Vol. 8 No. 3

Standard Selection - (1) White, (1) Red
La Puerta Torrontes 2004 - Argentina
Vasse Felix Shiraz 2002 - Australia

White Wines Only Featured Selection
Domaine Bachelier Chablis 2003 - France

Red Wines Only Featured Selection
Domaine de Vieux Chene Cotes du Rhone 2003 - France

La Puerta Torrontes 2004 – Argentina

La Puerta is the intriguing story of three Argentine compadres, who share a passion for polo as well as fine wine – not a bad combination if you can manage it. Together, these three teammates have created one of the newest and most popular wineries in Argentina. Beginning with their first plantation of noble varieties in 1994 until their third and most successful vintage in 2004, these three musketeers have not missed a step. Each successive effort has admirably eclipsed its predecessor, and that is no mean feat.

Enrique Liberman is the principal partner in Valle de la Puerta S.A. (the winery’s official name) and since its inception he has spared no expense in putting La Puerta on the wine world’s proverbial radar screen. He is joined by the brother of ex- president Menem and a fellow teammate in this state of the art venture that now boasts in excess of 750 acres. Presently, approximately 250 acres of this sprawling estate are devoted to premium grape varietals, while the rest of this property turns out some of Argentina’s finest olives and most succulent stone fruits, such as peaches and plums.

In Spanish, La Puerta is translated literally as the word for door, but in the case of Valle de la Puerta, this premier vineyard and winery serve both as the door and gateway to the to Andes Mountains, whose towering peaks rise well over 20,000 feet in front of the domain. Situated in the Famatina Valley, in the province of the La Rioja, La Puerta is far removed from the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires as well as Argentina’s more renowned wine producing region of Mendoza. Here the beautiful Sierra Famatina and Sierra Velazco Mountains branch off the Andes to form the Famatina Valley and its unique microclimate. And apart from contributing a magnificent visual backdrop to the property, the handsome snowcapped mountains that surround La Puerta contribute magnificent water from melting snows along with perfectly drained soils.

The outstanding soil of La Puerta has evolved from the glacial till that over millennia has washed from these mighty mountains. This constant action has raised the valley bed to nearly 3,500 feet above sea level, creating the ideal conditions for growing grapes. Moreover, La Puerta’s terroir (soil, climate, geographic situation, etc.) provides perfect ripening conditions for both red and white grapes. In Famatina the desert like conditions supply warm days and dry cold nights: whereby, there is little concern for mildew, rot, or insect infestations that routinely plague more humid winegrowing regions.

At La Puerta, Torrontes and Shiraz are the primary wines as well as the estate’s premier varietals. Torrontes, a white grape, is Argentina’s flagship white varietal and a grape that Argentina now calls its own. Like Zinfandel in California, Torrontes originated in Europe, but through time, cloning, and success unparalleled anywhere else, Argentina now rightly claims Torrontes as a specialty and its own unique wine. Shiraz, of course, is more readily associated with the south of France (as Syrah) or Australia, but in the last decade Shiraz has become one of the world’s most sought after red wines, and recent plantings in Argentina, Chile, South Africa, and elsewhere have been enormously successful. Viva Torrontes, Shiraz y La Puerta!

Tasting Notes: The 2004 La Puerta Torrontes sports a gorgeous pale gold robe. Nonetheless, it is the first sniff of this beautiful wine that truly assures the imbiber of what is to follow. Assuredly, the 2004 La Puerta Torrontes is no ordinary, homogenized, run of the mill white wine; it is a noble Argentine Torrontes. Extremely aromatic in the nose, with the scents of mineral, rose petal, oriental spice, and exotic fruit, one would expect sweetness to follow, but therein lies one of this wine’s secrets. It starts out fruity in the nose, but it ends up bone dry on the palate. And the longer this La Puerta breathes, (yes, it is not only red wines that benefit from a little aeration, many white wines do as well), the drier and more interesting the wine becomes. In fact, there is a whole lot going on in this wine, so fasten your gustatory seat belt and hang for the ride; you will be glad you did.

Accompaniments: The 2004 La Puerta Torrontes is no shy, self-effacing wallflower. It is an extroverted white wine that does fine on its own, but give it an audience and a host of accompaniments, and just count the ways it shines. We love Torrontes with simple, but very flavorful chicken or shrimp paella. We also recommend it with Asian stir-fries, even semi-hot Thai favorites like Gra Prao, or any ground chicken with basil and spicy pepper sauce combinations. Chinese take-out favorites like Moo Shoo, Hunan Chicken or Pork, or just a medley of Chinese vegetables in a garlic sauce, bring out the best in this wine. Sizzling chicken fajitas and more sophisticated Mexican favorites also pair nicely with the 2004 La Puerta Torrontes. This is one versatile wine, but given how much difficulty other more mundane white wines have pairing with spicy or otherwise imaginative fare, we heartily recommend the 2004 La Puerta Torrontes with flavorful foods. With that being said, we must confess that on occasion we also like to steal a few sips of this wine without food, just for the pure pleasure of it. Enjoy!

