Vol. 8 No. 1

Standard Selection - (1) White, (1) Red
Ca dei Frati I Frati Lugana 2003 – Italy
Muri Veteres Jumilla 2003 – Spain

White Wines Only Featured Selection
Morgadío Albariño Rías Baixas 2003 – Spain

Red Wines Only Featured Selection
Three Valleys South Australia Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 – Australia

Ca dei Frati I Frati Lugana 2003 – Italy

The hills above Lake Garda are almost as pretty as the white wine that flows from its sunny southern slopes: an aromatic, charming flavorful wine that goes by the name of Lugana. Nestled near the picturesque Sirmione peninsula, Ca dei Frati is the quintessential property in a stunningly beautiful region of northern Italy that poets and popes have likened to Eden, and then there is the estate’s remarkable I Frati Lugana – the most seductive and delightful of white wines.

For four generations the Dal Cero family has grown grapes and fashioned wines of legendary status from their modest 44 acre estate. Today, Igino, Franco, and Ana Maria Dal Cero run this impeccable azienda agricola. They combine the joys of tradition with the benefits of modern viticulture. In recent years they have modernized the old family cellar and introduced new equipment. They have also developed a new trellis system for their grapes that has further improved the estate’s vineyards. Furthermore, the present Dal Cero trio has consented to selling at least a portion of their outstanding Lugana outside of Italy, which happily allows us to offer club members one of the wine world’s most unique and venerable treasures.

Like most Lugana producers along the shores of Lake Garda, Ca dei Frati makes a small amount of a charming red wine and a tiny bit of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, too, along with its more famous offering. Nevertheless, it is the estate’s legendary Lugana I Frati, made from low yields of the Lugana grape (the local name for the region’s particular clone of Trebbiano) that has bestowed nearly cult status upon this otherwise modest family run winery. So enamored are the local cognoscenti and now the growing number of international clientele that rarely is there even a few bottles of I Frati available at the cellar door: the estate’s Lugana is sold out immediately upon release. So as to not totally disappoint visiting hopefuls, the Dal Cero family has frescoed the cellar walls, with the idea that if visitors cannot revel in the beauty of the family’s wine, at least they can enjoy the artwork.

In addition to Ca dei Frati’s hallmark Lugana I Frati, the Dal Ceros also fashion another outstanding, but less traditional Lugana: Brolletino. Unlike the I Frati, the cru Brolletino is aged in small 225 liter oak barrels, which gives it an international style and an almost Burgundian character. It is fully mature upon release, but will retain its rich intense flavor for many years. Not surprisingly, it is produced in very small quantities.

Tasting Notes: The 2003 Ca dei Frati I Frati Lugana is a delightfully elegant wine that wears a traditional Chablis-like robe of pale yellow, with a mere hint if green. In the nose the I Frati’s aromatic profile is redolent with the fresh heady scent of early spring, a mélange of flower blossoms and the first fruits of an awakening land. In the mouth, satiny textured fruit caresses the palate and nearly explodes with the infusion of mineral and subtle earth that add to the wines complexity and disarming depth of flavor. Not surprisingly, Ca dei Frati’s I Frati finishes with both elegance and panache, not to mention plenty of flavors. Concentrated, complex, and expressive, the 2003 I Frati is positively wicked in the most delightful way. We suggest serving this wine moderately chilled, typically around 45° F, and as often as you can find it.

Accompaniments: The 2003 Ca dei Frati I Frati Lugana conjures the romance of the terraced, flower bedecked balconies above Lake Garda, not to mention the charm and allure of nearby Verona – the city that provided the world the lore of love in the guise of Romeo and Juliet. So, given the innate charm of this wine, accompaniments are optional. Nonetheless, we can suggest serving Ca dei Frati’s Lugana with a variety of fresh water fare, including Trout Almandine. Many saltwater fish like flounder, fluke, halibut, and striped bass also provide superlative companions to one of the world’s most charismatic white wines. Assorted hors d’oeuvres, stuffed mushroom caps, grilled vegetables, salads, and an array of quiche and vegetable pies offer other superlative choices. Although full-flavored and ready to stand up to more robust cooking, the glory of Lugana is, at least in our opinion, its subtle complex flavors and haunting charm, which are most evident in the company of simple, uncomplicated fare. Enjoy!

Ask the Panel

Question: What do the words table wine mean on a bottle of wine? When I was young the expression table wine was synonymous with inexpensive everyday wine, the kind of wine the French referred to as vin ordinaire. However, I see the expression table wine on nearly all of the bottles of wine I drink, even those that are quite expensive and I consider being of considerable quality. Can you help me understand what this expression means?

