Vol. 6 No. 2
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 - Chile
Murphy-Goode Reserve Fume Sauvignon Blanc 2000 - USA
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Bodegas Agapito Rico 'Carchelo' Jumilla 2001 - Spain
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Lusco Rias Baixas Albarino 2001 - Spain
Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 - Chile
Carmen is an amazing property. This great Chilean estate has the uncanny ability to consistently turn out top notch wines from each of its premium varietals, and the 2000 Carmen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is indeed another great effort from Chile's 'grande dame' of exquisite properties.
Carmen is Chile's oldest wine brand, dating back to 1850. A century and a half ago Christian Lanz founded Vina Carmen and lovingly named the estate's beautiful vineyards for his wife. Today, Vina Carmen remains the showpiece Lanz envisioned more than a century and half ago. Combining tradition, superb vineyards and a new state of the art winery constructed in 1992, Vina Carmen is currently South America's leading winery as well as its oldest. Under winemakers Alvaro Espinoza and Matias Lecaros, Carmen has for the past four years (1997, 1998, 1999, 2000) been named 'Top Winery of the Year' by Wine & Spirits magazine, and current offerings look to be the finest this winery has produced to date.
Presently, the more than 500 acres of Carmen Vineyards spread across several valleys and many micro-climates surrounding Chile's capital, Santiago. This constellation of microclimates allows Carmen to select the best grape varieties for each area and to excel with many different grapes and styles of wine. The winery has been extremely successful with French varietals, including the unique, lesser-known Bordeaux varietals, including Chile's own 'indigenous' grape, Carmenere.
Internationally renowned winemaker, Alvaro Espinoza, joined Carmen in 1993 and for the past nine years has been augmenting his reputation by producing many of South America's most compelling wines. Alvaro, known both as a winemaker and a wine grower, has also instituted organic farming at Carmen. Beginning the endeavor with a 50-acre vineyard for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay for the winery's luxury 'Nativa' label, Carmen's mission each year is to increase the vineyard parcels grown under environmental sustainable standards. Using organic methods, the winery reduces the impact upon nature as much as possible and produces increasingly more interesting wines. Presently, Carmen uses no pesticides in their vineyards and is leading the way in Chile toward more environmentally sensitive viticulture. It has also made the commitment to bottle its estate bottled Reserve red wines unfiltered.
In order to insure that Carmen's future will remain as bright as it's past, Carmen has retained the articulate and energetic Matias Lecaros as winemaker. Matias belongs to a traditional Chilean family that has been involved in agriculture and winegrowing since the 17th century. His father's family is originally from Ponguehue where they pioneered the plantation of vineyards in the Aconcaqua Valley, now one of Chile's most important viticultural appellations. Matias brings with him the ability and experience to continue Carmen's tradition of producing some of the best wines on the continent.
Tasting Notes: Reticent at first sniff, the 2000 Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon explodes after fifteen or twenty minutes open, revealing a seductive potpourri of blackberry, wild blueberry, bramble and eucalyptus. In the mouth, this wine continues to work its charm, coating the palate with rich textured fruit that is redolent with blackberry and cassis, smoke and jam. Each sip begs to be savored, pleading the gullet not to swallow and end the interlude, but alas' the goodness doesn't end with a swallow. The finish on this Carmen Cabernet combines consummate flavor with ripe tannins that haunts the senses. A medium to full-bodied wine, the 2000 Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon aptly demonstrates how well the finest Chilean reds combine the best attributes of fine Bordeaux with the ripe textured feel of the best New World Cabernet Sauvignons. We suggest serving the Reserve Carmen Cabernet after at least twenty to thirty minutes breathing time. Actually, a half hour in a decanter would work absolute magic with this wine, so be sure not to cheat yourself.
