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The Varietal Connection

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French ColombardFrench Colombard (White) [kahl-um-BARRD]

The king of jug wine white grapes, French Colombard is the second most widely planted white variety in California. Virtually all of it goes into jug wines; its value is that it produces an abundant crop, averaging 11 tons per acre, and it makes clean and simple wines with firm acidity.

 

 

Fume Blanc (White) [FOO-may BLAHNK]

See Sauvignon Blanc.

GamayGamay (Red) [ga-MAY]

Beaujolais makes its famous, fruity reds exclusively from one of the many Gamay clones available. Low in alcohol and relatively high in acidity, the wines are meant to be drunk soon after bottling; the ultimate example of this is Beaujolais Nouveau, which is whipped onto shelves everywhere almost overnight by the third week in November. It is also grown in the Loire, but there it makes no remarkable wines. The Swiss grow it widely for blending with Pinot Noir.

 

GewurztraminerGewurztraminer (White) [ge-VERTS-trah-mee-ner]

Gewurztraminer can yield magnificent wines, as is best demonstrated in Alsace, France, where it is made into a variety of styles from dry to off-dry to sweet. The grape needs a cool, sunny climate to ripen fully. It is a temperamental grape to grow and vinify, as its potent spiciness can be overbearing when unchecked. At its best, is produces a floral and refreshing wine with crisp acidity that pairs well with spicy dishes. When left for late harvest, it's uncommonly rich and complex, yielding a tremendous dessert wine.

Gewurztraminer is also popular in Eastern Europe, New Zealand, and the Pacific Northwest.

GrenacheGrenache (Red) [greh-NAHSH]

Drought and heat resistant, Grenache yields a fruity, spicy, medium-bodied wine with supple tannins. The second most widely planted grape in the world, Grenache is widespread in the southern RhoneValley. It figures strongly in the blend of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (although there are some pure varietals), and it is used on its own for the rose wines of Tavel and Lirac; it is also used in France's sweet Banyuls wine. Grenache is also important in Spain, where it's known as Garnacha Tinta; it is especially noteworthy in Rioja and Priorat. Grenache used to be more popular in Australia, but has now been surpassed by Syrah, although a few Barossa Valley producers are making wines with Grenache similar to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. In California, it's a workhorse-blending grape, although occasionally old vines are found and its grapes are made into a varietal wine, which at its best can be quite good. It may make a comeback as enthusiasts of Rhone style wines seek cooler areas and an excellent blending grape.



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