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Great Summer Wines to Slake the Thirst and Tantalize the Tongue

June 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

As the days warm and the blush of spring turns into the balmy days of summer, one looks for wines that will enliven the senses and quench the thirst. In this quest, one need not sacrifice flavor nor settle for insipid swill. Many excellent and affordable white and rosé wines abound to slake the thirst and tantalize the tongue.

Rosé continues to enjoy the favor of a growing legion of American wine drinkers, and that appetite shows no signs of abating. Although many of the rosé wines in the market are commercial, mass produced plonk that may temporarily quench the thirst but leave the palate wanting, it is also true that a growing number of artisan rosés from a myriad of grape varieties abound. Moreover, no longer are Grenache-based rosés from France the only game in town; numerous grape varieties and wine regions around the world have joined the rosé tidal wave and many of these newcomers are exceptional and well worth seeking out. One such rosé newbie is the superbly crafted 2020 Artesana Tannat Rosé from Uruguay. Pinot Noir rosés are increasingly in demand, too, as are superbly made sparkling wines in the form of hand-crafted rosés from Champagne, Alsace, Burgundy, and beyond. In this category, Camille Braun’s NV Crémant d’Alsace Rosé stands out for its exceptional quality and value. For a traditional still rosé, one cannot beat Domaine Houchart’s 2020 Côtes de Provence Rosé, a perennial overachiever.

A plethora of thirst quenching, palate pleasing white wines also await the savvy consumer this year from an assortment of grape varieties. Italy excels in this area with varieties such as Arneis, Garganega, Gavi, and Vermentino, which not only slake the thirst, they offer energy, flavor, and minerality, often with pinpoint precision. Malabaila in northern Italy’s Roero DOCG fashions several exciting Arneis wines with Aia Vecchia and Surrau being two consistent producers of top notch Vermentino at prices that won’t break the bank. The latter’s wines hail from the island of Sardinia and the famous Gallura DOCG. For Gavi, Stefano Massone’s San Cristoforo Gavi di Gavi is hard to beat as are all of Massone’s Gavis. And one should not overlook the finest estate bottled Soaves, made exclusively from Garganega. Inama remains a star among a growing number of authentic Soave producers.

Although Italy offers a cornucopia of interesting, high quality white wines, it is not alone. California and Oregon have toned down the oak and now fashion a bevy of un-oaked Chardonnays, including the sprightly 2020 Donati Sisters Forever Un-Oaked Chardonnay. Meanwhile, France continues to shine with a growing array of exceptional white wines. Traditional un-oaked Chardonnays from Chablis and the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy are better than ever. Sauvignon Blanc based wines from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon, and select sites along the Loire River also provide plenty of crisp, flavorful wines from a multitude of purveyors. Increasingly, Provence and the southern Rhône have joined the party, making delightful white wines with which to while away balmy summer days. The best of these are crafted dry from Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino), and of course Grenache, the southern Rhône’s ubiquitous varietal. Domaine Houchart fashions an outstanding crowd pleasing Côtes de Provence Blanc from traditional Provençal grape varieties. Enjoy!

Carmignano: The Smallest Jewel in the Tuscan Crown

May 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Carmignano is one of the oldest wine regions of Tuscany. The Etruscans and Romans tended vines in what is now Carmignano. Although this diminutive DOCG is lesser known today than its Tuscan siblings, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Chianti Classico, Carmignano has consistently fashioned distinctive red wines of exceptional quality from a mere 270 acres. Written records of Carmignano’s distinctive wines date back to the middle of the 14^th century, where documents as early as 1369 illustrate the importance of this small, but illustrious wine region. In fact, for centuries Carmignano was so highly regarded that written accounts attest to Carmignano selling for four times the cost of any other wine.

Throughout the centuries Carmignano has enjoyed a preferred status, becoming a favorite of dukes and popes. The Medicis introduced French varietals to Carmignano in the 1500s and in the early 1700s the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici established the area of Carmignano as a nursery for grape varieties, which included the planting of international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon that he had imported from France. Cosimo III also issued a decree controlling Carmignano’s production standards and sales, a precursor to today’s strict DOCG regulation. His decree is believed to be the first modern denomination of controlled origin for wine in the world. Moreover, the boundaries for Carmignano have remained the same to this day, making it also one of the smallest Italian DOCG areas.

Carmignano was awarded its own DOC in 1975, thanks to the efforts of Count Ugo Contini Bonacossi, and received its much coveted DOCG status in 1990. Given the region’s centuries old tradition of growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (centuries before the creation of Super Tuscan reds throughout the rest of Tuscany), Bordeaux varietals have long played an important role in the highly prized wines of Carmignano. Other permitted varietals include Sangiovese (which must constitute at least 50% of the blend), Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo, Merlot, Colorino, Syrah and two traditional Tuscan white varieties, Trebbiano and Malvasia. However, the zone’s white varietals rarely find their way any longer into Carmignano. Taste and see why Carmignano has been highly prized for centuries.