Accompaniments: 'Food? Who needs food?' someone uttered. Well, that may be true, but the 2000 Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon has the ability to elevate fine cooking to the level of 'haute cuisine' and better still, good every day fare becomes a memorable meal in the company of this excellent offering from Carmen, so why not serve it with food? We have enjoyed this wine with everything from Beef Wellington to chicken fajitas, and frankly those were the best chicken fajitas we have ever tasted. The Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon may not need food to shine, but food certainly tastes better in the company of this Cabernet. Whether it be a mid week meatloaf or a special Saturday night veal chop, we have no qualms about recommending most meats, poultry included, with this wine: roast duck is an especially fine accompaniment. We also endorse the Carmen Cabernet with hard cheeses and rich, artery clogging sauces; this unfiltered wine has a way of cutting through fat and grease, thereby assuaging the fear of instant cardiac arrest. Enjoy!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Chicken Fajitas
1-1 ½ lbs. chicken breast - cooked and sliced
1 lime
1 tsp. Worcestershire Sauce
1 large green bell pepper - sliced
2 Tbl. vegetable oil
1 Large onion sliced
1 Tbl. Soy Sauce
1 red bell pepper -sliced
¼ cup red wine
1 cup chicken broth
In a wok or large fry pan, heat oil over medium-high heat and sauté onion and pepper until wilted. Add cooked chicken and cover with wine, sauces, broth and the juice of the fresh lime.
Cook quickly while stirring until all of the chicken is well coated with juices. Serve immediately.
Murphy-Goode Reserve Fume Sauvignon Blanc 2000 - USA
Since its inception in 1985, Murphy-Goode has consistently turned out a vast portfolio of compelling wines at affordable prices from a unique family venture ' an enterprise some have described as an adventure in cooperative excellence and marketing acumen. With more than 300 acres of prime Sonoma County vineyards, Murphy-Goode is the family owned and operated winery of two neighbors and long time family friends and grape growers, Tim Murphy and Dale Goode, along with marketing guru Dave Ready. All three families actively tend the vineyards, make the wine, and handle all sales and marketing for this estate, much to the chagrin of less adept competition.
Tim Murphy and Dale Goode are known as pioneers in Sonoma County viticulture. Both men planted some of the first premium variety vineyards in Sonoma in the 1960's, the first such venture since before Prohibition. First and foremost, Tim and Dale shared a passion for farming and grape growing, and they took enormous pride in producing outstanding fruit. The two men, along with Tim's three sons, became business partners in 1980 when they leased a vineyard in Sonoma County's Alexander Valley. Subsequently, the dynamic duo teamed up with renowned wine marketer Dave Ready, and in 1985 the three families formed a family owned winery in Alexander Valley.
From the beginning the three shared a singular mission: to make excellent wine from exceptional grapes, and 'produce something that brings to mind a three day weekend.'
Now these are our kind of folks. And as true gentlemen, these guys have been true to their word as well as their mission.
First known for its Fume Blanc, Murphy-Goode is now recognized as one of Alexander Valley's best red wine producers as well, with gold medal winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, 'Liar's Dice' Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, which complement the estate's great Reserve Fume, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer. The winery draws on estate hillside vineyards and prime bench land grapes for its reserve wines, utilizing minimal intervention and natural farming techniques to produce wines that are truly special, like a long three day weekend. Hurray!
Regrettably, Tim Murphy passed away last year, but as Murphy-Goode has always been a family affair, nothing has changed in regard to the estate's wine. Tim's three sons continue to handle much of the day to day management of the vineyard, while Dave Ready's sons still make up the formidable wine making team. Dave Ready, Jr. is Winemaker and his younger brother, Adam, serves as Cellarmaster. Dale Goode and Dave Ready, Sr. still put in a full day as well. Nevertheless, California continues to mourn the loss of one of the funniest and most gregarious personalities in the world of wine: Indeed, Tim was a legend. Fortunately, he left his legacy intact, and in capable hands. We all owe Tim a debt of thanks.
