Vol. 7 No. 7
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Bodega Pirineos Somontano Moristel 2001 - Spain
Van Loveren Reserve Chardonnay 2003 - South Africa
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Domaine De Villemajou Corbieres 2000 - France
Bodega Pirineos Somontano Moristel 2001 - Spain
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Giovanni Almondo Bricco delle Ciliegie
Roero Arneis 2002 - Italy
Bodega Pirineos Somontano Moristel 2001 - Spain
The Denominacion de Origen (DO) of Somontano is located in the ancient Aragonés kingdom of Sobrarbe in the province of Huesca. However, be forewarned, if you and any ten unrelated people you know have even the slightest clue where that is, you and your entire cohort had better be working for National Geographic or else we're calling Immigration! …. To keep the record straight, Somontano is an isolated, well-defined viticultural region in a protected amphitheater at the base of the Pyrenees Mountains in northern Spain. Somontano is nestled just high enough in the mountains to escape the dust and the Mediterranean heat of the Ebro River Valley below. This is the country, the real Spain, or at least a part of traditional Spain that visitors rarely see - not the overcrowded tourist towns of legend and lore.
It has been said that the true expression of Bodega Pirineos is "tradition with modernity," but that label smacks of contradiction rather than integration and individuality for which Pirineos and its wines are most renowned. The families of Somontano have worked the region's vineyards for centuries; yet, it was not until 1964 that the relatively small number of Somontano growers banded together for a common cause and formed a cooperative, which was privatized in 1983 as Bodega Pirineos.
Today, Bodegas Pirineos consists of nearly 2,500 acres, a portion of which is devoted to Moristel, an ancient, indigenous mountain grape varietal that grows only in small, scattered plots throughout the Pyrenees. Bodegas Pirineos controls over 90% of the extant old Moristel vines in the world, making this winery the guardian of tradition and the douane of Spain's rich viticultural heritage. And although Bodegas Pirineos fashions several other top quality wines, Pireneos's main focus is the preservation of Moristel, an endangered viticultural jewel. By constant experimentation and the utilization of modern equipment and the most advanced technical knowledge, this winery preserves the past for all to enjoy.
Complementing the delicious Moristel at Pirineos are several other traditional red wines, including Montesierra Tinto and Senorio de Lazan Reserva. Each is a blend; both wines incorporate Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, two more familiar indigenous varietals, along with Morsitel. Lastly, an internationally styled wine called Marboré is expertly crafted from the three varietals; it is produced in very limited quantities from the strictest sort selection, and it is aimed at the growing export market as it is perhaps the bodega's most internationally styled wine.
The high mountain vineyards of Bodega Pirineos are all situated at well over 1000 feet above sea level. All are dry farmed, and they come from well-drained plots that receive most of their moisture from pure glacial runoff during the summer months. In addition, the bodega practices what it preaches when it comes to élèvage and barrel aging by using a combination of new American and French oak barriques in tandem. In the case of the Pirineos Moristel, the wine spends up to a year in new oak barrels.
Tasting Notes: The 2001 Bodega Pirineos Moristel is a bright, deeply colored wine that marries youthful exuberance to a tremendous amount of individual character and charm. Due to the mountain climate and the natural proclivity of the indigenous Morsitel, the Pirineos Morsitel is delicate of skin and low in oxidative enzymes, which translates into a wine that exhibits both freshness and plenty of subtle charm. The 2001 Pirineos Morsitel is infused with the scent and savor of loganberry, black cherry, cola, and white chocolate. On the palate the wine is tender and velvety, and simply delicious. And although this wine's youthful freshness is part of the allure, it has all of the ingredients to develop further in the bottle. We suggest that you serve this unique, highly individual wine slightly cool but not chilled (about 65º F), especially during summer months when ambient temperatures are likely to rise above 80º F. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: The 2001 Bodega Pirineos is neither fussy nor prissy when it comes to accompaniments. We have enjoyed this wine with everything from hamburgers to taco salads to paella, and a whole lot in between. It provides a fine complement to steaks, lamb kebobs, and other grilled meats. Hearty, mixed green salads, served with strips of marinated chicken or tuna make other fine pairings with this versatile offering from Pirineos. And considering this wine's youthful exuberance and tender fruit, food furnishes just one option; the 2001 Pirineos Morsitel can stand happily on its own either at a party or as the libation of choice among a few close friends, so as you like it! However, for a special treat, we suggest you serve the Pirineos Moristel with the three specially selected Spanish cheeses from this month's C&H international cheese selection. For more information or to place an order, click on www.cheesemonthclub.com and enjoy!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Marinated Flank Steak
1 cup vegetable oil 1 onion - sliced
1/3 cup soy sauce 4 Tbl. Worcestershire sauce
1/3 red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic - minced
1/4 cup lemon juice 1 tsp. ground pepper
3 Tbl. Dijon mustard 1 2lb flank steak
Combine the first 9 ingredients in a large zip-top plastic bag. Add the steak (cut in half if needed). Cover and refrigerate 4 hours, turning once or twice. Remove steak and onion from bag and discard marinade. Cook steaks over medium-hot grill about 20 minutes. Wrap onions in foil and grill for 5-10 minutes. Flank steak is best if sliced across the grain in thin slices.
