Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Syrah: The Unsung, Under Appreciated Red

March 25, 2021 by Don Lahey

Syrah, also known as Shiraz, is the most under-appreciated and unsung red grape variety in America, despite the varietal’s inherent quality, incredible value, and the availability of legions of great Syrah-based wines from around the world. This begs the question: Why is Syrah not more widely appreciated?

Syrah lives in the shadow of America’s current penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon, even though many Cabernets are grossly over-priced and underperforming. And of course, in recent years, there is sexy, hedonistic Pinot Noir to contend with, a wine that can be immediately gracious and charming. So where does that leave Syrah/Shiraz, a grape with two names and a proven track record that has been around a lot longer than most varietals, even though Syrah has never been better than it is today? It leaves Syrah the underdog to contend for a place at the table with the two other members of the varietal triumvirate. It also offers savvy consumers the opportunity to enjoy world class red wine for a lot less than a mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.

If doubt still remains as to Syrah’s preeminence, consider the greatest, most revered red wines of Australia, including the iconic Penfold’s Grange, stem from Syrah. And what about Hermitage and Côte Rôtie from France? They are all 100% Syrah with no shortage of greatness there! And let’s not forget the iconic Château Beaucastel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fame: its primary varietal is Syrah. Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, France, South Africa, and Washington State all fashion a bevy of beautiful Syrah-based wines, too, many from old vines some of which claim a century or more of age.

Although Syrah/Shiraz has traveled the world, France remains the spiritual home of Syrah. Chapoutier, Chevalier, Clape, Guigal, and Jaboulet are just a few of the many French producers of outstanding Syrah. Australia crafts a plethora of fabulous Shiraz wine, too, many at a fraction of the cost of France’s most expensive Syrahs. Tried and true Australian purveyors such as Chapel Hill, Nugan, and Tait make world-class Syrah at prices most of us can afford. Other New World producers put the quality in the bottle, too. California wineries Beckmen and Stolpman consistently turn out complex, age-worthy Syrahs at half of the price of Cabernet Sauvignons of equal quality. Although relative newcomers to fashioning superb Syrah, Chile’s Casas del Bosque and Casa Silva wineries craft excellent Syrahs as does South Africa’s Reyneke estate, among others. Why pay more for less? The wonderful world of Syrah awaits!

Wine Trends: What’s In, What’s Out, What Not to Miss in 2021

February 5, 2021 by Don Lahey

In 2021 in the time of COVID, when nothing seems normal and little makes sense, one thing is clear: Americans are drinking wine. And not just any wine. They are drinking good wine. Retail sales of wines costing $25.00 per bottle are booming. Sparkling wines, both domestic and imported, made by the Champagne Method or Méthode Traditionnelle continue their upward trajectory. Who would have thought? Is it the anticipation of a vaccine or simply the notion that between the disasters and catastrophes of the past year one must seize the moment and celebrate life? Could that be what’s driving sparkling wine sales? Or have we finally realized that sparkling can be enjoyed any time? Rosé sparkling wines are all the rage, too, and the sales of still rosé wines remain robust historically, though tariffs and a weak dollar are forcing consumers to consider the many excellent and more affordable alternatives to French and domestic rosés from lands down under, including Chile and South Africa. Red and white wines with a strong retail presence are doing remarkably well, too. So what’s down and out or not faring well?

Wines that are mainly sold on premise, especially very high dollar European and domestic whites and reds from grower producers have taken a hit, including Chardonnays, Cabernets, Burgundies, etc. Quality, value, and availability are what consumers are looking for. The silver lining for savvy consumers is the availability of many excellent wines, wines whose names may not be on the tip of everyone’s tongue or serve as their everyday go-to wine. So what’s not to miss in 2021?

