Past Newsletters - Dec 2008

Premier Series
Featured Wineries & Wines	Membership Type
Bouwland Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot	1 Red 1 White; 2 Reds
Paso a Paso La Mancha Verdejo	1 Red 1 White; 2 Whites
Marcel Lapierre Morgon	2 Reds
Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Pinot Blanc	2 Whites

Master Series
Featured Wineries & Wines	Membership Type
Château Belle-Vue Haut Médoc	1 Red 1 White; 2 Reds
Paso a Paso La Mancha Verdejo	1 Red 1 White
Bouwland Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot	2 Reds

Collector Series
Featured Wineries & Wines	Membership Type
Château Belle-Vue Haut Médoc	1 Red 1 White; 2 Reds
Peter Zemmer Cortinie Bianco	1 Red 1 White
Pasanau Finca La Planeta Priorat	2 Reds

Bouwland Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005 – South Africa

Wine arrives at our tables from innumerable sources. Today, most of the wine purchased by consumers in the United States is made by large corporate ventures that churn out huge quantities of drinkable, but mostly soulless, wines – wines that lack individuality, a sense of place, and any true connection to the people who helped create them. Other wineries, whose wares we prefer to taste and feature, are artisanal ventures for which the making of wine remains a craft that provides a sustainable livelihood for the people responsible for the handiwork. Moreover, from the fruits of such an enterprise one can taste the terroir and become acquainted with the rhythms of life, and perhaps even catch a glimpse of the land and the people who grew the fruit and made the ensuing wine. In such wines, one senses a soul. Bouwland Winery is indeed such a venture. It is an endeavor whose wines reflect the unique terroir of South Africa's Stellenbosch region and the spirit of the people who made it.

Bouwland Winery is owned and run by 60 African farmers who, through an exciting empowerment project, bought the majority of the shares in the property. It is situated on the famous historic slopes where the Stellenbosch Simonsberg region delivers arguably the finest wines in South Africa. Bouwland comprises 56 hectares (or roughly 123 acres) of prime vineyards, including many noble red varietals. Together, with celebrated winemaker Beyers Truter who retains an interest in the farm, the team produces deliciously rich, fruity wines of unmistakable character.

The International Wine of the Month Club is pleased to be one of the first to offer wines from Bouwland Winery in the United States. Therefore, we would like to thank Selena Cuffe, President and CEO of Heritage Link Brands, for the opportunity to feature the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot from Bouwland Winery. We would also like to commend her on her extraordinary selection of wines from indigenous African sources.

Heritage Link Brands

Dear International Wine of the Month Club Member:

On behalf of the Bouwland Winery and Heritage Link Brands, it is with honor and humility that we share this month's selection with you, the Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005, with hopes that you enjoy it immensely and reflect deeply with every sip!
Heritage Link Brands was founded in 2005. We are the only company in the United States dedicated to importing wine harvested by indigenous producers throughout the African Continent. We showcase only the highest quality and variety of cultivars. Heritage Link Brands works with vintners from across Africa, where viticultural soils trace back more than a million years, producing palm wine in Ghana, honey wine in Ethiopia, and the finest grape wines from across the continent. However the majority of our wines, including the Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, come from Africa's most developed wine market, South Africa.

South Africa is the ninth largest wine-producing country in the world. Ironically, almost 15 years since the fall of apartheid, blacks own less than 2% of this $3 billion wine industry, even though they comprise 80% of the country's population. Heritage Link Brands was founded to not only help democratize the landscape in South Africa, but also, through the medium of wine, to expose the world to the beauty that is on the African continent. We are leading a wave of "conscious consumption" that is reshaping not only the South African wine category, but also the U.S. wine industry.

The Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot is infused with stories of love, hope, perseverance, and achievement, despite the odds. This strikes a chord with U.S. consumers and is akin to the American dream. Not to mention, the wine is great! With our wines, above all else, quality comes first! But isn't it wonderful to know that as a wine lover, your selections can have a sustainable impact on the world in which we all live? We hope this remarkable wine and the story behind its production sparks insightful conversations with loved ones, inspires you to feel good, and do good!

