Wine Education Archives - Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Argentina: Where Quality and Variety Abound

September 15, 2024 by Don Lahey

Argentina has long been one of the world’s leading producers and consumers of wine. This sprawling nation, which contains some of the world’s most diverse geography: tropical jungle, barren desert, towering snow-capped mountains and windswept deserted islands that herald Antarctica, is the world’s fifth largest producer of wine and the planet’s third largest consumer of the fruit of the vine, placing it just behind Italy and France. As an interesting comparison, Argentina consumes more than five times the amount of wine per capita as does the United States. Moreover, Argentina is no longer just the planet’s premier source of Malbec; it is increasingly a treasure chest of other world-class red and white wines.

Although Argentina has cultivated the vine since the arrival of the first Spanish missionaries in the 16^th century, the modern tale of wine in Argentina really begins with the Italian migration of the late 19^th century. Sparked by political strife and economic stagnation in their homeland, many Italian growers and winemakers headed for Argentina. Settling in the dry, rain-starved Mendoza at the base of the Andes, Italian immigrants began to sluice the snow waters from the mountains onto their vineyards, causing the desert to bloom. In less than a century, Mendoza, a state approximately the size of Illinois, has become Argentina’s leading wine producing region, accounting for 70% of the nation’s wine production and more than half of all the wine made in South America.

Driven by Argentina’s seemingly insatiable thirst for wine, as well as the burgeoning worldwide demand for fine wine, especially well-made reds, Argentina’s Mendoza alone comprises 700,000 acres of vines, and is still growing. The vast majority of wine from the arid, nearly insect-free environment of Mendoza is red, but the quality and variety of both red and white wines continues to grow exponentially throughout Argentina thanks to the Catena family, scions Laura at Luca and Ernesto at Tikal, Roberto de la Mota at Mendel, Hervé Chagneau and Anne-Caroline Biancheri at Antucura, Paul Hobbs, and Jacques and Francois Lurton, among others.

Savvy North American consumers take note: Malbec is no longer Argentina’s only game in town. The once sleeping giant now crafts a variety of high quality red and white wines. Although incredible Malbec remains Argentina’s calling card, exceptional Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon abound; and, in recent years, Argentina has made great strides in the production of white wines, too, most notably with Chardonnay, Semillon and Torrontes. Viva Argentina!

Salud!
Don

Armenia: Back to the Future

August 15, 2024 by Don Lahey

Fine wines emanate from far and wide. No one country or wine region has a monopoly on quality wines, though only one country, Armenia, can rightly claim to be the birthplace of wine. Even more importantly, Armenia, has consistently fashioned quality wine longer than anywhere else on earth. In spite of centuries of domination by larger neighbors and genocidal attempts to extinguish Armenia and its people, Armenia is alive and well and so are its wines. And nowhere is wine more important and its land more suitable for the cultivation of the vine than Armenia.

Located in the Caucasus Mountains between Asia and Europe, Armenia is the site of the Earth’s oldest winemaking facility, the Areni-1 cave complex. Recently unearthed, the 6,100-year-old caves contain definitive archaeological evidence of advanced winemaking, including the possible use of sulfur as a preservative. Moreover, archeological excavations carried out in the 1940s reveal that as early as the first millennium B.C. during the Kingdom of Van, present day Armenia was western Asia’s leading wine producing region. Longer than anywhere else on earth, Armenia has continuously produced fine wine from indigenous grape varieties, a practice that continues, allowing Armenia to again attract the world’s attention for its venerable wines.

Once again, Armenia’s ancient red and white indigenous grape varieties dominate the country’s fine wine production with Areni, Haghtanak, Milagh, Khatoun Kharj, Tozot, and Voskehat all making a comeback. These grapes whose names are difficult for outsiders to pronounce remain relatively unknown outside of Armenia, yet they rightly deserve recognition beyond their native land. Taste and enjoy!

