Notes from the Panel Archives - Page 25 of 32 - Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Soave Revisited: Not Your Grandfather’s White Wine

November 1, 2013 by Don Lahey

For decades the name Soave was nearly synonymous with white wine from Italy, much like the word Chablis doubled as a catch word for any white wine made in America. And to make matters worse, a hand full of Italian producers monopolized the market for Soave – a beautiful, personality filled white wine from northern Italy of charm and grace in its pure form. Unfortunately, these industrialized giants homogenized the Soave they produced, reducing it to the lowest common denominator. The result was oceans of eviscerated, innocuous white wine, whose only attribute was that it was squeaky clean, so clean in fact that it was grossly devoid of character and flavor.

Fortunately, a number of small grower/producers survived and others have joined them to restore Soave to its proper place among the top echelon of Italian white wines. Some of my favorite Soave producers are Gini and Tamellini, though Anselmi (who prefers not to use the name Soave in protest to past and present abuses), Inama and a number of other artisan producers make world class Soave as well. What I enjoy most is the delicacy and purity of authentic, carefully crafted Soave. No other white wine appears as ethereal as genuine Soave, yet real Soave is capable of captivating the mind as well as the palate, which is something your Grandfather’s Soave could never do.

Saluté!
Don

Don’s October Collector’s Series Top Picks

October 24, 2013 by Don Lahey

The Collector Series Top Pick this month belongs to one of Rioja’s iconic wines, the 2004 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Rioja Reserva. Nobody in Rioja, Spain’s most celebrated viticultural area, consistently makes a more complex, traditional style of Rioja Reserva than La Rioja Alta. The 2004 Viña Ardanza is positively brilliant, so we were not surprised that Wine Spectator awarded this herculean effort 94 points and just published a preview of the magazine’s buying guide (for the September 30, 2013 issue) in which the 2004 Viña Ardanza Reserva is deemed Highly Recommended. Better still, Wine Spectator was quick to point out that “Viña Ardanza also offers the best value for money out of this exclusive list.” If you want to taste a top notch Rioja Reserva or catch a glimpse of the languid beauty of Rioja, come and taste a glass of the 2004 Viña Ardanza. In each sip, you may actually experience the radiance of the Spanish sun, feel the wind sweeping clean high country vineyards under a pulsating blue sky, and glimpse the arid beauty of distant mountains. It’s all here in one great glass of Rioja! Enjoy!

Saluté
Don

Don’s October Premier Series Top Picks

October 17, 2013 by Don Lahey

This month’s Premier Series Top Pick pays tribute to the legions of Italian immigrant families who settled in California in the early part of the 20^th century. These hardy souls, including John and Jim Pedroncelli’s father John, Sr. weathered Prohibition and helped resurrect the wine industry in Sonoma County before going on to make America a wine drinking nation. Moreover, the Pedroncelli brothers continue to fashion delicious, easy to understand premium wines at prices most of us can afford. John Pedroncelli grew up on the family property and has been principal winemaker at Pedroncelli since 1948. Brother Jim was actually born in the winery’s offices, which were formerly the family’s home, and he has overseen marketing and sales at the winery since 1955. Today, the winery remains a complete family affair with children and grandchildren all involved in daily operations. It would be hard to find two more genuine people than John and Jim Pedroncelli, so this month I raise a toast to these two stalwart souls with a glass of this month’s Top Pick, the 2010 Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel – a true California classic.

Saluté.
Don

Lisa (Pedroncelli) Blakeley, Lance Blakeley, John Pedroncelli, Maureen Morehouse, Christine Pedroncelli, Joanna Pedroncelli (front) Jim Pedroncelli, Richard Morehouse, Phyllis Pedroncelli, Cathy Pedroncelli, Julie (Pedroncelli) and Ed St. John

In Search of Fine Red Wines That Hardly Anyone Knows

October 10, 2013 by Don Lahey

wineglasses The market is full of fine red wines from every imaginable place, so choosing a good one can be a daunting task. So why bother looking for such wines? Bang for the buck! And where does one start looking for fine red wines that hardly anyone knows? How about beginning with wines you’ve never heard of from a place you would never think of? Start with Uruguay, The Republic of Georgia and circle back to small garagiste producers in California. Consider grapes such as Bonarda, Saperavi, and Tannat before coming back to Mataro, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel. Uruguay, a South American oasis of peace and stability, has been making good wine for centuries, most of which has been consumed by the small but prosperous local population.