—Selena Cuffe; Founder Heritage Link Brands

Tasting Notes: A full-bodied, deeply colored wine, the 2005 Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot embodies the best that Stellenbosch and the Cape of South Africa have to offer. In fact, the aromatic fireworks alone on this wine are worth the price of admission. The 2005 Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon offers up the unmistakable scents of roasted coffee, chocolate, espresso, scorched earth, and eucalyptus to tantalize the nose, but be sure to let this youthful wine breathe. It is packed with smooth black and red berry flavors and backed by ample, sweet tannins that will allow it to improve in bottle for at least another four or five years. It is, however, positively enthralling now with a little tender love and care. Allow the 2005 Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot an hour of aeration in a decanter and you will surely capture the taste and the magic of South African wine. Enjoy!

Accompaniments: Beef, lamb, and game provide outstanding accompaniments to the 2005 Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot. Tenderloin of veal or beef served with mushrooms and a truffle glaze, smoked breast of duck or turkey served with warm foie gras, and Pecan-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Green Beans are but a few winning combinations with this wine. However, antelope, ostrich, and venison offer other fine choices to pair with the 2005 Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, at least for the slightly more adventuresome. For the more timid, burgers and ribs will do, too. For something a little lighter, why not try the Bouwland Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot with a roasted vegetable pavé and creamy goat cheese polenta or even a simple platter of cheese and olives to showcase the wealth of flavors one encounters in the best wines of South Africa?

Paso a Paso La Mancha Verdejo 2007 – Spain

Paso a Paso, meaning step by step in Spanish, is another successful venture of the indefatigable Jorge Ordonez, one of the leading importers of Spanish wines in the United States. Like its red predecessor and cousin Mano a Mano, Paso a Paso springs from the finest terroir in La Mancha and is already playing to great critical acclaim. And once again, everything about Paso a Paso reflects Ordonez's natural hands-on approach to winemaking. Perhaps even more importantly, Paso a Paso further establishes La Mancha as a quality wine-producing region for both white and red wines.

La Mancha is just beginning to show the world that its only claim to fame is not Cervantes' celebrated hero Don Quixote. With his first release of Mano a Mano in 2004 and now Paso a Paso in 2008, the Spanish oenologist Rafael Cañizares offers testimony to what Ordonez and others are claiming about La Mancha: it is a veritable treasure trove of undiscovered wines, many from old vines. Paso a Paso's vines average 40 years or more. Moreover, Rafael Cañizares demonstrates that the great Verdejo variety in La Mancha is now every bit as good as the wonderful Tempranillo that the world has begun to expect from this once-forgotten wine region.

Jorge Ordonez

Jorge Ordonez is one of the most influential names in Spanish wine. From virtual obscurity in 1987, Ordonez has risen to the position of guardian, prophet, and zealot all in the name of Spanish wines. He has advanced and revolutionized the Spanish wine industry in all respects. Moreover, he has educated and introduced Americans to a treasure trove of fine Spanish wines.

When he started his quest in 1987, the then-27-year-old Jorge Ordonez was a voice in the wilderness. Two decades ago, the quality and variety of Spanish wines for export had become nothing short of dismal. Spanish wine sales lagged far behind that of France, Italy, and California; and overall quality was variable at best. By the force of his dynamic, visionary personality and sheer hard work, Ordonez has brought fine Spanish wines to the forefront of American wine drinking. At the same time, the now-47-year-old Ordonez has improved the overall quality and consistency of Spanish wines. Presently, he oversees an amazing portfolio of more than 130 Spanish wines from 40 different wineries. His name on a bottle of Spanish wine is as close to a seal of quality and value as one can find, simply because "When nobody cared about Spanish wines," Ordonez proclaims, "I was there."

Robert Parker, Jr., the influential wine critic, has twice named Jorge Ordonez Wine Personality of the Year. Others have dubbed this remarkable man the best friend Spanish wine ever had, while still others claim that Ordonez has provided the impetus for the present renaissance in Spanish wines. Indeed, this is the Siglo d'Oro or Golden Age of Spanish wine, thanks in large part to Jorge Ordonez and a few other like-minded visionaries.

