Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Cabernet Sauvignon: The King of Wines

September 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely cultivated wine grape on the planet. While Cabernet Sauvignon’s preeminence underscores consumers insatiable thirst for the grape and the dark red wine that it yields, Cabernet Sauvignon is a relative newcomer among the world’s wine grape varieties and its immense popularity is of recent origin. Although Cabernet Sauvignon was thought to be an ancient varietal, DNA studies conducted in the 1990s revealed that Cabernet Sauvignon is not nearly as old as was once thought. In fact, it has only been around since the 17^th century. Moreover, what is even more startling is that Cabernet Sauvignon is actually the offspring of Cabernet Franc (a red variety) and Sauvignon Blanc (a white variety).

The origin of Cabernet Sauvignon is now widely acknowledged to be southwest France in the environs of Bordeaux, where it holds court with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and in rare instances Carmenère. The combination of any three or more of these varieties is what is known in Europe as the Bordeaux Blend or in California and elsewhere as a Meritage selection. Some researchers now suggest that northern Spain, just south of the Pyrenees, may one day also lay a legitimate claim as to an original site of the planet’s most important red grape variety. However, Bordeaux rightly claims to be the disseminator of this noble red grape because from Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon has traveled the world far and wide.

In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon is the heart and soul of the finest Médoc wines and a leading player in nearly all of the finest red wines of Graves. Châteaux Haut-Brion, Margaux, Latour, and Lafite are all Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. However, even in Bordeaux appellations where Cabernet is King, it is usually blended with Merlot and/or other traditional Bordeaux varietals. By nature, Cabernet Sauvignon is a thick skinned grape that requires a longer maturation than most red grape varieties, which makes blending it a natural choice in winemaking regions such as Bordeaux where climate conditions are variable.

In general, Cabernet Sauvignon thrives under warm, even hot, semi arid conditions, which is one reason why this noble variety has been extensively and successfully cultivated in Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, South Africa, Spain and elsewhere. In particular, Cabernet Sauvignon enjoys a privileged place in American viticulture, and it is unquestionably California’s most prestigious red varietal, both in consummate quality as well as price. California’s Napa Valley and surrounding counties are generally acknowledged to produce the New World’s finest varietal Cabernet Sauvignons. However, Argentina, Australia, Chile, Italy, South Africa, and Spain, among others, also fashion world-class Cabernet Sauvignon, and often their wines offer greater quality and value.

In flavor profile, Cabernet Sauvignon can vary considerably, depending upon climate and terroir. However, blackberry and blackcurrant (often referred to as cassis) flavors are most often associated with this premium variety. Earthy and herbaceous aromas, cedar, eucalyptus, graphite, and tobacco are also common. Moreover, of all the world’s red grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon has the greatest propensity for successful ageing. Cabernet Sauvignon also contains high amounts of antioxidants and resveratrol, which make its wines some of the most healthful on the planet as well as the most widely enjoyed.

Dão: The Tuscany of Portugal

August 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Located in the north-central part of Portugal, Dão is surrounded on all sides by mountains which shelter this ancient viticultural region from severe weather and provide ideal conditions for the cultivation of Portugal’s excellent, though mostly unsung, indigenous grape varietals. The region’s high altitude vineyards grow on granite and schist soils up to nearly 3,500 feet. Dão’s high altitude makes for cool nights, slow ripening, and the propensity to produce highly aromatic wines of superior elegance and longevity, attributes which has earned Dão the moniker The Tuscany of Portugal.

Dão produces both red and white wines. The region’s signature white grape is Encruzado, a grape renowned for producing tasty white wines in a myriad of styles, ranging from fresh, light, and supremely elegant white wines to crunchy, complex, barrel-aged versions. Although it is increasingly bottled on its own as a varietal, Encruzado still finds its way into traditional blends with Malvasia Fina, Bical, Cercial, Rabo de Ovela, Verdelho, or other indigenous Portuguese varietals. The region’s finest red grape variety is Touriga Nacional, which stars as the most important grape variety in Port, the Douro, and in the finest wines of Dão. Tinta Roriz (also known as Aragonez or Tempranillo), Jaen, Baga, Bastardo and Tinta Pinheira also figure prominently in the production of red Dão, which most often is a blend of grapes.

