Vol. 6 No. 8
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Bodegas Breton Loriñon Tinto Crianza Rioja 1999 - Spain
Artesa Carneros Chardonnay 2000 - U.S.A.
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Artesa Napa Merlot 1999 - U.S.A.
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio Pinot Grigio 2001- Italy
Bodegas Breton Loriñon Tinto Crianza Rioja - 1999 Spain
Bodegas Breton is a small but highly respected estate in the Rioja Alta, one of the world's most beautiful wine regions. Founded in 1983, Bodegas Breton is a partnership that includes a 100-acre estate called Viña Loriñon, which is situated just outside of Logrono along the south bank of the Ebro River, and the legendary Dominio de Conté site whose average vineyard age is the oldest in the Rioja. Both sites specialize in the cultivation of the traditional Rioja varietals: Tempranillo primarily, followed by Mazuelo, Graciano, and Garnacha for the estate's reds and Viura and Malvasia for the whites. It is these traditional Spanish varietals that account for the distinctive flavor and style of Breton's wines, as well as the unique taste of Rioja.
Although of youthful origin, Breton takes a very traditional approach to its wines. The philosophical bent and overriding objective of the estate is the preservation of the elegant, balanced Rioja Alta style and the longevity for which traditional Rioja is legendary. Since its first release, Bodegas Breton has consistently sought higher extract in its wines to complement the racy, impressive acidic structure that is obtained in their mature, low yielding vineyards. The outstanding 1999 vintage is testimony to Breton's ultimate achievement, as this vintage has supplied both supreme extract as well as elegance to the estate's wines, especially the Loriñon Crianza.
Bodegas Breton produces both white and red Rioja. This estate was a pioneer in the production of barrel-fermented dry white wine from 100% Viura. The Loriñon Blanco Barrel Fermented' Rioja is a firm, richly-textured and perfumed wine that improves with age. A more traditional white Crianza, aged twelve months in oak, is also produced. Yet, despite Breton's success with white Rioja, the bodega's red Rioja remains the estate's specialty. The Loriñon Tinto Crianza is considered by critics to be the most serious wine of its type produced in Rioja today. This special wine spends 15-18 months in seasoned American oak barrels, before resting an additional year in bottle. In addition, the rare Dominio de Conté Reserva is produced only in the finest vintages and serves as a reminder of the great age worthiness and depth of Rioja - attributes that made this region and its wine legendary in the 19th century.
Tasting Notes: The glorious 1999 vintage has imbued the 1999 Loriñon Tinto Crianza with a rich ruby robe. As the wine sits in the glass, a gorgeous bouquet unfolds that reveals both extract and elegance. An amplifying nose proffers copious quantities of red and black fruits, cassis, chestnut, tobacco, spice, and of course vanilla and sweet oak. On the palate, the Loriñno Crianza is smooth and silky, but packed with flavor and nuance. With each sip, the latent goodness of this magical Rioja slowly reveals itself; so don't be in too much of a hurry or you will miss the best that this Crianza has to offer. We suggest that you allow the Loriñon to breath for an hour, preferably in a decanter, before serving it at cool temperature (about 65ºF).
Accompaniments: Steaks and chops provide excellent accompaniments to the 1999 Loriñon Tinto Crianza. Beef, pork and lamb are all traditional favorites in Rioja, and we heartily endorse these pairings. But we won't stop there. An herb, butter and garlic roasted chicken provides another perfect foil to this lovely Crianza, as this simple but flavorful dish allows the wine to shine unencumbered. Several meatless pasta dishes also rank among our favorite choices with the Breton Loriñon. High on our list is penne pasta, served with a heady white bean sauce. Made with plenty of onion, garlic, red pepper, and celery, this dish highlights the fresh and elegant side of this wine. Cuban black bean dishes and sizzling fajitas also make for an enviable marriage. Enjoy!
La Rioja: A Special Land
La Rioja is a land of history, light and color, vines and wheat and above all, people for whom friendship is the greatest possible treasure, asserts the Rioja Bureau of Tourism. Indeed, La Rioja is a special land, etched by history and endowed by wine a wine as warm, friendly, and distinctive as the people themselves.
For millennia, vineyards have influenced the history and character of the people in the Rioja. Long before France was the self-proclaimed bastion of fine wine, the Romans had pushed inland into Iberia from the Mediterranean all the way to the headwaters of the Ebro River and its tiny tributary, Rio Oja, from which the region derives its name. In La Rioja the Romans found ideal conditions for the cultivation the vine and quite possibly the very same varietals that flourish there today, most notably the Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha (Grenache) grapes that today constitute the red wine cepage of Rioja. Some French historians even claim that Cabernet, the world's most renowned red grape varietal, originated in La Rioja rather than in Bordeaux, some 150 miles to the north.