Tasting Notes: Wow! Rafael Cañizares has fashioned a world-class Verdejo in the 2007 Paso a Paso to match many of the finer, more expensive examples of this varietal from Rueda, the traditional home of Verdejo. Pure fruit, stone, and citrus all present themselves in the finest fashion in the 2007 Paso a Paso Verdejo. In the nose and on the palate this wine dances and shimmers. It runs the gamut between lush, hedonistic fruit and cold steel. Lest you think this unattractive, we ask you to consider what a wine would be like without fruit? And then, what would become of a white wine without a fresh, cold, crisp finish? Put these attributes together and you have Paso a Paso's 2007 Verdejo. In addition, if you let this wine sit a few minutes in the glass and shed its initial chill, all kinds of fresh melon scents and flavors emerge, tantalizing the tongue and begging for another sip. There is even subtlety and complexity here. In order to go the distance with this wine, we suggest you chill it moderately (38º-45º F) and then allow it to evolve in the glass: there is more to this wine than first meets the tongue. Enjoy the trip!

Accompaniments: The 2007 Paso a Paso Verdejo provides the perfect aperitif. It is also a natural party wine and a superb partner to seafood, pasta, and risotto. Carnaroli Risotto served with wild morels, caramelized broccoli, and a healthy dose of Parmesan Reggiano provides a splendid accompaniment and a terrific way to start an evening. And with its racy fruit, hedonistic flavor, and crisp finish that simultaneously quenches the thirst as it awakens the gustatory passions that haunt the mind, the 2007 Paso a Paso Verdejo provides a great companion to tapas and the freshest sushi. Grilled Sea Bass with steamed jasmine rice, Bacon Crusted Swordfish with grilled Portobello mushrooms, and Potato Encrusted Grouper served with shitake mushrooms and smoked salmon duxelles are just a few of the favored dishes that can evoke paradise in the presence of the 2007 Paso a Paso Verdejo. Steamed shrimp, mussels, clams, and oysters provide other good bets with this flavorful, very-easy-to-drink white wine. Crusted cheeses such as Brie, Camembert, and Explorateur provide outstanding, easy-to-prepare accompaniments, too.

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2007 – France

Marcel Lapierre began his personal adventure in wine in 1973, when he took over 7 hectares of prime vineyard land in Morgon from his grandfather. However, it was not until Marcel Lapierre met Jules Chauvet, the well-known researcher at the University of California, that his star began to rise. With Chauvet's guidance, Marcel embarked on a whole new regime at his domaine. Since 1981, Marcel Lapierre's Morgon has been quite different from that of his neighbors. His wine is bottled without chaptalization or additional yeasts and with little or no sulfites. Moreover, his vineyard has been farmed for nearly three decades using organic and biodynamic principles – a rarity in Beaujolais.

Marcel Lapierre's goal is both ambitious and attainable. In addition to employing natural biodynamic methods of production, there is only hand harvesting at the estate and little or no filtration of his only wine, Morgon. Modern techniques are employed during fermentation, but no additives are used because "the aim is not to close the door on progress, but to stimulate natural defenses," Lapierre asserts. And one can hardly argue with the results. Marcel Lapierre's wines are the finest in the appellation and getting better every year.

Since January of 2005, Marcel Lapierre's son Mathieu has joined his father in the pursuit of natural winemaking and what they lovingly refer to as "soft farming techniques." The family domaine remains small (only 11 hectares or 24 acres). All of the grapes in Lapierre's Morgon come from the estate or from a few Morgon parcels that the Lapierre's harvest using their own natural methods. Come and taste the difference.

