In the north of Italy, nestled just beneath the great Alpine wall as it tumbles out of Switzerland and the gleaming Mediterranean Sea, lies Italy’s Piedmont. This is a region of myriad beauty. It is also the region of Italy closest to France in proximity as well as in the sheer quality and variety of exceptional wines it produces.

For centuries, Italy’s Piedmont remained a prize to be won among European powers, no doubt in part on account of the province’s exceptional wines and world famous cuisine that still draws happily on the abundance and quality of local truffles. Yet, today it is the superbly made wines of Italy’s Piedmont that garner the most international recognition: complex, hedonistic red wines, still delicate whites, and sweet haunting Muscats. Although not inexpensive, the great enological treasures of the Piedmont constitute the most affordable of Italy’s great wines and form a tapestry of the planet’s most affordable and exciting wines. With such exquisite fare, should anyone question why the hearty robust delights of the Piedmontese table remain the region’s most famous ambassadors to a hungry and thirsty world?

Barolo, the region’s quintessential red wine from the prized Nebbiolo varietal, reigns as Piedmont’s most renowned wine. It has justly earned the moniker “The King of Wines and the Wine of Kings,” and for good reason. Barolo offers complexity, flavor, nuance, and power, and it comes in a variety of styles, both modern and traditional. Barbera, another splendid red varietal and the region’s eponymous wine, is Piedmont’s most widely planted grape. Moreover, Piedmontese Barbera from Alba and Asti have also never been better, many even challenging Barolo in quality. And, not surprisingly, Piedmont also fashions red wine from several other indigenous varietals, including Dolcetto, Brachetto, and a host of others.

Although red wines dominate the wine scene in Piedmont and garner the most international attention, the white wines of Piedmont also reign as some of Italy’s finest. Arneis and Gavi are the region’s most elegant and traditional dry white wines. Neither receives much, if any, oak barrel ageing, and they are the better for it. Elegance, subtlety, pinpoint minerality and laser-like precision are hallmarks of these varietals. And, if sweet ethereal Moscato slakes your thirst, a host of Piedmontese producers make fine, easy to drink Moscato – a Moscato as succulent as any on earth – slightly effervescent and sweet but not cloying. Enjoy!

Beaujolais remains one of France’s classic and most endearing wines, although its reputation has been maligned by the ocean of Beaujolais Nouveau that began inundating our shores each November a generation ago. Authentic, classic Beaujolais bears little resemblance to Nouveau, and it has never been better. Will the real Beaujolais please stand up?

Situated in the extreme south of Burgundy, Beaujolais is a vast region of nearly two hundred villages and communes, which are spread out on varying subsoils consisting of many individual terroirs. Unofficially, Beaujolais forms the dividing line between northern and southern France. Straddling the un-specified equivalent of the American Mason-Dixon Line, authentic Beaujolais flows in copious quantities north to Paris and south to Lyon and beyond to the delight of millions.

The Gamay Grape

In spite of inherent variations in style and quality, which reflect the differences in soil composition, altitude, and level of production among the region’s thousands of growers, one common denominator comes to fore in Beaujolais – the Gamay grape. Gamay provides the defining character and flavor of Beaujolais, and nowhere is this more the case than in the 10 cru villages of Beaujolais – the source of the finest wines of the region. Although wines bearing a Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages AOC can provide very pleasant drinking, the ten cru villages comprise the heart of Beaujolais and offer the consumer the finest Gamay wines in the world. In addition, each of these ten townships possesses a special terroir and an individual set of characteristics, which make for memorable drinking. These 10 cru villages of Beaujolais are Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chiroubles, St. Amour, Fleurie, Regnie, Chenas, Morgon, Julienas, and Moulin-à-Vent. Although each cru has its merits and particular attributes, Morgon, Julienas, and Moulin-à-Vent are widely acknowledged to be the finest, fullest and most Burgundy-like of the wines of Beaujolais, and they enjoy an enviable reputation for ageing up to five years or more in bottle with excellent results. Some reliable producers of superb cru Beaujolais include Château de Pizay, Château de Saint Lager, Daniel Bouland, Georges Descombes, and Mathieu Lapierre. Like all Beaujolais, cru Beaujolais is best consumed cool or even slightly chilled in the company of good home cooking. Enjoy!

The Rhône Valley of France has for many years been one of my favorite wine destinations. The swift flowing Rhône cuts a fine swath as it descends ever so swiftly from the Swiss Alps to the Mediterranean Sea. The region’s physical beauty and luminous light are legendary, and within sight of the Rhône lie some of the finest vineyards and appellations in France: Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and a bevy of Côte-du-Rhône villages that turn out some of the world’s most affordable treasures. All can be found along the mighty Rhône and upon the steep slopes of neighboring Languedoc. A recent trip to southern France has only reinforced my love for this region, but regrettably I don’t get to the south of France as often as I would like, as there are so many other wonderful wine regions to explore and new vineyards worldwide that merit attention. To compensate for my loss and to remind me of times past, I make sure to drink my share of splendid Rhône wines. Why? First and foremost, I like them. Secondly, they conjure the colorful images of Provence and nearby Languedoc that have been indelibly printed in my memory. And last but not least, year in and year out, the Rhône Valley consistently turns out an abundance of unadulterated wines that people enjoy drinking, with or without food. Consequently, one of my quests this past year has been to find more of the Rhône Valley’s hidden treasures along with those little known gems languishing in nearby Languedoc. I invite you to come and taste!

Salud!
Don