Response: The words table wine on a bottle of wine are a legal designation under federal law for wines that contain 14% of alcohol or less by volume and are neither sparkling nor fortified. This designation comprises and fits the majority of white, red, and rosé wines sold in the United States, including Grand Cru Bordeaux and Burgundy. More than twenty years ago the BATF (Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms) initiated this designation to differentiate still natural wines from those that were sparkling or fortified with the addition of brandy or other spirits. Today, the words table wine on a bottle of wine carries absolutely no other meaning than the legal definition attached to it. However, a generation or two ago, the expression table wine did indeed connote an ordinary everyday kind of wine, at least in some circles. Today, the expression is simply a regulatory phrase that tells the consumer the wine is still and naturally fermented, without the addition of spirits to raise its alcohol content.

Recipe for White Wine

Seared Trout Almondine

2 Tbl. olive oil
2 garlic cloves – minced
4 trout filets (Brook or Rainbow Trout is good)
4 plum tomatoes – chopped
3 Tbl. fresh basil
1/4 cup slivered almonds

In a heavy skillet, heat oil and garlic over medium heat for just a minute or two. Saute the fish filets in pan with heat turned up to medium high for 5 minutes on each side. Reduce heat, add the tomatoes, basil and almonds. Cover and simmer for 5-10 minutes,

Muri Veteres Jumilla 2003 – Spain

Muri Veteres is a special bottling from Bodegas Agapito Rico, one of Spain’s finest producers of Mediterranean style wines. This estate fashions a number of compelling wines of which Muri Veteres is the most notable and certainly the most difficult to obtain. Yet, Agapito Rico is probably best known for his production of Carchelo, an excellent more commercial offering that has taken wine critics and savvy consumers by storm. Just wait until you taste the Muri Veteres.

From 175 acres located in a high, remote mountain valley in Murcia, Agapito Rico, a native of Jumilla fashions compelling Rhone style wines from Mourvèdre, Syrah, Merlot and Tempranillo. In vineyards located at over 2200 feet in the desert like climate of Murcia, the indigenous Monastrell (Mourvèdre) thrives on its own rootstock (a rarity in Europe). Moreover, most if not all of this estate’s grapes are now completely organically farmed. In addition, average yields are an impressively low 1.5 tons per acre, one of the lowest in Europe.

The name Muri Veteres means old walls and refers specifically to the ancient walls of Saguntum (now modern-day Sagunto), a city that lies on the northern frontier of Murcia. Hannibal destroyed the venerable walls of Saguntum, when he laid siege to the city during the Second Punic War. Subsequently, the Romans rebuilt the walls upon their return to their highly valued Iberian colony, which was essential to their feeding and slaking the thirst of an entire empire. Interestingly, Saguntum’s Medieval Visigoth names Mur Viedro and Mour Vedre have given the indigenous Monastrell grape its current popular name: Mourvèdre. And certainly, it is indeed Mourvèdre that forms the backbone and distinct character of Agapito Rico’s noble Muri Veteres.

Since 1998 a completely new Bodega has been in operation at Agapito Rico’s Jumilla estate, built expressly for Carchelo and Muri Veteres, which rely upon carbonic maceration or whole berry fermentation – the same fermentation technique now used extensively in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Agapito Rico fashions his wines to exhibit the intense, fresh aromas and velvety texture and extract of the low yielding Monastrell. Carbonic maceration is used to retain the full aromatic profile of the easily oxidized Mourvèdre varietal. A judicious amount of Merlot and Tempranillo as well as Syrah in some vintages are added to attain additional complexity and age ability.

It has been said that “Spain is the sleeping giant of European wine,” but with Bodegas Agapito and the realization of great wines beginning to flow from the country’s huge acreage of old vine Mourvèdre, one has to wonder if the giant has not already awakened and is now finally coming of age. Consider yourself forewarned: Spain is currently the world’s most exciting source of excellent affordable red wines and a veritable treasure trove of undiscovered riches. We are delighted by the recent viticutural Renaissance that continues to sweep Spain, and we are pleased to offer our club members a taste of what is to come.

