Vol. 3 No. 3
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
1997 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Zinfandel - California
1998 Dry Creek Vineyard Fume Blanc - California
Murphy-Goode:
A Tried and True Recipe for Success
We have become so enamored of the delicious wines of the Murphy-Goode Estate that we are proud to present another one of this first estate’s award-winning, personality-filled wines, Liar’s Dice Zinfandel as a wine of the month selection. Conceived over twenty years of breakfasts and "liar’s dice" games at Mickey’s Café in Sonoma County, partner Time Murphy and his circle of friends are some of the finest Zinfandel growers in Sonoma County and are, of course, the fruit source for the "Liar’s Dice Zinfandel".
Rarely, do we feature a winery or estate more than once, but this is what happens when an estate teams a creative marketer with two accomplished grape growers and carefully blends with superior vineyards located in one of the world’s renowned wine-growing regions, Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. Add enthusiastic family members and a brilliant winemaker. Infuse the lot with dedication, a strong work ethic and a liberal dose of good humor: this is the tried and true recipe for Murphy-Goode Estate Winery, and we love it.
Tim Murphy, owner/farmer of the 200-acre Murphy Ranch, and Dale Goode, former vineyard manager for Alexander Valley Vineyards and Hoot Owl Creek Vineyards, are longtime friends and colleagues. Known as pioneers in Sonoma County viticulture, both men planted some of the first premium variety vineyards in the area during the 1960's. Tim and Dale share a passion for farming, and they take enormous pride in their work. The two men along with Tim’s three sons, became business partners in 1980 when they leased a vineyard in the central portion of Alexander Valley. Subsequently, the dynamic two teamed up with wine marketer Dave Ready in 1985 to form a family-owned winery in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. "Dave provided the dynamic component and expertise we lacked," Says Tim.
"From the beginning, the three of us shared a singular mission: to produce an excellent product which reflects the superior quality of our grapes," Tim recalls. The Murphy-Goode brand was born in 1985, when the partners hired Merry Edwards, a consulting enologist, to oversee their custom crush project of 10,000 cases. The premier vintage was an immediate success.
In 1987, a small production facility was built on Murphy Ranch in Alexander Valley. Winemaker Christina Benz was hired in time to equip the winery and receive the 1987 harvest. "My initial attraction to Murphy-Goode Winery was the delicious flavors of the grapes and the beautifully kept estate vineyards, "Chris recalls. "The vineyards, like a well-manicured garden, were maintained with obvious care and attention to detail.
Today, Murphy-Goode Estate Winery has grown well beyond initial projections. Current annual production tops 90,000 cases. The employees are family, both literally and figuratively: Dave Ready’s son works alongside Chris Benz in the cellar; Dale Goode’s daughter is on the hospitality staff; Tim Murphy’s three sons continue to manage the estate’s vines, while cultivating their own vineyards.
Obviously, Murphy-Goode’s assembly of partners, family members, and dedicated employees significantly factor in on the winery’s success. However, environmentally sound farming and incomparable grapes are also paramount to Murphy-Goode’s quality. Their estate vines grow on three Alexander Valley sites, while neighboring vineyards also provide excellent sources to meet the continuing demand for Murphy-Goode wines.
Presently, the winery produces a host of award-winning wines in addition to Liar’s Dice Zinfandel. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Fume Blanc (dry Sauvignon Blanc) and an incomparable Pinot Blanc round out this great estate’s portfolio of fine wine.
Zinfandel: America’s Own Grape
Zinfandel is nothing short of America’s own wine grape. Yet, it is also as much a state of mind as it is a specific grape variety. It is often referred to simply as "Zin" by its adherents and has over the last 100 years become the most popular and widely planted red wine grape in America. However, nearly all Zinfandel, and certainly the best of it, presently comes from California.
Despite its popularity and proliferation in America, the origins of Zinfandel remain obscure. Legend has it that Colonel Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian immigrant to California and father of the European tradition of winemaking in America, brought the Zinfandel grape with him on his journey to the New World, around 1850. This popular belief has yet to be proved or disproved, though modern researchers are certain the Colonel experimented widely with this grape. They also cite convincing evidence that the Primitivo grape, grown in isolated areas of Italy, Hungary, and Yugoslavia, is indeed a forebear of our Zinfandel. Nevertheless, in spite of an apparent European connection, some evidence points to Zinfandel being known to Colonial Americans living in the East where it was believed to be a native American grape varietal. What happened to those vines presents another enigma, as does what transformation, hybridization and experimentation were done by generations of Americans to arrive at what we now call Zinfandel. Hopefully, present DNA testing will solve this mystery.
Zinfandel is one of California’s most successful red grape varietals; it produces a fine myriad of styles, with each attracting its own adherents. Such quality and success cannot be claimed by the Primitivo or other possible forebearers. Regrettably, Zinfandel was used for many years solely for blending, but as Americans have come to discover good table wine and appreciate full-flavored individual wines, Zinfandel has increasingly been made as a varietal to stand on its own high merit.