Tasting Notes: There is Beaujolais, and then there is Beaujolais . . . and then there is Marcel Lapierre's Morgon. The 2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon attests to the fact that great Beaujolais does indeed exist and is not a myth created by some critic's imagination. Just taste Lapierre's Morgon and you will see the difference. Lapierre's wine is made from organically grown grapes from one of the ten Grand Cru villages of Beaujolais, using non-interventionalist methods. Lapierre's Morgon is both compelling and complete. It is redolent in the nose and refined on the palate. It offers elegance, flavor, and purity like no other Beaujolais, and in fact very few red village Burgundies could go head to head with this Morgon and remain standing. Pretty violet and cherry fruit flavors literally pour from the glass. And in the mouth, the 2007 Lapierre Morgon is round, vinous, and positively charming. It finishes with panache and the most important attribute of any wine: it makes you want to come back for more. Enjoy the 2007 Lapierre Morgon cool (60º-65º F) after just a few minutes of aeration. It should drink well now and for next three or four years. It was bottled unfiltered, so it may throw a bit of natural sediment. Salut!

Accompaniments: Marcel Lapierre's 2007 Morgon needs no other accompaniment than a clean crystal glass. However, we will concede that traditional Burgundian fare and other savory dishes from around the world will only double your pleasure with this superb Morgon. Grilled salmon as well as lightly flavored meats such as veal, ham, and pork make fine accompaniments to the 2007 Lapierre Morgon, especially now while this wine is young and in the full bloom of its youth. Light game, such as Cornish hens, quail, and squab will fare well, too, especially as this Morgon matures in bottle. Traditional, savory Burgundian dishes, such as Coq au Vin, provide other excellent choices with this comely Morgon. And if these classics do not provide enough tasty choices, there is no better red wine pairing with cheese than Grand Cru Beaujolais, especially a Morgon of this stature.

Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Pinot Blanc 2007 – USA

Valley of the Moon is the most historic terroir in Sonoma County as well as one of California's viticutural icons. Haunted by history and romance, the Sonoma Valley was called "Valley of the Moon" by the Native Americans who inhabited the area because, as the moon ascended in the evening sky, it appeared to rise, again and again, over the peaks and glens of the Mayacamas mountain range. Thus, the moon in all its phases is the symbol for Valley of the Moon Winery and Vineyards, which are located in the very heart of Sonoma Valley. The etched design on the bottle of each Valley of the Moon wine depicts the lunar phases surrounded by a "cosmos" of white dots, thereby portraying the expression of moonlight as the reflected light of the sun.

The land on which the Valley of the Moon Winery and Vineyards is located has an illustrious past. Once, it was part of the vast 48,000-acre Agua Caliente Land Grant owned by the legendary statesman General MarianoVallejo, the 19th century Mexican governor of California. After California became part of the United States, the property changed owners several times before 1863, when the "Stone Tract" portion of the property was conveyed to Mr. George Whitman. According to the best records, Mr. Whitman was the first owner to grow wine grapes on the land. He also built a winery there and by 1876 his enterprise was a hugely successful one, annually producing 50,000 gallons of wine and at least 2,000 gallons of brandy. Later in the 19th and early 20th centuries a succession of owners would take possession of this illustrious property, including George Hearst, the father of the renowned newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst. Today, Valley of the Moon is part of Heck Estates, one of the most respected names in Sonoma County.

Valley of the Moon produces traditional red and white varietals. It bottles outstanding Zinfandel from a vineyard planted in the 1940s as well as excellent Syrah, Sangiovese, Barbera, and a Meritage offering called Cuvee de la Luna. In addition, Valley of the Moon fashions benchmark Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. At Valley of the Moon Winery, all estate bottled wines are produced from organic grapes, and sulfite usage is minimal. No other preservatives are employed, resulting in healthy, natural-tasting wines.

Tasting Notes: The 2007 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc is another outstanding effort from this winery. Richly robed and dominated by tropical fruit aromas, the 2007 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc offers a cornucopia of scents and plush, ripe flavors. Guava, pineapple, and hints of toasted coconut dominate the bouquet and savor of this pure, fruit-driven Pinot Blanc. Reflecting the coastal climate of southern Sonoma County and its roots in the region's deep alluvial soil, the 2007 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc epitomizes the exuberant, ripe Sonoma-style of California winemaking that is now imitated the world over. Gaining depth, flavor, and length as it breathes, each sip of this luscious, dry, full-throttle white wine demonstrates why Pinot Blanc is a premium varietal that deserves greater recognition, especially in California, where it preserves its natural acidity and vibrancy. Consequently, this Valley of the Moon offering possesses all the ripe, racy sensuality of the varietal. Moreover, it is balanced by a delicate nuance of French oak, resulting in a cachet of spice that typifies the finest examples of California Pinot Blanc. We suggest serving this wine well chilled, at least initially. Afterwards, it can slowly evolve to 50°-55°F for a whole new taste sensation.

