Notes from the Panel Archives - Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Cabernet Sauvignon: The King of Wines

September 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely cultivated wine grape on the planet. While Cabernet Sauvignon’s preeminence underscores consumers insatiable thirst for the grape and the dark red wine that it yields, Cabernet Sauvignon is a relative newcomer among the world’s wine grape varieties and its immense popularity is of recent origin. Although Cabernet Sauvignon was thought to be an ancient varietal, DNA studies conducted in the 1990s revealed that Cabernet Sauvignon is not nearly as old as was once thought. In fact, it has only been around since the 17^th century. Moreover, what is even more startling is that Cabernet Sauvignon is actually the offspring of Cabernet Franc (a red variety) and Sauvignon Blanc (a white variety).

The origin of Cabernet Sauvignon is now widely acknowledged to be southwest France in the environs of Bordeaux, where it holds court with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and in rare instances Carmenère. The combination of any three or more of these varieties is what is known in Europe as the Bordeaux Blend or in California and elsewhere as a Meritage selection. Some researchers now suggest that northern Spain, just south of the Pyrenees, may one day also lay a legitimate claim as to an original site of the planet’s most important red grape variety. However, Bordeaux rightly claims to be the disseminator of this noble red grape because from Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon has traveled the world far and wide.

In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon is the heart and soul of the finest Médoc wines and a leading player in nearly all of the finest red wines of Graves. Châteaux Haut-Brion, Margaux, Latour, and Lafite are all Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. However, even in Bordeaux appellations where Cabernet is King, it is usually blended with Merlot and/or other traditional Bordeaux varietals. By nature, Cabernet Sauvignon is a thick skinned grape that requires a longer maturation than most red grape varieties, which makes blending it a natural choice in winemaking regions such as Bordeaux where climate conditions are variable.

In general, Cabernet Sauvignon thrives under warm, even hot, semi arid conditions, which is one reason why this noble variety has been extensively and successfully cultivated in Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, South Africa, Spain and elsewhere. In particular, Cabernet Sauvignon enjoys a privileged place in American viticulture, and it is unquestionably California’s most prestigious red varietal, both in consummate quality as well as price. California’s Napa Valley and surrounding counties are generally acknowledged to produce the New World’s finest varietal Cabernet Sauvignons. However, Argentina, Australia, Chile, Italy, South Africa, and Spain, among others, also fashion world-class Cabernet Sauvignon, and often their wines offer greater quality and value.

In flavor profile, Cabernet Sauvignon can vary considerably, depending upon climate and terroir. However, blackberry and blackcurrant (often referred to as cassis) flavors are most often associated with this premium variety. Earthy and herbaceous aromas, cedar, eucalyptus, graphite, and tobacco are also common. Moreover, of all the world’s red grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon has the greatest propensity for successful ageing. Cabernet Sauvignon also contains high amounts of antioxidants and resveratrol, which make its wines some of the most healthful on the planet as well as the most widely enjoyed.

Dão: The Tuscany of Portugal

August 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Located in the north-central part of Portugal, Dão is surrounded on all sides by mountains which shelter this ancient viticultural region from severe weather and provide ideal conditions for the cultivation of Portugal’s excellent, though mostly unsung, indigenous grape varietals. The region’s high altitude vineyards grow on granite and schist soils up to nearly 3,500 feet. Dão’s high altitude makes for cool nights, slow ripening, and the propensity to produce highly aromatic wines of superior elegance and longevity, attributes which has earned Dão the moniker The Tuscany of Portugal.

Dão produces both red and white wines. The region’s signature white grape is Encruzado, a grape renowned for producing tasty white wines in a myriad of styles, ranging from fresh, light, and supremely elegant white wines to crunchy, complex, barrel-aged versions. Although it is increasingly bottled on its own as a varietal, Encruzado still finds its way into traditional blends with Malvasia Fina, Bical, Cercial, Rabo de Ovela, Verdelho, or other indigenous Portuguese varietals. The region’s finest red grape variety is Touriga Nacional, which stars as the most important grape variety in Port, the Douro, and in the finest wines of Dão. Tinta Roriz (also known as Aragonez or Tempranillo), Jaen, Baga, Bastardo and Tinta Pinheira also figure prominently in the production of red Dão, which most often is a blend of grapes.