Serve with onion slices.
Van Loveren Reserve Chardonnay 2003 - South Africa
Van Loveren is located on the banks of the Breede River in Robertson, South Africa's premier Chardonnay producing region. Two brothers, Nico and Wynand Retief, own this beautiful red canna lily lined property only 100 miles from Cape Town. In the days of yore, Van Loveren was a large farm affectionately called Goudmyn (Goldmine). Today, it is a 330 acre wine estate that is highly regarded for its picturesque beauty and liquid gold, mostly in the form of Chardonnay.
Van Loveren is currently one of the leading producers of premium Chardonnay in South Africa and a driving force behind the recent success of Robertson as a prime viticultural area. The region's limestone rich soil is perfect for Chardonnay, which have led some critics to compare the Robertson and Van Loveren's wines in particular to the charming, round Chardonnays of Pouilly-Fuissé. With these pundits we heartily concur. However, the Retief brothers also fashion other high quality white wines at their estate. Specifically, this property's Sauvignon Blanc is world-class wine as well, a hypothetical cross of the bright, herbal New Zealand-style of the varietal and the tropical fruit, big boned body of prime Australian Sauvignon Blanc.
In addition, Van Loveren crafts excellent Colombard, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, along with two fine dessert wines and a delicious sparkling wine they have named Papillon. Since the early 1990's the Refief brothers have also been working with premium red varietals, most notably Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz, and Pinotage - South Africa's own unique varietal. Most assuredly, we will be hearing a lot more about this property in the years to come, and hopefully we will be tasting many more of their wares as well.
South African Chardonnay
South Africa's victory in the 1999 Tri-Nations Chardonnay Challenge against Australia and New Zealand highlights just how far the South African wine industry has traveled in just a decade. Spearheaded by the premium producers of the Cape, South Africa's oldest and most important viticultural area that stretches to the east and west of Cape Town at the very tip of Africa, South Africa has developed a distinctive, elegant, yet flavorful style of Chardonnay that many New World producers of Chardonnay would be wise to emulate. Rarely are estate-bottled South African Chardonnays insipid or tragically steeped in oak à la the majority of California Chardonnays, whose producers seem bent on proving that spending considerable sums on new oak barrels automatically guarantees a quality product. Instead, the emerging Cape style of Chardonnay expresses elegance and the natural flavor profile of the grape. From premium Cape Chardonnays one can typically glean citrusy, refreshing aromas and flavors that provide a splendid counterpoint to the varietal's buttery tones, providing balance and setting the stage for the full expression of the Chardonnay grape and the distinctive terroir of the Cape. Vive la différence!
Tasting Notes: An amplifying nose of pure, sweet butter greets the nose, before that luxurious aroma proceeds to the palate, where it fills the mouth with clear bright fruit, hints of citrus and just a touch of vanilla butter. Such is the uncomplicated but utterly gratifying calling card of the 2003 Van Loveren Reserve Chardonnay. In short, this is one tasty, eminently drinkable Chardonnay. This is the style of Chardonnay many more premium California producers could provide consistently, if they were not so obsessed with acid balancing and the taste of oak rather than the natural flavors of the Chardonnay grape. We suggest serving this friendly, huggable wine fairly well chilled (40°- 45° F), and often. Although thoroughly enjoyable from the onset, the 2003 will continue to improve in bottle for at least another year or two.