Tasting Notes: The 2000 Murphy-Goode Reserve Fume is a substantial Sauvignon Blanc, amply endowed with both flavor and stature, thanks to a high percentage of the highly charged Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc. Rich in color and highly aromatic, this Fume offers up copious quantities of melon, passion fruit, pineapple, and lush spicy oak in its hedonistic bouquet. Equally plush and rich on the palate, this full-bodied Sauvignon has the weight and feel of a great Chardonnay, but with the crisp cache of spice that makes the very best Sauvignon Blanc wines so eminently appealing. No watery, grassy little Sauvignon Banc need apply at the door of the Murphy-Goode Winery; only heady, physiologically ripe fruit that can stand up to barrel fermentation and an eight month hiatus in French oak barrels can qualify for this estate's top notch Reserve Fume. If this Fume Blanc doesn't make an impression on you, no Fume will. Enjoy the 2000 Murphy-Goode Fume Sauvignon Blanc moderately chilled, but not ice cold as some of the hedonistic pleasure of this statuesque wine is lost in the numbness of over chilling, but, alas, all one has to do to conjure the full Dionysian delight in this wine is to let it warm up awhile in the glass ' that is if you don't finish the bottle first.
Accompaniments: Considering the body and fleshy style of the 2000 Murphy-Goode Reserve Fume, a multitude of complements abound. First, this succulent Fume is terrific all by its lonesome; yet, it is no shrinking violet with hard to pair dishes. And it's terrific with standard fare, too. It's nice to have dinner with someone who is easy to please and would never be described as a Prima Dona. We have enjoyed Murphy-Goode's Fume immensely with Vietnamese Spring Rolls, Hunan Chicken, and a whole Crispy Fish. Another panel-endorsed favorite is a Three Bean Chile, either with meat or vegetarian style. Grilled seafood provides other memorable pairings, as does a spicy Roast Loin of Pork, served with Spinach Wraps. Enjoy!
Recipe for White Wine
Vegetarian Chile
2 lbs. Roma tomatoes - chopped
1 large onion - chopped
2 cups red kidney beans
2 cups black beans
1 large red bell pepper-cubed
¼ cup chili powder
2 Tbl. cumin
3 Tbl. oregano
1 Tbl. oil (olive or vegetable)
2 cloves garlic - chopped
Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic, onions and red pepper and sauté until soft but not browned. Add in the tomatoes and cook for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the chili powder, cumin and oregano, over and cook on low heat for 30-40 minutes. Add the beans ( if canned make sure you rinse them well) and continue to cook for 15-20 more minutes.
Let stand for 30 minutes to absorb all the flavors before serving. This is even better if it is refrigerated and served the next day.
Bodegas Agapito Rico 'Carchelo' Jumilla 2001 - Spain
Bodegas Agapito Rico's fine array of Mediterranean style wines, especially Carchelo, has taken wine critics and savvy consumers by storm. From 175 acres located in a high, remote mountain valley in Murcia, Jumilla native Agapito Rico fashions compelling Rhone style wines from Mourvedre and Syrah, along with small amounts of Merlot and Tempranillo. In vineyards located at over 2200 feet in the desert like climate of Murcia, the indigenous Monastrell (Mourvedre) thrives on its own rootstock and a good portion of the estate's grapes are completely organically farmed. In addition, average yields are an impressively low 1.5 tons per acre, one of the lowest in Europe.
Since 1998 a completely new Bodega has been in operation, built expressly for Carchelo and fermentation by carbonic maceration or whole berry fermentation - the fermentation technique now used extensively in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Carchelo is conceived to feature the intense, fresh aromas and velvety texture and extract of the low yielding Monastrell. Carbonic maceration is used to retain the full aromatic profile of the easily oxidized Mourvedre varietal. A judicious amount of Merlot and Tempranillo adds stability and ageability, along with complexity.
It has been said that 'Spain is the sleeping giant of European wine,' but with Bodegas Agapito and the realization of great wines beginning to flow from the country's huge acreage of old vine Mourvedre, one has to wonder if the giant has indeed already awakened. Consider yourself forewarned: if you snooze, you'll lose.