Recipe for White Wine

Chicken & Shrimp Paella

2 cups cooked chicken breast – cut-up 1 onion – thinly sliced
4 1/2 cups chicken broth 1 tsp. saffron
1/4 cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic - minced
2 cups white rice 2 red bell peppers – sliced thin
1 teaspoon paprika 1/2 tsp. oregano
5 raw shrimp – peeled & deveined 5 clams in their shell – scrubbed clean

In a large casserole, heat oil and onions over medium heat until onions are lightly browned. Add rice and stir until it is lightly browned. Add the chicken broth to the rice and the saffron. Stir well over medium heat. Add the garlic, red peppers, paprika and oregano. Top mixture with the chicken pieces, cover and bake in a 350-degree oven for 15-20 minutes. Top with shrimp and clams, over and steam casserole for 15 minutes longer. Serve immediately.

Vasse Felix Adams Road Shiraz 2002 – Australia

Vasse Felix is the oldest commercial vineyard and winery in Western Australia. Many critics also consider it to be the finest winery in the state. It produces award winning Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot among reds and a bevy of excellent whites, including Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Thanks to astute winemaking and an ideal terroir, Vasse Felix consistently fashions compelling wines, which have served to put Western Australia on the viticultural map and raise the eyebrows of the world’s true connoisseurs. At the same time, Vasse Felix has inspired others in Australia’s largest state to follow suit.

The name Vasse Felix is derived from the Latin word for luck (Felix) and the name of an early 19th century French sailor (Vasse) who died while exploring the section of the captivating coast of Western Australia we now know as the Margaret River. At first, the name may seem quite ironic, but to anyone who has ever caught a glimpse of this eye-popping place, pure good fortune and a perpetually smiling face are no exaggerations when speaking of this enchanted land. Therefore, to die in such a place is far more fortunate than never to have seen it.

Vasse Felix lies tucked among the folds of low hills of the Margaret River, a green temperate corner of Western Australia that sits beside the sea. Here the Margaret River cuts through wooded hills and steep ridges carpeted with wild flowers, before sighing almost inaudibly into the gleaming Indian Ocean. Crystalline waters and high rolling surf offer Australia’s finest surfing as well as its most compelling seascapes. These very same waters, along with steady ocean breezes, a unique soil, and a Mediterranean climate also make Margaret River one of the finest natural wine producing areas on earth and a great place to peacefully whittle away the time.

In the early1960’s, a scholar named John Gladstone was the first to recognize and publicize Margaret River’s special climate, soil, and conditions known as terroir. In a detailed account Gladstone wrote glowingly of the similarities between the finest wine producing regions of Bordeaux and Margaret River. Moreover, he extolled the perfect weather of Margaret River for the cultivation of the vine, especially for the traditional Bordeaux varietals. And, indeed, Gladstone’s proclamation has proven to be more than just wishful thinking, surpassing even his own expectations: In the past three decades the Margaret River has established itself as a world-class wine producing region for Shiraz and Chardonnay as well as the traditional Bordeaux varietals.

In 1967, just two years after Gladstone’s initial report on the soils and climate of the Margaret River, Dr. Tom Cullity planted vines at the present property and Vasse Felix came to life. Twenty years later, the estate was purchased by the Holmes à Court family. Today, Vasse Felix continues its pursuit of excellence under the leadership of Mrs. Janet Holmes à Court, who seems bent on taking this showcase property to the next level.

Fortunately or unfortunately, and that depends upon one’s perspective, Margaret River remains widely unknown to the average wine consumer in the United States. Presently, Margaret River produces less than 2% of Australia’s wine, despite extensive planting in the last three decades. Yet, the Margaret River garners a higher proportion of gold medals and trophies for its wines than any other viticultural region of Australia – a tribute to the Margaret River’s dedication to premium varietals, quality winemaking, and outstanding terroir.

Tasting Notes: An excellent example of the Margaret River style of Shiraz, the deeply colored 2002 Vasse Felix Adams Road displays an intense, seductive aroma of blackberry, plum, eucalyptus, pepper, and aniseed – all of which follow through on the palate. In addition, this purple potion offers up lavish quantities of ripe, textured fruit that are suitably underpinned by good acidity and a tight, balanced structure. Reminiscent of the great Syrah wines of France’s Rhône Valley, the 2002 Vasse Felix Adams Road also exhibits a nice touch of terroir in the form of mineral, slate, and subtle earth tones. All of this sensual pleasure culminates in a long dry finish that contains a judicious hint of oak, which contributes further to the wine’s overall character and dimension. All of this bodes well for the future development of the 2002 Adams Road Shiraz, but this latest offering from Janet Holmes à Court is so pleasurable now, it is doubtful that a single bottle will make it to full maturity. For optimal enjoyment, we suggest you allow this wine to breathe for at least thirty minutes before serving. And like most Shiraz, we advise serving it at cool room temperature (64°-68°) to suit most palates.