Traditionally, Dão was known for elegant medium-bodied red wines, but today Dão is proving to be equally adept at fashioning easy-to-drink, everyday reds as well as deep, sophisticated, age-worthy red wines. Fresh white wines of considerable distinction also emanate from Dão. Now is the time to imbibe in the fine wines of Dão from such excellent producers of both red and white Dão as Taboadella, Quinta dos Roques, and Luis Patos, among others.

Portugal: A Treasure Trove of Excellent and Affordable Wines

July 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

portuguese vineyard — CREDIT: MAURICIO ABREU/GETTY IMAGES via www.travelandleisure.com

The quality of the finest Portuguese wines has never been in doubt. For centuries the fortified wines of Portugal, most notably Port and Madeira, have been duly lauded for their quality as well as their individuality. And even today, few would argue that Vintage Port and the finest Madeira do not deserve their present reputations as two of the world’s greatest and longest lived wines. But there has always been much more to Portuguese wine than Portugal’s two iconic fortified wines or the oceans of pleasant but otherwise innocuous rosé offerings (remember Lancers and Mateus) that flooded the American market in the early 1970s. So why have we not seen more of Portugal’s excellent wines?

Sadly, Portugal like its Iberian neighbor Spain suffered political and economic instability throughout much of the 20^th century and languished behind other top wine producing nations in marketing their best wines and in improving the quality of its wines. In addition, Portuguese producers were slow to adjust to market tastes. Many of Portugal’s traditional wines were robust rustic reds that required considerable time in bottle to attract the attention of international consumers who were growing increasingly accustomed to more immediate gratification. Few Americans in particular understood the need to cellar the splendid red Garrafeira (Special Reserve) offerings from Dão and elsewhere in order to reap gustatory rewards.

However, what most delayed the appreciation of Portugal’s exceptional red wines were government regulations that called for the mandatory use of co-operatives in Dão, Portugal’s leading and most recognized appellation for still red wines. The co-operatives had the exclusive right to the grapes grown in the region and a monopoly on making the wine sold to private merchants. Although the intent of the regulations was to create a national identity for Dão and promote its quality, the effects were adverse due to a lack of competition. What resulted were many inferior, sometimes dirty wines that hardly did justice to the revered name of Dão. Fortunately for Dão and Portuguese wine in general, Portugal’s application to the European Union in 1979 prompted an end in the 1980s to such regulations and monopolistic practices. Once again quality was allowed to come to fore.

Moreover, Dão is hardly the only name to look for in Portuguese red wine. The region around Lisbon and the sprawling Alentejo also fashion excellent red and white wines. In addition to producing a treasure trove of fine wines from the Douro to the Algarve, Portugal has developed a penchant for fashioning Vinho Verde, a light, highly quaffable white wine that can be enjoyed with abandon to accompany Portugal’s splendid seafood. It’s time to rediscover and explore the treasure trove of wines that sunny Portugal has to offer. Enjoy!

Great Summer Wines to Slake the Thirst and Tantalize the Tongue

June 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

As the days warm and the blush of spring turns into the balmy days of summer, one looks for wines that will enliven the senses and quench the thirst. In this quest, one need not sacrifice flavor nor settle for insipid swill. Many excellent and affordable white and rosé wines abound to slake the thirst and tantalize the tongue.

Rosé continues to enjoy the favor of a growing legion of American wine drinkers, and that appetite shows no signs of abating. Although many of the rosé wines in the market are commercial, mass produced plonk that may temporarily quench the thirst but leave the palate wanting, it is also true that a growing number of artisan rosés from a myriad of grape varieties abound. Moreover, no longer are Grenache-based rosés from France the only game in town; numerous grape varieties and wine regions around the world have joined the rosé tidal wave and many of these newcomers are exceptional and well worth seeking out. One such rosé newbie is the superbly crafted 2020 Artesana Tannat Rosé from Uruguay. Pinot Noir rosés are increasingly in demand, too, as are superbly made sparkling wines in the form of hand-crafted rosés from Champagne, Alsace, Burgundy, and beyond. In this category, Camille Braun’s NV Crémant d’Alsace Rosé stands out for its exceptional quality and value. For a traditional still rosé, one cannot beat Domaine Houchart’s 2020 Côtes de Provence Rosé, a perennial overachiever.