Traditionally, Dão was known for elegant medium-bodied red wines, but today Dão is proving to be equally adept at fashioning easy-to-drink, everyday reds as well as deep, sophisticated, age-worthy red wines. Fresh white wines of considerable distinction also emanate from Dão. Now is the time to imbibe in the fine wines of Dão from such excellent producers of both red and white Dão as Taboadella, Quinta dos Roques, and Luis Patos, among others.

Portugal: A Treasure Trove of Excellent and Affordable Wines

July 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

portuguese vineyard — CREDIT: MAURICIO ABREU/GETTY IMAGES via www.travelandleisure.com

The quality of the finest Portuguese wines has never been in doubt. For centuries the fortified wines of Portugal, most notably Port and Madeira, have been duly lauded for their quality as well as their individuality. And even today, few would argue that Vintage Port and the finest Madeira do not deserve their present reputations as two of the world’s greatest and longest lived wines. But there has always been much more to Portuguese wine than Portugal’s two iconic fortified wines or the oceans of pleasant but otherwise innocuous rosé offerings (remember Lancers and Mateus) that flooded the American market in the early 1970s. So why have we not seen more of Portugal’s excellent wines?

Sadly, Portugal like its Iberian neighbor Spain suffered political and economic instability throughout much of the 20^th century and languished behind other top wine producing nations in marketing their best wines and in improving the quality of its wines. In addition, Portuguese producers were slow to adjust to market tastes. Many of Portugal’s traditional wines were robust rustic reds that required considerable time in bottle to attract the attention of international consumers who were growing increasingly accustomed to more immediate gratification. Few Americans in particular understood the need to cellar the splendid red Garrafeira (Special Reserve) offerings from Dão and elsewhere in order to reap gustatory rewards.

However, what most delayed the appreciation of Portugal’s exceptional red wines were government regulations that called for the mandatory use of co-operatives in Dão, Portugal’s leading and most recognized appellation for still red wines. The co-operatives had the exclusive right to the grapes grown in the region and a monopoly on making the wine sold to private merchants. Although the intent of the regulations was to create a national identity for Dão and promote its quality, the effects were adverse due to a lack of competition. What resulted were many inferior, sometimes dirty wines that hardly did justice to the revered name of Dão. Fortunately for Dão and Portuguese wine in general, Portugal’s application to the European Union in 1979 prompted an end in the 1980s to such regulations and monopolistic practices. Once again quality was allowed to come to fore.

Moreover, Dão is hardly the only name to look for in Portuguese red wine. The region around Lisbon and the sprawling Alentejo also fashion excellent red and white wines. In addition to producing a treasure trove of fine wines from the Douro to the Algarve, Portugal has developed a penchant for fashioning Vinho Verde, a light, highly quaffable white wine that can be enjoyed with abandon to accompany Portugal’s splendid seafood. It’s time to rediscover and explore the treasure trove of wines that sunny Portugal has to offer. Enjoy!

Great Summer Wines to Slake the Thirst and Tantalize the Tongue

June 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

As the days warm and the blush of spring turns into the balmy days of summer, one looks for wines that will enliven the senses and quench the thirst. In this quest, one need not sacrifice flavor nor settle for insipid swill. Many excellent and affordable white and rosé wines abound to slake the thirst and tantalize the tongue.

Rosé continues to enjoy the favor of a growing legion of American wine drinkers, and that appetite shows no signs of abating. Although many of the rosé wines in the market are commercial, mass produced plonk that may temporarily quench the thirst but leave the palate wanting, it is also true that a growing number of artisan rosés from a myriad of grape varieties abound. Moreover, no longer are Grenache-based rosés from France the only game in town; numerous grape varieties and wine regions around the world have joined the rosé tidal wave and many of these newcomers are exceptional and well worth seeking out. One such rosé newbie is the superbly crafted 2020 Artesana Tannat Rosé from Uruguay. Pinot Noir rosés are increasingly in demand, too, as are superbly made sparkling wines in the form of hand-crafted rosés from Champagne, Alsace, Burgundy, and beyond. In this category, Camille Braun’s NV Crémant d’Alsace Rosé stands out for its exceptional quality and value. For a traditional still rosé, one cannot beat Domaine Houchart’s 2020 Côtes de Provence Rosé, a perennial overachiever.