Salud!
Don

Carmenère: Greater Than Ever and Still Undervalued

April 15, 2024 by Don Lahey

Carmenère, one of Bordeaux’s oldest grape varietals and Chile’s emblematic grape, continues to outperform its South American rivals. However, it rarely receives the recognition in North America that it deserves and remains undervalued, which makes it a boon to savvy consumers. Of all South American wines, Carmenère clearly stands out as the most distinctive and enjoyable, especially when consumed in the first five years of life, which is when the vast majority of all wines are consumed. Even more impressive, well-made Carmenères age gracefully to perfection for up to a decade or more in bottle. Increasingly, critics and writers sing the praises of Carmenère, especially from top producers such as Casa Silva, Casas del Bosque, Carmen, and Errazuriz, and every time we serve a Carmenère at a tasting or share it with friends, it’s a hit with red wine drinkers, both young and old. When asked why they don’t drink more Carmenère, the usual retorts still sound something like these: “I didn’t know what it was” or “I never had one before, so I was afraid to try it.” Adam should have exercised a bit more caution when handed the apple, but when it comes to wine, we implore you to be more adventuresome, courageous, even audacious!

Why hasn’t Carmenère taken the wine world by storm? For one, Carmenère is close to being the missing link of Bordeaux varietals, and it has only been since the 1980’s that DNA testing ascertained that Chile’s distinctive red grape is indeed Carmenère. Carmenère’s origins go back many centuries, and it is still one of the six legal red Bordeaux grape varietals for Classified Bordeaux. Carmenère, like Malbec, figured prominently in Bordeaux until the advent of phylloxera in the 19^th century. However, post phylloxera, the prolific, earlier ripening Merlot became Bordeaux’s dominant varietal followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Brought to Chile in the 19^th century before the dreaded vine disease, phylloxera, Carmenère was mistaken for a clone of Merlot until the 1980’s. This surely accounts for Carmenère languishing for so long in relative obscurity, though it’s hard to believe that one of Bordeaux’s six legal red grape varietals could be misidentified for so long; but then the truth is nearly always stranger than fiction. Political and economic instability in Chile until the 1990’s is another reason Carmenère is a relative late comer to our shores. Lastly, some of the first Carmenère wines sent to the US were under-ripe and not all indicative of what this premium grape is capable of being.

So, what does Carmenère have going for it? Plenty! Let’s start with Carmenère’s deep purple color, followed by a hedonistic aroma: savory red and black fruit flavors, deft touches of bell pepper, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. But, best of all, Carmenère’s tannins are smoother than those of Cabernet Sauvignon and its Bordeaux compatriots. Most of all, people enjoy it, especially after it’s had a few minutes to breathe. The only caveat with Carmenère is this: never judge a Carmenère on first sip. Any good Carmenère needs at least a few minutes of aeration to undergo metamorphosis and blossom in the glass. Yet, one doesn’t have to wait years to enjoy this varietal. Just allow Carmenère a little time in the glass to collect itself, and enjoy!

What to Look for in March 2024

March 5, 2024 by Don Lahey

In March, The International Wine of the Month Club’s Premier Series is proud to offer members four special wines from France and Italy. This month’s Premier Series opens with a Piedmontese classic, Seghesio’s 2021 Barbera d’Alba, a downright juicy, scrumptious wine. Intense ruby in color and redolent with the scents of ripe Bing cherries, wild violets, and aromatic spices, the 2021 Seghesio Barbera d’Alba captivates both the eyes and the nose. In the mouth, the wine’s bright, concentrated fruit flavors burst with vivacity. Juicy ripe cherry, bergamot, and balsamic notes ingratiate the palate. This is a full-bodied gracious Barbera d’Alba that wears its 15% ABV lightly, while providing a delightful, lip-smacking experience from start to finish. Enjoy!