After the Romans and the collapse of Imperial Rome came the usual succession of invaders, reading like a litany of destruction across the pages of Western Civilization. Yet, the Rioja flourished despite its position at the crossroads of Christianity and Islam; and it emerged intact after a countless array of mediaeval squabbles. On the road to Compostella, mediaeval Europe's greatest pilgrimage site, La Rioja remains a treasure trove of gothic castles, grandiose churches and beautiful monasteries. Indeed, one of the greatest contributions to Spanish culture has its origins in La Rioja: Castillian Spanish. First written by the Spanish priest, Gonzalo de Berceo, in the monastery at San Milan, Spanish is now spoken as a first language by over 300 million people around the world.
La Rioja: A Special Wine
Like most of the great viticultural regions of Europe, the face of modern Rioja was cast during the 19th century. With the hope of escaping the dreaded phylloxera, the deadly vine louse in Bordeaux, many successful Bordeaux growers began moving south across the Pyrenees to La Rioja in the 1870's. With them flowed the capital and the expertise to enrich and improve the already splendid grapes of La Rioja. They instituted extended barrel ageing, which remains the signature of fine Rioja wines. Even today, modern Rioja spends more time in small oak barrels than almost any other modern wine. And, like Bordeaux, the wine of La Rioja is a blend of up to four premium grapes: Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Grenache. This unique blend of grapes, coupled with a long, lavish hiatus in small, American oak barrels called barriques, produces a warm, very dry, but richly fruity wine of great finesse and perfume that can be nearly immortal in great vintages.
Recipe for Red Wine:
Penne with White Bean Sauce
1 lb. Penne pasta - cooked
2 cups chicken broth
2 ribs of celery - sliced thin
1 medium red onion - chopped
2 Tbl. Parsley
2 cloves garlic - chopped
1 red pepper - chopped
2 Tbl. olive oil
2 cups Great Northern Beans - cooked
Fresh Parmesan cheese
In a large fry pan, sauté garlic, onion, red pepper and celery in olive oil. Heat until vegetables are soft. Add the beans and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the chicken broth and simmer with cover for 5-10 minutes. Mash ½ of the beans with a fork and simmer 1-2 minutes longer.
Add drained pasta to the fry pan and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Artesa Carneros Chardonnay 2000 - U.S.A.
Artesa is perhaps the most imaginative and striking of all Napa Valley wineries, rivaling and even surpassing the likes of Opus One and Dominus. Resplendent with a sculpture studded visitor center and a new futuristic fountain, everything about this young winery exudes panache and style, including the bevy of opulent, individualistic wines that flow from its exquisite vineyards.
Artesa means 'craftsman' in Catalan, the language of Barcelona and the winery's owners, the Raventos family. As the name implies, all of this world-class winery's offerings are handcrafted. Born in 1991 to great fanfare, Artesa has undergone several makeovers in order to specialize in the production of small lots of exquisite wines from single vineyards.
Established originally to make only premium sparkling wines, Artesa has adroitly switched its focus to include a range of premium still wines from California's finest varietals. Since 1997 millions of dollars have been spent on a 'winemakers wish list,' which has raised the bar at this outstanding property, not only for its still varietal offerings but also for the estate's traditional methode champenoise sparkling wines, too.
Today, the winery's most notable offerings include a stunning Carneros Chardonnay, an equally tantalizing Pinot Noir from the same appellation, and a rich, elegant Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, in addition to several excellent champagne style sparkling wine. In total, Artesa comprises 352 acres in Carneros that are devoted mostly to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; 409 acres in northern Alexander Valley, which are dedicated equally to the Bordeaux varietals and Tempranillo; and a new 300 acre Sonoma Coast property that will produce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Spain's most important white varietal - Albarino.
In order to produce both top-notch sparkling wines and still premium varietals that occupy the top echelon of Napa Valley offerings, Artesa employs a dynamic duo of head winemakers, which includes Todd Graf for sparkling wines and Don Van Staaveren for still wines.
Since coming to Artesa, both winemakers have concentrated on achieving superstar status for the estate's wines. Todd Graff was the associate winemaker at Shramsberg, California's most notable sparkling wine producer before arriving at Artesa, while Van Staaveren came to Artesa after 20 years experience at Chateau St. Jean, where he collected an unprecedented number of awards and critical accolades. Under both men's direction, Artesa has unequivocally raised the quality bar.