Bordeaux continues to turn out excellent white and red wines in all price ranges from a run of fine vintages. The Médoc, Graves, and Saint Émilion, as well as many Petits Châteaux have produced some of their finest wines to date in the 2015-2019 vintages. Savvy consumers looking for exceptional quality and value also need look no further than Italy for a bevy of extraordinary reds from the excellent 2015-2018 vintages. Amarone, Barolo, Carmignano, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino, and the spate of Super Tuscans now available in America are simply delicious. Recent vintages in Italy have produced excellent white wines as well. Australia, Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay have all upped their games recently, too, with delicious Grenache, Syrah, Carmenère, Malbec, Tannat, and more. The same can be said for South Africa for state of the art Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet, Pinotage, and Syrah.

In short, the more consumers are willing to broaden their horizons, the greater the reward that awaits. Even in the time of COVID, the Golden Age of wine is here and now. Wine has never been better than it is today. With an open mindset and a willingness to break out of the same old, same old, wine lovers are sure to find an abundance of crowd pleasing wines that won’t break the bank. Enjoy!

Champagne: The Perfect Wine Any Time

January 22, 2021 by Don Lahey

Most Americans relegate Champagne and other fine sparkling wines to special occasions: Thanksgiving dinner, Christmas, weddings, late night holiday parties, New Year’s Eve celebrations, etc. Frankly, Champagne deserves better. Here’s why.

Champagne, the original and finest sparkling wine that hails from the ancient province of Champagne, enjoys a reputation as the “Belle of the Ball,” the perfect aperitif, a wine of conviviality and good cheer, but there is more to Champagne than frivolity. Champagne works its magic day and night all year round. It also pairs beautifully with a host of foods, which has earned it a reputation as a wine for all seasons and occasions. Long ago European wine drinkers discovered the many pleasures of Champagne and consume far more Champagne than Americans, both with and without a meal. So why not discover the pleasure of Champagne by pouring a glass on a cold, rainy day as well as a warm, sunny day, or serve it at a mid-week meal as well as at a party? Isn’t every day meant to be celebrated in some way?

Why limit the pleasure of good bubbly to a few occasions or just one time of year? Even better, prepare a mid-week meal around a good bottle of Champagne and see why French and Italians consume so much more of this magical wine than Americans. Champagne makes glad the heart as it cleanses the palate and enlivens the soul. For these reasons and more I enjoy Champagne at all times of the year and twice as often during the holidays. I especially enjoy it as an aperitif during a fun-filled evening with friends in the company of tasty morsels. So, what are you waiting for? Make mine Brut Champagne, and make today special.

Don

Why Serve Wine at Thanksgiving

November 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

In 2020, gratitude may well be the least appreciated of all virtues. This November many of us may not be exactly “feeling the love,” and when asked what we are thankful for this Thanksgiving, a gracious much may flow out of our mouths that doesn’t exactly sound like gratitude. Yes, we are all tired of COVID, the crisis, the illness, the masks, the economic and social destruction it reaps, not to mention, hurricanes, wildfires, the political and socio-economic divide, and everything else that polarizes; yet, we are still alive. We are still capable of looking at what we have and what we can do to make this world a better place, if we choose.

Yes, gratitude may, indeed, be the least appreciated of all virtues. We may bemoan the ravages of COVID, the devastating wildfires throughout California wine country and much of the American West, the absence of college football, and the list goes on, but we are still Americans. We have a day set aside to remind us of gratitude, a day on which to stop and pause, a day set aside to be anything except ordinary. Instead of being consumed by parades, football, and the specter of Black Friday, all of which have nearly obliterated the meaning of Thanksgiving, let us give thanks. What better way to give thanks than to seize the opportunity to help those less fortunate, share food and wine with family and friends, and give thanks to all who have made the food we eat and the wine we drink possible.

For me, Thanksgiving is a reminder that faith, family, friends, health, and an abundance of fine wine should never be taken for granted. It’s a day to express gratitude by bringing the finest wines from my cellar to share with everyone who partakes, a time to remind myself of all that I have and what I can still do, rather than a time to lament what I don’t have or can no longer do. Thanksgiving reacquaints me with all that is good in life, and that includes an abundance of fine wine. I am sincerely grateful that I don’t have to drink a wine I don’t like. Although, I am still asked to taste some less desirable wines from time to time, I don’t have to drink them. More importantly, Thanksgiving is a day of celebration and a time to share the finest wines with family, friends and whoever else shows up, either for dinner or simply to say hello and wish me a Happy Thanksgiving. This is why I serve wine at Thanksgiving. So this Thanksgiving, may we all express gratitude, share good wine, and all else that is good in life. Happy Thanksgiving!

