Vol. 4 No. 12
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Villa Giada “La Quercia” Barbera d’Asti Superiore 1997 - Italy
Chandon Brut Fresco - Argentina
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
La Marcellins Chenas 2000 - France
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2000 – New Zealand
Villa Giada “La Quercia” Barbera d’Asti Superiore 1997 - Italy
The Azienda Agricole Villa Giada brings wines to your table with over two centuries of intense and careful work in expert vineyard management. Located midway between Asti and Alba, the world’s two greatest zones for the production of Barbera , Villa Giada specializes in the production of Barbera from single vineyards sites. With more than 45 acres of estate vineyards around three ancient farmhouses, the estate’s aim is to produce great wine from each individual vineyard or terroir.
The historical unit of Villa Giada dates back to 1790 and is still in use today. This old part of the winery hosts all the barriques (small oak barrels) for the refining of the estate’s great Barberas: Barbera “Bricco Dani” and Barbera “La Quercia”. Since the 1980s, Villa Giada also sports a modern cellar, featuring customized stainless steel vats with controlled temperature and pressure, along with many other oenological and technical pieces of equipment. Moreover, Donato Lanati, a very well known oenologist and professor at Turin and Florence universities, assists owner/winemaker Andrea Faccio in the cellar, researching and developing the optimum use of modern technology for each individual wine, without compromising the traditional character of the single vineyard.
In addition to the estate’s flagship Barberas, Villa Giada also turns out small quantities of fine still whites from native varietals and a lovely, traditional frizzante Moscato d’Asti.
The Piedmont
In the north of Italy, nestled beneath the great alpine wall of mountains and the gleaming Mediterranean Sea, lies the Piedmont. It is the region of Italy closest to France in proximity, as well as in the quality and variety of its exceptional wines. For centuries, the Piedmont has been renowned for its robust, exquisitely prepared cuisine, but today it is Piedmontese wines: robust reds, still elegant whites and naturally sweet muscats that command the most attention.
Certainly, Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara are the most celebrated red wine names of the Piedmont; yet, it is the region’s hearty, mouth filling Barbera that captures the hearts and palates of the Piedmontese themselves. By combining traditional practices, such as long vatting times, with the use of modern equipment and small oak barrel aging, Barbera has claimed its rightful place among the great red wines of the Piedmont. Like the noble Nebbiolo vine of Barolo fame, Barbera is a native Piedmontese varietal and presently the region’s most popular red variety. And, in addition to its great Barbera and Nebbiolo, the Piedmont produces a host of other fine reds, including Dolcetto, Freisa, Grignalino and Brachetto. No other Italian viticultural region offers such a wide variety of fine, distinctively styled reds as the Piedmont.
As if the coterie of great red wines produced in the Piedmont were not enough to insure its place atop Italy’s viticultural hierarchy, this oenological bastion shines with white wines, too.
Not surprisingly, the Piedmont counts more DOC-DOCG zones (bonafide wine areas making many distinct types of wine) than any other region of Italy. Yet, the Piedmont often ranks seventh or eighth or even less in total production, underscoring the areas dedication to quality rather than quantity. Burton Anderson, acknowledged widely to be the world’s foremost authority on Italian wines, sums up the greatness of the Piedmont when he says:
For craftsmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their historical habitat, the Piedmontese have no rivals in Italy.
Tasting Notes: A gentle waft of woodlands, mingled with roses, violets, bark and dew covered brush rise from the 1997 Villa Giada “La Quercia”. Richly robed, but hardly foreboding, this single vineyard offering captures the charm as well as the power of Barbera. Textured fruit covers a masculine core of alcohol, tannin and an inexplicable strength of character that emanates from the very center of this wine. Slightly rustic yet gracious and polite, the Villa Giada “La Quercia” is a joy to drink. It requires no muss nor fuss. No need to decant this wine hours ahead; it’s at the perfect age for a fine single vineyard Barbera (four years). Simply open the wine, pour it in the glass, let the wine breathe for ten or fifteen minutes, swirl and sip. Serve this delightful wine at cool, cellar temperature (55-60°F).
