Vol. 6 No. 5

Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Bodega Septima Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 - Argentina
Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2000 - France

Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Mark West Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2000 - U.S.A.

White Wines Only Featured Selections
De Angelis Bianco Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio 2001 - Italy

Bodega Septima Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 - Argentina

Bodegas Septima is the newest winery from the prestigious Codorniu Group of Spain. Located in Mendoza Argentina, this showpiece of a property comprises nearly 700 heart-stopping acres at the base of the towering Andes. The name Septima was chosen because it is the seventh (la septima) of the group's wineries and because seven is universally considered to be a lucky number. Additionally, the name is easy to pronounce. Yet, luck is not all this hot new winery has going for it. This picturesque estate is wholly within the Agrelo district of the Mendoza, which provides ideal conditions for the production of Argentina's finest red wines, and already Bodega Septima's first releases underscore the greatness of the estate's terroir and the ultimate quality we can expect from Codorniu.

The estate combines traditional Argentinean construction and the latest in technology. The Septima venture pays homage to the cultural and historical legacy of the Mendoza by the use of all natural stone from the Andean cordillera and the adoption of the indigenous technique called pirca whereby local stones are placed on top of each other. All of the winery's buildings have been meticulously constructed in the local way, adding to the elegance and charm of the estate. At the same time, Septima incorporates the most innovative computer-assisted drip irrigation in their vineyards. This technology makes possible the precise control of soil humidity via sensors, thereby conserving water and preventing mildew and unnecessary spraying. It also localizes modification in each area of the vineyard. Thanks to this control, it is also possible to use the latest techniques for the optimization of wine quality such as RDI (Regulated Deficit Irrigation) and PRD (Partial Root Drying), which are designed to intensify the flavor of the resulting wine. Modern sector fertirrigation methods are also employed, so that each vine receives the exact level of nutrition required to maximize its quality, without over fertilizing. And you thought tending a vineyard was simple and making wine a natural phenomenon. Guess again Bullwinkle!

Argentina: An Awakening Giant

Argentina is one of the world's most important wine producing countries. Presently, it ranks fifth in wine production, behind Italy, France, Spain and the United States. It boasts more than 500,000 acres of vines, most of which are planted in the valleys and tablelands of the Andes Mountains. The huge sprawling province of Mendoza, often referred to as the Mighty Mendoza, is responsible for the majority of Argentina's premium wines, but much of this vast province still remains unexploited. Not surprisingly, this sleeping giant rests a mere hundred miles or less from Chile's premier vineyards in the Colchagua, Curico and Maule valleys, which lie just to the west on the windward side of the Andean spine. In spite of the Mendoza's fabulous climate and terroir, and a number of world class wines, most Argentinean wineries have been content to slake the thirst of the local populace by producing quantity over quality ' until recently.

Since 1995, wine producers in Argentina have begun modernizing their vineyards and utilizing new technology in order to produce world class wines that appeal to international palates. Consequently, exports have quadrupled in the last five years to more than 100 million dollars. This figure may be small in comparison to Australia, Chile, and other powerhouse wine exporters, but it underscores the potential of Argentina as a producer of world class wines and confirms the claim that the 'giant has awakened.'

Although Argentina produces a formidable quantity of white wine, it is the nation's reds that have rightfully garnered the world's attention. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Syrah lead the march, followed by a host of other French, Italian, and Spanish varietals.

Tasting Notes: The 2001 Septima Malbec (60%) Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) is a tasty, straightforward, no muss, no fuss kind of wine. Deeply colored and long on old-fashioned flavor, this is the kind of wine that old timers used to call foursquare. The scents and savors of cherry, plum and cedar pop out of a stalwart frame that is rimmed with just enough tannic structure to provide character and definition, without proffering any hard edge. In keeping with its easygoing nature, the Septima Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon requires very little advanced preparation; breathing time and decanting are optional. Our only suggestion would be to serve this wine at cool room temperature, and often.