Accompaniments: Like most well-made Pinot Blancs, the 2007 Valley of the Moon has a natural affinity for Asian food, fusion dishes, and a host of eclectic gastronomic offerings. Moreover, we suggest that you pair this wine with typically hard-to-match dishes and enjoy the result. Some of our favorite pairings include a lump crab roll served with Chinese vegetables and a sesame dipping sauce; a mixed green salad that is topped with caramelized walnuts, poached pears, tomatoes, crushed blue cheese, and a Champagne vinaigrette; and Bhel Puri, an Indian dish which consists of a mélange of puffed rice, dried vermicelli, onions, and fresh coriander. Other worthwhile accompaniments are grilled or roasted pork tenderloins with fruit chutneys and Vietnamese noodles. We also recommend fresh Vietnamese spring rolls, served with either a sweet and sour sauce or a mild peanut and garlic sauce. Salads and soft cheeses also complement the 2007 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc and will often accentuate the wine's extroverted personality and wealth of flavors. Enjoy!

Château Belle-Vue Haut Médoc 2003 – France

Château Belle-Vue is a 22-acre gem of an estate. It is one of several superb, recently renovated Haut-Médoc châteaux that are producing wines equal to classified growths. In recent years this diminutive property has collected well-deserved press and numerous accolades for its suave, sophisticated Margaux style wine. The success of this property serves as a reminder of just how fine the wines from well-situated, carefully run cru bourgeois Bordeaux châteaux can be, especially in a hot vintage such as 2003.

Until 1996, what is now Château Belle-Vue was part of Château de Gironville, and all of Belle-Vue's vines went into the production of Château de Gironville. Situated on a plateau of deep well-drained gravel 7-10 meters deep, Château Belle-Vue lies adjacent to the great Château Giscours and the Margaux appellation. Since renovating Belle-Vue's cellars and bottling the wine under its own label, Château Belle-Vue has distinguished itself by garnering numerous honors and medals at France's most prestigious wine competitions.

Given Château Belle-Vue's formidable terroir, grapes ripen early at this chateau – a distinct advantage in most vintages. Consequently, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant variety in the vineyard, but Château Belle-Vue also holds the distinction of growing perhaps the highest percentage of Petit Verdot of any Médoc château. In a vintage such as 2003, Petit Verdot shines; it complements Cabernet Sauvignon and adds polish and subtle complexity to the grand vin. Enjoy!

Bordeaux: The World's Most Renowned Wine

Bordeaux is the world's largest fine wine-producing region, encompassing more than 500,000 acres and dozens of individual appellations and communes. Communes such as Margaux, Pauillac, and St. Emilion are legendary, as are the scores of collectible wines that flow from their vineyards. Indeed, the wine wares of Bordeaux (both the region and its wines are referred to as Bordeaux) are some of the finest and most expensive on earth. Furthermore, this renowned viticultural region, which has become synonymous with full-bodied red wine, is also the traditional home of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, the three musketeers of almost all red Bordeaux and the basis for Meritage blends around the world. Malbec, Petit Verdot, and even Carmenère are other red Bordeaux varietals that figure into the cepage or blend of at least some Bordeaux châteaux. And what remains unknown to many consumers is that Bordeaux is also one of the planet's largest and greatest sources of white wine, principally from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

Bordeaux, meaning beside the waters, refers to the region's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and the broad estuary, the Gironde, for which the entire viticultural department (the equivalent of a county or state in the United States) is named. Bordeaux, the region as well as the department's leading city, lies at the center of the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers, which flow into the Gironde, which redoubles Bordeaux's effort to live up to its name. Moreover, it is Bordeaux's propinquity to the sea that provides a stable, moderate climate, which is favorable to the production of fine wine. This marriage to the sea has also provided the historical highway by which Bordeaux wines have traveled the world, gaining esteem and recognition long before most other landlocked wine regions were able to safely transport their wines overland to eager markets.