Accompaniments: The 2003 Van Loveren Reserve Chardonnay makes an excellent aperitif as it provides a great opening act to a splendid affair. Nonetheless, it is not the least bit recalcitrant in providing escort service to a large array of star-studded dishes. Some of the panel's favorite accompaniments include mesquite smoked chicken wraps or marinated grilled chicken, served with either a mild Mediterranean herb paste and plenty of ripe avocados or a mild sweet and sour sauce with mandarin oranges. A light salmon mousse, a pecan encrusted salmon, and expertly prepared California rolls provide other exemplary pairings with the 2003 Van Loveren Reserve Chardonnay. An old fashioned Pasta Primavera renders yet another tried and true complement. For cheese lovers we suggest pairing the Van Loveren with both mild and medium-bodied cheeses, and that you check out other expert cheese selections from our Gourmet Cheese of the Month Club at www.cheesemonthclub.com In order to accentuate the soft, easy style of this Chardonnay and highlight the wine's subtlety and nuance, we suggest that you eschew raw garlic and onion and overtly piquant flavors like jalapeños and other hot peppers. Enjoy!
Recipe for White Wine
Pecan Crusted Salmon
4 salmon fillets
2 Tbl. Dijon mustard
2 Tbl. melted butter
1/4 cup pecans - finely chopped
1/4 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs
3 tsp. fresh parsley - chopped
1 Tbl. honey
Rinse fillets well and pat dry. Place the fillets skin side down on a lightly greased pan. Mix together Dijon mustard, butter and honey. Brush fillets with mixture.
Combine breadcrumbs, pecans and parsley. Spread breadcrumb mixture over each fillet. Bake in a preheated oven at 450 degrees for 10-15 minutes.
Domaine De Villemajou Corbieres 2000 - France
Domaine De Villemajou lies in the heart of the ancient Corbières, one of the two oldest and most important appellations of Languedoc - France's largest wine producing region. It is to Corbières that archeologists and historians trace some of the earliest evidence of the vine in France. The Phoenicians and ancient Greeks were drawn to the beauty of Corbières, which has long been renowned for its captivating scenery, and began colonizing this dramatic sweep of Mediterranean coastline by the fifth century BC. Greek colonists planted the first vines in Corbières, making this enchanted land the cradle of French viticulture for over 2,500 years.
Georges Bertrand, who was best known as one of the Languedoc's earliest 20th century visionaries, began the family domain of Villemajou. He sought to return the once glorious Languedoc to its former status as France's premier wine region, which it enjoyed before Phylloxera, and was well on his way to accomplishing his goal when he died prematurely in 1987. Fortunately for the Languedoc, Domaine De Villemajou, and the serious wine consumer, Georges left the wine world a legacy in his very talented son, Gérard.
Today, Gérard is known as one of France's most influential winemakers. He still resides at Domaine De Villemajou, transforming the traditional red Languedoc varietals: Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre into powerful but lush wines that speak of old vines, low yields and a deft hand. In addition to the highly acclaimed Domaine De Villemajou, Gérard Bertrand produces other award winning wines from single vineyard sites in nearby Minervois. All of Bertrand's wines are produced using sustainable agricultural methods and are hand harvested.
Tasting Notes: Richly robed, aromatic, flavorful, and plush the 2000 Domaine De Villemajou Corbières underscores the latent greatness of the Languedoc and leaves little doubt in the mind of any serious wine lover as to why the Romans were so familiar with this viticultural site. The 2000 Domaine De Villemajou is simply hedonistic and downright huggable. Whether it is the wine's amplifying nose, redolent with the aroma of plums, roses, violets and black fruits or simply the smooth sophisticated taste and texture it possesses on the palate, the 2000 Domaine De Villemajou is one wine not to be missed. It is full-flavored and sophisticated, as well as elegant and structured. In other words, this wine has body and balance and every thing in between. Without a tannic bite or even the trace of an edge, the 2000 Domaine De Villemajou requires little to no breathing time to be charming, but aeration will maximize the wine's roundness, so as you like it. For the record, the longer you allow this outstanding Corbières to breathe, the smoother and more reminiscent of velvet it becomes. Enjoy it at cool room temperature (about 66°-68° F).