Accompaniments: Mama's meatloaf is a winner with the 2001 Septima Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon, as are burgers on the grill, replete with condiments, and many more home cooked, stick to your ribs kinds of fare. Barbecued spareribs and marinated flank steak are some of our other favorite foods with this gregarious wine. Also, Spaghetti and Meatballs, Eggplant Parmigiana, and even Italian subs make for good friends in the company of the Septima. Traditional Greek favorites, such as Souvlaki, Spanakopeta, and giros, do justice to this fine Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon blend as well. Lest you think you are dealing with a one-dimensional plebian, fancy fare goes just fine, too, but no need to be pretentious here. The 2001 Septima Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon is easy to please and a pleasure to take almost anywhere. Enjoy!

Recipe for Red Wine:

Homemade Meatloaf

½ lb. ground veal
½ lb. ground pork
½ lb. ground round
½ cup Italian breadcrumbs
1 onion - finely chopped
¼ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
2 eggs - slightly beaten
¾ cup ketchup

Mix 3 ground meats together very well. Add eggs, salt and pepper. Mix well for 2-3 minutes. Add onions and mix well. Add breadcrumbs and mix well. Add ½ cup of the ketchup until mixture is soft and moist. Shape into a loaf onto a baking dish and cover loaf with remaining ketchup.

Bake at 350° for 1 hour.

Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2000 - France

Marcel Guigal has been called everything from 'the man with the Midas touch' to 'the planet's greatest living winemaker.' Unquestionably, Guigal has earned the reputation for fashioning some of southern France's greatest wines, as the plethora of favorable reviews and critical acclaims of his wines will attest but, perhaps, even more impressive is Guigal's knack for consistency. Without fail, Guigal wines, red, white and even rose, are at the top of the charts in both good years and bad. Moreover, each of Guigal's many fine wine offerings has become the yardstick by which all others are judged in their respective appellations.

From the antique village of Ampuis, the birthplace of the great Cote-Rotie appellation, the burgeoning wine empire of Guigal has spread to every significant appellation in the Rhone Valley. Led by Marcel and his adept son and protégé, Philippe, the Guigals have sown success and quality far and wide, forcing less quality minded producers to improve their wines or perish. Most notable of Guigal's wines are the firm's several Cote-Rotie offerings, which are universally acknowledged to be the supreme examples from this ancient 2, 400 year old vineyard that dates back to early Roman times. On qualitative par with this estate's Cote-Rotie are several Condrieu wines made from the finicky but other worldly white grape variety Viognier. There is also an excellent red Hermitage from this estate, a wine that is certainly one of the deepest and longest-lived expressions of the Syrah grape. In a similar full-bodied, personality filled style are Guigal's newest stars: a Crozes-Hermitage Rouge and a Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, both of which are already the standard by which all other Crozes-Hermitage wines are measured, and Guigal has only produced Crozes- Hermitage since 1999. Last but not least are the firm's delicious Cotes du Rhone offerings ' red, white, and rose. The red Cotes du Rhone contains a high percentage of old vine Syrah, while the white sports a similar amount of Viognier, a practice few other producers would even think to emulate, but it is just such practices that set Guigal apart.

The key to Guigal's success has always been quite simple. He cultivates his own vineyards organically with no chemical fertilizers or treatments and picks his grapes late when they are just about ready to explode with their own maturity. This late harvest, coupled with low yields and minimal intervention (including no filtration) gives birth to fragrant, round, ripe natural wines that are immensely pleasurable to drink. When purchasing juice from other producers, a practice that has helped Guigal augment his own estate holdings and hone his extraordinary winemaking skills, Guigal holds those growers to the same exacting standards he sets in his own vineyard. He buys only from producers he knows well who subscribe to his philosophy that old vines, low yields, and a late harvest are prerequisites for producing excellent wine. And, if these exacting requirements are not enough to insure quality, Guigal adds traditional wine ageing in new oak for extended periods of time. In short, Guigal leaves nothing to chance and is willing go the limit, both in the vineyard and in the winery. Bravo!

Tasting Notes: The 2000 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Blanc is indeed a poster child for white wine from the sprawling Crozes-Hermitage appellation. Deep in color and packed with charm and flavor, Guigal's 'Crozes' is already accessible and beautifully wrought. Scents of spring and exotic wildflowers haunt the nose, while the savor of this heady white is replete with the essential oils of flowers, herbs, and citrus fruits. Long and refreshing on the finish, this racy Crozes-Hermitage is nothing short of a tour de force in white wine making for the appellation as well as the little known Marsanne grape variety from which it is made. Serve the 2000 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc moderately chilled, but allow it to breathe ten to twenty minutes like a red wine before consuming it.