Tannat, whose origin is Southwest France where it figures in the legendary “Black Wine” of France known as Cahors, is Uruguay’s signature grape variety. The word tannin derives its name from the Tannat grape, which should tell us something about Tannat: It produces full-bodied, age worthy wines for certain. Alone or when blended with Merlot from wineries such as Artesana, Tannat delivers a lot of bang for the buck and pairs beautifully with red meats and rich sauces.

Saperavi, a red grape from The Republic of Georgia (a small country with a mere 8,000 year old history of wine production) yields another fine red wine that almost nobody knows. Saperavi is a versatile grape that can be made for gratifying early consumption or crafted for the long haul. Marani makes a number of noteworthy wines from the Saperavi varietal. And after further exploration far and wide, head back to California in search of old vine field blends of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Mataro and more from a small producer you’ve never heard of. You will almost certainly find wine worthy of the quest.

Saluté!
Don

Great White Wines That Hardly Anyone Knows

October 3, 2013 by Don Lahey

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and then there’s more Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And yeah, there’s the occasional Riesling or Viognier to take a break from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. But isn’t there more to fine white wine than the hegemony of the usual triumvirate? And what are some other great white wines? The world’s full of fine white wines that don’t receive the attention they deserve. For starters, how about Falanghina? Don’t try to pronounce it. Even in Italian, the name Falanghina (an indigenous grape variety of Italy’s Campania) doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue. Bright, fruity, soft, seductive, yet dry and refreshing, a growing number of first class Campanian producers are sending Falanghina our way. Try it! The same can be said for Greco and Fiano di Avellino, two super premium grape varieties from Italy’s alluring Amalfi Coast.

Greco and Fiano di Avellino are truly beautiful white wines that drink well alone and with food, especially seafood. Verdicchio is another crowd pleasing white wine from Italy that is now better than ever. Gruner Veltliner, Austria’s iconic white grape variety, also deserves to be better known. It makes a wonderful aperitif, and it pairs beautifully with Asian and Fusion cuisines. Gewurztraminer is another unsung hero. It’s one of the few white wines that can hold up to heat and heady Asian stir fries as well as rich pâtés and smoked meats. Gewurztraminer is never outclassed by the food, and it can be enjoyed as an aperitif or in place of dessert. And these grapes are just a few of the great white varietals that abound. So, why not really step outside of the Chardonnay/Sauvignon box?

A votre santé
Don Lahey

Don’s September Collector’s Series Top Picks

September 17, 2013 by Don Lahey

The Collector Series Top Picks are always fraught with angst, but here is goes. My first Top Pick this month belongs to the folks at Reyneke and their elegant, flavorful, beautifully balanced 2011 Stellenbosch Syrah. Reyneke’s 2011 Syrah is truly world class Syrah. It exhibits the elegance and polish that one expects from top notch producers from France’s Rhône Valley as well as plenty of ripe fruit and a wonderful array of complex flavors. This is South African wine at the top of its game, a wine to sip and enjoy with cheese or the best meal one can muster.

My second Top Pick is really a toss-up. Valenciso’s 2011 Rioja Blanco is perhaps the finest white Rioja I have tasted in decades, but it is still young and in need of additional time in bottle to fully blossom. Rustenberg’s 2010 John X. Merriman is another classic, a meritage or red Bordeaux blend that highlights how good South African wine can be and how dedicated many of the folks on Africa’s Western Cape are to making great wine. Rustenberg’s John X. Merriman, also, outshines many red Bordeaux and California meritage offerings costing twice the price. But like the Valenciso Rioja Blanco, it, too, is quite young. So, decide if you’re in the mood for white or red.

A votre santé.
Don Lahey

Don’s September Premier Series Top Picks

September 16, 2013 by Don Lahey

This month belongs to the fine white grape varieties of Italy. Consequently, my first Top Pick goes to Tavignano’s 2012 Torre Villa Verdicchio. Verdicchio is and always has been a better wine than the mass produced amphora shaped fish bottle that many came to associate with Verdicchio, and Tavignano’s delicious Torre Villa provides further proof of Verdicchio’s consummate charm. Tavignano’s Verdicchio is a true crowd pleaser: pure, fresh, simple and elegant this delicious white wine delivers pleasure in every sip and slips down ever so easily.

My second Top Pick goes to Cantina del Taburno’s 2012 Greco. The ancient Greco variety is one of the Amalfi Coast’s and Italy’s greatest white grapes and the folks at Taburno have truly raised the bar with their 2012 Greco – in my opinion their finest Greco to date. This is a splendid wine to enjoy on its own or with seafood. This month’s red wines shine as well, but for September, I give the nod to Italy’s beautiful white wines.

A votre santé.
Don Lahey

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