Vol. 7 No. 4

Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Rolf Binder - Merlot/Cabernet - 2002 - Australia
Tokaj-Oremus Tokaji Furmint Mandolas 2002 Hungary

Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Fattoria Le Terrazze Rosso Conero 2001 - Italy

White Wines Only Featured Selections
Tim Gramp Watervale Riesling 2001 - Australia

 

Rolf Binder Merlot/Cabernet - 2002 Australia

Rolf Binder, formerly known as Veritas, is one of Barossa Valley's unofficial Grand Cru producers. It is run by Christa Deans and Rolf Binder, one of the few brother and sister winemaking teams in Australia, and what a team they make! One of the keys to this duo's success is that Christa makes all of the estate's white wines, while Rolf takes care of the reds, but they both make all the important decisions jointly. Together, the Binders produce many of Australia's finest red and white wines, including full throttle Shiraz, Mataro (Mourvedre), Cabernet, and Merlot as well as an outstanding Semillon, and even a 10 year old Tawny port-style wine.

Rolf and Chrsita's father, Rolf Senior, began Veritas fifty years ago with a single hectare of vines. Today, the estate consists of more than 100 acres, with a considerable number of sites in excess of 40 years, plus Rolf and Christa have long-term agreements on many of Barossa's other fine old-vine parcels.

Unlike many Australian producers, who speak about minimal intervention, Rolf Binder practices what he preaches. While the prevailing Australian modus operandi is to heavily oak red wines and then filter them, Rolf eschews such practices. In fact, the estate's new Pennsylvania Dutch style winery contains very little technical equipment to speak of, only a 50 year-old screw press, a high school chemistry lab, and a mixture of old and new oak barrels. Indeed, one can rightly conclude that whatever magic is imparted to the Binders' wines can be attributed to outstanding grapes, clear heads, and a passion for winemaking. Something tells us we are going to see a lot more of the Binders and their pure, natural, fruit driven wines in the years to come.

Who's on first, What's on second, I don't know who's on third!

In an uncertain and ever changing world, it is often comforting to know somethings don't change or at least some aspects of life give the appearance of timelessness, which lend comfort and security to mere mortals as the specter of eternity haunts our human psyche. So from time and memorial or at least what seems like forever, two nations have come to be synonymous with wine the fruit of the wine and the work of human hands that makes glad the human heart and many a lover of wine has gained solace from those sources of joy and the knowledge that some wonderful things don't change. And if we asked any number of wine drinkers which nations they may be, the resounding response would of course be France and Italy. And if pressed further and asked what two countries export the most wine to the United States, the answer from consummate oenophiles would again be France and Italy, but those so-called wine experts would be wrong, indeed.

For the first time since any one can recall and what appears to be forever, France is no longer one of the top two exporters of wine to the United States, even though she remains the planet's second leading wine producing nation behind Italy. And lest one thinks that this phenomenon has anything to do with the recent political unpleasantness or the quality of wine or lack of from America's oldest ally, he or she would be mistaken. The most recent figures, which corroborate this stunning change and have been echoed by several independent sources, are from 2002 before the political upheavals of 2003. Moreover, international critics, Americans included, agree that French wines on average have never been better, and we heartily concur. So who's on second, you ask?

Presently, Australia, with its laid-back manner and the visions of boomerangs, sprawling sheep ranches and the desolate Outback that still pervade many Americans' views of the world's smallest continent, does indeed supply the United States with more imported wine than any other nation, except Italy. The general response has been: How and why did this happen? Well, the simple response is rather quietly and methodically. For the past twenty years, Australia has been steadily increasing its vineyards and wine producing capacity, and now contains some of the most modern and efficient wine producing facilities in the world. Australia has also engaged in a tremendous marketing campaign in the United States and around the world, but most importantly, the quality, value, and styles of Australian wines suit us and are easy to pronounce. From Australia one can purchase a case of a decent, simple inexpensive Chardonnay or a staggering dense old vine Shiraz that could pay most regular folks' mortgage for a month, but in any case the consumer knows what he or she is getting. So twenty-five years ago when Australia desperately needed to reshape its export picture because the worldwide demand for wool and lamb had been waning for years, Australia embarked on a great experiment to bolster its fragile balance of trade, and fortunately for us wine won and not vegemite.