Accompaniments: Forget the cucumber and watercress sandwiches, and you may as well add California rolls to the list, too. And for that matter, you can ex out just about all of the dainty, tea party fare you can list or imagine as ideal accompaniments to the 2000 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Blanc. Yet, make no mistake about it, light elegant fare will go just fine with a bottle of Guigal's 'Crozes,' but it is not likely to provide the ultimate experience. The real glory of fine white Rhone wines, and Guigal's Crozes-Hermitage is no exception, is just how well they complement and even accentuate the flavors of very rich, full flavored foods. Consequently, we suggest you throw out the tried and true and do a little experimentation here. For the record, some of our favorites are a Cuban sandwich or better still Cuban pork with black beans, an herb laden ratatouille, mussels marinara and Cioppino, the tomato based Italian equivalent to Bouillabaisse. Shrimp Fra Diovolo, fried dumplings and Hunan chicken or pork are other winning items with this flavorful white wine. Even asparagus, many Middle Eastern dishes and some red meats, especially lamb, won't confound Guigal's fine Crozes-Hermitage either. Enjoy!

Recipe for White Wine

Shrimp Fra Diavolo

1 lb. spaghetti
1 Tbl. olive oil
3 cloves garlic - minced
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1 onion - finely chopped
28 oz. can of whole tomatoes
1 lb. shrimp - peeled & deveined
3 Tbl. fresh parsley - chopped
salt

Boil spaghetti in water with a pinch of salt until just cooked (al dente).
Drain and keep warm.

In a large fry pan or skillet, heat olive oil over low heat and add garlic and onions and cook for 5 minutes or so. Add red pepper flakes, cook for 1 minute while stirring so as not to burn onions. Add the whole can of tomatoes and break up tomatoes with a fork or knife into small pieces. Heat to medium-high until boiling. Reduce heat and simmer for 5-7 minutes. Add shrimp to skillet and continue to cook over medium until shrimp are cooked through (about 5 minutes). Add spaghetti to skillet and toss gently with shrimp and sauce.

Mark West Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2000 - U.S.A.

The Mark West Winery specializes in Pinot Noir. Under the expert direction of Winemaker Alex Cose, this small Sonoma County winery selects some of the finest Pinot Noir fruit in the country, which it turns into classically styled, suave, sophisticated Pinot Noir wines. Drawing primarily from the cool, upper coastal hills of western Sonoma County and Sonoma Carneros, this venture's wines combine Burgundian complexity with the pure exuberance of California fruit.

Few California wineries can claim as much consistent success with Pinot Noir, the world's most difficult red wine to make, as the Mark West Winery. Unquestionably, Mark West is one reason Sonoma County is now commanding respect as the premier place for Pinot Noir in California and one of the world's few truly great Pinot Noir producing regions. Happily, Mark West has resisted the frenzy of greed that has propelled so many other premium California producers to raise the price of their Pinot Noir through the roof. May it always be so, or we will all have to earn a lot more money!

Tasting Notes: Wow! An intense bouquet, full of ripe cherry, strawberry, and rose petal, emerges from this deeply robed Pinot Noir. The 2000 Mark West Sonoma County Pinot Noir follows through on the palate, too, with ripe fruit, spice, and just a hint of hickory smoke imparted from at least twelve months of oak barrel aging. There is definitely no wimp in this wine. Rich, smooth, and long on the palate, this Mark West Pinot exhibits long soft tannins and supreme balance, which should allow it to develop even further in the bottle for another year or more. We suggest serving the 2000 Mark West Pinot Noir at about 65? F, immediately upon opening or after an hour or more in a clean decanter. Enjoy it now and often.

Accompaniments: Whether it is a Burgundian classic such as Boeuf Bourguignon, a traditional Piedmontese Risotto, or a succulent Veal Chop, the 2000 Mark West Sonoma County Pinot Noir calls for sophisticated fare. Pork tenderloin, lamb, and even a Prime Rib will provide exemplary complements as well. On a lighter note, salmon filets in a sprightly lime, soy and ginger sauce offer an outstanding complement to this wine. In addition, any cream or truffle based sauce bring out all the latent goodness in this lovely Pinot Noir. In fact, the 2000 Mark West Sonoma Pinot Noir is a very versatile wine, and it will complement most foods, simple or supreme, but it seems to us a shame to pair this fine Pinot Noir with pedestrian fare, so why not treat yourself?