Accompaniments: Bow tie pasta with artichoke, feta and fresh blood red cherry tomatoes or penne with white beans, red onion, celery and fresh garden herbs are just a couple of the traditional Old World dishes we have enjoyed with the 1997 Villa Giada “La Quercia”! Grilled sausage, pork barbecue, cassoulet and country stews are other good choices with the Villa Giada, too. A three-cheese pizza, calzone or even a plate full of hard Italian cheeses marinated olives and thinly sliced pepperoni provide other winning combinations with this Barbera. If you wish to accentuate the charm rather than the power of this wine, try “La Quercia” with risotto, the most traditional of Piedmontese dishes, and see why Barbera is the most appreciated grape in the Piedmont. Its versatility is born in its charm as well as its structure, so serve this delightful Barbera as you like it!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Beef Risotto Milanese
2 lbs. beef bones (ribs) cut into 2” pieces
3 ½ cups beef broth
2 cups water
2 Tbl. olive oil
2 cloves garlic – minced
1 yellow onion - chopped
2 cups Arborio rice
salt &pepper to taste
¼ cup half & half
½ cup wine
Bring the beef stock, water and wine to a gentle simmer in a large pot. Brown the beef bones in olive oil, onions and garlic. Remove bones and take off meat, and return meat to oil, onions and garlic. Add rice and cook for one minute over medium heat. Slowly add the warm stock, one ladle at a time to the rice. As each ladle of broth is absorbed, add another. Cook for 20-30 minutes until all stock has been used. Stir in half & half, salt and pepper.
Chandon Brut Fresco - Argentina
Chandon Brut Fresco is the newest creation from the world’s leading producer of world class Champagne’s and sparkling wines, Moet & Chandon and its progeny Chandon. Originating in France’s Champagne district, Moet & Chandon traces the traditions of a single family who, for more than 250 years has been forging the fine reputation as France’s leading Champagne producer (Dom Perignon Champagne, the world’s most renowned Champagne, is part of this group). Today, this great tradition continues with five other prestigious wineries with prime vineyard locations around the world: Bodegas Chandon in Argentina, Domaine Chandon in Australia and California, Chandon de Brazil, and Masia Chandon in Spain.
In 1960, Chandon established a presence in the premier Argentinean wine making region of Mendoza with Bodegas Chandon. Over the years, a reputation for producing exceptional sparkling wines has been carefully cultivated by matching grape varieties to the terroir or soil and growing conditions. Chandon Brut Fresco traces its unique heritage to the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Argentina, where plantings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Semillon varietals enjoy optimal growth conditions for the perfect ripening of the fruit. The winery is state-of-the-art and is directed by Chandon’s international winemaking team, including many experts from Champagne.
For Chandon Brut Fresco, the two traditional Champagne varietals, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, along with small quantities of Semillon (of Bordeaux fame) come from vineyards located high in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. The exceptional soil, irrigated by the purest water from melted snow pack, and the near permanent sunshine produce grapes of exquisite character and health. These vineyards are located at altitudes ranging from 3,500 – 4,600 feet up sea level, making then some of the highest in the world. Under these healthful conditions very little pest control or spraying is ever needed. Given such advantageous conditions and over 150 years of viticulture history in Mendoza, Chandon is able to select only the finest grapes for Chandon Brut Fresco.
True to its Champagne origin, Chandon produces Brut Fresco by the painstaking “methode traditionnelle” or Champagne method as it is known in the Champagne region of France. This is the most expensive and time-consuming process of sparkling wine production in which the wine is fermented in its actual bottle. This labor intensive method requires at least a year to complete properly, although many great sparkling wines may see many years of aging in the bottle before release.
Tasting Notes: Chandon Brut Fresco combines Champagne quality with a fun, fruit-driven style. This is a golden-hued sparkling wine with a hint of copper. Its fine, persistent bubble, crisp fresh flavors of strawberry, apricot and citrus complement this amazing sparkler’s more supple, creamy side, adding both texture and definition. Excellent bread-yeast tones and hints of caramel and toast provide clean, complex flavors that linger happily on the palate. Moreover, this delightful wine has a delicate, harmonious structure and low acidity, providing a perfect balance of freshness and softness. It is no wonder that the Washington Post dubbed the Chandon Brut Fresco the “party wine of the year” and the Quarterly Review of Wines called it “one of the best sparkling wines of the year.” Kudos to Chandon for this exceptional “methode traditionelle” that combines the best attributes of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Semillon into the ultimate crowd pleaser. Serve Chandon Brut Fresco moderately chilled.