A plethora of thirst quenching, palate pleasing white wines also await the savvy consumer this year from an assortment of grape varieties. Italy excels in this area with varieties such as Arneis, Garganega, Gavi, and Vermentino, which not only slake the thirst, they offer energy, flavor, and minerality, often with pinpoint precision. Malabaila in northern Italy’s Roero DOCG fashions several exciting Arneis wines with Aia Vecchia and Surrau being two consistent producers of top notch Vermentino at prices that won’t break the bank. The latter’s wines hail from the island of Sardinia and the famous Gallura DOCG. For Gavi, Stefano Massone’s San Cristoforo Gavi di Gavi is hard to beat as are all of Massone’s Gavis. And one should not overlook the finest estate bottled Soaves, made exclusively from Garganega. Inama remains a star among a growing number of authentic Soave producers.

Although Italy offers a cornucopia of interesting, high quality white wines, it is not alone. California and Oregon have toned down the oak and now fashion a bevy of un-oaked Chardonnays, including the sprightly 2020 Donati Sisters Forever Un-Oaked Chardonnay. Meanwhile, France continues to shine with a growing array of exceptional white wines. Traditional un-oaked Chardonnays from Chablis and the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy are better than ever. Sauvignon Blanc based wines from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon, and select sites along the Loire River also provide plenty of crisp, flavorful wines from a multitude of purveyors. Increasingly, Provence and the southern Rhône have joined the party, making delightful white wines with which to while away balmy summer days. The best of these are crafted dry from Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino), and of course Grenache, the southern Rhône’s ubiquitous varietal. Domaine Houchart fashions an outstanding crowd pleasing Côtes de Provence Blanc from traditional Provençal grape varieties. Enjoy!

Carmignano: The Smallest Jewel in the Tuscan Crown

May 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Carmignano is one of the oldest wine regions of Tuscany. The Etruscans and Romans tended vines in what is now Carmignano. Although this diminutive DOCG is lesser known today than its Tuscan siblings, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Chianti Classico, Carmignano has consistently fashioned distinctive red wines of exceptional quality from a mere 270 acres. Written records of Carmignano’s distinctive wines date back to the middle of the 14^th century, where documents as early as 1369 illustrate the importance of this small, but illustrious wine region. In fact, for centuries Carmignano was so highly regarded that written accounts attest to Carmignano selling for four times the cost of any other wine.

Throughout the centuries Carmignano has enjoyed a preferred status, becoming a favorite of dukes and popes. The Medicis introduced French varietals to Carmignano in the 1500s and in the early 1700s the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici established the area of Carmignano as a nursery for grape varieties, which included the planting of international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon that he had imported from France. Cosimo III also issued a decree controlling Carmignano’s production standards and sales, a precursor to today’s strict DOCG regulation. His decree is believed to be the first modern denomination of controlled origin for wine in the world. Moreover, the boundaries for Carmignano have remained the same to this day, making it also one of the smallest Italian DOCG areas.

Carmignano was awarded its own DOC in 1975, thanks to the efforts of Count Ugo Contini Bonacossi, and received its much coveted DOCG status in 1990. Given the region’s centuries old tradition of growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (centuries before the creation of Super Tuscan reds throughout the rest of Tuscany), Bordeaux varietals have long played an important role in the highly prized wines of Carmignano. Other permitted varietals include Sangiovese (which must constitute at least 50% of the blend), Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo, Merlot, Colorino, Syrah and two traditional Tuscan white varieties, Trebbiano and Malvasia. However, the zone’s white varietals rarely find their way any longer into Carmignano. Taste and see why Carmignano has been highly prized for centuries.