Our next feature this month is the 2022 Sallier de La Tour Inzolia. Produced from Sicily’s autochthonous Inzolia grape variety (aka Insolia), the 2022 Sallier de La Tour Inzolia is a bright, festive wine which sports a slightly golden hue reminiscent of the dazzling Sicilian sun and the formidable light that illuminates the alluring, exotic island of Sicily. Sallier de La Tour’s 2022 Inzolia exudes an airy aromatic perfume, which beautifully reveals the sensual side of Sicilian wine. Fragrant, subtle and faintly spicy, Sallier de La Tour’s 2022 Inzolia first greets the palate with a fresh open smile, but once in the mouth it expresses a deeper layer of fruit, spice and stone – all of which enliven the senses and will make you beg for more. Although neither big nor brawny, buttery nor oaky, this dry white wine captivates the palate and refreshes the senses with a combination of gentle ripe fruit, a hint of cinnamon, and a touch of exotica, the latter affording the wine – as well as the mysterious land of Sicily – a special allure.

This month’s next feature is the exceptional 2019 Château La Gabarre Bordeaux Supérieur, traditional blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The 2019 Château La Gabarre Bordeaux Supérieur is a dense, concentrated Right Bank Bordeaux, which puts it in the company of much pricier wines from nearby Saint Émilion and Lalande de Pomerol. Deeply colored and scented with the fragrances of red currants, wild berries, cacao, and forest woodlands, the bouquet of the 2019 Château La Gabarre Bordeaux Supérieur portends the body and depth of flavor inherent in this well-made red. It offers plenty of flavor throughout and finishes with verve and vigor thanks to a healthy dose of rich tannins. Enjoy!

Rounding out this month’s Premier Series is the 2021 Colpaola Verdicchio di Matelica DOC, a wine that cuts a fine figure in the glass with its brilliant sun-struck color, including Verdicchio’s telltale flash of green. Subtle scents of spring flowers, orchard fruits, dried fruit, and raw almonds waft from the glass to greet the nose. In the mouth, the wine’s fresh fruit flavors mingle with subtle floral tones, an uplifting minerality, and a purity born of organic grapes which leaves the palate fresh and energized. In the 2021 Colpaola Verdicchio di Matelica, you won’t find any flabby overbearing butter or oak tones, or harsh sulfite burn. Instead, the 2021 Colpaola Verdicchio di Matelica exhibits pure natural charm. The mature 2021 Colpaola Verdicchio di Matelica reveals the definition and flavor for which the Verdicchio di Matelica DOC is renowned. Enjoy!

The International Wine of the Month Club’s Collectors Series is proud to deliver this month three truly world-class wines from around the world. Leading this month’s Collectors Series is the highly prized 2018 Seghesio Castelletto Barolo DOCG. If ever there was a Barolo to dispel the myth that “the king of wines” is despotic and unapproachable in its youth or it is somehow undrinkable before its 10th birthday, the 2018 Seghesio Castelletto Barolo is just such a wine. Sporting a deep garnet color and endowed with an elegant and entrancing bouquet, the stylish 2018 Seghesio Castelletto Barolo offers up a complex floral aroma: delicate rose and violet scents mingled with a touch of exotic spice and forest woodlands captivate the nose. The wine’s heavenly scents carry through to the palate, providing plenty of mid-palate appeal and nuanced flavors to savor, all of which culminate in a long, lovely finish Elegant, but by no means lean, the 2018 Seghesio Barolo possesses a healthy dose of velvety, well-integrated tannins undergirding its noble stature, which should assure a decade of exceptional drinking pleasure. Enjoy!

Next up is the exceptional and rare 2022 Taboadella Encruzado Reserva. Although always a vigorous full-bodied white wine, the Taboadella Encruzado Reserva is especially concentrated and vivacious in the 2022 vintage – a wine that truly enlivens the senses. Moreover, the 2022 Taboadella Encruzado Reserva shines with crystalline brilliance. As a beautifully textured wine, it delivers subtle fruit flavors with laser-like precision. The wine’s pear, white peach, and citrus flavors are imbued with a touch of spice and a fine patina from partial oak ageing. Fresh and firm to the finish, the youthful and complex 2022 Taboadella Encruzado Reserva races across the palate to a smashing finish. Enjoy!