Since the first century BCE, when the Romans established themselves in Bordeaux and referred to the area as Biturigiaca, this ancient viticultural paradise has been a constant source of fine wine. Known to the emperors of Rome, poets (most notably Pliny and Ausonius), and popes, Bordeaux has enjoyed the envy of the wine-producing world longer than any other wine region on earth. From Pliny to the most contemporary wine critics, including Robert Parker Jr., Bordeaux wines have never gone out of favor. Besides, what other wine region can claim three millennia of continuous production and millions of satisfied customers?

Tasting Notes: A deep impenetrable robe is the first indication that the 2003 Château Belle-Vue Haut-Médoc is no ordinary Bordeaux. And the wine's flamboyant, almost exotic bouquet confirms the hypothesis. Reminiscent of top-notch Margaux or even Pomerol in this vintage, the 2003 Château Belle-Vue captivates the nose with scents of wild berries, crème de cassis, scorched earth, and lush woodlands. On the palate this warm, flavorful claret unfolds slowly and methodically, but the end result makes it well worth the wait. Lush, smooth, well-integrated flavors conjure the essences of blackberry, coffee, and vanilla as they glide harmoniously across the palate. They are followed by a wave of sweet tannins, transfused with mocha and plum. Although gentle and hedonistic from the moment the cork exits the bottle, the 2003 Château Belle-Vue is persistent on the palate and never misses a beat. Just give it some time to breathe (an hour is not too long) and you will be well rewarded. Gently and without fanfare, this charming well-balance claret works its magic. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.

Accompaniments: Given the gentle, sophisticated nature of the 2003 Château Belle-Vue, our favorite accompaniments with this charming Haut-Médoc are simple, artfully prepared meals that are long on natural taste and short on heat or strong, spicy flavors. Consequently, a rotisserie chicken or an herb-grilled breast of chicken provides an ideal background with which to highlight this wine. Chicken Barigoule, a rotisserie fried chicken breast with braised artichokes, garlic, pearl onions, carrots, asparagus, and tomatoes, offers an especially tasty accompaniment to the finesse and subtlety of the 2003 Château Belle-Vue. Veal and pork tenderloin present other wonderful gastronomic opportunities with this superbly crafted Haut-Médoc. An assortment of French cheeses that includes Cantal, Port Salut, or even a young Camembert, while offering an excellent alternative to meat, proffers yet another splendid way to enjoy the 2003 Château Belle-Vue; but this wine hardly needs accompaniments to please. Unlike many young red Bordeaux, the 2003 Château Belle-Vue is a pleasure to sip on its own. A votre santé!

Peter Zemmer Cortinie Bianco 2007 – Italy

Editor's Note: Peter Zemmer was recently named "Best European Winemaker" at one of Europe's leading wine competitions. Peter, named for his grandfather and the founder of the estate, drastically limits yields at his family's domaine in the Alto Adige and fashions wines of exquisite charm and distinction from a growing number of varietals.

In Cortina, amidst the alpine hills and valleys of the South Tyrol (Alto Adige), nestles the Zemmer family winery. Founded in 1928 by Peter Zemmer, this family-owned-and-run operation has recently emerged as one of the zone's leading producers of both white and red wines, thanks to the visionary leadership of Helmuth Zemmer and his talented winemaker son Peter, the firm's current guardians.

The hallmark of Zemmer's wines is always a pure, precise, highly focused aroma that defines the essence of the varietal or varietals from which they are made. In addition, the aroma of a Zemmer wine is merely the prelude to the rich flavors that lie within. Zemmer's wines are consistently gratifying libations that appeal to the purist taster; they are completely unmanipulated expressions of their cepage and terroir. In other words, no smoke or mirrors are employed here. The annual harvest comes only from Zemmer's own vineyards and those that are bound by tradition to the Zemmer property. White wines, most notably Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and a luxury blend labeled Cortinie Bianco, dominate this producer's outstanding portfolio, but Zemmer also fashions fine, full-bodied red wines that merit serious attention.