In Van Staaveren's case, he left Chateau St. Jean at the top of his game as Head Winemaker for one of the nation's most successful wineries. He had not only established Chateau St. Jean as one of California's finest producers of Chardonnay, he was universally applauded for restoring fine red wines to that winery. Under his tutelage Cinq Cepages became the number one rated red wine in America, and the month he joined Artesa, five of Don's wines were rated among the Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 1996'. Furthermore, Don was duly honored in 1999 with the Spectator's 'Wine of the Year.
In addition to Artesa, the Raventos family also owns Codorniu, Spain's first and foremost producer of Cava; Bodegas Bilbainas, an historic property in the heart of Haro in La Rioja Alta; Septima, a stunning new winery in the famed Agrelo district of the province of Mendoza in Argentina, and several other prime Spanish properties. All are renowned for their quality and individual styling.
Tasting Notes: Bold, but impeccably balanced the 2000 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay is a statement of excellence in a glass. A golden hue, which is deftly tinged with a glint of green, sets the tone for the goodness to follow. A tantalizing array of aromas waft from the glass: tropical fruit, apple citrus, and a light spicy oak underpinning that emanates from barrel-fermentation and aging sur lie caress the nose. Complex, satisfying flavors that recall peach, pear, and the dry, satisfying distillation of Ambrosia round out the palate profile of the 2000 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay. Big, but never out of synch, this Chardonnay is a veritable pleasure to drink. We suggest serving the Artesa Chardonnay either moderately chilled or at cool room temperature; each has its own merits.
Accompaniments: The 2000 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay is one California Chardonnay that tastes equally well with food as it does on its own, and that says a lot. Most premium California Chardonnays seem built to shock and awe rather than ingratiate. Upon first sip, most can elicit plenty of flavor and interest, but by the time you come to the end of the glass, the blitzkrieg of power and oak have fatigued the palate. Not so with the Artesa, which begs for a second, and even a third seductive glass without a prop. Nevertheless, food is enhanced by this statuesque Chardonnay. We suggest flavorful fish dishes, such as Sea Bass, prepared with a red pepper beurre blanc and accompanied by creamy tarragon infused polenta. Grilled Shrimp, served in a roasted red pepper and thyme sauce over Asparagus Risotto, makes for another fine accompaniment to the Artesa. A Honey Smoked Pork Chop or a flavorful Peasant Chicken and Pasta provide other comely partners. In addition, don't pass up the opportunity to try this charming Carneros offering with a host of cheese based dishes, especially Cheese and Leek Pies, a creamy Pasta Primavera or even Fondue. However, regardless of what you decide to serve or not serve with the 2000 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay, we are confident of your enjoyment. Salut!
Recipe for White Wine
Sea Bass with Roasted Pepper Rouille
4 pieces fresh Sea Bass fillets
2 cloves garlic - minced
2-3 roasted red peppers- cut into strips
2 tsp. tomato paste
1 shallot - chopped
½ cup olive oil
juice of 1 fresh lime
Rinse fillets well with cool water, pat dry and place on grill or in a baking dish. In a blender, mix garlic, red pepper strips, tomato paste and shallot. Slowly add oil and lime juice while blending. Blend until mixture is smooth. Add mixture to a sauce pan and heat slowly for 1-2 minutes until warm.
Grill or bake fish for 5-10 minutes over high heat until cooked but not dry. Serve fish with warmed sauce underneath each fillet.
Artesa Napa Merlot 1999 - U.S.A.
Artesa is perhaps the most imaginative and striking of all Napa Valley wineries, rivaling and even surpassing the likes of Opus One and Dominus. Resplendent with a sculpture studded visitor center and a new futuristic fountain, everything about this young winery exudes panache and style, including the bevy of opulent, individualistic wines that flow from its exquisite vineyards.
Artesa means 'craftsman' in Catalan, the language of Barcelona and the winery's owners, the Raventos family. As the name implies, all of this world-class winery's offerings are handcrafted. Born in 1991 to great fanfare, Artesa has undergone several makeovers in order to specialize in the production of small lots of exquisite wines from single vineyards.
Established originally to make only premium sparkling wines, Artesa has adroitly switched its focus to include a range of premium still wines from California's finest varietals. Consequently, this winery's most notable offerings include a classic, complex Merlot, a stunning Carneros Chardonnay, an equally tantalizing Pinot Noir, and a rich, elegant Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, in addition to several excellent champagne style sparkling wines. In total, Artesa comprises 352 acres in Carneros, 409 acres in northern Alexander Valley, and a new 300-acre Sonoma Coast property that will soon produce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Spain's most important white varietal Albarino.
Overseeing the entire still wine production at Artesa is Don Van Staaveren, the winemaker who created the now legendary Cinq Cepage while at Chateau St. Jean. He also holds an unprecedented number of Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of the Year, as well as that publication's Wine of the Year Award.' In other words, this guy knows how to make wine.
