Past Newsletters - September 2009
Premier Series |
|
Featured Wineries & Wines |
Membership Type |
| Santa Monica Tierra de Sol Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 – Chile | 1 Red 1 White; 2 Reds |
| Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008 – U.S.A | 1 Red 1 White; 2 Whites |
| Domaine du Grand Chemin Vin de Pays Duché d'Uzès 2008 – France | 2 Reds |
| Flying Fish Washington State Riesling 2008 – U.S.A. | 2 Whites |
Master Series |
|
Featured Wineries & Wines |
Membership Type |
| Picket Fence Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2006 – U.S.A. | 1 Red 1 White; 2 Reds |
| Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008 – U.S.A | 1 Red 1 White |
| Santa Monica Tierra de Sol Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 – Chile | 2 Reds |
Collector Series |
|
Featured Wineries & Wines |
Membership Type |
| Picket Fence Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2006 – U.S.A. | 1 Red 1 White; 2 Reds |
| Hans Marlborough Viognier 2007 – New Zealand | 1 Red 1 White |
| Zaccagnini Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC 2007 – Italy | 2 Reds |
Santa Monica Tierra de Sol Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 – Chile
Founded in 1976 by Emilio de Solminihac, Santa Monica is one of the more contemporary wineries in Chile. Yet, this superb property is truly an amalgam of Old World charm and modern technology. Located in the beautiful Rapel Valley, this historical 19th century property includes a beautiful old hacienda that dates from Chile’s colonial past, yet it is one of the tidiest and most up to date wineries in all Chile.
Emilio de Solminihac, more affectionately known as Don Emilio to a burgeoning legion of young Chilean winemakers, is the guardian of traditional winemaking in Chile and one of South America’s finest winemakers. He is also an affable gentleman who seems cut from a bygone age. Hailing from a wine making family, Don Emilio received his first training in wine as a young man while working in his grandfather’s vineyard and winery. Later he would graduate from the Universidad de Chile with a degree in agricultural engineering, and subsequently depart for France, where he would study at the Université de Bordeaux under the legendary Emile Peynaud – then France’s most renowned oenologist. While attending the Université de Bordeaux, Emilio earned that venerable institution’s esteemed degree in oenology, the first Chilean to do so. Today, Emilio de Solminihac is revered as much for his legacy of fine, age worthy wines as he is for his numerous oenological innovations – many of which have helped to transform the Rapel Valley into the Napa Valley of Chile.
In the 1970’s Don Emilio returned to Chile. He established an oenological laboratory in Rancagua and began consulting for many local Rapel Valley vineyards and wineries, an experience that brought him an intimate knowledge of the region’s terroir. In the meantime, the young Emilio also began teaching oenology and vinification at the Universidad de Chile and the Universidad Catolica de Chile, where he earned a reputation for his unabashed dedication to the production of clean, complex, age worthy wines in the Bordeaux tradition – a devotion he still pursues.
Chile in the 1970’s was a time of great economic uncertainty. Nevertheless, in 1976, when other growers were continuing to pull up vines because they were barely able to give away their wares, let alone make a living by producing wine, Don Emilio made a fateful decision: he purchased the old Vina Purisma estate outside of Rancagua. Originally planted in 1930, this established 230- acre Rapel property contained many splendid old vines whose yields were meager but whose quality was high. Don Emilio re-named the estate Santa Monica in honor of his wife Monica Fonseca and began with her their family winery. What many considered madness three decades ago has now become a dream come true.
Today, Santa Monica reigns as an oasis of calm and simple elegance. Beyond its gates lay long rows of well-tended vines that doze between the towering Andes and the coastal mountain ranges. From these neat rows of vines that hold just about every grape imaginable, Don Emilio fashions a bevy of delicious wines. However, the highly acclaimed Private Reserve Tierra de Sol and Gran Reserva offerings of Cabernet Sauvignon constitute the signature wines at Santa Monica. In them, one can taste and see Don Emilio’s passion for making traditional Bordeaux style offerings, with a personal touch. These are complex, age worthy wines that are as endearing as they are enduring.