Alto Adige or Sud Tirol?

In Italian, Alto Adige refers to the high or upper reaches of the Adige, the stony, swift-flowing river that Ernest Hemingway immortalized in A Farewell to Arms. However, most of the world knows this stunning country as the Sud Tirol or the South Tyrol. The dual name illuminates this region's splintered history and highlights its continuing split personality. Presently, Alto Adige is officially an autonomous region of Italy, but the Alto Adige or South Tyrol remains primarily German speaking, which underscores the fact that for most of its tortured history this beautiful alpine land of lederhosen and loden caps was an integral part of Austria. In fact, it was not until after World War I that the South Tyrol was ceded begrudgingly to Italy.

In spite of or, perhaps, because of the South Tyrol's plurality, ethnic diversity, and historical factional violence, the present generation of winemakers in Alto Adige of both Austrian and Italian heritage have banded together in the common pursuit of happiness and prosperity. In doing so, the winemakers of the Alto Adige/ Sud Tirol have fashioned some of the highest standards for winemaking in all Italy. Consequently, more than 50 percent of the zone's wines are DOC designated, while a substantial portion of the area's non-DOC offerings constitute Alto Adige's most expensive and illustrious offerings (Zemmer Cortinie Bianco, for example) simply because DOC regulations do not yet provide for imaginative, luxury blends.

While it may be true that white wine is the calling card of Alto Adige and that many of Italy's finest white wines do indeed flow from its pretty hills and valleys, this industrious, forward-thinking region is also renowned for its production of light- to medium-bodied red wines of supreme bouquet, finesse, and style. So whether it be an outstanding Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, or Pinot Grigio, or one of Alto Adige's little know reds in the guise of Santa Maddalena, Teroldego, or even Lagrein, quality remains the region's unifying factor.

Tasting Notes: "A meditative white wine" is how several panel members described the 2007 Zemmer Cortinie Bianco. Soft and succulent upon first impression, this wine opens beautifully with minimal aeration to reveal tremendous class and breed along with plenty of flavor. Wrapped in a pale yellow robe, the Zemmer Cortinie Bianco is an artful blend of the Alto Adige's finest white grape varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewürztraminer. And like all of Zemmer's wines, the 2007 Cortinie Bianco possesses an enchanting bouquet; in this case, the scents of peaches and rich stone fruits mingle with spring flowers and a waft of light luxurious fruit that seems deftly tinged with lemon drops and the essence of tropical oils. Meanwhile, an adroit touch of oak adds a subtle creaminess to the wine and enhances its overall complexity. In fact, the Cortinie Bianco seems to have it all: a soft, appealing aroma, plenty of flavor, supreme balance, and style – the very attributes that make Italy's finest white wines the world's most appreciated and easy to understand. Simply put, the 2007 Cortinie Bianco is one eminently drinkable elixir that we found simply irresistible. If a wine could possess true sex appeal, the Cortinie Bianco would be considered a genuine femme fatale. Enjoy the Cortinie Bianco either moderately chilled (40° F) or at a more ambient temperature. We prefer to serve it cool rather than cold; much more of the flavor and nuance in the wine come through when the wine reaches 50º-55º F . . . but as you like it.

Accompaniments: The 2007 Zemmer Cortinie Bianco is one of those light, lovely, crowd-pleasing wines that often are served first at an elegant dinner party, the type of wine you wish the host or hostess would continue to serve – instead of the fat ugly Chardonnay they slip in after you have had a couple of glasses of much better wine in the vain hope that you won't notice or, worse, you'll stop drinking. Indeed, the 2007 Cortinie Bianco provides ample pleasure as is, without a morsel of food. Nevertheless, the Cortinie Bianco pairs easily with most seafoods and salads and adds elegance and panache to a wide variety of light, well-prepared dishes. Some of our favorite pairings with this wine include grilled shrimp, served with a light Dijon mustard and dill sauce; real lump crab mixed with chive cream and served over a Parmesan tuile; oysters sautéed in butter, cream, and fresh herbs; grilled trout with almonds; and a grilled cider braised chicken breast served over a bed of mixed organic greens. Cortinie Bianco also pairs well with fruit and cheese to provide an exemplary finale to a special meal. But no matter how you choose to serve the Cortinie Bianco, we suggest you invite that special someone over to enjoy it with you.