Accompaniments: Packed with flavor but beautifully balanced, the 2002 Vasse Felix Adams Road Shiraz can play host to all kinds of well prepared foods from simple vegetarian pleasures to the finest carnivorous fare. Filet mignon or beef tenderloin, served medium rare with grilled or sautéed portabella mushrooms, is one of our favorite choices with this wine. In this case, the wine and the beef truly complement each other, allowing for the full flavor of each to be released in tandem. Lamb, rabbit, venison, and rich stews provide other excellent choices with the Adams Road Shiraz. The more adventuresome among you may even want to try a kangaroo steak, one of Western Australia’s perennial favorites, with this wine. Homemade lasagna and either eggplant or zucchini parmigiana also make rewarding partners to this classically wrought Shiraz. Serving these Italian classics with a rich homemade marinara, containing plenty of fresh herbs, only adds to the pleasure. Lastly, several appreciative guests are great accompaniments to the 2002 Vasse Felix Shiraz as well. Enjoy!

For the Love of Cheese: Wine and cheese harbor a natural affinity for each other, but some wines seem more suited for individual cheeses than others. In our experience, Rhône style wines, especially those with a good dollop of Shiraz, nearly always seem to be enhanced by ripe soft and semi-hard cheeses. Not surprisingly, a firm highly flavored cheese like English Wensleydale offers ample evidence of the natural affinity the 2002 Vasse Felix Shiraz has for such cheeses. The creamy texture and full nutty flavors of Wensleydale accentuate the savory fruit of the wine, while complementing its structure. French Reblochon and Manchego from Spain account for two more equally noble partnerships. Curiously, Shiraz is also one of the easiest wines to pair with chocolate, especially dark truffles. For additional information on cheese and cheese pairings, consult www.cheesemonthclub.com. For more sinful chocolate delights, check out www.chocolatemonthclub.com and enjoy!

Recipe for Red Wine:

Lamb Stew

1 1/2 lbs. lamb or mutton – cubed 1 bay leaf
1 large onion – sliced 2 cups boiling water or stock
3 lbs. potatoes 3 Tbl. parsley - chopped
salt & pepper (to taste)

In a large stock pot, layer the potatoes, meat and onions. Make 2 layers of each ending with the potatoes. Season each layer with the salt and pepper. Add the boiling stock or water, bay leaf and parsley. Bring to a boil and then cover and simmer over low heat for 3 hours. Loosen bottom every once in a while so there is no sticking of meat or potatoes to the bottom of the pot.

Stew is done when all of the liquid is absorbed.

Domaine Bachelier Chablis 2003 – France

Domaine F. Bachelier is a very small estate that is set among the gently sloping hills of Maligny, which lies in the very heart of Chablis. Here, the Bachelier family makes classic, un-oaked Chablis that aptly reflects the true style of the Chablis appellation and the terroir of Maligny. Typically, this means a bright, shimmering greenish gold wine that embodies an ethereal fragrance; a mouthful of racy, flinty flavors; and a very crisp finish. However, in warmer vintages like 2003, the wines of Domaine Bachelier take on fleshy, corpulent characteristics that can best be described as plush and velvety, not to mention hedonistically delightful. But no matter the vintage, all of this fine estate’s wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel and bottled in the late spring after the vintage in order to preserve the greatest amount of pleasure in a glass.

In addition to producing excellent appellation Chablis, Domaine Bachelier also fashions tiny amounts of exquisite Premier Cru Chablis from the renowned vineyards of Fourchaume and Vaillons. All of the domaine’s wines emanate from the classic chalky, limestone soil that has made French Chablis, the only true Chablis, famous.

Tasting Notes: Soft, succulent, and eminently drinkable, the 2003 Domaine Bachelier Chablis embodies all the attributes that have made Chardonnay the most popular white grape in the world. A light springtime scent of apple blossoms and the first fruits of a bountiful land greet the nose. Soon afterwards, plush decadent Chardonnay fruit coats the palate and begs to be savored some more, even as it disappears down the thirsty gullet. French Chablis is typically a bit brisk and somewhat flinty on the finish, but the Domaine Bachelier will have none of that; it is easy and charming to the last sip, or gulp, as the case may be. We suggest you enjoy this ripe, delightfully atypical Chablis anywhere between 35°-55° F. Between those temperatures lies a multitude of pleasurable drinking. Enjoy!

