Malbec was once important in Bordeaux and the Loire, where it figured into various blends, but it has steadily lost ground in recent years. This 'not very hardy' grape as been steadily replaced by Merlot and the two Cabernets. However, Argentina is markedly successful with this varietal. In fact, some of that country's finest wines are made exclusively from Malbec. In the United States, Malbec is used almost exclusively as a blending grape, and an insignificant one at that, but a few wineries use it, the most obvious reason being that it is considered part of the Bordeaux cepage or blend .

Marsanne (White) [mahr-SANN]

Marsanne is popular in the Rhone (along with Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Viognier) and Australia, especially in Victoria, which now has some of the world's oldest Marsanne vineyards. At its best, Marsanne can be a full-bodied, moderately intense wine with spice, pear and citrus notes.

Merlot (Red) [mur-LO]

Merlot is the red-wine success of the 1990s: its popularity has soared along with its acreage, and it seems wine lovers can't get enough of it. It dominates Bordeaux, except for the Medoc and Graves. Although it is mainly used as a supporting player in the Bordeaux blend, it can stand alone. In St. Emilion and Pomerol, especially, it produces noteworthy wines, culminating in Chateau Petrus - Bordeaux's most expensive wine. In Italy it's everywhere, though most of the Merlot there is light, unremarkable stuff. However, there are strong exceptions to that rule. Despite its popularity, its quality ranges only from good to very good most of the time, though there are a few stellar producers found around the world.

Several styles of Merlot have emerged in California. One is a Cabernet-style Merlot, which includes a high percentage (up to 25 percent) of Cabernet blended into the Merlot. A second style is less reliant on Cabernet, so it yields a softer, suppler, medium-weight, less tannic wine that features more herb, cherry and chocolate flavors. A third style is a very light and simple wine; this type's sales are fueling Merlot's overall growth.

Mourvedre (Red) [more-VAY-druh]

As long as the weather is warm, Mourvedre ably tolerates a wide variety of soils. It is popular across the south of France, especially in Provence, where it is responsible for the greatness of Bandol, and many a fine red Cotes-du-Rhone. It is often blended in Chateauneuf-du-Pape; Languedoc makes it as a varietal. Spain uses it in many areas, including Valencia. In the United States, Mourvedre remains a minor factor for now, pursued by a few wineries that specialize in Rhone-style wines. The wine it produces can be quite pleasing, with medium weight, spicy cherry and berry flavors and moderate tannins. It ages well.

Muscat (White) [MUSS-kat]

Muscat is a legacy of the ancient world. Today, it is known primarily as Muscat, Muscat Blanc, or Muscat Canelli. It is marked by strong spice and floral notes, and it can be produced as a varietal or used in blending, its primary function in California. Moscato in Italy, Moscatel in Iberia, this grape can turn into anything from the low-alcohol, sweet and frothy Moscato d' Asti and Muscat de Canelli to bone-dry wines like Muscat d' Alsace. Muscat also produces fortified wine such as Beaume de Venise.

Nebbiolo (Red) [Neb-be-OLO]

The great grape of Northern Italy, where it excels in Barolo and Barbaresco, Nebbiolo fashions strong, flavorful, age worthy wines. Mainly unsuccessful elsewhere, Nebbiolo is struggling to gain a small foothold in California. So far, the Nebbiolo wines from California have been light and uncomplicated, bearing little resemblance to their Italian cousins.