Accompaniments: A very versatile sparkling wine, Chandon Brut Fresco pairs well with most light fare as well as heavier fried classics. Chandon chef Robert Curry suggests his wine be served with East West cuisine – all types of sushi or even fried dumplings with a soy glaze. We also suggest a lightly fried calamari, fritto misto or potato gnocchi pasta with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. However, a Sunday brunch, resplendent with fresh fruits, omelets and soufflés is one of our favorite accompaniments to the Brut Fresco. Moreover, a party, festival or feast provides the ultimate setting for the delicious creamy flavors of the Chandon Brut Fresco, even if it is only a party of two partaking. Enjoy the Chandon Brut Fresco with someone special and make everyday an occasion. What a way to ring in the New Year. Salut!
Recipe for White Wine
Calamari in Umido
1-2 pounds squid – cut into ½” rings
1/3-cup olives – pitted
1 can drained Italian tomatoes
2 cloves garlic - minced
1 cup olive oil
2 Tbl. parsley - minced
salt & pepper
Heat oil in a large fry pan with garlic and parsley. Sauté over medium heat until garlic begins to brown. Chop tomatoes into course pieces. Turn oil to medium-high and add squid constantly stirring for 2-3 minutes. Add tomatoes, salt, pepper and olives. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
La Marcellins Chenas 2000 - France
Les Marcellins was established as a premium negociant by the renowned Grand Cru Growers of Morgan, Marcel Lapierre and his nephew, Christophe Pacalet. Together they select a small number of growers and vineyard sights at the beginning of each growing season, mandating biodynamic (natural farming) principles and controlling all aspects of the “elevage” of the grapes.
In the production of the wine, the same natural approach is espoused. Les Marcellins permits only the barest minimum use of SO², employs barrel fermentation and aging, and uses no fining or filtration in its wines. The end result is an array of classic Cru Beaujolais. The Chenas we offer you hails from a single five-acre vineyard, whose vines are nearly 50 years old. Grown on a vein of rich sandstone with a southeast exposure, the Les Marcellins Chenas offers all of the vibrant fruit and solid underpinning for which the great Chenas appellation is renowned.
Tasting Notes: A bright cherry, strawberry-tinged robe foreshadows the gorgeous fruit and hedonistic bent of the 2000 Les Marcellins Chenas. Ripe and lush, without ever appearing sweet, this lovely Chenas embodies the essence of Grand Cru Beaujolais. This is a wine that is both fun and fulfilling, offering copious quantities of black cherry fruit along with its ample structure. The 200 Les Marcellins Chenas is one of those rare red wines that can be readily consumed without the slightest fanfare or layed down to gain strength and vigor, emerging in several years to resemble a Burgundy more than a Beaujolais. Enjoy this lovely wine about 60° F. Pop the cork and serve it immediately or let it breathe a while; both scenarios have their adherents, so why not try it both ways?
Accompaniments: Stews, ham, and cheese platters, which include a variety of creamy, soft, high quality cheeses comprise some of the best accompaniments we know to the 2000 Les Marcellins Chenas. We also suggest turkey, complete with all of the trimmings, and of course Coq au Vin and the ubiquitous Boeuf Bourguignon. Other traditional Burgundian dishes also fare well with the Les Marcellins. Most other meat dishes and pastas, with the exception of those drenched in a acidic tomato marinara, will also provide excellent partners for this Chenas, so enjoy!
Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2000 – New Zealand
One hundred and fifty years ago Adam Jackson grew bountiful crops of wheat, oats and barley on the rich river silt soils of Marlborough’s Wairau Plain. Today, his great-grandson, John Stichbury produces some of New Zealand’s most lauded wines on that same block of land.
A lofty gum tree which once provided welcome shade for Adam Jackson and his team of horses to rest from tilling the soil now overlooks row upon row of vineyard. Its timeless silhouette against a clear sky has become an emblem of the family’s long link with the land, and appears on the estate’s wine label.