Tasting Notes: A delightful blend of Monastrell, more commonly known as Mourvèdre (50%), Merlot (30%), and Tempranillo (20%), the 2003 Muri Veteres showcases the attributes of Jumilla: charm, flavor, and a youthful exuberance that is hard to beat. Yet, so majestically colored in a royal purple robe, one could easily expect a tannic monster whose only attributes are power and strength, but the Muri Veteres quickly disarms the wary taster with a hedonistic set of aromatics that include a luscious array of red and black fruits, cedar, sandalwood, and chocolate. Ripe, dense, and made for good old-fashioned drinking, the Muri Veteres possesses plenty of charm and velvet fruit, along with considerable structure. Harmonious and balanced, this wine exudes elegance and breed to complement its considerable character and extroverted personality. We suggest serving the Muri Veteres at cool room temperature (66° F) or even slightly chilled in warmer locales, with only a minimum of aeration, since this wine is all about immediate gratification and youthful pleasure. We expect the Muri Veteres to continue to improve in bottle for another year, but why wait? Enjoy!

Accompaniments: The 2003 Muri Veteres Jumilla reminds us of the perfect dinner party guest, a person who eats everything, enjoys everyone else, and always has something complementary to say to the hostess. In other words, the Muri Veteres is the kind of wine whose welcome precedes it because it makes itself at home nearly everywhere it goes and at anytime. We have enjoyed a glass of it on its own as an aperitif or saved it for after dinner sipping with friends. However, the Muri Veteres has a knack for transforming a mundane midweek meal into a veritable feast, so why not try it with that new recipe for pot roast you have been staring at or whip up grandma’s tried and true midweek meatloaf – in either case you are not likely to be disappointed. If you are feeling slightly more daring in the kitchen, we heartily endorse the Muri Veteres with baby back ribs or even a delicious Mexican soup called Pozole, which is made with spicy pork, hominy, red onions, cabbage and cilantro. Yum!

For the Love of Cheese: A plate of well-selected cheeses provides an ideal complement to the 2003 Muri Veteres. Spanish cheeses offer a natural affinity with this month’s wine selection, but we strongly suggest you not stop there. Therefore, we recommend as accompaniments to the Muri Veteres not only Manchego from Spain, but aged Swiss Appenzeller, Emmenthal, Monterey Jack, and just about any other natural soft cheese without a rind. For additional cheese pairings or to view this month’s exquisite selection of international cheeses, click on www.cheesemonthclub.com and enjoy a taste of the good life!

Recipe for Red Wine:

Barbecued Baby Back Ribs

5 garlic cloves – crushed 1 cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons of ketchup 1 cup hoisin sauce
1 Tbl. sugar 1/4 cup sherry
2 Tbl. honey 2 Tbl. grapefuit or lemon juice
2 racks of ribs

Mix all ingredients for the marinade together. Cover ribs with mixture and refrigerate for 1-2 days turning twice a day.

Grill ribs for 40-50 minutes slowing and basting with marinade.

Morgadío Albariño Rías Baixas 2003 – Spain

Morgadío is a unique farm and winery in Galicia’s Rías Baixas appellation. Meaning “only son” in Gallego, the Spanish dialect of Spain’s Galician coast, Morgadío specializes in Spain’s most expensive and important white grape variety: Albariño. Within the Rías Baixas are three separate districts, but none are as great as the Condado do Tea around Morgadío. Located on the banks of the Miñho River in a sunny amphitheater, reminiscent of Germany’s famous Rheingau, Morgadío enjoys a benign climate, southern exposure, and a superb terroir of reflective granite that allows it to fashion Spain’s fullest and most notable Albariño.

Morgadío came to life with the recent resurrection of the legendary Albariño varietal in the early 1980’s. Owned by the Méndez family of nearby Orense, this old farm is planted entirely to Albariño and is considered to be the driving force in restoring Albariño to its exalted status as Spain’s foremost white wine. And not only does Morgadío possess one of the largest plantings of the varietal (50 acres), it has cultivated the technology and techniques that have transformed Albariño from a local legend to an international celebrity.

Until the late 1980’s Galicia’s legendary Albariño grape remained just that – a legend. Often thought to be a distant cousin or even an immediate ancestor to Riesling, Albariño’s high quality and extreme rarity assured its position as Spain’s (and one of Europe’s) most expensive wine grapes. The high cost involved in making Albariño caused many to overproduce the varietal or stretch its production with less expensive grapes, resulting in inevitable disappointment on the part of adventurous tasters in search of the wine world’s holy grail. Authentic Albariño was produced inconsistently and only in miniscule lots, until the establishment of the Rías Baixas in 1988 and an ongoing movement led by Morgadío to recuperate and assure authenticity in its production.