Tasting Notes: The 1997 Santa Monica Private Reserve Tierra de Sol Cabernet Sauvignon is the progeny of one of Chile’s finest vintages. It is also the personal favorite of Don Emilio, and we can see why. We have tasted this Cabernet many times in the last five years and it always amazes us how charming and youthful it remains. Since its inception it has been stored in the cool, subterranean cellars at Santa Monica, and it remains deep in color and imbued with a stylish bouquet that is, perhaps, best described as an infusion of fresh berries, cassis, dark chocolate, and the classic cigar box scent of cedar. The 1997 Tierra de Sol Cabernet Sauvignon recalls all that is beguiling and hauntingly beautiful about mature Bordeaux, and great Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, too. Moreover, in the tender 1997 Private Reserve Tierra de Sol, one encounters a concentrated core of blackberry fruit, cassis, and plum, which deftly overlay hints of chocolate and roasted coffee. For optimum enjoyment, allow this medium-bodied, classically wrought claret to breathe at least a few minutes or more before consuming so it can envelop your palate and entwine itself in your gustatory soul. And like all fine Cabernet wines, we strongly suggest that the 1997 Santa Monica Private Reserve Tierra de Sol Cabernet Sauvignon be drunk at no more than 66° F. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Although quite easy and enjoyable to drink on its own, the 1997 Santa Monica Private Reserve Tierra de Sol Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent food wine. In fact, it seems to us to be the quintessential dinner party wine. And best of all, one need not have a flair for haute cuisine to see this wine shine. A butter and herb roasted chicken, a tender veal chop, or grilled thinly sliced beef tenderloin is all this beautifully aged wine needs to elevate a meal to a feast. For the gourmet or more adventuresome eater, we suggest a grilled loin of lamb with herbed and chèvre stuffed peaches and either a creamy rich risotto or mashed garlic and rosemary infused potatoes. Yum! Most meat ragouts and well prepared stews will complement the 1997 Santa Monica Tierra de Sol Cabernet Sauvignon as well.
For the Love of Cheese: Nothing can quite match the pleasure of completing a good meal or successful dinner party with great cheese and a glass of fine mature Cabernet Sauvignon like the 1997 Santa Monica Private Reserve Tierra de Sol Cabernet Sauvignon. To accompany Santa Monica’s lovely Tierra de Sol Cabernet we suggest soft or semi hard cheeses like Vermont’s Grafton Cheddar, Great Britain’s Aged Chesire or Wensleydale, or even a French Comte cheese. These and a whole host of other international gourmet cheeses await you at www.cheesemonthclub.com, so give us a click.
Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008 – U.S.A
Since 1927, there have been two constants on the Dry Creek Valley Pedroncelli estate in Sonoma County: family and wine. Started by Italian immigrant John Pedroncelli, Sr., the estate vineyards are located just 25 miles from the Pacific where the grapes from this pre- Prohibition property produce full fruit flavors thanks to the valley’s warm days and cool nights.
John, Sr.’s son and namesake, John, grew up on the property and has been principal winemaker at Pedroncelli since 1948. John’s brother Jim was actually born in the winery’s offices, which doubled in those days as the Pedroncelli family home. Jim has overseen marketing and sales at the winery since 1957. Jim and John’s children and children-in-law work in various capacities at the winery, and the family happily watches a fourth generation buzz about the property. In short, Pedroncelli remains an authentic family-owned and run winery. Rare as it may be, this is one California family who has not yet traded in its name or its soul to a corporate conglomerate.
Obviously stability and tradition play important roles for the Pedroncelli family as they collectively pursue a shared passion for producing quality wines. Yet, Pedroncelli’s vineyards have only gently expanded to 105 acres from the original 90 acres, and the brothers continue to seek innovative means of improving production and quality, without rapid expansion or even the thought of compromising their family tradition. Highlighting specific vineyards with a Vineyard Selection Series provides one example of the family’s commitment to specials terroirs and overall quality.