As an international wine club, C&H is committed to offering our members the highest quality and variety of wines we can find from all of the world's leading wine producing nations, which now include Australia as well as the United States. For the record, only Italy, France, and Spain fashion more wine than the United States, while Australia constitutes the world's eight largest producer of wine up from twentieth place less than two decades ago. However, with only twenty million or so inhabitants, Australians must export or perish. Not even Australians, known for their unshakable thirst, can drink that much wine, so we will do our best to bring you more interesting wines from the movers, shakers, and rising stars from all over the Land Down Under. and elsewhere.

Ask the Panel:

Question: Recently, I attended a wine class in which the speaker stated that nearly all of the world's vitis vinifera vines, including all of my favorites: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, have to be grafted onto special American rootstocks, which are derived from such grape varieties as Concord and Catawba. He went on to state that this is the only way that the great vineyards of the world can survive phylloxera (the dreaded vine parasite). Can this possibly be true?

Response: Unfortunately, it is. Since there is no cure for phylloxera, the only hope for vinifera vines and their renowned wines is the management of the phylloxera problem. Consequently, in order to manage this scourge, resistant root systems become the key to controlling the disease. European varietals must be grafted onto North American rootstocks. In other words, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and other European vines are grafted onto the resistant root systems of native North American varietals. This successful practice was first used in the 19th century in Europe, and it remains the only treatment for phylloxera today. It is, also, the only reason that Europe's vinifera vineyards still exist, and it is the only way California and all other American states can now successfully grow any European varietals.

Sadly, during the 1970's California wine boom, many of that state's new or replanted vineyards were grafted onto non-resistant or marginally resistant root systems, in the belief that phylloxera was no longer a problem. Unfortunately, all of those optimists have discovered that the dreaded vine louse is alive and well, and as virulent as ever. This has necessitated the replanting of countless vineyard properties onto more resistant rootstock. This monumental, ongoing effort is costing vintners and consumers millions of dollars, and will no doubt continue to do so. In the meantime, we will all have to grin and bear the present situation, content in the knowledge that California remains the fourth largest producer of vinifera wines in the world, in spite of its spate of indigenous vine maladies.

Tasting Notes: Sporting a rich ruby robe and the aromatic profile of fine Bordeaux, laced with a dollop of New World fruit, the 2002 Rolf Binder Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot does indeed resemble a hypothetical blend of Bordeaux and South Australia. If this wine could talk, it would say G'day with an accent, but what a lovely, sexy accent that would be. From the first sip, ripe fruit is the initial reaction on the palate, followed by the savor of blackberry, plum, cassis and subtle oak. Although this wine is young and has a bit of tannin to shed, it is already developing a soft, silky palate that is framed by its gentle tannins. And if you are disciplined enough to wait a couple more years for this honest (no pun intended remember, the wine was originally called Veritas until an irate American winery objected to the name) offering, you should be in for a veritable treat. Enjoy the 2002 Rolf Binder Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot at room temperature, after giving it at least thirty minutes or more to breathe. Enjoy!

Accompaniments:The 2002 Rolf Binder Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot seems to us to be the perfect accompaniment to the great selection of carnivorous delights that characterize the typical Austral-ian's table. Lamb, beef, kangaroo, ostrich and venison can be seen on almost every menu in Australia and increasingly on many American menus as well. All are excellent choices with the Binder Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot. So whether you grill the meat or marinade it, this Barossa offering should be able to stand and deliver. For those who are not carnivores, we suggest pairing this wine with gnocchi (potato pasta), served with a cream sauce that is made with fresh Parmesan, Provolone, and Romano cheeses. Vegetable ravioli or tortellini, smothered in a mild Gorgonzola and truffle cream sauce provides another wonderful marriage with Rolf Binder's Cabernet Sau

Red Wine Recipe

Lamb Ragout
2 lbs. lamb stew meat 2 Tbl. lemon juice - fresh
G cup flour 2 Tbl. fresh parsley - chopped
G cup olive oil H tsp. salt
2 cups beef broth 1 tsp. pepper
G cup Sherry 2 cloves garlic minced

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place flour, salt & pepper in a large zippered plastic bag, add lamb and shake until meat is well coated with flour mixture.

Heat oil in a large fry pan and sauté the lamb meat until it is brown on all sides. Stir in remaining ingredients except the lemon and parsley. Simmer for 10 minutes or so. Put entire meat mixture into a large oven-proof casserole dish and bake in preheated oven for 1H hours. Stir in lemon juice and parsley.