Tasting Notes: Wow! What a wine! How do you describe this flamboyant, decadent, absolutely delicious Zinfandel? Those were our first, second and third reactions to the positively scrumptious, 1997 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Zinfandel. Rose petal, raspberry-scented woodlands and juicy fruit form the attack of this pure, richly fruity, but not sweet Zinfandel, a wine that seems to hit all the palate pleasing spots on our taster’s tongues. This is one wine our tasting panel never even had to vote on; the consensus was unanimous, the 1997 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Zinfandel is fantastic. It has a certain "je ne sais quoi." In other words, its hard to describe this wine. Just taste it. Winemaker, Christina Benz, has once again shown that beguiling wines are the product of a meticulously tended vineyard and a light hand on the superb raw materials that comprise this hedonistic Zinfandel. Oh baby, give me more, give me more! And we ain’t lying.
Accompaniments: Whether you prefer to light-up the grill or heat up the oven, there are more than a few winning food accompaniments to the 1997 Liar’s Dice Zinfandel. A nice big pot of fresh grilled sausage and peppers wins first place among several of our tasters. Pasta, poultry, red meats and high-flavored vegetarian dishes also make excellent pairings with this hedonistic Zinfandel. Grilled vegetables, lightly brushed with a fine balsamic vinegar, are another big hit, In our experience, most traditional southern Italian dishes, especially those containing tomato-based sauces, marry extremely well with Murphy-Goode’s bold, plush-style of Zinfandel. Whereby most wines ten to clash with the natural acidity in tomato sauce, or at the very least, accentuate it, the Liar’s Dice Zin complements it. A platter of soft, ripe cheeses and fresh fruit is yet another fine way to while away an evening with Murphy-Goode’s delicious and highly versatile Zinfandel. You may even want to try a glass all by itself.
Recipe for Red Wine:
Grilled Sausage with Peppers
2 lbs. sweet Italian sausage
2 green bell peppers-sliced
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 red bell peppers – sliced
1 large sweet onion – sliced
1 yellow bell pepper - sliced
Grill sausage links over low heat for 20 minutes or until cooked through. You may also pan fry them if you like but they will be greasier. While the sausage are cooking, over medium heat, in a large skillet or wok, sauté the oil, onions and peppers until they become soft and slightly browned.
Remove sausage from heat and cut into 1" pieces and add to the peppers and onions. Cook together for 15 minutes so flavors blend. Serve with slices of lemon and enjoy!
Quote for Red Wine:
" Good grape farming does not stop at the crusher. It really is a lot more fun to follow the entire life cycle from the vine to the final product in the bottle."
----Tim Murphy
Dry Creek Valley Pioneer:
David Stare
A dramatic wave of change occurred in 1972 when David S. Stare opened the doors of Dry Creek Vineyard, the first new winery to be built in Dry Creek Valley since Prohibition. Guided by a new vision for this long neglected grape growing region, his initiative launched a whole new era of premium wine production.
Dry Creek Vineyard’s leadership role under Stare has inspired many important changes for Sonoma County. Sonoma County’s first Fume Blanc was created there. New standards of quality resulted from the winery’s advocacy for Bordeaux style blending, as opposed to the use of only a single grape varietal, then in vogue. And, perhaps most importantly, appellation status for the entire Dry Creek Valley originated at Stare’s winery, no mean feat for a young MIT graduate who decided in 1971 to chuck his secure, but unfulfilling career as a civil engineer and move to California. Unlikely as it may seem, Stare, a Bostonian, became the Dry Creek Valley Pioneer.
Beginning in 1972 with a single parcel of land, a run-down prune orchard on Dry Creek Road, David Stare planted his first forty acres of grapes. Putting in mainly Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, Stare was laughed at for his folly. The locals thought he was nuts and one farm advisor is reputed to have uttered, "Sauvignon Blanc will never grow successfully in Dry Creek Valley." Today, Fume Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc) is the flagship wine of Dry Creek Vineyard. The winery‘s Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay also rank in the top echelon of California wines. So much for the naysayers, and so called experts.
Stare’s original production goal for Dry Creek Vineyards was 20,000 cases, a rather ambitious undertaking in its day. Today, Dry Creek Vineyards produces nearly 120,000 cases of premium wines with the able assistance of winemakers, Larry Levin and Jeff McBride, Vineyard Manager, David Bevill and David’s daughter, Kim, and son-in-law Don Wallace. The latter constitute the marketing personnel.