Pedroncelli wines are expertly made and known for consistent quality, regardless of the vagaries of vintage: rich, yet subtle fruit flavors; layered balance; and readiness to drink upon release are constant calling cards at Pedroncelli. Above enjoying the quality of their wines, however, partaking in a glass of Pedroncelli is like becoming a member of the family and sharing in their love of wine. Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel are just a few of the Pedroncelli family’s finest offerings.
Tasting Notes: The 2008 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is bright and crisp and as fresh as the morning sun. It also carries a subtle, refreshing minerality that speaks favorably of the East Side Vineyards’ terroirs. Light floral and citrus aromas perform a fine duet as they waft from this dazzling, straw colored wine. Embracing and downright huggable, the fruit of this bracing Sauvignon Blanc mingles deliciously around the palate. Citrus notes reminiscent of pink grapefruit meld with the scent and savor of ripe figs, melon, and freshly picked herbs. Combined with balanced acidity and just the perfect touch of minerality, this Sauvignon Blanc fills the mouth and exits gracefully with a distinctive refreshing quality. We suggest serving the 2008 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc well chilled (35º-40º F), and then allowing it to warm slightly in the glass.
Accompaniments: We suggest you serve the 2008 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc alone or pair it with a variety of appetizers or first course selections. Sushi and crudités, accompanied by a light dip, make excellent opening acts with which to pair this wine. Curry, garlic, cucumber, and hummus flavors all work well with this Sauvignon Blanc, too, and lend themselves to various vegetable dips. Grilled tilapia, served with a fresh cucumber sauce or vegetable relish; hearty salads; grilled chicken breasts; and even bowtie pasta in an herb infused cream sauce served as a first course or as a light entrée constitute other favorite pairings with Pedroncelli’s East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and point to the versatility and food-friendly quality of this wine. And then of course, there is always that aperitif before dinner when a good glass of Sauvignon Blanc provides a respite from the weather stained cares of life. Enjoy!
Domaine du Grand Chemin Vin de Pays Duché d'Uzès 2008 – France
Domaine du Grand Chemin is located on the foothills of the Cevennes, one of the prettiest and most historic areas of Languedoc Roussillon. Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the green valleys of neighboring Auvergne, the Cevennes is blessed with all the charms of Southern France, including an abundance of sunshine, a multitude of microclimates, and soils favorable to the cultivation of the vine.
For more than 300 years the Floutier family has tended vines at Domaine du Grand Chemin and produced by all accounts the finest wines of Duché d'Uzès. Today, the estate claims 60 hectares (132 acres) of vines under cultivation and is expertly run by Jean Marc Floutier and his son Emmanuel. With the expert guidance of this father and son team, Domaine du Grand Chemin fashions upwards of a dozen different wines from traditional Languedoc vines as well as several Bordeaux varietals. Nonetheless, the estate’s flagship offering remains the traditional, consistently excellent Duché d'Uzès, an artful blend of Syrah and Grenache that is as easy to drink in its youth as it is when aged to perfection in the bottle.
Tasting Notes: One taste of the 2008 Domaine du Grand Chemin Duché d'Uzès is all that is needed to invoke vivid images of Southern France, with its blue, wind-swept skies and scintillating countryside. In fact, this charming Grenache/Syrah blend reminds us of all that is inherently beautiful and enduring about rural France. It recalls the best of Provence and the undulating Midi – a land of scented hillsides, delectable meals, and delicious, quaffable country wines that go down ohhh so easily. Scents of ripe berries, black fruits, and white pepper meld with subtle touches of herbs and spice to tantalize the nose. On the palate the 2008 Domaine du Grand Chemin is fresh and easy, as it radiates warmth and good cheer without a tannic wallop. It provides ideal drinking now in its youth, but our experience with this wine tells us it will continue to improve in bottle for at least another year or two; so, as you like it. For optimal enjoyment, we suggest serving the 2008 Domaine du Grand Chemin between 60º- 66 º F.