A plethora of thirst quenching, palate pleasing white wines also await the savvy consumer this year from an assortment of grape varieties. Italy excels in this area with varieties such as Arneis, Garganega, Gavi, and Vermentino, which not only slake the thirst, they offer energy, flavor, and minerality, often with pinpoint precision. Malabaila in northern Italy’s Roero DOCG fashions several exciting Arneis wines with Aia Vecchia and Surrau being two consistent producers of top notch Vermentino at prices that won’t break the bank. The latter’s wines hail from the island of Sardinia and the famous Gallura DOCG. For Gavi, Stefano Massone’s San Cristoforo Gavi di Gavi is hard to beat as are all of Massone’s Gavis. And one should not overlook the finest estate bottled Soaves, made exclusively from Garganega. Inama remains a star among a growing number of authentic Soave producers.

Although Italy offers a cornucopia of interesting, high quality white wines, it is not alone. California and Oregon have toned down the oak and now fashion a bevy of un-oaked Chardonnays, including the sprightly 2020 Donati Sisters Forever Un-Oaked Chardonnay. Meanwhile, France continues to shine with a growing array of exceptional white wines. Traditional un-oaked Chardonnays from Chablis and the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy are better than ever. Sauvignon Blanc based wines from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon, and select sites along the Loire River also provide plenty of crisp, flavorful wines from a multitude of purveyors. Increasingly, Provence and the southern Rhône have joined the party, making delightful white wines with which to while away balmy summer days. The best of these are crafted dry from Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino), and of course Grenache, the southern Rhône’s ubiquitous varietal. Domaine Houchart fashions an outstanding crowd pleasing Côtes de Provence Blanc from traditional Provençal grape varieties. Enjoy!

Carmignano: The Smallest Jewel in the Tuscan Crown

May 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Carmignano is one of the oldest wine regions of Tuscany. The Etruscans and Romans tended vines in what is now Carmignano. Although this diminutive DOCG is lesser known today than its Tuscan siblings, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Chianti Classico, Carmignano has consistently fashioned distinctive red wines of exceptional quality from a mere 270 acres. Written records of Carmignano’s distinctive wines date back to the middle of the 14^th century, where documents as early as 1369 illustrate the importance of this small, but illustrious wine region. In fact, for centuries Carmignano was so highly regarded that written accounts attest to Carmignano selling for four times the cost of any other wine.

Throughout the centuries Carmignano has enjoyed a preferred status, becoming a favorite of dukes and popes. The Medicis introduced French varietals to Carmignano in the 1500s and in the early 1700s the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici established the area of Carmignano as a nursery for grape varieties, which included the planting of international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon that he had imported from France. Cosimo III also issued a decree controlling Carmignano’s production standards and sales, a precursor to today’s strict DOCG regulation. His decree is believed to be the first modern denomination of controlled origin for wine in the world. Moreover, the boundaries for Carmignano have remained the same to this day, making it also one of the smallest Italian DOCG areas.

Carmignano was awarded its own DOC in 1975, thanks to the efforts of Count Ugo Contini Bonacossi, and received its much coveted DOCG status in 1990. Given the region’s centuries old tradition of growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (centuries before the creation of Super Tuscan reds throughout the rest of Tuscany), Bordeaux varietals have long played an important role in the highly prized wines of Carmignano. Other permitted varietals include Sangiovese (which must constitute at least 50% of the blend), Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo, Merlot, Colorino, Syrah and two traditional Tuscan white varieties, Trebbiano and Malvasia. However, the zone’s white varietals rarely find their way any longer into Carmignano. Taste and see why Carmignano has been highly prized for centuries.

Languedoc: France’s Answer to Tariffs and Over-Priced Wines

April 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Languedoc is the source of many of the world’s greatest wine values, as the region continues to push the envelope in terms of both quality and value, and given the region’s propensity for fashioning bold, beautiful red wines, recently enacted tariffs on wines under 14% alcohol should have little effect on the region or American consumers’ pocketbooks. The region’s deeply colored reds are also full of antioxidants, which can boost our immune systems in these times of trouble.

For starters, Languedoc is the world’s largest single viticultural area, encompassing many appellations and distinctive sub-regions – all of which are capable of producing fine wine. This sprawling viticultural wonderland stretches all the way from the Spanish border in the southwest, within sight of the towering Pyrenees, to the banks of the Rhône River far to the northeast. Languedoc cuts a huge swath of dry coastal plain and sheltered mountains from which flow the guts and the glory of French viticulture.