Completing this month’s Collectors Series is Domaine Chamfort’s 2021 Vacqueyras. This classic Vacqueyras is a traditional blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 15% Mourvèdre from vines in excess of 50 years of age. It is regally colored and concentrated, and truly a wine to ward off the cold and rain. It offers a deep-down aroma of dark fruits, heady Provencal herbs, pepper and spice, all of which re-emerge in the mouth to warm the palate and let the Provencal sun shine in. Polished, pure, and long on flavor, this youthful Vacqueyras captures the essence of Provence – beauty, warmth, and pleasure. Enjoy!

France: A Treasure Trove of Fine Wines at Affordable Prices

January 15, 2024 by Don Lahey

When asked what country comes to mind when wine begs the conversation, invariably the answer will be France. Most consumers and critics consider France the home of the most celebrated and expensive wines on earth. Names such as Châteaux Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild, Domaine Romanée Conti, Dom Perignon, and Guigal are known the world over for their quality, style, and luxury. These wines hail from such recognizable and influential regions as Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and the Rhône Valley. Nonetheless, and despite the aristocratic and prestigious pedigree of France’s top wines and producers, France and its many magnificent wines are much more than a handful of famous names and places. In fact, France – the world’s second leading producer of wine – remains a treasure trove of fine wines at affordable prices from a myriad of appellations, both renowned and obscure, if only one knows where to look.

In France, geography is king and dirt has been hailed as destiny; yet, what often sets one celebrated estate apart from its neighbor is not always the quality of the wine produced at the properties, but rather a tiny vineyard road, a humble rock wall, or a reputation established a hundred years ago or more. While a Frenchman will never discount the importance of terroir (the soil, climate, exposure, and total environment of a wine) in the production of fine wine, savvy consumers know that there is no substitute for meticulous winemaking and vineyard management, regardless of terroir. Consequently, many of France’s enological treasures need not cost a king’s ransom for one important reason: there is no shortage of quality wine makers or wine in France.

Today, more fine wines flow from France than ever before. From Alsace in the north to Cassis on the Mediterranean Sea and Minervois in the far south, or Midi as the South of France is often called, France still dazzles the wine consuming world with both the quality and variety of her wines. Today, even a famous château or domaine cannot turn out a mediocre wine and continue to thrive solely upon an age-old reputation. The present generation of young winemakers and vineyard owners in France continue to push the envelope in terms of quality. So in addition to the traditional big names, many unknown vignerons both in the well-established communes and even in what were once thought to be lesser appellations are fashioning wines of distinction, and we, the consumers, are the fortunate beneficiaries of this phenomenon. This month we invite you to a taste of France from wineries great and small, but all on the cutting edge. Salut!

Graves: The Oldest and Most Historic Wine of Bordeaux

December 15, 2023 by Don Lahey

Graves is the oldest and most historic of all the Bordeaux communes; yet, it’s superlative wines remain the least known among American oenophiles. Before Latour, Lafite, Margaux, and the rest of the well-known names of the Médoc existed or had even seen a cultivated vine, there was Graves. In fact, Graves has been the home of cultivated vines since as early as the 1^st century AD, due at least in part to the Romans’ inability to grow other crops in the graveled soil from which the name Graves is derived. The stone and gravel deposits are vestiges of the last Ice Age, a bane to most farmers but a boon to grape growers, whose vines struggle deep into the thin porous soil to draw life and subtle complex flavors from the nutrients below.

