Domaine de Font-Sane is one of the most charming and rewarding stops in the lovely Provence village of Gigondas, due in no small part to the enormous talent and gracious manner of the Veronique Peysson-Cunty, the third generation of women to make wine at this outstanding Gigondas estate. Whether she is discussing the relative merits or deficiencies of a particular vintage, or the effects of the terroir on her critically acclaimed Gigondas, Veronique Peysson-Cunty is both refreshingly honest and thoroughly captivating. Slim, but ebullient, her sparse frame mirrors the lean landscape of her native Gigondas, a paysage that by all accounts can hardly be described as corpulent. Yet, it bursts with life; the song of the cicadas, the power of the wind - the mighty mistral - and the illumination of a special landscape by the purest of light that throbs like a pulse. In many respects the story at Domaine de Font-Sane is not unusual in the southern Rhone Valley; the family has cultivated vines in the village for generations but always sold all or most of their wine in bulk to negotiants until Veronique’s father, Gilbert, decided to estate bottle wine at the Domaine. For many generations, Gigondas was the preferred "bonesetter" (purchased wine used to doctor and improve leaner, more famous wines) for expensive estate bottled Burgundies. It should come as no surprise then that as Gigondas gained acclaim in the 1960's and 1970's, and began bottling its own wine, the quality of many "great" Burgundies slipped as the supply of Gigondas dried up. What has become Burgundy’s loss and shameful legacy exposed, is presently our gain. Madame Peysson-Cunty has taken this domaine to new heights. Font-Sane is a typically small estate, comprising about 35 acres (25 of which are in Gigondas, the remainder in nearby Cotes de Vintaux. All the parcels used for the Gigondas are in sight of this small winery where the view of the rugged Dentelles de Montmirail is nothing short of spectacular. The Dentelles de Montmirail is the splendid outcropping of rock and heather that constitutes the final vestiges of the Alps as they descend into the fecund Vaucluse plain. The average age of the vines at Font-Sane are nearly 40 years old, with the youngest 20 year old vines planted hundreds of meters up the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail, with important parcels of 50 year old vines on the middle slopes, and a small plot of 100 year old vines adjacent to the house and cellars on more level ground. In blind tastings among the growers of Gigondas, Font-Sane is often chosen as the best of the appellation. Her male counterparts contend that her wine exhibits a certain feminine charm which is both easily identifiable and immediately ingratiating because it provides a counterpoint to the typically more rustic, macho wines of the Gigondas appellation. In a wine that is known for its power and vigor, she has infused a soul. Font-Sane combines great finesse, smoothness and length in the mouth along with power and depth of color and flavor. Veronique contends that her wine is merely the result of her desire to produce balanced wines that check the often aggressive tannins of other Gigondas. Clearly, she has succeeded in imbuing her powerful, virile Gigondas with a healthy, feminine side.