Cabernet Sauvignon: The World’s Reigning Grape Varietal

October 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most widely cultivated of the world’s red grape varieties. For centuries it was thought to be an ancient varietal, but DNA studies conducted in the 1990s revealed that Cabernet Sauvignon is not nearly as old as was once thought. Moreover, what is even more startling is that Cabernet Sauvignon is actually the offspring of Cabernet Franc (a red variety) and Sauvignon Blanc (a white variety).

The origin of Cabernet Sauvignon has traditionally been attributed to Bordeaux, where it holds court with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and even Carmenère. The combination of any three or more of these varieties is what is known in Europe as the Bordeaux Blend or in California and elsewhere as a Meritage selection. Some evidence suggests that northern Spain, just south of the Pyrenees, may one day lay legitimate claim to being an original site of the planet’s most important red grape variety as well. However, Bordeaux rightly claims to be the disseminator of this noble red grape because from Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon has traveled the world far and wide.

In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon is the heart and soul of the finest Médoc wines and a leading player in nearly all of the finest red wines of Graves. Châteaux Haut-Brion, Margaux, Latour, and Lafite are all Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. However, even in Bordeaux appellations where Cabernet is King, it is usually blended with Merlot and or other traditional Bordeaux varietals. By nature, Cabernet Sauvignon is a thick skinned grape that requires a longer maturation than most red grape varieties, which makes blending it a natural choice in winemaking regions such as Bordeaux where climate conditions are variable.

Cabernet Sauvignon truly thrives under warm, even hot, semi arid conditions, which is one reason why this noble variety has been extensively and successfully cultivated in Australia, Argentina, California, Chile, South Africa, and elsewhere. Today, Cabernet Sauvignon is unquestionably California’s most prestigious red varietal, both in consummate quality as well as price. California’s Napa, Sonoma, and Lake Counties are generally acknowledged to produce the New World’s finest Cabernet Sauvignons. Select areas of, Australia, Argentina, Chile, and South Africa also fashion a growing number of world class Cabernet Sauvignons.

In flavor profile Cabernet Sauvignon can vary considerably, depending upon climate and terroir. However, blackberry and blackcurrant (often referred to as cassis) flavors are most often associated with this premium variety. Earthy and herbaceous aromas, such cedar, eucalyptus, graphite, and tobacco are also common. Moreover, of all the world’s red grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon has the greatest propensity for successful ageing. Cabernet Sauvignon also contains high amounts of antioxidants and resveratrol, which make its wines some one of the most healthful of all. Enjoy!

What’s the World’s Greatest Red Wine Value?

September 15, 2020 by Don Lahey

Carmenère, Chile’s emblematic red wine, could certainly lay claim to being the world’s greatest red wine value. Why? Of all the Bordeaux varietals and South American wines, Carmenère stands out to me as the most distinctive and enjoyable, especially in the first five years of life which is when the vast majority of all wines are consumed. And as an added bonus, well made Carmenère ages gracefully to perfection for up to a decade or more. Critics and major wine publications have sung the praises of Carmenère, especially from top producers such as Casa Silva, Carmen, Casas del Bosque, and Errazuriz, and every time I bring a fine Carmenère to a tasting or share a bottle with friends, Carmenère is a hit and those happy recipients inevitably add “This must be expensive,” before sheepishly inquiring as to the cost. When told no, most Carmenères are quite reasonable, they wonder why. That’s when I go to work.