Fired by the same enjoyment of adventure and challenge that prompted New Zealand’s early settlers to leave home and hearth for a new life in the colonies, John Stichbury, and gentlemen farmers ventured into the noble endeavor of grape growing. Tempering his innovative spirit with practical wisdom gained in years of growing agricultural crops, Stichbury planted his first grapevines in 1988 and never looked back.
Experience and inspiration has proved a winning mix for John, whose Jackson Estate wines have gone on to consistently win many medals both in New Zealand and abroad. And more importantly, Jackson Estate’s reputation for consistent quality and full-of-fruit flavor means the bottles seldom spend long on the shop shelf. In fact, we had a little difficulty procuring enough of this wine.
Tasting Notes: The 2000 Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc exhibits an intense bouquet and flavor of tropical pineapple, fresh mown grass, gooseberry and ripe melon. Traces of spicy lychee also emerge after a few minutes open. Reminiscent of a good French Sancerre or Pouilly Fume, the Jackson Estate is balanced by a crisp acidity, which never allows the wine’s fruit and full, racy flavors to get out of hand. In short, the 2000 Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc is a distinctive and consistently delicious Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – a wine that epitomizes the unique character of the region. Enjoying near cult status for its expressive, personality-filled wines, it’s easy to see why this estate was awarded “classic wine” status in New Zealand for its work with Sauvignon Blanc. Serve moderately chilled.
Accompaniments: Certainly, a plate full of steamed New Zealand mussels is the first accompaniment that comes to mind in the presence of the 2000 Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc. Just the mere thought of these tiny bivalves in the presence of the Jackson Estate is enough to cause several members of our tasting panel to salivate. Well prepared Low Country dishes also provide other memorable pairings. A traditional Charleston Shrimp with Grits is another award-winning combination with this wine. The Jackson Estate holds up beautifully to the tasso cream sauce in the Shrimp and Grits and highlights the myriad of flavors in this grand old recipe. Most fish, light pastas and even sausage dishes will also provide rewarding accompaniments to this Sauvignon Blanc, so enjoy!
Terms of the Vine
FLINTY: A descriptor for extremely dry white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, whose bouquet is reminiscent of flint struck against steel.
HAZY: Used to describe a wine that has small amounts of visible matter. A good quality if a wine is unfined and unfiltered.
IMPERIAL: An oversized bottle holding 4 to 6 liters; the equivalent of eight standard bottles.
JEROBOAM: An oversized bottle holding the equivalent of six bottles. In Champagne, a jeroboam holds four bottles.
LATE HARVEST: On labels, indicates that a wine was made from grapes picked later than normal and at a higher sugar (Brix) level than normal. Usually associated with botrytized and dessert-style wines.
LEES: Sediment remaining in a barrel or tank during and after fermentation. Often used as in sur lie aging, which indicates a wine is aged "on its lees."
LIMOUSIN: A type of oak cask from Limoges, France.
MACERATION: During fermentation, the steeping of the grape skins and solids in the wine, where alcohol acts as a solvent to extract color, tannin and aroma from the skins.
METHODE CHAMPENOISE: The labor-intensive and costly process whereby wine undergoes a secondary fermentation inside the bottle, creating bubbles. All Champagne and most high-quality sparkling wine is made by this process.
MURKY: More than deeply colored; lacking brightness, turbid and sometimes a bit swampy. Mainly a fault of red wines.
PRODUCED AND BOTTLED BY: Indicates that the winery crushed, fermented and bottled at least 75 percent of the wine in the bottle.
STEMMY: Wines fermented too long with the grape stems may develop this quality: an unpleasant and often dominant stemmy aroma and green astringency.
TARTRATES: Harmless crystals of potassium bitartrate that may form in cask or bottle (often on the cork) from the tartaric acid naturally present in wine.
VEGETAL: Some wines contain elements in their smell and taste which are reminiscent of plants and vegetables. In Cabernet Sauvignon a small amount of this vegetal quality is said to be part of varietal character. But when the vegetal element takes over, or when it shows up in wines in which it does not belong, those wines are considered flawed. Wine scientists have been able to identify the chemical constituent that makes wines smell like asparagus and bell peppers.
VOLATILE (or Volatile Acidity): Describes an excessive and undesirable amount of acidity, which gives a wine a slightly sour, vinegary edge. At very low levels (0.1 percent), it is largely undetectable; at higher levels it is considered a major defect.
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