Tasting Notes: Deeply colored and boldly styled, the 1999 Artesa Napa Merlot is not one of the wimpy, cherry-berry, cola-styled Merlots. Rather, this is a serious, robust Merlot that recalls top notch St. Emilion, with a California attitude. Scents of deep down black fruits, most notably black cherry and cassis, coupled with vanilla bean and coffee, slowly unfold from the glass. On the palate, ripe uncomplicated fruit and a hint of both sweet oak and chocolate entice the gullet. Despite a healthy dollop of well-integrated tannin in the finish, the Artesa Napa Merlot offers a nicely rounded feel and is quite enjoyable now. Nevertheless, we believe this Merlot will be even better in a year or two, if you can wait that long. In any case, we suggest allowing the 1999 Artesa Merlot to breathe for at least thirty minutes, before consuming it at room temperature.
Accompaniments: No self-respecting California Merlot needs food,' uttered one taster. Well then in that case, this Artesa Merlot has more than its share of self respect, chimed another member of the panel You got that right, this wine certainly doesn't suffer from a poor self image, replied a third voice. In other words, you don't need to hide this wine behind a fancy dish. If you like rich mouth filling Merlot, the Napa Artesa Merlot supplies more than enough flavor and pleasure to fill the bill on its own. Nonetheless, the usual beef, lamb and pork offerings all provide pleasant companions, as does wild game. And just for the record, one of our favorite accompaniments to the Artesa Merlot remains a Pork Loin Chop, topped with brandied apples and served with a caramelized onion bread pudding. Yum!
Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio Pinot Grigio 2001- Italy
Four generations of the Marco Felluga family have been fashioning some of the Collio's most enchanting wines, and with more than a hundred years under their belt they have got it right. Nestled in the hills of northeast Italy, sandwiched between the Julian Alps on the border with Slovenia and the glimmering blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, Collio is home to many of Italy's finest white wines. Here the natural aria condizionata as the locals call it, provides the Collio with the perfect climate for the production of a growing number of premium varietals.
For centuries the Collio languished in isolation and poverty due to the shifting tides of political unrest, which began with the Romans and was followed by the Huns, Byzantines, Venetians, Austrians and an entire cohort of other conquering forces. It was not until after World War II and its ensuing stability that the Collio began its meteoric viticultural ascent. However, its land has always been ideal for the cultivation of the vine and one of the Collio's earliest and most renowned vineyards has always been Russiz. In 1868, the Villa Russiz winery was established near Capriva to support a renowned orphanage. Today, Marco Felluga produces its finest Pinot Grigio as a single vineyard Russiz Superiore. In our opinion, Felluga's Russiz is the finest Pinot Grigio in all of Italy, eclipsing all other contenders and pretenders.
The Marco Felluga winery also produces Tocai, Merlot and several other outstanding Collio wines, in addition to the Russiz Superiore.
Tasting Notes: Wow. This is.. the best Pinot Grigio I have ever tasted.... Thank the Lord, this is real Pinot Grigio, and not one of those clear watery renditions or insipid fruit bombs, with no backbone, that they call Pinot Grigio, etc., etc. No, guys, this is the real thing a wine of distinctive flavor, substance and supreme quality. The tasting panel was unanimous in its kudos for the 2001 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Pinot Grigio because this is easily the finest Pinot Grigio we have tasted in years. Decadent fruit, balanced by a dry complex minerality, and a long luxuriant finish that bears traces of almond and an ethereal quality that can only be described as other worldly, puts this Pinot Grigio at the top of the pack. And to add icing on the cake, the Felluga Russiz sports the most beautiful robe we have ever seen on a Pinot Grigio: a bright 14 carat gold, with a flash of sunlight and a haunting glimmer. The 2001 Marco Felluga Russiz is truly a ray of sunshine in a glass.
Accompaniments: Winter, spring, summer, or fall good Pinot Grigio provides one of the best aperitifs we know, which makes the 2001 Marco Felluga Russiz the best of the best. Indeed, this is the quintessential Pinot Grigio. Nevertheless, the tasting panel remains enamored of the Felluga Russiz with a variety of well-prepared dishes. Trout Amandine provides a splendid pairing, as do most baked, grilled, poached or smoked white fish. The pure fruit and zesty minerality of the wine enhance the fresh, delicate flavors of the fish, and the Russiz retains ample flavor to highlight a substantial sauce. Other excellent matches include flavorful chicken salads, made with mild curry, nuts or fresh fruit. Seafood crepes, Coquille St. Jacques, and light, authentic Piedmontese-style risottos present additional opportunities to let the 2001 Felluga Russiz shine. Enjoy!
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