Accompaniments: The country wines of France provide the perfect companions to the healthy, hearty country fare of rural France, and to a good deal of traditional American food favorites as well. And as the 2008 Domaine du Grand Chemin is the quintessential country red, it pairs as beautifully with Coq au Vin as it does with American country fried chicken, turkey and gravy, hamburgers, steaks, pork barbecue, and even pizza. In fact, one of our favorite foods with the Domaine du Grand Chemin is homemade pizza, made in traditional Provencal style, with a thin crust, fresh tomatoes, plenty of herbs, and two or more types of cheese. One can add prosciutto, pepperoni, or fresh vegetables that have been sautéed in olive oil and roasted garlic to add an extra kick. When accompanied by a cool bottle of Domaine du Grand Chemin Duché d'Uzès, one can smell and taste the South of France. Cassoulets, veal chops, and nearly any meat or vegetable from the grill will ably complement the friendly, tasty Domaine du Grand Chemin, too. Bon appétit!
Flying Fish Washington State Riesling 2008 – U.S.A.
Flying Fish is the latest creation of the Wahluke Wine Company located in Washington State’s Columbia Valley. It is crafted by Gordon Hill, Wahluke’s veteran winemaker and consummate Riesling and Merlot specialist. In the past 25 years, Hill has earned the reputation for making many of the highest rated wines in the Columbia Valley.
The Wahluke Wine Company is owned by the Millbrandt family. The Millbrandts have farmed the Columbia Valley for decades and are renowned for producing much of the state’s finest grapes. Flying Fish was launched in conjunction with the Click Wine Group, a dynamic wine company headed by Peter Click. This group teams with exceptional wineries from world-class appellations to produce super-premium wines.They focus on signature varietals that showcase the very best characteristics unique to each varietal and region. In the case of Flying Fish, only two wines are produced: Merlot and Riesling.
The label on Flying Fish contains a fish icon depicting the Sockeye Salmon that each year travel thousands of miles in the ocean, up the Columbia River, and past several of the winery’s vineyards. This label honors the wild salmon of the Pacific Northwest and helps preserve these and other endangered creatures for generations to come. Since its first release in 2004, Flying Fish has donated a portion of the proceeds from every case of Flying Fish sold to Ocean Conservancy (oceanconservancy.org), the nation’s largest organization dedicated solely to ocean conservation.
Tasting Notes: Light, lovely, and brimming with fresh floral flavors, the 2008 Flying Fish Riesling is testimony to how far Washington State’s Columbia Valley has come with Riesling. By blending grapes from different vineyards, Gordon Hill has crafted an off-dry Riesling with pure fruit flavors, crisp acidity and perfect balance. Apple, peach, and apricot flavors, threaded with a subtle minerality and imbued with a citrus twist, provide a very pleasing mouthful of wine with a gratifying finish. They also make the 2008 Flying Fish ohhh . . . so easy to drink. In short this is one satisfying quaff, and more. We suggest serving the 2008 Flying Fish Riesling moderately chilled (40º- 45º F).
Accompaniments: With its exquisite balance, pure fruit flavors and crisp acidity, the 2008 Flying Fish Riesling provides superb accompaniment to fish, fowl, and many spicy cuisines from Asia, Spain, India, and Thailand. For starters, this Riesling pairs beautifully with fried Chinese or Thai dumplings. Crispy fish, served with a fruit based dipping sauce, makes for another winning combination. Stir fried eggplant and scallions, smothered in a sweet, spicy roasted garlic sauce pairs nicely with the Flying Fish Riesling as well. Scallops, lightly grilled salmon, and spring rolls offer other complementary options. Whether the dish is plain or a bit spicy, Flying Fish jumps to the occasion. Enjoy!
Picket Fence Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2006 – U.S.A.
Picket Fence is a family owned vineyard in California’s beautiful Russian River Valley. Here, proprietor Katy Leese has teamed up with Don Van Staaveren, one of California’s most celebrated winemakers, to produce some of the finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the entire appellation. And when one considers the address, it is obvious that the Russian River Valley does not lack for talent or beg for notoriety. With such legendary names as Patz and Hall, Paul Hobbs, Rochioli, Siduri, and Williams Selyem as neighbors, it is obvious that Picket Fence enjoys good company. More importantly, the folks at Picket Fence want you to feel at home too and enjoy their wines. Consequently, we are sure you will be hearing a lot more about this great new venture. For now, we are content that we found Picket Fence before the world found it, because let’s face it, there is only so long that a secret remains a secret, especially in a family.