Accompaniments: Given the roundness and easy amplitude of the 2000 Domaine De Villemajou Corbières, it ranks high on our list of great dinner party wines. It is the type of wine you can plan your main course around or better yet you can open up a second or third bottle of it in the middle of a meal, without wondering if it has had sufficient aeration to be charming, and it will shine. In essence, this is the quintessential dinner party wine. All you need to decide is what you want to serve. Whether it is lamb, beef, poultry, French Haute Cuisine, savory Italian specialties or good old American classics such as Texas barbecue or its Carolina sidekick - pork barbecue - the Domaine De Villemajou is a pleasure to bring to the table. Salut!
Giovanni Almondo Bricco delle Ciliegie
Roero Arneis 2002 - Italy
Why is it that some people can turn success into failure, and in short order, while others manage to be successful in every endeavor and with everything they touch? And why do some people appear to posess all the talent, while others wouldn't recognize basic ability, let alone true talent, if it slammed them up one side of the head and down the other? Well, to be perfectly honest, we don't know why life seems to be so partial, but we do know extra ordinary people when we see them, and Giovanni Almondo is indeed one of the extra ordinary people in this world - a man with a genuine Midas touch.
A graduate of the University of Turin with a doctorate in agronomy, Giovanni Almondo has no trouble juggling the passions in his life: cultivating his vineyards and running his cellars, while pursuing a career in public administration and acting as the mayor of Monta d'Alba in the Roero district of Piemonte. Perhaps, Almondo's cellars are more than a clue to his success: everything is orderly and spotless, and precise rows of stainless steel fermenters and small oak barrels fall carefully in place.
This well-tended estate produces a first rate Barbera d'Alba and two different styles of Arneis, for which it has become justly famous. Almondo produces a fine entry level Arneis called Vigne Sparse. It is assembled from grapes that hail from a variety of vineyards and is fermented exclusively in stainless steel. However, as enjoyable as Vigne Sparse can be, Giovanni Almondo's top wine is the Bricco delle Ciliegie Arneis, which comes from the estate's finest vineyard, high on a hill in Monta d'Alba above the entire Roero. Warmed by the morning sun but shielded from the excessive summer heat of Piemonte, Bricco delle Ciliegie consistently provides grapes of superior quality, a third of which are fermented in barrels to increase structure and complexity. And because luck has very little to do with quality, is there any further reason to wonder why Giovanni Almondo produces one of the finest of all Arneis, a Piemontese specialty?
Tasting Notes: The 2002 Almondo Bricco delle Ciliegie Arneis displays the typical aromatic and full flavor associated with the Arneis grape, along with a rich robe of golden yellow sunshine. A myriad of complex scents: spring blossoms, lemon oil, liquid minerals, and a waft of fennel spring from the glass. These same inviting, highly nuanced flavors unfold graciously on the palate, becoming more intriguing with each sip. Full-bodied and complex, the Bricco delle Ciliegie finishes with a long dry satisfying finish that underscores the inherent superiority of the Ciliegie vineyard and the high level of care and expertise we have come to expect from the Almondo family. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Arneis has evolved into the perfect foil for full-flavored, highly charged fish dishes, and the 2002 Almondo Bricco delle Ciliegie is this intriguing grape's latest poster child. We suggest that you try this delightful cru with a Mustard Crusted Salmon or a Polenta and Scallop Terrine. The Bricco delle Ciliegie can even stand up to rare Ahi Tuna, served on a bed of bitter greens. But lest you think that Giovanni Almondo's flagship wine is a one-dish wine or in any way lacks versatility, we suggest you try it with chicken, pork, and creamy pasta dishes or simply serve the Bricco delle Ciliegie moderately chilled (45º-50º F) with fresh homemade bread and warm goat cheese. Yum!
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