The wines of Graves also appear to be the first Bordeaux wines to be exported, with archeological evidence that Roman garrisons in Britain were the happy recipients of Bordeaux’s quintessential wines. And by the early 12^th century, Graves was the most sought after wine in England and beyond for its quality as well as its proximity to the city and port of Bordeaux itself, which lay just a few kilometers from Graves.

Today, the northern section of Graves called Pessac Léognon must battle the urban sprawl that has broken out of the confines of the city of Bordeaux and spread to the nearby suburbs of Talence and Pessac. A little south of these towns lies the pastoral heart of Graves, a pretty, rural country where vineyards mingle with pastures and pine forests. Here, life remains wedded to the land and the joys of the vine.

Graves is rightly famous for both its red and white wines. At their best, the red wines of Graves are unsurpassed for their aromatic beauty as well as their smooth, rich flavors. Earthy, fragrant aromas that resemble cedar, a classic cigar box scent, black currant, and tobacco emanate from red Graves and form a bouquet that is frequently described as enchanting and profound. The legendary Chateau Haut-Brion, Thomas Jefferson’s favorite red wine, remains the most illustrious of the appellation’s wines. Moreover, fine red Graves is often the supplest of Bordeaux reds on the palate. Its cépage is an artful blend, comprised almost exclusively of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.

White Graves is a dry, quite aromatic wine that emits great freshness along with substantial flavor. Perhaps the greatest event in Graves in the last quarter century has been the revolution that has taken hold among the producers of white Graves. Once an obscure and expensive proposition that did not always travel well, contemporary white Graves has taken on vigor, personality and even an exotic edge that underscores the physiological ripeness that was often absent in white Graves in years past. The primary white Bordeaux varietals are Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The finest white Graves rival the greatest white wines of France.

Spain’s Ribera del Duero: The Source of the World’s Greatest Tempranillo

November 15, 2023 by Don Lahey

Located in the heart of Spain in the ancient realm of Castile and León, Ribera del Duero has been a center of wine production for thousands of years. Today, Ribera del Duero remains one of the most important wine regions in Spain, as it is the spiritual home of Tempranillo, Spain’s most venerable red grape variety and the source of many of Spain’s greatest wines. Here the iconic Tempranillo, also known locally as Tinto Fino and Tinta del País, reaches its pinnacle and demonstrates to the world its inherent virtue.

Ribera del Duero occupies the hills and high meseta to the northeast of the city of Valladolid and stretches out along the Duero River, Spain’s most beloved waterway. Not surprisingly, the region draws its name from the venerable Duero that plays an important role in the region’s terroir. It seems that the soil of Ribera del Duero bears more than a passing resemblance to that of France’s Burgundy, with a wide range of chalk, clay, marl and gravel, combined together in varying degrees of prominence. However, whereas Burgundy’s soil complexity results from plate tectonics, the soil in Ribera del Duero results from the Duero’s erosion through the sedimentary layers of the Castilian meseta. The Duero River may likely play a role, as well, in moderating the rather harsh continental climate of the region, an area known for its dry, hot summers and cold winters. Add altitude (2,500-3,300 feet) and the intense luminosity of the Spanish meseta to the region’s exemplary terroir, and it becomes apparent that Ribera del Duero possesses all the attributes needed to showcase the beauty of Spain’s quintessential grape variety.

Although Tempranillo imparts both a heart and soul to the wines of Ribera del Duero, the Denominación de Origen (DO) does permit small quantities of other grape varieties to appear in the appellation’s red wines, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Grenache (aka Garnacha). There is, however, no requirement that Ribera del Duero contain any grape other than Tempranillo. Consequently, there is no one magic formula. However, what is certain is that worldwide demand for the great wines of Ribera del Duero will continue to grow as the cadre of astute producers in the zone continually push the envelope on quality. Moreover, the relative value of the voluptuous red wines of Ribera del Duero remain second to none, and they more than handsomely reward those patient enough to allow the finest red wines of Ribera del Duero a few years in bottle and ample aeration prior to serving. Enjoy!

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