Vol. 3 No. 12
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Chapel Hill Shiraz 1998 - Australia
Murphy-Goode Russian River Valley Pinot Blanc 1998 - California
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Domaine Durieu Cotes du Ventoux 1997 - France
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Poggio del Lupo Orvieto 1999 - Italy
Chapel Hill Shiraz 1998 - Australia
Chapel Hill: A True Boutique Winery
Chapel Hill is one of South Australia's "hottest" wineries. Located in the McLaren Vale, one of Australia's oldest wine growing regions, this pretty, boutique winery turns out small quantities of very fine wine, beginning with an outstanding Shiraz, a rich expressive wine that is strictly allocated. In addition, limited amounts of a masterful, barrel-fermented Reserve Chardonnay are produced, along with an interesting Verdelho and a rare, unwooded Chardonnay, which is often referred to as the Australian version of Chablis. Lastly, a very fine Cabernet Sauvignon rounds out the estate's portfolio.
Unlike most Australian wineries, which pump out massive quantities of many different wines, Chapel Hill prefers to limit both production and number of offerings in order to provide its growing list of customers something special. This dedication to limited, high-quality offerings is what makes Chapel Hill a boutique winery in the true sense. How we wish that more wineries, especially those that bill themselves as boutique producers, would adhere to this philosophy of producing small amounts of interesting and individual tasting wines, rather than pump out large quantities of homogenized, neutered look alikes.
Undoubtedly, the driving force behind the success of Chapel Hill is the highly talented, individualist, Pam Dunsford. Ms. Dunsford is recognized as one of Australia's most gifted winemakers. She is also a most sought after consultant. Thoroughly dedicated to producing great wines and tenacious in her approach to excellence, Ms. Dunsford is a force to be reckoned with. She believes in making individual wines of style and flavor which reflect their vineyard origin.
Daring and pioneer initiative have always been Pam's strong suit; she was Australia's first female Roseworthy (Australia's prestigious school of oenology) graduate in winemaking twenty years ago. Since she took over the winemaking helm at Chapel Hill, the winery has been honored repeatedly in national and international shows and competitions. Aside from being a regular gold medal winner at Australian shows, Pam's wines have garnered gold at the prestigious London International Wine and Spirit Competition and the 1998 International Wine Challenge in London where thousands of wines from 30 countries are tasted.
After trying for nearly two years to obtain an allocation of the Chapel Hill Shiraz large enough to fulfill our club membership, we are delighted to be able to offer you Chapel Hill's 1998 McLaren Vale Shiraz as our red wine feature. We trust that you'll enjoy it as much as we do.
Tasting Notes: A deep purple potion with the scent of blackberry and current in the bouquet, the 1998 Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz is a hedonistic wine, waiting to be devoured. Lush, ripe and soft in the mouth, this Australian Shiraz is full of blackberry, cassis and spice flavors. Emanating from a twenty-two month hiatus in new French and American oak barrels, vanilla and a cachet of spices permeate the lusty rich fruit of this immensely pleasing Shiraz. Whether you open it and serve it immediately, decant it, or lay it down for a few years, you are in for a treat; this Chapel Hill Shiraz is made with good old-fashioned drinking pleasure in mind. Like most fine Australian examples of this varietal, you can consume it now in its youth or store it away for a few years to gain further complexity and subtle nuances of flavor. Although well-aged versions tend to lose their baby fat and some of their ripe fruit, they do gain complexity, intensity, and delineation. As you like it... Nevertheless, we bet that you simply won't be able to keep your hands off of this wine. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: A rare filet mignon or beef tenderloin with freshly sautéed portabella mushrooms are a splendid accompaniment to the 1998 Chapel Hill Shiraz; each brings out the full flavor of the other in complementary fashion. Venison or rabbit would also provide good complements to this young Shiraz. A slightly more aged Chapel Hill Shiraz would better suit a well-prepared rack of lamb, so you may want to wait another year on this pairing, but we bet you can't muster another discipline for that, so just put a couple of bottles aside for next year. In a meatless vein, we are very fond of zucchini parmigiana with the Chapel Hill. Cut thick and baked in a rich, homemade red sauce with plenty of fresh herbs all topped with mozzarella cheese, this dish adds new meaning to squash. It's also a great companion to a delightful red wine. Whatever you decide to serve with this wine, you need not worry about getting lost in the shuffle. Salut!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Venison Steak St. Hubert
4 steaks of venison (6-9 ounces each)
2 cups wine
3 shallots- coarsely chopped
3/4 cup cider vinegar
2 carrots, sliced
½ cup oil (olive)
2 cloves garlic minced
2 onions - chopped
pinch of thyme, pepper, cloves
2 bay leaves
Mix all ingredients together in a large glass bowl. Add the venison steaks, cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Turn meat several times while marinating. Remove steaks at reserve marinade. Dry the steaks and sauté in hot fat until brown and cooked thoroughly.