Katy Leese chose the name Picket Fence to reflect what she calls “the incredible sense of place that is embodied in her family’s vineyard and Russian River Valley home, and to pay tribute to the belief that picket fences are a timeless symbol encircling what we cherish most.” One taste of this family’s extraordinary wine will solidify the image of coming home. Picket Fence Chardonnay and Pinot Noir embody not only this special place Katy calls home, but the name also personifies the incredible people who make the wine.
For starters, the Vineyard Manager at Picket Fence is none other than the meticulous Pete Opatz, the current and past president of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association, and a man with a long history of producing great Sonoma County fruit. He has worked his magic at Chateau St. Jean and many other premium wineries for over thirty years, before coming to Picket Fence. Paired with Don Van Staaveren, the only winemaker in history to have five wines in the Wine Spectator’s top 100 in the same year, including the # 1 wine, these two gentlemen make for a formidable team. Pete and Don’s collaboration constitutes one of California’s greatest parings: Picket Fence is the latest testament to both men’s dedication and acumen.
Russian River Valley
The Russian River Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) is one of the largest and most important appellations in California. The Russian River AVA is centered in Sonoma County, south and west of Healdsburg, as it follows the Russian River towards Guerneville and the Pacific Ocean. The southwestern end of the AVA lies just 55 miles north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge.
Along the cool fog shrouded banks of the Russian River one finds some of the finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the world. Chardonnay constitutes the largest single grape variety in the valley, but Pinot Noir is fast catching up. At present there are more than fifty wineries, hundreds of grape growers, and more than 16,000 acres of planted grapes in the Russian River Valley. The well drained soil and cool climate of the Russian River Valley provide some of the longest hang time for grapes in California, which translates into fine, balanced wines of distinction.
Tasting Notes: Smooth as silk and long on flavor, the 2006 Picket Fence Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a ruby-hued gem of a wine. Made in small lots by Don Van Staaveren (only 274 barrels were produced in 2006 from a single vineyard on Westside Road), this elegant, sophisticated, fruit driven Pinot Noir offers a luxurious nose of ripe cherry fruit, spice, and toasted oak. In the mouth, the wine melts into pure velvet, with a brilliant intensity of flavor and a long, silky finish that endures for up to a minute after gleefully sliding down the throat. Rare is the California Pinot Noir that combines flavor, intensity, and texture into one elegant, alluring package, but Don Van Staaveren hit the mark with the 2006 Picket Fence Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. This wine has true palate appeal. It alone is testimony to what can be done with Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, when placed in the proper hands. We suggest serving this beautifully balanced wine at cool room temperature (60°-65º F), after just a few minutes of aeration.
Accompaniments: The 2006 Picket Fence Russian River Valley Pinot Noir pairs well with a variety of foods. The panel has chosen it to preside over more than one elegant affair because of its crowd pleasing palate appeal and overt charm. We have enjoyed this wine with grilled salmon, served with a creamy, leek infused polenta; a sage, thyme, and onion rubbed pork tenderloin with apricot and cherry chutney; and filet mignon, grilled to perfection with portabella mushrooms. Pan seared duck breast, accompanied by an apple, cherry, and cheddar tart, and oven roasted rack of lamb, served with a white potato and sweet potato röesti get our nod as well with this Pinot Noir. Savory risottos and cream based pastas fill the bill, too, so why not be creative? The 2006 Picket Fence is easy to like with just about any kind of food. Enjoy!
Hans Marlborough Viognier 2007 – New Zealand
Hans Herzog is unquestionably the maestro behind the artistry at his exceptional Marlborough estate. He is descended from one of Switzerland’s most renowned families. However, his wines should not be confused with the Baron Herzog label: purveyors of inexpensive kosher wines who have sadly blocked Hans Herzog from ever selling wine in the United States ever again under his rightful name. Hans Herzog’s family has proudly carried their surname for more than 500 years, but the Baron Herzog group has claimed legal right to the Herzog brand name under US law, and they are preventing Hans Herzog from using his own surname on the label. What is truly ironic in all this is that Hans Herzog is the real baron – so much for justice.
