Domaine Les Fines Graves Domaine Les Fines Graves is the fiefdom of Jacky Janodet, his lovely wife and quite soon, their son, a young man appropriately completing his apprenticeship in oenology. From the moment you come to the entrance to their pretty cheerful house on the outskirts of Romaneche-Thorins, a home with a meticulously mountained lawn and a lovely garden, you know that the Janodet's are a serious sober, dedicated family that don't tolerate anything done in slip-shod fashion. Vines cover nearly every available plot in Romaneche-Thorins, beginning their assault on the land directly behind the Domaine Les Fines Graves and neighboring homes in "Les Garniers" at the edge of the village. Yet, it is not until a few yards beyond the town road that the neat rows of Gamay vines begin their slow ascent to Moulin a Vent and the surrounding Grand Cru hillsides, some five kilometers from the Domaine. The Janodet's produce several excellent wines from numerous plots. From parcels near the village, they make a fine, fairly full-bodied Beaujolais-Villages that resembles more a robust, structured Moulin a Vent than a typical Beaujolais-Villages. Even firmer and fatter still is a very good Grand Cru Chenas that is built to last. However, it is the Moulin a Vent, the king of Beaujolais that reigns at this estate. Deep, brooding and quite Burgundian in nature, the Domaine Les Fines Graves Moulin a Vent is one of the most masculine and ageworthy of all Beaujolais wines. When asked how he most enjoyed his prize wine, Monsieur Janodet responded , "Not usually before it is five years of age; though some villages mature a little sooner than others...but my wines are made to age." Nearly all Beaujolais Villages and many Grand Cru as well would be dead and buried by their fifth anniversary. Nonetheless, contrary to popular belief, Beaujolais can be a real wine and a true Burgundy, gaining complexity with age, if only the necessary pruning and attention to quality that is practiced by Janodet would be employed elsewhere in the appellation.