Vol. 4 No. 4
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
1997 Villa Puccini I.G.I. Oak Aged Tuscan Red - Italy
1999 Freemark Abbey Johannisberg Riesling - California
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
1999 Boutari Kretikos Cretan Red - Greece
White Wines Only Featured Selections
1998 Morgan Monterey Malvasia Bianca - California
1997 Villa Puccini I.G.I. Oak Aged Tuscan Red - Italy
Villa Puccini is the handiwork of Stefano Mailli, the gifted and highly acclaimed winemaker at the pretty Burchino Estate. Owned by Piergiorio and Roberto Castellani, Tuscany's prominent and prolific producers of Chianti, the individual Burchino Estate fashions small quantities of two excellent Chiantis and approximately 10,000 cases in fine vintages of Villa Puccini Tuscan Red, the estate's flagship offering. Using only grapes grown on the mid slopes of south-facing hills, Villa Puccini "Super Tuscan" Red is testimony to the talent and innovation we have come to expect from this fine estate.
Villa Puccini has been created to embody the traditions and innovative spirit of Tuscany. Only select clones of Sangiovese Grosso, harvested from the Montalcino area in the Siena hills, are used in this Super Tuscan. The typical "cepage" is 90% Sangiovese married to an addition of 10% Merlot. Together the wine is patiently aged in Slavonian oak barrels for a year or more, depending on the vintage. Further bottle ageing is then done at the winery before Villa Puccini can be released for sale to the public.
In traditional Tuscan fashion, Villa Puccini is a dry wine that embodies the best characteristics of Chianti Classico and St. Emilion (the area of Bordeaux known for its superlative Merlot based wines). And, like all red wines of character, Villa Puccini will continue to mature in the bottle for a number of years.
Sangiovese: It Was Old Before Rome Was Born
Before the rise of the Roman Empire, there was Sangiovese. Native to Tuscany and central Italy, Sangiovese was fashioned into fine wine by the surprisingly sophisticated Etruscans, centuries before Caesar went forth with the Roman tongue and hedonistic bent for guts and glory that lend their name to this noble varietal. The etymology of Sangiovese, "Sangue di Giove" means "blood of Jupiter", an indication of the power and grandeur attached to this grape.
Today, Sangiovese remains one of Italy's most important grapes, producing Brunello de Montalcino and providing the basis for Chianti, Chianti Classico, Vino Noble de Montepulciano and the myriad of "Super Tuscans" that have come to fare since the 1980's. Because of this grape's propensity to generate closely related mutations, there are a number of clones of the mighty Sangiovese that are close enough relatives to be considered Sangiovese itself. The Sangiovese Grosso and Brunello clones are widely considered by eonologists and consumers alike to be the best clones of Sangiovese, and rightfully so as these clones produce the most complex and fulfilling of all Sangiovese based wines.
Although hundreds of thousands of acres of Sangiovese are presently planted throughout Italy, much of it as far north as Piave and Fruili, the very best Sangiovese still comes almost exclusively from Tuscany, where the preponderance of Brunello and Sangiovese clones are cultivated. Like all great varietals, styles vary widely, ranging from fresh, light and young to more concentrated barrique-aged cosmopolitan versions such as Villa Puccini. And, unlike other noble varietals, like Cabernet Sauvignon, most Sangiovese wines can be perfectly enjoyable young. Even the great Sangiovese that can age well and improve for many years in the bottle offer considerable pleasure before their fifth birthday.
Tasting Notes: The 1997 Villa Puccini wears a regal, ruby robe and exhibits a complex bouquet of violets and cherries. In the mouth, the wine feels like velvet, demonstrating the benefit of a twelve-month respite in Slavonian oak. Yet, none of the blackberry, cherry or plum fruit inherent in the wine is lost nor are the subtle nuances of spice, leather and pepper that fill the mouth and culminate in a long, lovely finish. All of this is testimony to the care afforded the Villa Puccini and the greatness of the 1997 vintage in Tuscany. Simply, the 1997 vintage should rank as one of the top five vintages of the past century in central Italy. Enjoy this Super Tuscan now and over the next three years.
Accompaniments: Like so many of Tuscany's finest wines, the 1997 Villa Puccini is at its best amid the simple elegance of Tuscan cooking. Simple, natural foods that are either roasted or grilled, served in the company of the freshest produce and "alio", are the perfect backdrop to Villa Puccini. Chicken, game hens, squab, and ribolita (the Tuscan version of a bean cassoulet) all make for fulfilling accompaniments to the Villa Puccini. Spring lamb, coated with extra virgin olive oil and fresh rosemary and thyme, is another award-winning combination and of course, the unpretentious but very flavorful Florentine Steak cuts a fine form with this lovely "Super Tuscan". Moreover, we have enjoyed this wine with thin-crusted Tuscan pizzas and light pasta dishes. However, for optimum enjoyment, skip the heavy, very un-Tuscan, American-style tomato sauces with the Villa Puccini; this wine deserves more finesse and grace than the thick, acidic marinara many Americans believe is synonymous with Italian food. Enjoy!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Lamb with Fresh Horseradish
1 ½ - 2 lbs. boneless lamb leg
1 fresh horseradish root
4 Tbl. fresh parsley - chopped
1 tsp. thyme
1 stick butter
1 onion - sliced
1 cup beef broth
¼ cup red vinegar
Cut lamb into 2-inch pieces. In a large pot, place ½ of the butter, onion, thyme, bay leaf, vinegar and broth. Bring to a boil and add meat. Stir well. Cover and cook gently for 30 minutes. Remove cover and turn up heat to medium-high and simmer until liquid evaporates. Lower heat and continue to cook until lamb is browned. Set aside.