Tasting Notes: Bold, brilliant, and pointed, the 2003 Morgadío Albariño Rías Baixas is one grand statement of a wine. Dry, pure, and hauntingly scented, this remarkable white wine exhibits light clean fruit, overt minerality, and a crisp fresh finish. Although somewhat ethereal and difficult to label, one thing is certain; in no way does the 2003 Morgadío Albariño resemble the fruity oak infused confections that many New World producers label as Chardonnay nor is it one of those eviscerated, nameless, tasteless white wines that some Old World producers still refer to as classics rather than the moribund relics they truly are. Instead, Morgadío has crafted a statuesque white wine of breed and noble bearing that defies easy-patented description. We suggest serving this unique wine well chilled (35°-40° F).

Accompaniments: With the sea so close and playing such an important part in the lives of the people of Galicia, the preference in Rías Baixas is to pair the region’s fine seafood with a bottle or two of Albariño, and who are we to argue? The 2003 Morgadío Albariño Rías Baixas is, indeed, the perfect foil to sautéed scallops, grilled snapper, crabmeat salad, and most everything else that once inhabited the sea. We also like the Morgadío Albariño with poultry and cheese; especially a well made Manchego, one of Spain’s most delectable cheeses. Fresh or fried Thai-style spring rolls also provide superb complements. And for a simple vegetarian pairing, we recommend putting the 2003 Morgadío Albariño with tips of asparagus, served over a bed of saffron and leek rice. Enjoy!

Three Valleys South Australia
Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 – Australia

Three Valleys is a joint venture between two of South Australia’s finest winemakers: Rod Hooper and Tim Gramp. Rod is the driving force behind the Macaw Creek Winery in the Gilbert Valley of South Australia, as well as an oenologist and consultant to many of South Australia’s finest wine estates, while Tim Gramp is one of the world’s consummate producers of Cabernet Sauvignon. Together they have fashioned a very fine wine indeed from an outstanding vintage.

The 2002 vintage in South Australia enjoyed a very long warm autumn that yielded perfectly ripe fruit and fine supple tannins – the ideal components for Australia’s quintessential cepage. Under idyllic conditions, a classic Australian blend of Shiraz (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) has been fashioned by Gramp and Hooper by drawing from South Australia’s finest wine regions. The Three Valleys Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon combines the boldness of the Barossa Valley with the fragrance and finesse of the Clare Valley, and then adds in the balance and structure that the up and coming Gilbert Valley affords its finest reds. The end result is a very ripe, round, huggable wine that lingers on the palate. We trust you will find this very limited offering as pleasurable as we do.

Tasting Notes: Deep, rich, corpulent, and profoundly structured, the 2002 Three Valleys Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine to ward off the chill of a cold winter’s night. Upon first airing, this Australian rendition of “Bordeaux visits Hermitage” exhibits a ripe core of blackberry, angostura, and finely fired barrel that captivates the senses. In addition, oodles of layered fruit lay over textured tannins and a boatload of flavor in this comely beauty. With additional airing, the distinctive flavor of mulberry and the telltale essence of eucalyptus mend their way through this outstanding offering and further flesh out its already highly developed center. Hints of black pepper, herbs, and Provencal spices begin to emerge as well, adding complexity and flavor to this huggable wine. On the finish the 2002 Three Valleys remains explosive, with both flavor and tannin. Compelling and utterly pleasing at only two years of age, it is indeed difficult to imagine that this wine comes to us as a mere infant, and that additional bottle age will likely enhance all of its inherent goodness. Enjoy this delightful wine now, and for many more years to come.

Accompaniments: Lamb, prepared just about any way you can imagine, is our premier choice of accompaniment to the 2002 Three Valleys Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon. A roast leg of lamb that has been thoroughly basted and turned for the first 15-20 minutes of cooking to seal in the juices and flavor makes for the ideal complement to this full-flavored Three Valleys offering. Nevertheless, an artfully prepared beef stew, served with plenty of vegetables and herbs, provides another memorable meal with Rod Hooper’s latest red wine triumph. In a more Mediterranean vein, we suggest serving sautéed filets of beef or lamb with fresh tomato sauce, olives, and Provencal herbs. The latter dish brings out the Hermitage side of this splendid wine. Grilled steaks, shish kebobs, sausages, and well-prepared cuts of game afford other fine pairings. For vegetarians, we suggest the finest selection of natural cheeses money can buy. Bon Appetit!

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