Quote for Red Wine:
"There is nothing like wine for conjuring up feelings of contentment and goodwill. It is less of a drink than an experience, an evocation, a spirit. It produces sensations that defy description."
----Thomas Conklin
Murphy-Goode Russian River Valley Pinot Blanc 1998
"Last Dance, Last Chance"
The International Wine of the Month Club prides ourselves on the variety of our international wine selections, as well as the quality and value that we consistently offer our members. Rarely, do we feature a winery more than once, and based upon the comments from you, our faithful clientele, we enjoy a reputation for our award winning selections that is unparalleled among clubs. With this in mind, we made the decision to feature yet another Murphy-Goode wine, knowing we may never have the opportunity again.
Regrettably, this will more than likely be the last chance any of us will have to enjoy the Murphy-Goode Pinot Blanc, a wine that critics have accurately labeled "one of California's greatest Pinot Blancs". Recently, the decision was made at Murphy-Goode, and not lightly, we have been told, to halt production of this uncommon varietal, which has achieved singular quality when grown in the gravelly soils bordering the Russian River.
Whether the winery will retain the rights to their prime Pinot Blanc vineyard or not we do not know, but as adults (we're all over 21 years of age), we realize that...Alas, all "goode" things must come to an end. At least we have had the opportunity and good fortune to say a proper goodbye, before moving onto new friends.
Murphy-Goode Winery is a unique partnership of three families. Two decades ago, long time Sonoma County grape grower, Tim Murphy, owner of the 200 acre Murphy Ranch and his good friend and neighbor, Dale Goode, former vineyard manager for Alexander Valley Vineyards, joined forces and families to found Murphy-Goode. Recognizing the need to intelligently market their wines, they invited marketing guru, Dave Ready, another old friend to join them. Today, all three families, sons and daughters and assorted others work side by side to produce some of California's most compelling wines.
Dedicated to producing wines of outstanding quality and incomparable value from environmentally friendly farming practices, Murphy-Goode winery has become the beacon on the hill. While many California wineries continue to struggle with consistency, as well as the contemporary penchant for greed (prices for many a mediocre California offering have doubled in recent years), Murphy-Goode has steadfastly resisted madness and false pride by continuing to maintain and improve quality and by steadfastly refusing to gouge consumers.
Obviously, Murphy-Goode's assembly of partners, family members and dedicated employees (Christina Benz is one of California's most talented winemakers) significantly figure in this winery's success. If ever there were a case for the old adage "wine is made in the vineyard", it could be made at Murphy-Goode, where incomparable grapes, grown naturally and tended meticulously, consistently find their way into the bottle unscathed.
Presently, Murphy-Goode produces a host of award winning white wines: Chardonnay, Fume Blanc (dry Sauvignon Blanc), Gewürztraminer, and for the moment, an incomparable Pinot Blanc. Among the red varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel carry the banner of this estate's success.
Tasting Notes: Barrel-fermented and aged like a fine Chardonnay, the 1998 Murphy-Goode Pinot Blanc exhibits a rich robe, a cachet of heavenly scents reminiscent of a spice box, and a bold, rich flavor that is infused with citrus and lemon zest. This is no wimpy, self-effacing white wine. In other words, don't serve it to Great-Grandma Dotty unless you want to do the old girl in...well, on second thought it might do the old girl some good, put a little pep back into the prig so to speak.. In any event, you've been forewarned. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Bold, rich flavors pose no threat to the 1998 Murphy-Goode Pinot Blanc. We have enjoyed everything from Alsatian style pork chops smothered in sage, sauerkraut, caraway seeds and beer to Hunan Chicken and Moo Shu Pork. Grilled, marinated vegetables or a creamy, garlic-laden Caesar salad also make for wonderful accompaniments to the Murphy-Goode Pinot Blanc. Shellfish, especially oysters and clams are other natural choices for this well-structured, delightfully tasty wine, redolent with the scent of an exotic bazaar.
Recipe for White Wine:
Alsatian Pork Chops
6 Pork chops (center cut, bone-in)
2 apples (peeled & sliced)
1 lb. sauerkraut
5 potatoes; quartered
1 cup beer
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large casserole dish lay pork chops flat and put apples slices on top of each chop. Put potatoes around pork chops so that they are also touching bottom of casserole. Drain ½ of the liquid out of sauerkraut and cover pork chops with sauerkraut. Cover entire casserole with aluminum foil and back 45 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking 15 minutes more.
