flavors infused with tobacco and Margaux’s pleasant distinctive earthiness. Backed by ripe, substantial tannins, the 2015 Château Paveil de Luze is a wine to lay down in classic Margaux fashion as such patience yields huge dividends. Enjoy!

America’s Love Affair with Pinot Noir

September 24, 2018 by Don Lahey

America is in love with Pinot Noir, but it wasn’t exactly love at first sight. A generation ago, Pinot Noir was the proverbial step child of American grape growers, an afterthought and an anomaly at best. Only a few stalwart visionaries like André Tchelistcheff of BV vineyards dared to plant France’s most coveted, yet often mercurial, grape variety in California. And frankly, those early attempts yielded less than exciting results.

Today, Pinot Noir’s fortunes have changed. Pinot Noir is all the rage, not only in America but around the world where it stands at the pinnacle of the world’s grape varieties, but it is not because the planet’s other favored varietals (Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo to name a few) are incapable of greatness; rather Pinot Noir is the rare grape variety that is capable of being transformed annually into the planet’s most complex red wines as well as the most exquisite rosé, still, and sparkling wines.

Although Pinot Noir was born in Burgundy a millennium before Cabernet Sauvignon made its appearance in Bordeaux, it now thrives in Champagne, California, Oregon, and in rare hallowed parcels across the planet in addition to its native Burgundy. However, the difficult to grow and often unforgiving Pinot Noir varietal demands attention, a cool, temperate climate, and a deft hand in the cellar. When all stars align, Pinot Noir yields light to full-bodied wines of stunning aromatics, depth, and length of flavor. Moreover, good Pinot Noir can age gracefully for as long as any wine when stored properly. Not surprisingly, it also yields the world’s most expensive wine on average, which makes it all the more attractive to collectors and a growing legion of admirers.

Salud!
Don

Summer’s Best Wines: Beyond Chardonnay

June 18, 2018 by Don Lahey

Summer’s best wines are typically the ones in my glass, and yours, too, I hope. That’s at least the way it should be, but how to find the best summertime wines is a matter of preference and each wine lover’s ultimate quest for summer’s ideal wine.

Chardonnay comes to many people’s minds by default as Chardonnay is the most cultivated white grape variety worldwide, but there are so many more great summertime wines from which to choose. Sauvignon Blanc with its crisp, herbal edge and refreshing acidity gets two thumbs up. And why not consider Sauvignon Gris, the darker skinned, rounder, more aromatic relative of Sauvignon Blanc? Chile fashions exciting Sauvignon Gris, with Casa Silva and Cousino Macul two of the finest producers of the varietal.

Bordeaux offers a dizzying array of pleasurable summertime drinking, too, with white wines from 100% Sauvignon Blanc to blends containing Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. Chenin Blanc also deserves serious consideration as a summertime favorite. Vouvray Sec, the quintessential dry Chenin Blanc, from France’s Loire Valley, makes a wonderful warm weather companion. Racauderie Gautier and Vigneau-Chevreau are two reliable high quality Vouvray producers, though South Africa also fashions first rate Chenin Blanc. The newly released Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc strikes me as an especially fine, affordable version of South Africa’s premier white grape.

Torrontes, Argentina’s flagship white varietal, offers more exciting summer drinking, especially if one enjoys pronounced aromatics and a touch of exotica in a wine. Areyna from the mountains of Argentina crafts an aromatic, well-balanced Torrontes that can be enjoined with or without food.

Some other summertime favorites include beautiful crisp Italian white wines such as Gavi and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Massone’s San Cristoforo Gavi and Le Calcinaie’s Vernaccia di San Gimignano constitute perennial favorites because of their fresh natural flavors, which quench the thirst, please the palate, and refresh the soul. And what would summer be like without an invigorating glass of Provençal rosé? Not a very good summer at all. I think I will pour myself a glass of Domaine Blaïs Côtes de Provence Rosé and think about my next favorite best summer wine, the one in my glass. Enjoy!

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