Syrah: The Unsung, Under Appreciated Red

March 25, 2021 by Don Lahey

Syrah, also known as Shiraz, is the most under-appreciated and unsung red grape variety in America, despite the varietal’s inherent quality, incredible value, and the availability of legions of great Syrah-based wines from around the world. This begs the question: Why is Syrah not more widely appreciated?

Syrah lives in the shadow of America’s current penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon, even though many Cabernets are grossly over-priced and underperforming. And of course, in recent years, there is sexy, hedonistic Pinot Noir to contend with, a wine that can be immediately gracious and charming. So where does that leave Syrah/Shiraz, a grape with two names and a proven track record that has been around a lot longer than most varietals, even though Syrah has never been better than it is today? It leaves Syrah the underdog to contend for a place at the table with the two other members of the varietal triumvirate. It also offers savvy consumers the opportunity to enjoy world class red wine for a lot less than a mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.

If doubt still remains as to Syrah’s preeminence, consider the greatest, most revered red wines of Australia, including the iconic Penfold’s Grange, stem from Syrah. And what about Hermitage and Côte Rôtie from France? They are all 100% Syrah with no shortage of greatness there! And let’s not forget the iconic Château Beaucastel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fame: its primary varietal is Syrah. Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, France, South Africa, and Washington State all fashion a bevy of beautiful Syrah-based wines, too, many from old vines some of which claim a century or more of age.

Although Syrah/Shiraz has traveled the world, France remains the spiritual home of Syrah. Chapoutier, Chevalier, Clape, Guigal, and Jaboulet are just a few of the many French producers of outstanding Syrah. Australia crafts a plethora of fabulous Shiraz wine, too, many at a fraction of the cost of France’s most expensive Syrahs. Tried and true Australian purveyors such as Chapel Hill, Nugan, and Tait make world-class Syrah at prices most of us can afford. Other New World producers put the quality in the bottle, too. California wineries Beckmen and Stolpman consistently turn out complex, age-worthy Syrahs at half of the price of Cabernet Sauvignons of equal quality. Although relative newcomers to fashioning superb Syrah, Chile’s Casas del Bosque and Casa Silva wineries craft excellent Syrahs as does South Africa’s Reyneke estate, among others. Why pay more for less? The wonderful world of Syrah awaits!

Petite Sirah: California’s Latest Darling

August 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

Petite Sirah, also known as Durif, is named for Francois Durif, the French botanist who first identified the grape in the late 19^th century in the south of France. Petite Sirah is thought to be the result of a natural chance cross pollination between Syrah and the French grape Peloursin. Durif or Petite Sirah (the names are often used interchangeably) is rarely cultivated today in its native France. However, this adaptable grape has gained considerable favor elsewhere, with California its main proponent. It is increasingly popular in Australia and Israel, too, as the grape is well-suited to a dry, Mediterranean climate.

Although called Petite Sirah, there is nothing petite about Petite Sirah, except the size of its berries. Petite Sirah produces rich, powerful, and often tannic wines that are typically at their best within the first 5 or 6 years of life, but the finest versions benefit from extensive bottle aging and live for up to two decades or more.

Petite Sirah has a long history in California where it has flourished since the 1870s. A favorite of Sonoma County’s Italian immigrant population for its deep color, rich fruit flavors, and tannic structure, Petite Sirah quickly found a place among California’s “field blends,” wines that were enamored by California’s immigrant population and the state’s burgeoning population. At the turn of the 20^th century, Petite Sirah was reputed to be among the three leading grape varieties planted in California. Zinfandel and Mourvèdre were the other players in that triumvirate. Although not nearly so widely cultivated today, Petite Sirah is enjoying resurgence, both as a key component in many of California’s finest Zinfandels and popular field blends but also on its own as a single varietal. Rich dark fruit, plenty of robust flavors, and ample tannins make Petite Sirah popular among American consumers.

Salud!
Don

Malbec: Better Than Ever

July 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

Malbec’s more than decade-long meteoric rise to prominence north of the Rio Grande has secured it a place at dinner tables and around barbecue pits all across America. Invariably, Malbec offers a deeply colored mouthful of wine that complements a wide variety of foods that Americans enjoy: steaks, burgers, pork barbecue, pizza, and a host of everyday, stick to your ribs fare. However, Malbec’s star has not always burned so brightly. For years, much of the Malbec on store shelves in this country were simply blah or at best one trick ponies, with only a handful of notable exceptions. It is not because Malbec makes inherently inferior wine (nothing could be further from the truth), but because for too long there were so few really good Malbecs in North America to choose from. With the exception of Catena, Alta Vista, Achaval-Ferrer, and a handful of other notable producers, most Malbecs in this country in decades past were one dimensional wines that provided the grape variety’s deep hue and jolt, but little else. Thankfully, all that has changed. Today, we in North America have many excellent Malbec wines to choose from and one need not have an expense account to enjoy them.