Wine Trends: What’s In, What’s Out, What Not to Miss in 2021

February 5, 2021 by Don Lahey

In 2021 in the time of COVID, when nothing seems normal and little makes sense, one thing is clear: Americans are drinking wine. And not just any wine. They are drinking good wine. Retail sales of wines costing $25.00 per bottle are booming. Sparkling wines, both domestic and imported, made by the Champagne Method or Méthode Traditionnelle continue their upward trajectory. Who would have thought? Is it the anticipation of a vaccine or simply the notion that between the disasters and catastrophes of the past year one must seize the moment and celebrate life? Could that be what’s driving sparkling wine sales? Or have we finally realized that sparkling can be enjoyed any time? Rosé sparkling wines are all the rage, too, and the sales of still rosé wines remain robust historically, though tariffs and a weak dollar are forcing consumers to consider the many excellent and more affordable alternatives to French and domestic rosés from lands down under, including Chile and South Africa. Red and white wines with a strong retail presence are doing remarkably well, too. So what’s down and out or not faring well?

Wines that are mainly sold on premise, especially very high dollar European and domestic whites and reds from grower producers have taken a hit, including Chardonnays, Cabernets, Burgundies, etc. Quality, value, and availability are what consumers are looking for. The silver lining for savvy consumers is the availability of many excellent wines, wines whose names may not be on the tip of everyone’s tongue or serve as their everyday go-to wine. So what’s not to miss in 2021?

Bordeaux continues to turn out excellent white and red wines in all price ranges from a run of fine vintages. The Médoc, Graves, and Saint Émilion, as well as many Petits Châteaux have produced some of their finest wines to date in the 2015-2019 vintages. Savvy consumers looking for exceptional quality and value also need look no further than Italy for a bevy of extraordinary reds from the excellent 2015-2018 vintages. Amarone, Barolo, Carmignano, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino, and the spate of Super Tuscans now available in America are simply delicious. Recent vintages in Italy have produced excellent white wines as well. Australia, Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay have all upped their games recently, too, with delicious Grenache, Syrah, Carmenère, Malbec, Tannat, and more. The same can be said for South Africa for state of the art Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet, Pinotage, and Syrah.

In short, the more consumers are willing to broaden their horizons, the greater the reward that awaits. Even in the time of COVID, the Golden Age of wine is here and now. Wine has never been better than it is today. With an open mindset and a willingness to break out of the same old, same old, wine lovers are sure to find an abundance of crowd pleasing wines that won’t break the bank. Enjoy!

Champagne: The Perfect Wine Any Time

January 22, 2021 by Don Lahey

Most Americans relegate Champagne and other fine sparkling wines to special occasions: Thanksgiving dinner, Christmas, weddings, late night holiday parties, New Year’s Eve celebrations, etc. Frankly, Champagne deserves better. Here’s why.

Champagne, the original and finest sparkling wine that hails from the ancient province of Champagne, enjoys a reputation as the “Belle of the Ball,” the perfect aperitif, a wine of conviviality and good cheer, but there is more to Champagne than frivolity. Champagne works its magic day and night all year round. It also pairs beautifully with a host of foods, which has earned it a reputation as a wine for all seasons and occasions. Long ago European wine drinkers discovered the many pleasures of Champagne and consume far more Champagne than Americans, both with and without a meal. So why not discover the pleasure of Champagne by pouring a glass on a cold, rainy day as well as a warm, sunny day, or serve it at a mid-week meal as well as at a party? Isn’t every day meant to be celebrated in some way?

Why limit the pleasure of good bubbly to a few occasions or just one time of year? Even better, prepare a mid-week meal around a good bottle of Champagne and see why French and Italians consume so much more of this magical wine than Americans. Champagne makes glad the heart as it cleanses the palate and enlivens the soul. For these reasons and more I enjoy Champagne at all times of the year and twice as often during the holidays. I especially enjoy it as an aperitif during a fun-filled evening with friends in the company of tasty morsels. So, what are you waiting for? Make mine Brut Champagne, and make today special.

Don

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