 

Tokaji - Furmint - 2002 Hungary

The Tokaj region and its luscious, flavor packed wines known as Tokaji were once the talk and the toast of Europe. A walk through the vineyards of Tokaj-Oremus on the southwest slopes of the Zemplen Mountains in eastern Hungary is a stroll through the social, political, and vitcultural history of Europe. Once the prize possession of a succession of Hun-garian counts and then the finest jewel in the viticultural diadem of the Habsburg Empire, Oremus has been tantalizing palates for more than five centuries. Written records from this property date as far back as the 16th century. Fortunately, with the demise of the Soviet Union and its self imposed Iron Curtain, Hungary's Tokaj-Oremus is once again making history and producing noble wines that warrant a royal reception.

Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Tokaj enjoyed the most exalted position among wines, but with such a long and illustrious history it is always difficult to separate fact from fantasy when it comes to wines of historical renown, and Tokaji has been no exception to that phenomenon. And with more than four decades of Communist rule that saw the production of noble wines in Tokaj severely curtailed, if not all but extinguished, fine Tokaji had become by the end of the 20th century more a legend than a reality a romance fuelled by the recollections and reminisces of a few old wise connoisseurs, who knew the greatness of Hungary's finest wine. So when the Iron Curtain was finally drawn back, the opportunity to revive Oremus presented itself, along with the task of redefining and re-establishing its identity. None other than Vega Sicilia, Spain's most historical estate and the producer of Iberia's most expensive wine, took up that Herculean task.

The Vega Sicilia team has acquired and replanted the most highly prized vineyards in Tokaj, sparing no expense to preserve the oldest, choicest vines in selected vineyard sites. In addition, they have refurbished the region's finest underground cellars, and both local experts and Vega Sicilia's team now make the property's wine. The estate they bought was re-christened Oremus, meaning Let us Pray. Not surprisingly, within just six years of Vega Sicilia's arrival in Tokaj, Oremus had undergone a complete transformation that is nothing short of miraculous. Thanks to Oremus, and a few other dedicated producers, the greatness of Tokaji is being restored and the legend is once again reality.

Today, Oremus produces a whole array of sweet traditional Tokaji wines, including Tokay Aszu, which is labeled from one to six puttonyos to indicate the wine's sweetness. Moreover, it produces an outstanding dry Tokaji, which is made exclusively from Furmint, Hungary's unique and most important varietal. This internationally styled wine, which had long been made in small quantities in Tokaj by a few local producers, now ranks as the estate's leading wine. It is named Mandolas after the picturesque slope from which it originates. All of the vineyards of Tokaj-Oremus are classed First Growth.

Furmint
Furmint is the noblest and most important grape variety in the Tokaj wine district. Furmint has nearly all of the finest qualities a grape can possess. It is hearty and disease resistant, enjoying the ability to withstand cold winters as well as hot dry summers both important attributes in eastern Hungary. Moreover, grown in the volcanic soil of Tokaj, the Furmint varietal gives rise to fresh, full-bodied wines with haunting spice and a great potential for aging. Furmint also has the age-old attribute of developing the secondary characteristics that wine connoisseurs refer to as complexity. With controlled fermentation and oak barrel elevage, both of which are practiced at Oremus, Furmint develops an incomparable harmony of flavors.

Tasting Notes: If your idea of the perfect wine begins and ends with Chardonnay or somehow you have come to worship the taste of new oak rather than the natural, individual flavor of wine, the 2002 Oremus Tokaji Furmint Mandolas may not be your first choice in dry white wine. However, if you are like most consummate wine drinkers and are intrigued by a very highly individual wine that sports character, flavor, purity, and quality, and is just brazen enough to be interesting, the Oremus dry Furmint is sure to be a hit. A bright straw color, a fresh intense nose of spice mingled with the haunting scent of peach blossoms, followed by dry racy flavors render the Oremus Tokaji one of the most intriguing white wines of the year. In addition, the 2002 Mandolas is made in a beautiful medium-bodied format that offers good crisp acidity, which holds much of the wine's flavor, right to the end. Captivating and delicious now, this dry Furmint will only get better with additional bottle age. As the wine matures it will become more lush and decadent as its natural acidity recedes. We suggest that you serve the Oremus well chilled (40º F) when young and moderately chilled when it is at least two years of age.