Accompaniments: There is an unwritten rule that states that Chablis and seafood were made for one another, and the 2003 Domaine Bachelier Chablis will certainly do justice to the myriad of fruits of the sea that find their way to your table. However, given the soft, corporeal nature of the 2003 vintage, the 2003 Domaine Bachelier Chablis provides attractive companionship to more than just seafood. In fact, this Bachelier offering is unique Chablis that can make chicken; turkey; and even game hens stand out. It also has the knack for pairing well with traditional spinach salads, including those with bacon, hard-boiled egg, cherry tomato, and mozzarella cheese. And a light poppy seed or natural bacon infused dressing will just add to that experience. Soft and semi-soft cheeses provide other wonderful opportunities to enhance the pleasure of this Chablis, but given the forward charm and extraverted personality of the 2003 Bachelier Chablis, it truly needs no accompaniment to carry its welcome with it. Undoubtedly, the 2003 Domaine Bachelier Chablis constitutes the aperitif par excellent, as it nobly can and does shine on its own. Salut!

Domaine du Vieux Chêne Haie aux Grives Côtes-du-Rhône 2003 – France

Domaine du Vieux Chêne is the quintessential Provencal estate, which means a true family affair. Jean-Claude and Béatrice Bouche are the formidable husband and wife team behind this very well run domaine that is located in the village of Camaret. Intriguingly, Camaret lies in the heart and soul of the Vaucluse, Provence’s most beloved core. In fact, the great early 20th century French writer Marcel Pagnol set Camaret as the home of Jean and Florette, two of his more famous Provencal characters, from the novel and subsequent film Jean de Florette.

Begun in 1978, Domaine du Vieux Chêne has emerged as a leader in the production of pure, naturally made Côtes-du-Rhône wines. For more than a decade, Vieux Chêne has been a certified organic producer, which means no chemical herbicides, pesticides, or fertilizers are ever used at this estate. In addition, the use of sulfites is strictly limited. The result is an enviable selection of individual Côtes-du-Rhône cuvées that highlight the appellation’s two most important red varietals: Grenache and Syrah. Consequently, Vieux Chêne’s Cuvée des Capucines is comprised exclusively of Grenache, while the fuller Haie aux Grieves offers up additional flavor and depth due the artful blending of a sizeable percentage of Syrah into the Grenache blend. Vieux Chêne also fashions an excellent 100% Syrah Côtes-du-Rhône under the Cuvée Béatrice label.

Vieux Chêne, like most serious Provencal wineries, also produces a first rate rosé and small quantities of a superb, proprietary labeled Vin de Pays from Grenache and Syrah called Cuvée Friande. One can find a first rate Merlot here as well, which leads us to wonder if this energetic couple ever has time to sleep, especially since harvesting and nearly every thing else at this property is done the old-fashioned way – by hand. Vive la Différence!

Tasting Notes: What makes the 2003Domaine du Vieux Chêne Haie aux Grives Côtes-du-Rhône so attractive is its ability to win friends and influence people, without ever having to call undue attention to itself. Medium-bodied and pure to the marrow, this charming wine provides a lightly fragrant nose and plenty of flavor and mouth feel in the guise of uncomplicated black fruit, subtle spice, and a velvet finish. Due to the natural methods of viticulture and production that are scrupulously practiced at Domaine du Vieux Chêne, the hallmarks of Haie aux Grives are subtle charm, purity of flavor, and a natural, clean, uncomplicated finish. In the words of one taster: “What more could you want?” Better still, perhaps, is what you won’t get in this wine: massive tannin, staggering levels of oak and alcohol, or acid balancing. We suggest serving the lovely 2003 Domaine du Vieux Chêne Haie aux Grives at cool room temperature or even slightly chilled (55°-65° F), after some 15-20 minutes of aeration.

Accompaniments: Whether you refer to it as good old-fashioned country cooking, down home fare, or just the way mama used to make, unpretentious cuisine is the way to go with the 2003 Domaine du Vieux Chêne Haie aux Grives Côtes-du-Rhône. In fact, one of our all time favorite foods with this wine is pizza, but not just any ordinary pizza. Perhaps, the best-kept secret of Provence is that it, rather than Italy, bears the distinction of being the ancestral home of pizza; while the region’s second best secret is just how good Provencal pizzas are. The Provencal versions of the world’s most popular food are what we commonly refer to as gourmet pizza. Consequently, some of our favorite accompaniments to the Haie aux Grives are a three-cheese and black olive pizza; a chicken and mushroom pizza, with red onion, peppers, and Provencal herbs; and any number of vegetable pizzas with eggplant, zucchini, or artichoke. Light meats, pasta and almost anything served with fresh tomato sauce, including fish, also provide savory pairings in the company of the 2003 Haie aux Grives. Enjoy!

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