Hans Herzog was once the proprietor of Zurich’s most fashionable restaurant. Today, he and his wife Therese hold court at the small intimate restaurant on the Herzog property, which is actually part of their home. However, this is no rustic little affair. The Herzog Luxury Restaurant is an impeccably appointed temple of gastronomy that serves artfully prepared cuisine and equally impressive wines. This is the place to dine in New Zealand. “An epicurean heaven,” is how one critic described the Herzog restaurant. And “I really can’t recommend the restaurant too highly… without a doubt it offers the finest dining in New Zealand,” is how Wine and Food critic James Halliday describes it. And then there is the wine.
Hans Herzog is a master in the cellar as well as in the kitchen. His small, impeccably clean, well-appointed winery draws attention to its master. In fact, Hans Herzog’s winery resembles more the atelier of an artist or master craftsman than it does a modern winery; testimony to the very hands on approach Hans takes to his wines and the passion with which he approaches wine – his labor of love.
Tasting Notes: Hans Herzog’s wines have always been in a class by themselves, but his 2007 Hans Marlborough Viognier truly ranks as one of the top five Viognier wines made anywhere in the world. It is the ultimate expression of the varietal and a tribute to its creator, as well as the fabulous terroir of Marlborough. The wine is intense, balanced, and as perfect an example of Viognier that we have ever had the pleasure to drink. Mesmerizing scents of pear, apricot, spice, and so much more tantalize the nose and absolutely explode on the palate. Deep, long, and positively enthralling, this Viognier dances and sings across the palate and then lingers for a minute or more after disappearing down the throat. The 2007 Hans Viognier hits all the high notes, and everything else in between. Drink this dry, complex, completely satisfying Viognier over the next two years and as often as you can afford it. As with all of Hans Herzog’s wines, the 2007 Viognier was organically grown, hand picked from physiologically ripe fruit, and bottled without fining or filtration. It packs a wallop as it weighs-in in excess of 14% alcohol, but you would never guess that while drinking it. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Hans and Therese Herzog are two of New Zealand’s finest restaurant hosts and the proud proprietors of the only five-star restaurant winery in New Zealand. One of the surest ways they know to begin a special meal or even a convivial evening with family or friends is to open a bottle or two of one of their impeccably made, estate bottled white wines. And unequivocally, Herzog’s finest white wine to date is the estate’s 2007 Marlborough Viognier. It is the rare, dry white wine that offers the taster a truly transcendental experience, either as an aperitif, or better still, after dinner with just a piece of ripe fruit. However, another glory of world class Viognier is its chameleon-like ability to adapt to its surroundings, and the 2007 Hans Viognier certainly takes no exception to the statement. Hans Herzog’s Viognier is as much a food friendly wine as it is a great solo artist. Consequently, we suggest you double the pleasure of this outstanding Viognier by serving it with a variety of foods. Seafood, Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese specialties all pair exceptionally well with the 2007 Hans Viognier. Smoked Scottish Salmon, served with capers, onion, and cream cheese; Scallops and Pistachio Nuts, prepared in a cream sauce with shallots and herbs; Shrimp Provencal; Soft Shell Crabs; and even Lobster Stuffed Ravioli in a creamy tomato sauce all attest to this wine’s acumen with a wide variety of foods and flavors. Bon appétit!
Zaccagnini Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC 2007 – Italy
Family owned and operated since 1964, Zaccagnini has become one of the Marche’s foremost producers. Set amidst the rolling hills around Staffolo, a historic village said to be named after Staphilus, son of Bacchus, the winery benefits from decades of winemaking experience and a large selection of diverse, outstanding vineyard sites.