Accompaniments: So you're not so sure of what wine to serve with the potato leek pizza topped with fresh goat cheese that Uncle Jack just made or you're afraid the spice in the black bean and chicken chili will overwhelm the insipid Chardonnay you were planning to serve at dinner? Well, no need to fret, the 2002 Oremus Tokaji Furmint Mandolas has those two ordinarily hard to match dishes covered, and that's not all. Seafood provides more than a few winning matches with the Oremus, too. We especially like the Mandolas with the more piquant version of Neptune's fare such as spicy conch fritters or Cajun shrimp, and any number of other highly charged dishes from the briny deep. Yet, we also recommend deftly prepared tempuras and even clams or oysters on the half shell, if you must: dry Furmint accentuates the fresh natural flavors of shellfish better than Chablis or even full throttle Sauvignon Blanc. And we haven't even mentioned traditional Hungarian fare, which rises admirably to the intensity of the Oremus dry Furmint. Goulashes and other Paparika and onion laden vittles provide added complements to this most intriguing wine, so why not experiment and enjoy?

White Wine Recipe:

Quick Paella

2 tsp. Olive oil H tsp. paprika
I lb. peeled shrimp H tsp. saffron
H lb. sea scallops 4 dashes hot sauce
H lb. chicken breasts in 1 pieces 1 cup thawed corn & peas
1 large onion chopped 2 cups chicken broth
2 cups chopped tomatoes save juice salt & pepper
4 cloves garlic minced 1 cup white rice

Heat half the oil over medium heat in a large fry pan. Add the shrimp to oil and sauté until the shrimp turns pink. Remove shrimp and add a little more oil and sauté the scallops for 5 minutes or until lightly brown. Remove scallops and repeat sauté with the chicken.

Add the garlic and onion to the pan and cook over low heat until the onion is light
brown. Stir in the tomatoes, saffron, paprika and hot sauce and simmer for 4-5
minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat grains well. Stir in chicken broth and tomato juice and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Add the shrimp, scallops and chicken. Stir and cook for 5 minutes. Add the corn & peas and continue to cook over low heat until rice is light and fully cooked. Season with salt & pepper, to taste.

Fattoria Le Terrazze Rosso Conero 2001 Italy

Rosso Conero is the Adriatic's most illustrious wine and Fattoria Le Terrazze is the region's leading producer, so when the crowds leave the area's pretty beach resorts and the tourists take leave of the countless seafood restaurants that anchor the breathtaking Marchesan coastline, rife with cliffs that plummet hundreds of feet straight into the gleaming Adriatic Sea, the local cognescenti put aside the region's Verdicchio and break out the Marches' most serious and compelling red wine - Fattoria Le Terrazze Rosso Conero. A robust, hearty red that possesses both flavor and charm, Rosso Conero is a delicious wine, equally fit for a cold winter night as well as the seductive fecundity of a warm spring evening. It draws its strength and vigor from the flavorful Montepulciano grape, and when blended with up to 15% Sangiovese (the great Tuscan varietal) Rosso Conero combines strength and finesse, resulting in a plush wine of subtle complexity.

Antonio and Georgina Terni are the dedicated proprietors of Le Terrazze, where they produce a meager 2000 cases of wine each year from a small, well-situated 15 acre vineyard. Their sole aim is produce the Marches' finest Rosso Conero, a goal many critics and consumers alike believe Antonio and Georgina have already achieved. In order to produce their beautifully wrought wine, they must drop a sizeable portion of each vintage's purple grape clusters onto the meticulously tended vineyard, thereby radically reducing their yield but heightening the flavor and intensity of the resulting wine. Once one of Italy's best-kept secrets, the word is now out; Fattoria Le Terrazze produces compelling Rosso Conero and its wines are becoming increasingly difficult to find. Consider yourself forewarned.

Tasting Notes: Regardless of the vintage, Fattoria Le Terrazze seems to shine, due in no small part to the Ternis' strict crop selection and low yields, so it should come as no surprise that the 2001 Le Terrazze Rosso Conero is delicious. It reveals an elegant soft perfume, redolent with the scents of cherry, rose and violet. Wedded to the wine's seductive floral components is a sensual, earthy aroma that exudes the essence of spring and captures the fecundity of the awakening land. Furthermore, the 2001 Le Terrazze is rich, warm and velvety in the mouth, and it offers up copious quantities of ripe black cherry and cola that mingle with subtle complex tones. Medium to full-bodied, Le Terrazze's ripe sweet tannins provide structure as well as an appropriate framework to highlight the wine's plush elegance. We suggest that you allow this lovely Rosso Conero at least 15-30 minutes to breathe before serving it at cool room temperature (about 66° F). Due to the Terni's natural methods of production and the nature of the Montepulciano varietal, the Le Terrazze may precipitate a harmless, tasteless sediment.