The Languedoc, whose name is synonymous with the language of southern France, was the first part of ancient Gaul to be extensively planted to the vine. And long before Caesar’s Roman legions had subdued the Gallic tribes, wine was big business in Languedoc. The Phoenicians passed this way, and not surprisingly the region’s beauty and superb conditions for the cultivation of the vine did not escape the first Greek colonists who planted vines there, making Languedoc the cradle of French viticulture in the fifth century BCE. For nearly two thousand years, Languedoc remained the “big dog” and premier purveyor of wine to France and the world. However, the glory of France’s most historic wine region – the birthplace of troubadours and Provençal, the lyrical language of poetry – came to a screeching halt at end in the 19^th century with the advent of phylloxera, the most dreaded of all vine diseases.

The Renaissance of Languedoc

Throughout the late 19^th century and most of the early 20^th century, the Languedoc languished, becoming the planet’s greatest source of bulk wine, known unceremoniously as vin ordinaire, plonk, and worse. It was not until the 1970s that Languedoc began the long march back to glory. With no longer a demand at home or abroad for cheap, coarse wines, the emphasis in Languedoc shifted back to quality rather than quantity. Many of the region’s oldest vineyards were restored, premium varietals replanted, and vines began moving back to ancient hillside sites to produce less wine of greater quality. The results have initiated a veritable Renaissance in the Languedoc, especially in the favored appellations of Fitou, Corbières, Minervois, and Pic St. Loup where choice hillside vineyards have produced fine wine for millennia.

Some of Languedoc’s best and most consistent producers include Gérard Bertrand, Gourgazaud, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Mont Tauch, and Sainte Eulalie, the latter known for their exceptional red wines from Livinière, a sub-appellation within Minervois, which appears to be slated to become Languedoc’s first Grand Cru.

Syrah: The Unsung, Under Appreciated Red

March 25, 2021 by Don Lahey

Syrah, also known as Shiraz, is the most under-appreciated and unsung red grape variety in America, despite the varietal’s inherent quality, incredible value, and the availability of legions of great Syrah-based wines from around the world. This begs the question: Why is Syrah not more widely appreciated?

Syrah lives in the shadow of America’s current penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon, even though many Cabernets are grossly over-priced and underperforming. And of course, in recent years, there is sexy, hedonistic Pinot Noir to contend with, a wine that can be immediately gracious and charming. So where does that leave Syrah/Shiraz, a grape with two names and a proven track record that has been around a lot longer than most varietals, even though Syrah has never been better than it is today? It leaves Syrah the underdog to contend for a place at the table with the two other members of the varietal triumvirate. It also offers savvy consumers the opportunity to enjoy world class red wine for a lot less than a mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.

If doubt still remains as to Syrah’s preeminence, consider the greatest, most revered red wines of Australia, including the iconic Penfold’s Grange, stem from Syrah. And what about Hermitage and Côte Rôtie from France? They are all 100% Syrah with no shortage of greatness there! And let’s not forget the iconic Château Beaucastel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fame: its primary varietal is Syrah. Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, France, South Africa, and Washington State all fashion a bevy of beautiful Syrah-based wines, too, many from old vines some of which claim a century or more of age.

Although Syrah/Shiraz has traveled the world, France remains the spiritual home of Syrah. Chapoutier, Chevalier, Clape, Guigal, and Jaboulet are just a few of the many French producers of outstanding Syrah. Australia crafts a plethora of fabulous Shiraz wine, too, many at a fraction of the cost of France’s most expensive Syrahs. Tried and true Australian purveyors such as Chapel Hill, Nugan, and Tait make world-class Syrah at prices most of us can afford. Other New World producers put the quality in the bottle, too. California wineries Beckmen and Stolpman consistently turn out complex, age-worthy Syrahs at half of the price of Cabernet Sauvignons of equal quality. Although relative newcomers to fashioning superb Syrah, Chile’s Casas del Bosque and Casa Silva wineries craft excellent Syrahs as does South Africa’s Reyneke estate, among others. Why pay more for less? The wonderful world of Syrah awaits!

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