Operated by Mario Zaccagnini with the help of his son Franco and daughter Rosella, the Zaccagnini winery is renowned throughout the Marche region as the leader in fashioning authentic, high quality Marchesan wines from indigenous grape varieties. The most interesting of these rare varietals is Lacrima di Morro d’Alba. From the name one might think the origin of this grape lies in Italy’s Piedmont, but alas there appears to be no connection to Alba, the Piedmont’s unofficial wine capital, or to any Piedmontese grape variety for that matter. So, we suggest you simply appreciate Lacrima di Morro d’Alba on its own terms and enjoy the ardent adventure and exquisite gustatory pleasure that this unique grape provides.
The Marches
The Marches is the green, picturesque region of central Italy that lies wedged between the Apennine spine of the Italian peninsula and the cliff studded coast of the gleaming Adriatic Sea. Aside from the two month onslaught (in July and August) of Italian and Teutonic tourists that descend upon the coastal regions of the province, the Marches remains an oasis of calm, rural charm, art, religious shrines, fine food, and of course excellent wines – the very glories of Italy.
The most important wines of this rural oasis that sits just due east of Florence are Rosso Piceno, the most authentic and traditional of the region’s wines; Rosso Conero, an even more robust version of Rosso Piceno in that its cépage is the same as Rosso Piceno, except here the Montepulciano grape plays the dominant character and Sangiovese the supporting role, whereby, the opposite is the case with Rosso Piceno; Lacrima di Morro, a rare local grape variety that produces tiny quantities of perfumed wine with enormous grace and charm; and finally Verdicchio, the quintessential fish wine that hails from two distinct DOC’s: Castelli di Jesi and Matelica. Verdicchio from either region can be quite good, depending upon the producer, but by and large Matelica remains the source of the finest, fullest, and most authentic Verdicchio – a wine that also happens to be the Marches most compelling white wine, especially with seafood for which the Marches is justifiably renowned.
Tasting Notes: Zaccagnini Lacrima di Morro d’Alba is one of Italy’s most unique wines, and that says a lot: Italy grows more wine and possesses more indigenous vines than any other wine producing nation. Grown by a long-time family vintner on hillsides where wine has been produced for thousands of years, the 2007 Zaccagnini Lacrima di Morro d’Alba is a superb example of its D.O.C. appellation and the rare Lacrima di Morro d’Alba grape. Produced in a very limited area north of the ancient city of Jesi in Italy’s Marche region, this intense red with a ruby and violet hue possesses a wonderfully alluring olfactory reminiscent of rose petals and violets. Even more captivating is the wine’s smooth, distinctive mid-palate that offers up positively seductive flavors in which blueberry and blackberry tones blend artfully with fine floral characteristics and a touch of sandalwood. Made only from Lacrima grapes, Zaccagnini’s Lacrima is a wine to be both cherished and remembered. This pleasing, positively unique offering should age for up to three years or more, but why wait? The wine is absolutely entrancing right now. In order to fully partake of the crescendo in your glass, we suggest you allow the 2007 Zaccagnini Lacrima di Morro d’Alba at least thirty minutes of aeration before consuming. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Among classicists and modernists alike the prevailing sentiment is that “Sancerre is made for seafood,” and frankly there is hardly a better wine to pair with seafood than Sancerre. At the risk of sounding parochial, we could hardly resist the 2007 Domaine Moreux Les Bouffants with Pan Roasted Sea Scallops, served with saffron risotto, baby carrots, and sautéed spinach; Steamed New Zealand Green Lipped Oysters, prepared with a tomato, fennel, and crème fraîche; or just plain old-fashioned smoked salmon. In fact, just about any white fish or shellfish, including lobster, provides the ideal complement to Moreux’s classic Sancerre. With such wine and seafood one might be tempted to re-think one’s definition of paradise. Yet, why not ask for more? After all, Domaine Moreux’s Sancerre is more than just a seafood wine. It pairs beautifully with sweetbreads, country pâtés and smoked meats; and it easily doubles as an aperitif par excellent. Last but hardly the least, we suggest you finish a bottle of Moreux’s delicious Sancerre with Crottin de Chavignol – it is not to be missed. Bon Appétit!