Peel and grate ¼ cup of horseradish root. Sauté it with remaining butter until the horseradish begins to brown. Add parsley and cook a minute or two. Pour over lamb and heat lamb through one more time.
Quote for Red Wine:
"The point of drinking wine is…to taste sunlight trapped in a bottle and to remember some stony slope in Tuscany or a village by the Gironde."
----John Mortimer
1999 Freemark Abbey Johannisberg Riesling
Freemark Abbey: A Winery With Deep Roots
Freemark Abbey, long known for its rich history and hand-crafted wines, traces its Napa Valley roots back to 1886 when a pioneering young woman named Josephine Tychson began producing wine in what was then known as Tychson Cellars. Not only was the winery among the first of the original sixteen wineries in Napa, but it was also the first to be built and operated by a woman. Tychson Cellars later became known as Freemark Abbey in 1939 under the ownership of three partners - Charles Freeman, Markquand Foster and Albert "Abbey" Ahern, who combined their names to reestablish the stone cellar facility following prohibition.
After a succession of owners, Freemark Abbey was eventually purchased in 1967 by a seven family partnership of growers led by Chuck Carpy. With this new ownership, the renaissance of Freemark Abbey began. Marked by intimate knowledge of the land, the grapes and vinification techniques, this enterprising group reinforced Freemark's reputation as one of Napa's premier wineries.
The wines were, and still are, crafted exclusively from premium grapes sourced from vineyards owned and operated by the grower-partners, thus ensuring a unified commitment to consistent, premium quality wine. Located in the most highly regarded sections of Napa Valley, their vineyards were carefully planted with the varietals best suited to the individual soils and microclimates. The result is fruit of excellent quality and superb varietal character…a hallmark of Freemark Abbey wines.
Today, Director of Winemaking, Ted Edwards, keeps the pioneering tradition alive with an emphasis on vineyard management, as well as facility improvements. Mentored by Chuck Carpy, Ted has a clear vision for the winery that is shaped by its rich history, and classic winemaking style. Using a proven combination of superior grapes, state-of-the-art equipment and time-tested techniques, Freemark Abbey is able to create wines of uncompromising quality and taste. Barrel aging in French oak and subsequent bottle aging yields wines that are rich, flavorful and beautifully balanced.
Unquestionably, Freemark Abbey's vineyards are among the best in California. James Laube of The Wine Spectator hales Freemark's Bosche Vineyard in the top ten in California. Consequently, it should come as no surprise that Freemark Abbey consistently turns out excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and one of the few, very fine, truly pleasurable California Johannisberg Rieslings.
Johannisberg Riesling
Riesling, or more specifically Johannisberg Riesling, to distinguish this varietal from the lesser Grey Riesling, is one of the oldest and noblest of all white wine grapes. From her shy bearing vines come all the classic wines of Germany: whether it be a fine delicate Mosel or a rich, concentrated and sometimes spicy wine from the Rheingau, it is Riesling alone that makes it great. In good years, the rare years, when the sun shines abundantly to fully ripen the grapes, slowly and until the leaves begin to color and fall from the trees, Riesling is the epitome of elegance, breed, fruit and sweetness; it is pure nectar.
Although the exact origin of Riesling remains a mystery, we do know that the Romans brought viticulture to the steep hillside along the Rhine and Mosel and that since the dawn of the Christian era, man has tended vines in the high valleys beside the Rhine and its tributaries and each year, pressed the golden nuggets of the Riesling and its forebears into wine. Inevitably, Riesling has been transported through the ages to Austria, Yugoslavia, France, Switzerland, Italy, Australia, South Africa, the United States, and just about everywhere else fine wine is made. In nearly every bottle, Riesling is capable of producing a wide variety of "fine" wines, ranging from bone dry to the most luscious dessert wines.
Tasting Notes: "This is the most delicious California Riesling we've tasted in years," commented one member of the tasting panel. " I usually don't like Riesling…it's too sweet and unbalanced, but this one I like…it's bold…but balanced," expounded another taster. Indeed, the 1999 Freemark Abbey Riesling is different from most California versions of this noble varietal. From its pale, golden-hued robe to its long, expressive finish, the Freemark Abbey Riesling smacks of ripe, succulent fruit, balanced by natural acidity. What mitigates the sweetness in this rendition is the 12% alcohol that lays body and power over ripe peach, pear and apple flavors, which seem infused with subtle hints of almond and spice. Drink this well-honed beauty moderately chilled. After one long drought of the Freemark Abbey, we bet we'll have a few more converts to this noble but often, mis-handled varietal.