De Angelis Bianco Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio 2001 - Italy

Located on the foothills of Mount Vesuvius, bordering majestic Sorrento Bay, the Azienda Agricola De Angelis is situated in the prettiest part of the Campania. The Campania Felix, meaning the 'joyous country' or the 'face with an open smile,' is the ancient province of the Roman Empire that sits just south of Rome and neighboring Latium. Like its name implies, this region produces friendly, gregarious wines, and none is more exemplary of the good nature and open character of the land and people of the Campania than the De Angelis Bianco Lacrima Christi.

The estate's owners, the DeAngelis Brothers, typify the unparalleled character of their enchanted region. From barely twenty acres of hillside vineyards they produce, with the help of Oenologist Angelo Valentino, the two mythical wines of Sorrento: Rosso Lacrima Christi and Bianco Lacrima Christi. Lacrima Christi means 'tears of Christ,' and as legend has it the wines of this area of Vesuvius were so named because here, it is said, that Lucifer was cast out of heaven, causing Christ to weep.

The Bianco Lacrima Christi is the product of two native varietals, Coda di Volpe and Falanghina, which produce a fine, fragrant white wine that is prized for its flavor as well as its finesse. Meanwhile, the Rosso Lacrima is the result of the local Piedirosso grape, married to a lesser portion of Aglianico, one of the ancient grapes that the Greeks brought to southern Italy more than 2500 years ago.

Tasting Notes: Born on the volcanic hills of Vesuvius, the 2001 De Angelis Bianco Lacrima Christi captures every bit of the flavor and subtle complex tones that volcanic soil can impart to a dry white wine. Bright in color, golden rays of sunshine burst from a glass of this wine followed by subtle scents of blossoms, mineral, lemon zest and the sea, resplendent with its restorative freshness. Clean sophisticated flavors that underscore the wines bouquet carry through in this Lacrima Christi; culminating in a long, dry refreshing finish that cleanses the palate. We suggest serving the De Angelis Bianco Lacrima somewhere between ice cold and cool cellar temperature (40°-55° F). Enjoy!

Accompaniments: Traditional Campanian fare is the local favorite with the 2001 De Angelis Bianco Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio. And certainly spicy fish stews, fried calamari, mozzarella sticks, and thick rockfish filets, which are smothered in savory tomato based sauces make splendid accompaniments to the De Angelis Lacrima Christi. Steamed clams, mussels, and oysters provide other fine accompaniments to this wine, even when paired with a mildly piquant cocktail sauce. Guacamole, Caesar Salad, tapas, and most hors d' oeuvres will provide additional tasty companions to the 2001 De Angelis Lacrima Christi. This flavorful Lacrima also makes for a lovely aperitif, especially when accompanied by a spring breeze or the sound of the sea, or both. Buon Appetito!

Double Trouble in California's Vineyards ' Part III
This feature article is being published in four parts. Parts I and II appeared in previous months' newsletters. Look for Part IV in next month's newsletter.

Phylloxera, the world's most dreaded vine louse, can be found in virtually all of the world's important vineyards, having traveled from its origin, North America, on the rootstocks of native American varietals that had been exported to Europe and elsewhere in the 19th century. The unfortunate result was the destruction of nearly all of Europe's great vineyards, including Bordeaux and Burgundy, by the late 1880's. Since the native North American varietals (vitis labrusca and others) are naturally resistant to this root sucking vermin, no one suspected the resulting calamity. Moreover, phylloxera is the reason that the vinifera vines brought by early settlers were unable to be successfully grown in North America, despite repeated attempts by Americans, including Thomas Jefferson, to do so: the phylloxera would set upon the newly planted European vines, with their susceptible root systems, and suck the life out of any of them in a few short years. This left Americans with only their native species of grapes: Concord, Catawba, Scuppernong, Muscadine, etc. And as anyone who has tasted wine made from these American varietals can attest, 'they ain't Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, or anything else that resembles great vinifera wine.'
TO BE CONTINUED

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