Tasting Notes: A harmonious, hedonistic fruit bomb, the 2001 Bodegas Agapito Carchelo offers up copious quantities of black fruits, sandalwood, and a certain vinosity ' the likes of which one rarely sees any longer in most contemporary wines. Eminently drinkable and utterly pleasing, it is hard to imagine a wine giving the imbiber more pure pleasure for the money than the 2001 Carchelo. Deep in color, long on flavor, and smooth as silk in the finish, it is easy to see why this wine makes every important wine critic's 'Best Buy' list. A blend of 50% Mourvedre (locally known as Monastrell), 30% Tempranillo, and 20% Merlot, the Carchelo is a rare wine in its texture and intensity, as well as its cepage: Mourvedre is a very special, highly flavored grape that it is both shy -bearing and difficult to grow, but well worth the fuss. Serve the 2001 Carchelo cool or slightly chilled (20 minutes in the refrigerator), and allow it to open a few minutes in the glass before consuming, if you can wait that long. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: The 2001 Bodegas Agapito Rico Carchelo is a real crowd pleaser. Food or no food is hardly the question. The real problem with the Carchelo is having enough of it for yourself and everyone else who stops by. We (the tasting panel) have enjoyed the Carchelo on its own as well as with food, but it is certainly a fun wine to serve with a myriad of dishes. Whether you serve the Carchelo with flautas, tacos, hamburgers, ribs, pork barbecue or rack of lamb, you will find a smile in your glass as well as on your face. And while you are enjoying this wine, remember one wise old man's proverb wine: 'Wine without a friend is like life without a witness.' Enjoy the Carchelo with a friend. You'll be glad you did.
Lusco Rias Baixas Albarino 2001 - Spain
Lusco is the passion of Jose Antonio Lopez, the most important figure in the Rias Baixas. For more than two decades, Jose Antonio has been the 'Superman' behind the resurrection of the once nearly extinct Albarino varietal and the leading champion of the entire Rias Baixas appellation in Spain's Galicia.
Jose Antonio began the revival of Galicia's fabled Albarino varietal some two decades ago as founder and managing partner of the Morgadio estate. There he succeeded in recalling an obscure viticultural region to worldwide awareness by creating dry, fully ripe Albarino wines, which critics have likened to Viognier, southern France's most expensive and compelling white wine.
In order create the ultimate Albarino ' dry, exotic, intense and wholly unique ' Jose Antonio struck out on his own in 1996 with the acquisition of the renowned, mature six-acre, southeast-facing Albarino vineyard of Pazo Pineiro. Along with the region's most notable vineyard, Jose Antonio purchased the nearby 16th century manor house (Pazo), whose meter-thick walls serve as ideal insulation against temperature extremes, to serve as his winery. Lusco, from the Galician word for the pensive moments of anticipation and reflection just before dawn and dusk, presently produces the most riveting of all Albarino wines.
Tasting Notes: The 2001 Lusco Rias Baixas Albarino is a textbook example of both the famed Albarino varietal and the Rias Baixas, Spain's most illustrious white wine region. The Lusco recalls scents of early spring, when the first breathe of warm air begins to dispel winter's chill and the fresh, heaven scent of forsythia bursts forth to color the still brown land and tantalize the nose with the aroma of the annual awakening. Indeed, the bouquet of this beguiling Albarino is seductive with the draughts of early spring. Its flavor is the savor of a cold mountain spring, into which flowers and citrus blossoms have fallen. The 2001 Lusco Albarino is as exciting as it is refreshing; it's sensuous but not flashy nor is it sweet in any way. And you thought Spain only made great red wine? Drink this sophisticated wine moderately chilled (about 45°F), and enjoy the white wine glory of Spain.
Accompaniments: Grilled seafood and other tried and true fruits of the sea provide excellent accompaniments to the 2001 Lusco Albarino. Almost any baked or sauteed white fish, seafood kebob or fish chowder is almost certain to please and not overshadow the Lusco, but as a recent gathering of the tasting panel revealed, alternative cuisine and more eclectic fare offer other more exciting complements to this racy Albarino. Bulgari noodles, served with an almond tamari sauce, shrimp with aioli mayonnaise or a light remoulade, and even a breast of chicken with fruit in a pungent but not powerful Grand Marnier sauce, offer terrific pairings with Jose Antonio's heady white wine. So, we suggest a little daring and experimentation on your part. Enjoy!
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