Accompaniments: All the classic Italian American specialties (Eggplant Parmigiana, Lasagne, Veal Scallopine, etc.) provide excellent accompaniments to the 2001 Fattoria Le Terrazze. However, if you are looking for something more, you need not look any further than the traditional cuisine of the Marches. Although simple in comparison to the heavy rich fare of Piemonte, Marchesan cooking is always quite flavorful, rich, and varied. Brodetto, the highly charged local rendition of bouillabaisse, smoked meats, such as salami, or just about any type of game all provide fine complements to the Terni's Rosso Conero. Yet, it is Porchetta, the Marches' version of a whole, roasted suckling pig, which is stuffed with onion, herbs, garlic and wild fennel that constitutes our favorite accompaniment to the 2001 Le Terrazze Rosso Conero

Tim Gramp Watervale Riesling 2001 - Australia

Tim Gramp is one of the stars and unsung heroes of the Clare Valley, one of South Australia's most important and historical wine regions. In Australia, the Clare and nearby Watervale have become synonymous with the continent's finest Riesling, producing racy, full-flavored wines with a distinctive citrus, lime twist that rarely appear too austere or too sweet, even when young. With a few years in bottle, these magical Rieslings, which are all the rage in Australia at present, take on more overt tropical fruit flavors and lengthen considerably in the mid palate, without the kerosene or diesel fuel flavors often seen in older Rieslings from other areas of Australia and elsewhere. Most assuredly, Americans will one day "discover" the virtues of fine Riesling and the magical wares of the Clare and its budding environs. However, what most consumers don't realize, even in Australia, is that this magical corner of South Australia also produce fine red wines in addition to glorious whites.

The affable TimGramp produces a splendid Watervale Riesling to complement several very exciting Cabernet and Syrah based reds. And if anyone in South Australia should know a little something about grape growing and winemaking, Tim Gramp certainly should. The Gramp family has been making wine in Barossa and McLaren Vale since the first German settlers arrived there in the 19th century. Tim's forebear, Johann Gramp planted the first vines at Jacob's Creek in Barossa in 1847. It's nice to know that the pioneering spirit is still alive and well, and there is yet another Gramp at the press.

And what brought Gramp to the Clare and Watervale? By his own volition he admits it is the unspoiled landscape and affordable terra rossa soil. They furnish him with the wherewithal to produce excellent wines for those who know good wine, but by fate were not fortunate to be born millionaires. Thank you, Tim. May your reward be great in heaven as well as on earth. After all, even winemakers have to eat on occasion.

Tasting Notes: The 2001 Tim Gramp Watervale Riesling is perhaps the ultimate expression of noble dry Riesling in South Australia. A pale but luminescent robe catches the eye but hardly prepares the taster for the multitude of scents and savors that emerge from this beautifully made wine. A squeeze of lime, citrus oil, along with traces of exotic fruits caress the nose, while a long textured center blossoms with prolonged airing and hints of minerals, spring flowers, and tropical fruit. A complete Riesling, the 2001 Tim Gramp finishes as refreshing and pleasing as it begins. Serve this comely wine quite cool (40º-42ºF) and then allow it to breathe and slowly shed it chill; it will bloom in the glass. And if you think it tastes good now, just lay a few bottles down and see what magic is in store for you.

Accompaniments: Our first reaction is almost always to pair wine with food, rather than food with wine. In the case of the 2001 Tim Gramp Watervale Riesling, the panel was nearly unanimous in its enjoyment of this wine on its own. Nevertheless, several accompaniments were clear standouts. Green-tipped New Zealand mussels, served in a saffron broth, sushi and sashimi, and just about anything else that crawls in or out of the sea gets our nod with Gramp's premium Riesling. Most traditional Japanese dishes that are steamed also offer first-rate partners, too. And then again, we are very fond of consuming this dry but exuberant Riesling after dinner, served with apples, grapes, pears, and a platter of soft ripe cheeses. Why not check out our cheese of the month selection by going to www.cheesemonthclub.com for some additional ideas? Enjoy!

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