Pasanau Finca La Planeta Priorat 2004 – Spain

In little more than a decade, the Pasanau family and their beloved Priorat have achieved international fame. Priorat is currently Spain's most glamorous wine-producing region, fashioning a splendid array of sensational wines. And at the forefront of Priorat's viticultural renaissance and the accompanying critical acclaim for the region's wines is the Pasanau family.

Pasanau commands the high ground in Priorat, literally and figuratively. At over 2,400 feet, Pasanau's Finca La Planeta dominates Priorat's arid landscape. The vineyard is planted on gravelly scree and slate and is devoted almost entirely to Cabernet Sauvignon. Barely 12.5 acres in its entirety, La Planeta yields what many have described as one of the most complex and intense of all Priorat wines.

In addition to Finca La Planeta, the Pasanau estate also includes equally impressive parcels of ancient, ungrafted Garnacha and Mazuelo vines, which the family crafts into La Morera – a more traditional Priorat style of wine than La Planeta. And more recently, Pasanau has released Ceps Nous, a delicious light red Priorat that is comprised primarily of the estate's traditional Garnacha (Grenache) and Mazuelo, along with a healthy dollop of Merlot and Syrah from young vines. Small amounts of excellent Viognier are also crafted at this outstanding property.

Working out of a small modern bodega that was completed in 1995, Pasanau fashions three of Spain's most compelling wines. Here, grapes are routinely picked very late, often not until late October, in order to extract the greatest intensity from each low-yielding vine. All winery tanks are gravity fed, and racking and fining are done only during a full moon, using all natural ingredients – all of which says more than a little about Pasanau's commitment to excellence as well as its debt to tradition.

Tasting Notes: A stunning, seamless wine, the 2004 Pasanau Finca La Planeta pays tribute to the near-perfect growing conditions offered by the glorious 2004 vintage. Deeply colored, this wine appears at first glance to be a youthful Château Lafite, one of Bordeaux's greatest wines. Initially, La Planeta's glorious robe appears impenetrable and its packed aroma coquettish, yet hesitant to reveal without commitment the breadth of its inner beauty. However, a little time will more than reward the patient imbiber. La Planeta unfolds slowly, almost imperceptibly, until a seductive bouquet of black currants, coffee, graphite, and chocolate stream from the glass. On the palate, the 2004 La Planeta is full bodied but incredibly smooth and seductive. A suave flavor profile of black fruits and coffee, laced with subtle infusions of oriental spices, emerges from this textured, sophisticated wine. A delightful combination of Bordeaux hauteur and Spanish warmth, the 2004 Finca La Planeta combines lush, velvet fruit to an iron core. We suggest allowing this great Priorat plenty of breathing time before consuming. An hour or more in a decanter should do this layered, urbane wine justice. Enjoy!

Accompaniments: A complex sophisticated wine such as the 2004 Pasanau La Planeta calls for foods worthy of complementing world class wine. The finest cuts of meat, a complex sauce, or simple dish made from the very freshest ingredients are the hallmark of great food and wine pairings. Consequently, we recommend just such foods with the 2004 La Planeta, one of the finest wines this estate has ever turned out. Roast Leg of Tender Spring Lamb, Chateaubriand, and Loin Veal Chops served with shiitake mushrooms and an herb rice pilaf are just a few of our favorite dishes with Pasanau's La Planeta. Pan Roasted Duck Breast will do this wine justice as well. Roasted Quail, stuffed with apple-smoked bacon and mushrooms, served over a corn-based risotto, makes for another tasty suggestion. Yet, it is not so much what one serves with the La Planeta that matters as much as it is the quality of the ingredients used. Pasanau's wines are complex and sophisticated, yet tender and easy to pair with accompaniments befitting their stature.