Aside from his personal accomplishments at Dry Creek Vineyards, Stare has been a leader and advocate for Sonoma County wines. He has left his pioneering spirit and entrepreneurial mark on a number of important organizations. Certainly, his ability to obtain BATF approval for the creation of Dry Creek Valley as an American Viticultural Area, or Appellation, in 1983 was in itself remarkable, but David has also helped found an important regional organization for area growers called Wine growers of Dry Creek Valley, an organization that now counts at least 110 members. He was also a founding member and past president of the Sonoma County Wineries Association, one of California’s most important advocates for quality wine production and promotion. Stare is also credited with the development of Winery Associates, a consortium of premium wineries that have joined together to joint-market their wines. This has proven to be one of the most successful marketing groups in California. Winery Associates presently counts five Sonoma County wineries, Alexander Valley Vineyard, Dry Creek Vineyards, Murphy-Goode, Pedroncelli and Quivira. Flora Springs in Napa Valley is also a member client. Together they constitute a formidable group of quality wineries, devoted to outstanding quality at affordable prices. How we wish more California wineries would emulate the quality of wines and intelligent marketing strategies of this group.
As if David Stare’s resume would be incomplete without it, he has also been an early supporter of the Meritage Society in California and a founding father of the Society of Blancs (SOB’s), an organization that extols and promotes the virtues of the noble Sauvignon Blanc varietal in California. Many thanks to Stare for his indefatigable efforts on behalf of Dry Creek Valley, and premium California wines.
Sailing, Selling and Stare
Sailing has always captured the imagination and evoked the passion of adventuresome souls, so it should come as no surprise that David Stare’s other true passion is sailing. He is the skipper of a 35' Pearson sailboat, which serves as the icon and label-motif for Dry Creek Vineyard wines. "This is no gimmick," say those who know Stare. He is a serious sailor who participates in many sailing regattas around the world, at the same time he promotes his daunting array of wines in dozens of markets, including many foreign countries. In addition to the promotion and marketing that sailing affords the winery, it also reflects the true love and passion of the first family of Dry Creek Vineyard. In the words of Mary Jo Chrism, the winery’s Communications Director; "Sail boating, even for people who don’t have a boat or sail, gives a positive, serene feeling and that translates into Dave’s fun-loving and down to earth spirit and passion, and to the wines." It also exudes competence and direction, two commodities we often find lacking in many other wineries. Kudos to David Stare for staying the course.
Tasting Notes: Distinctively styled in the classic French Sancerre style, the 1998 Dry Creek Vineyard Fume Blanc is unquestionably the benchmark by which all other California Sauvignon Blancs are measured. Exhibiting the scents of freshly mown grass, herb, lemon grass and grapefruit, this delicious Sauvignon Blanc is beguiling in every way. Clean and fresh on the palate, it combines herb, fig and hints of gun smoke, along with a touch of cream and vanilla. Finishing with a wonderfully crisp aftertaste, it never abandons its rich flavor or full mouth-feel. Perfectly balanced and varietally intense, this Dry Creek Fume Blanc is nearly perfect in every way. It combines the highest attributes of stainless steel and oak barrel fermentation: rich, intense varietal flavors and perfect balance. Produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, this magnificent Sonoma County Fume Blanc was aged in both oak barrels and stainless steel. Not surprisingly, it has already won accolades from critics and garnered several gold medals in national competitions. Many renowned French Sancerre and Fume Blanc should take note of this outstanding Fume Blanc; it puts most of its overpriced French counterparts to shame. A votre sante!
Accompaniments: Oysters, shrimp, clams, scallops or lobster, or just about anything else with a shell on it that comes out of the sea, is a sure bet with the Dry Creek Fume Blanc. Herb-tinged chicken or full-flavored fish dishes are some other winning combos with this exquisite Sauvignon Blanc. Hors d’oeuvres, caviar, or subtle sipping provide several other complements to David Stare’s award-winning Sauvignon Blanc. Crusted cheeses and mild chevre also make fine accompaniments to this wine. In fact, the wine’s varietal flavors, unencumbered by massive oak ageing for the resulting vanilla and splintered wood flavors, provide a background to a lot of happy imbibing–with or without food.
Recipe for White Wine:
Sea Scallops Sautéed with Scallions
½ cup flour
½ tsp. coarse kosher salt
1 ½ lbs. Sea Scallops - halved
Freshly ground pepper - to taste
½ stick unsalted butter
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 small bunch of scallions
1/3 cup white wine
3 Tbl. flat leaf parsley
Chopped lemon wedges
On a plate, combine flour, salt and pepper. Dredge the scallops in it. In a large, skillet, heat the butter and oil and sauté the scallops until golden brown; just a few minutes.
Set browned scallops aside. Over medium heat, in skillet, sauté the scallions and place over scallops. Remove oil from skillet and add the wine to deglaze the pan and cook quickly until the wine reduces to ½. Pour warmed sauce over scallops and scallions and sprinkle with parsley and serve garnished with lemon wedges.
Quote for White Wine:
"Dry Creek is a small winery with high ideals, making old-fashioned dry wines...an unimpeachable source of dry, tasty whites."
----Hugh Johnson
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