Although Malbec’s origin is southwest France, including Bordeaux, where it still plays an important supporting role alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, Argentina has come to fore as the contemporary champion and spiritual home of Malbec. A continuous stream of excellent Malbecs now flow north from Argentina to grace North American tables. And I am happy to report that many of my favorite Argentinean Malbecs are now readily available in the U.S. Almarada, a new venture from Malbec specialist Antonio Mas, offers a tasty, crowd-pleasing Malbec from the famed Uco Valley at a very reasonable price. Graffito, La Posta, Luca, Mendel, and Tikal are even more consummate Malbec producers that consistently fashion excellent, affordable Malbecs at the level of Achaval Ferrer, Catena and Alta Vista. With that said, one should also not overlook the top Malbec wines from France’s Cahors appellation where Château Armandière and Domaines Georges Vigouroux are fashioning traditional, world-class Malbecs. So why not fire up the grill, call friends over for a barbecue, and pour a glass of a truly good Malbec?

Salud!
Don

Cabernet Franc

June 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

Cabernet Franc often lives in the shadow of its younger and more assertive sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon. Although reluctant to rely on gender stereotyping of grape varietals or their particular characteristics, a compelling case can be made for describing Cabernet Franc as the feminine side of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc, whose origin appears to be the Pyrenees Mountains in southwest France, is one of Bordeaux’s oldest and most prestigious grape varietals. It predates Cabernet Sauvignon by many centuries and recent DNA testing has determined that Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc constitute the actual forebears of Cabernet Sauvignon and not the other way around as once thought.

In its spiritual home, Cabernet Franc figures prominently in both Left and Right Bank Bordeaux wines, with the most esteemed Right Bank appellations of Pomerol and St. Émilion relying more heavily on Cabernet Franc’s propensity to ripen earlier than its more famous offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc also flourishes in France’s Loire Valley, most notably in the appellations of Bourgeuil and Chinon, where it produces elegant, sophisticated red wines. Add Cabernet Franc’s hauntingly beautiful fragrance, enticing berry, currant and leafy flavors, along with rounder, more accessible tannins than its progeny, Cabernet Sauvignon, and it is easy to see why Cabernet Franc is uniformly esteemed in France and increasingly sought after by New World wineries. The most notable Cabernet Francs outside of France emanate from Argentina, California, and Chile where they are bottled as premium varietals and play key supporting roles in Meritage selections

Is 2018 Another Great Bordeaux Vintage?

June 14, 2019 by Don Lahey

It seems that those with a vested interest in Bordeaux wines are forever declaring yet another “vintage of the century” or at the very least extolling the virtues of the most recent vintage over previous ones. Since vintage makes a difference, and vintage is especially important to the quality of Bordeaux wines, one has to ask: Just how good was the Bordeaux vintage in 2018? More importantly, what are the chances the wines will live up to the early hype heaped upon them? Will the 2018 Bordeaux wines be any more thrilling than those from the last several vintages, especially those from 2015 and 2016?

Weather determines the overall quality of a vintage. While some wine regions enjoy climates that limit the vagaries of a vintage, others are not so fortunate. The weather in Bordeaux varies enormously throughout the growing season and from one year to the next, as the 2018 Bordeaux vintage can certainly attest. In 2018, Bordeaux experienced devastating hailstorms, excessive rain, severe drought, and an extended harvest into late October. Consequently, one could easily conclude that the weather Bordeaux experienced in 2018 was highly unfavorable and, because weather largely determines the quality of a vintage, the resulting wines will turn out to be equally unimpressive. However, for the châteaux that did not lose their entire crop in 2018 to Mother Nature’s whims, their 2018 Bordeaux reds may be the finest they have ever made.

It is true that the spring and early summer weather in 2018 brought many Bordeaux owners to tears and made others wonder if they would have even a few barrels to make. In fact, quite a few Bordeaux châteaux lost everything to hail and early summer rains, which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and limited crop size throughout Bordeaux. In Bordeaux, the old adage “June makes the quantity, August the style, and September the quality” surely rang true in 2018. Add exceptional weather in October that extended the growing season so that the Cabernet Sauvignon could bask on the vine to perfection and 2018 may turn out more exceptional red Bordeaux wines than anyone could ever have imagined by looking at the weather charts. While hail and torrential rains early in the season dramatically cut production, the excessive rain allowed the vines to cope with the drought conditions that developed later in the summer and fall. The results are extremely concentrated red Bordeaux wines with ripe tannins and higher than average alcohol levels. Early tastings out of barrel indicate that many Bordeaux châteaux have indeed produced their finest wines to date. The bad news is almost every châteaux has a lot less wine to sell and prices will be high due to the exceptional quality and extremely small harvest. So where does that leave the consumer?

Consumers will have a chance to look at Bordeaux’s white wines this year but will have to wait for the 2018 Bordeaux reds to come of age. However, smart consumers and all Bordeaux, Cabernet, and Merlot enthusiasts ought to be purchasing as much of the 2015 and 2016 Bordeaux reds as they can find. Quality across the board, from the lowliest Petit Châteaux to the finest Grand Crus, is exceptional. No matter how great 2018 may turn out, the 2015 and 2016 red Bordeaux wines are already in bottle and they are the real deal. Don’t miss out!

Salud!
Don

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