White Wine Quote:
"Wine stimulates the appetite and enhances food. It promotes conversation and euphoria and can turn a mere meal into a memorable occasion"
----Derek Cooper
Domaine Durieu Cotes du Ventoux 1997 - France
Paul Durieu is a serious producer of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, expertly crafted Cotes-du-Rhone Villages and knockout Cotes du Ventoux. In addition, he is one of France's most revered Grand Prix race car drivers. Located in the busy, sun-seared village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Durieu maintains one of the deepest cellars in all of southern France. Eschewing both the light, modern Beaujolais-style of Rhone wine, as well as the heavy, oxidized, muscular style so popular forty years ago, Durieu seems more of a Contrarian, striking a successful balance between charm, flavor and power.
Domaine Durieu is planted with Rousanne and Grenache Blanc for the whites and the traditional Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Counoise for the reds. The domaine's vines average more than 40 years of age, with most of the Grenache coming from vines in excess of 80 years of age. A very large portion of this estate's vineyards once belonged to the Archbishops of Avignon, an area from Pred de Baud to Bois Lauzon, between Carbrieres and Farguerol. These vineyards reflect the classic soil of the Rhone's best "terroir" - rolled pebbles and large, flat stones known as galets. All of Domaine Durieu's vineyards are hand harvested. Domaine Durieu's vinification is in the classic style. Crushing is followed by a long fermentation of 15-21 days, while aging is done in large traditional oak casks called "foudres" for a year or more. In short, this is the "real McCoy" of the Rhone.
Tasting Notes: The amplifying scent of black fruits and crushed peppercorns form the initial impression of the 1997 Domaine Durieu Cotes du Ventoux, hardly preparing the taster for the opulent, seductive fruit that permeates this medium-bodied potion. Infused with the hedonistic scent and flavor of Provence: "garrique" and the heady savor of herbes de Provence, this delicious Cotes du Ventoux is hard to resist. One taster called it "hedonism in a glass, but not a sin", so enjoy.
Accompaniments: Although we would serve the Domaine Durieu Cotes du Ventoux with a variety of meats and cheeses, and just about any Italian or Provencal fare, we enjoyed this little charmer all by itself the first time we tried it. We were so taken by its seductive charm that we consumed it "au natural". May we suggest that you do the same, then open a second bottle (with friends of course) to have with a gourmet three cheese pizza with spinach and black olives, or just about anything else, Yum!
Poggio del Lupo Orvieto 1999 - Italy
Situated majestically atop a high bluff in Umbria, the hill town of Orvieto has been famous for winemaking since the pre-Roman time of the Etruscans. Ancient cellars were carved from the underlying tufa. During a later era, when the popes used the town as a retreat from the summer heat of the Vatican, the golden, soft abboccato wines of Orvieto won a number of devotees from the Holy See. The most famous legend is that of Pope Gregory XVI, who stipulated in his will that his body be bathed in the wine of Orvieto before his funeral.
Today, most of the modern white wine from Orvieto's 30 bottlers is dry rather than sweet. Conversion to newer winemaking technology has elevated the overall quality, but sadly, the average commercial Orvieto lacks the luster of Orvieto's ancient reputation. However, the excellent quality for both dry and sweet wines can still be found among the few estate producers among the 650 growers surrounding the town.
Poggio del Lupo is one of Orvieto's fine, small estates, (60 acres, 30 planted in vines). Their Orvieto is made from a blend of 50% Procanico (a superior, local variety of Trebbiano), 20% Verdello, 10% Grechetto, 10% Drupeggio, and 10% Malvasia.
Antonio Ortu is the proprietor and impetus behind Poggio del Lupo. He is an interesting story. After his father's death, in the 1960's, Antonio Ortu directed his family's several thousand acre estate in Libya. When Qaddafi came to power in the 1970's, all Italians were expelled. Ortu, forced to flee on one day's notice, arrived penniless in Italy. He became interested in grape growing and winemaking; purchased a small property north of the town of Orvieto; gradually planted vineyards and built a small winery. His drive to remake his life after losing everything, has culminated in this excellent wine.
Tasting Notes: A dry, medium-bodied, yet delightfully, full-flavored wine, the 1999 Poggio del Lupo Orvieto sports the clear golden-hued role of classic Orvieto. Fragrant and refreshing, this Orvieto goes down easy. Hints of pineapple and peach are detectable on the palate, adding to the wine's subtle complexity. Drink this Umbrian classic moderately chilled.
Accompaniments: Orvieto is often considered to be one of Italy's finest aperitifs and certainly the Poggio del Lupo is no exception. However, our experience leads us to suggest, even implore, that you not take this lovely Orvieto for granted. Paired with seafood, especially shellfish, light pasta dishes, particularly those with garlic and oil, all of the latent goodness in this wine gushes forward. Even a lightly spiced Hunan chicken or similarly endowed Asian dish will bring out the strength and vigor in this wine. Buon Apetito.
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