Accompaniments: All right, all right! We'll confess to enjoying the 1999 Freemark Abbey Riesling with a number of eclectic dishes. However, many of us really enjoyed this wine "au natural". It makes for a great aperitif, all by itself. Having said that, we do have a fondness for serving the Freemark Abbey Riesling with either caramelized pork or a glazed flounder. Vietnamese spring rolls and flavorful vegetable dishes also make outstanding complements to this wine, as do Chicken Dijon and most other poultry dishes. We've even enjoyed it with a Greek salad. Bon apetit.
Recipe for White Wine:
Caramelized Pork
1-½ lb. package pork tenderloins
1 Tbl. vegetable oil
3 Tbl. brown sugar
1 Tbl. white vinegar
¼ cup ketchup
½ cup pineapple or orange juice
1 med. onion - chopped
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
In a large skillet, brown pork and onion in oil. Remove pork to a plate and add remaining ingredients to skillet. Stir well and simmer about 5 minutes. Place pork tenderloins in an ovenproof casserole dish and pour skillet mixture over them. Reduce temperature to 350 degrees and bake for 45 minutes or until cooked through.
Quote for White Wine:
"Wine is the flower in the buttonhole of civilization."
----Werumeus Buning
1999 Boutari Kretikos Cretan Red
The Boutari Winery, founded in 1879 by Yauni Boutari, represents the very finest in Greek wines. From a single winery outside of Naoussa in northern Greece, Boutari now owns and operates six other wineries throughout Greece, from Macedonia to Attica and the islands of Paros, Santorini and Crete. Each individual winery specializes in the production of its region's unique wines. By resurrecting the unique qualities of the indigenous grape varieties of classical Greece, and by sometimes combining those ancient varieties with premium French varietals such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Boutari has elevated the quality of wines from this most ancient of wine growing countries.
Today, Boutari is the world's number one selling Greek wine, evidence of having earned its rightful place on any fine table. Boutari is also the only Greek winery to have earned Wine and Spirits prestigious International Winery of the Year Award.
Tasting Notes: The 1999 Boutari Kretikos Red was "born and bred" on Crete, an island with a long tradition of viticulture. The vibrant, ruby red robe and lively, spicy, fruit driven aromas and flavors of this wine reflect the Cretan passion for life and creativity. Smooth, dry and easy to drink, the Boutari Kretikos is as balanced and beautiful as a sunny spring day along the azure coast of this classical land. Produced solely from
indigenous grape varietals (Kotsifali and Montilaria), Kretikos is testimony to the quality and individuality of native varietals, as well as the expertise of the folks at Boutari.
Accompaniments: Pasta, roasted meats and sharp cheese are the traditional food pairings with the red wines of Crete. A homemade pizza with black olives and a roast leg of lamb with a black olive paste remain two of our favorite dishes with this delicious wine. Moussaka and Spanakopeta are also wonderful companions to the red Boutari Kretikos, underscoring the wine's versatility. Traditional American fare works well, too. Enjoy!
1998 Morgan Monterey Malvasia Bianca - California<
Founded in 1982, the Morgan Winery produces wines of great style and distinction, primarily from the Monterey Appellation. The winemaking style at this estate emphasizes the fruit inherent in the wine as it is expressed from the vineyards with virtually no filtration for the white wines, and neither fining nor filtration for the red wines.
Morgan produces a full line of expressive red and white wines. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and a rich, fry Malvasia Bianca comprise the white wine "carte". Meanwhile, pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel and a field blend called Crow's Roost round out the winery's red wine repertoire. In addition, Morgan also turns out excellent reserve bottlings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from selected barrels; each reserve bottling has sufficient structure to warrant several years of aging.
In all, Morgan produces wines that offer the consumer a good dose of pleasure, as well as charm. How we wish more California wineries would adopt this estate's philosophy of producing flavorful, hedonistic wines.
Tasting Notes: The 1998 Morgan Malvasia Bianca offers a pale straw, slightly golden color with brilliant clarity. The nose is quite forward, with intense aromatic qualities reminiscent of Alsatian Gewurztraminer. In the mouth, the wine conjures dry Muscat-like flavors and tangerine tones that are offset by gentle hints of peach. Rich and round on the palate, a bright citrus tang keeps the wine fresh and reminds you that this is indeed a dry wine, replete with all the finesse, delicacy and subtlety of Malvasia. True to this varietal's ancient Greek origins, the Morgan Malvasia offers the imbiber a taste of ambrosia, the heady wine of the gods - an experience not so easily forgotten. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: With its full, ample flavors, rich fruit and aromatic qualities, we recommend the Morgan Malvasia with Asian cuisines and medium-spicy foods. Thai food and more complex Sechuan and Hunan-style Chinese dishes have proven to be especially successful with this wine. We have also enjoyed this Malvasia with roast chicken, stuffed turkey, and various pate's, including foie gras. Recently, roast duck with a peach glaze was also a hit, but the Morgan Malvasia is a wine to experiment with - so be daring! Remember, "no guts, no glory"!
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