When I ask why they have never tried Carmenère or don’t drink more of it, the usual retorts sound something like these: “I didn’t know what it was” or “I never had one before, so I was afraid to try it.” A few others add “It seemed too reasonably priced, so I didn’t think it would be very good.” Ignorance isn’t always bliss. When could any of us ever drink a label, a price tag, or anyone else’s palate and be truly satisfied?

Let’s talk Carmenère and dispel the mystery surrounding the grape. It is safe to say that Carmenère is close to being the missing link of Bordeaux varietals, and that link now thrives in Chile. Although still one of the six legal red Bordeaux grape varietals and in evidence at a few Bordeaux châteaux among a sea of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot (the other five varietals that comprise red Bordeaux), Carmenère has not figured prominently in Bordeaux since the advent of phylloxera in the 19^th century. Brought to Chile in the 19^th century before the dreaded vine disease, Carmenère was mistaken for a clone of Merlot until the 1980s, and perhaps this is the reason it languished for more than a century in relative obscurity, though it’s hard to believe that one of Bordeaux’s six legal red grape varietals could be misidentified for so long, but then the truth is nearly always stranger than fiction. So, what does Carmenère have going for it? Plenty! Let’s start with Carmenère’s deep purple color, followed by a hedonistic aroma: savory red and black fruit flavors, deft touches of bell pepper, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. But best of all, Carmenère’s tannins are smoother than those of Cabernet Sauvignon and its other Bordeaux compatriots. Most of all, people enjoy it, especially after it’s had a few minutes to breathe. One would be wise to never judge a Carmenère on first sip; any good Carmenère needs a few minutes of aeration to undergo metamorphosis in the glass. One doesn’t have to wait years to enjoy this varietal, but allow it a little time in the glass to collect itself, and enjoy!

Salud!
Don

Wildfires Ravage California Wine Country

September 1, 2020 by Don Lahey

Unless you are one of the hundreds of thousands of people fleeing the flames throughout California wine country, you cannot imagine the intensity of these blazes and the destruction ignited by more than 20,000 dry lightning strikes. As of this writing, this latest round of seasonal California wildfires has claimed seven lives, destroyed 1,200 homes and businesses, burned more than 800,000 acres, and forced mandatory evacuations in the San Francisco Bay area, Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Solano counties just as the grape harvest began. The heavy smoke from these fires threatens to taint the grapes that remain on the vines, and it is already creating the planet’s worst air pollution throughout the American West.

Even more frightening is the added specter of Covid-19, which impedes firefighters, first responders, and rescue efforts. And with the need to wear masks and the necessity of social distancing to prevent the spread of the disease, the question arises: How do we support essential workers and house and support the thousands of people whose homes and businesses are under siege? In past years, many of the wineries themselves opened their facilities and fed the multitudes who lost homes and had nowhere else to go. In the midst of the Covid crisis, few wineries or public shelters have space to house more than a tiny number of those seeking safety from the fires, and many of the wineries and vineyards are themselves threatened and are closed.

Spawned by more than 11,000 lightning strikes, the L.N.U. Lightning Complex (the largest and most widespread complex of fires) continues to ravage Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Solano counties, the source of many of California’s iconic wines. Other areas throughout Central and Southern California have also been affected. It is one thing to be aware of a crisis, it is another to take action. What can you and I do to help? Plenty. Although few of us are equipped to fight fires or are too distant to offer shelter, we can support California growers and producers by making a concerted effort to buy and consume California wine, especially wines grown and produced by small family wineries who have the most to lose. And when California winemakers were asked how consumers and the general public could help, they responded by saying “Firefighters are truly on the front lines fighting these fires. They are risking their lives to save others’ lives and property. Helping injured firefighters and the families of those who have lost their lives would be the best way to honor these heroes.”

If you would like to help, please consider making a donation to the Wildland Firefighter Foundation, a non-profit that is active in all states, by going to www.wffoundation.org. The Wildland Firefighter Foundation has been assisting firefighters and their families since 1994 and has been especially supportive of California wildland firefighters and their families, including those who fought the deadly Camp fire that destroyed Paradise. Any support you can render will go a long way to helping those who help the rest of us stay safe.

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