Vol. 6 No. 1
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape 2000 - France
Mont-Marcal Reserva Cava Brut 1999 - Spain
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Colognole Chianti Rufina DOCG 1999 - Italy
White Wines Only Featured Selections
J. Moreau & Fils Chablis 2000 - France
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape 2000 - France
A proponent of the fleshy, seductive, modern style of Chateauneuf du Pape, Jerome Quiot, proprietor of Vieux Lazaret, has pushed the envelope in recent years, fashioning hedonistic, immensely pleasing wines that are unquestionably the finest wines to date from this substantial property. With over 200 acres to exploit, Quiot is one of the movers and shakers of what may be the finest appellation in France. Quiot also plays an integral role part in the appellation system in France, which not so ironically was born in Chateauneuf du Pape in the 1920's.
Blessed with a nearly ideal climate for vines and the production of red wine, Chateauneuf du Pape also possesses some of the oldest vines in France; the average age of the vines in Chateauneuf du Pape is in excess of 40 years, by far the oldest of any major appellation in France. In addition, the entire production of this great wine is hand harvested, and we haven't even mentioned the region's fabulous terroir large flat stones known as galets that provides excellent drainage as well as subtle nuances of flavor in the resulting wine.
We trust you will enjoy the charming, seductive 2000 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape as much as the tasting panel. We figured after all the gloom and doom of the past year, we all needed a special wine to start the New Year. Besides, we're worth it, don't you think? Who's better than you?
Tasting Notes: The 2000 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape is testimony to just how good old vine Grenache can be from Chateauneuf du Pape. A traditional blend of 75 % Grenache, with dollops of Syrah and Cinsault and dabs of another half dozen of the 13 permitted varietals for Chateauneuf du Pape, the 2000 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret offers up an entrancing bouquet of kirsch, black fruits and exotic spices. Fleshy, jammy, and ohhh so drinkable, you will want to consume copious quantities of this immensely drinkable wine before its 13.5 % plus alcohol catches up to you. Lush and low in acidity, the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret finishes as easily and seductively as it begins. Serve this extroverted crowd pleaser at cool room temperature (about 65° F).
Accompaniments: No self-respecting Provencal man, woman, or child could not suggest gigot d'agneau (roast leg of lamb) with a local Chateauneuf du Pape the likes of the 2000 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret; and we concur. However, the flamboyant, personality filled Domaine du Vieux Lazaret is much more than a one dish wine. We recommend this lovely Provencal wine with everything from an eggplant, fennel, and onion antipasto to a whole rare beef tenderloin. Lobster ravioli, tortellini with fresh peas and prosciutto, and four-cheese pizza are other excellent accompaniments. The Domaine du Vieux Lazaret, like most Chateauneuf du Pape, has the innate ability to elevate simple well-prepared foods to the status of haute cuisine and to highlight grande cuisine rather than overshadow it. Enjoy!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Lamb Stew
3 lbs. Lamb Stew Meat
4 Tbl. Vegetable Oil
1 tsp. Sugar 1 Bay Leaf
4 Tbl. Flour
2 cups Beef Stock
¼ tsp. Rosemary
2 Cloves Garlic - minced
4 Tbl. Tomato Paste
8-10 Small Potatoes for boiling
1 cup Sliced Carrots
12-15 Pearl Onions
Salt & Pepper, to taste
Brown stew meat in small quantities in vegetable oil and drain on paper towels. Toss the meat in a casserole dish with sugar for 5 minutes over high heat to caramelize the sugar. Add flour and toss again for a few minutes.
Add beef broth and bring to a boil, stirring well. Add the tomato paste, garlic, rosemary and bay leaf. Cover casserole and keep simmering over low heat for 1 hour. Add potatoes, carrots and pearl onions. Cover, bring to a boil then lower heat to a simmer and continue to cook until vegetable are soft. Approximately, 1 more hour. Skim fat off top of casserole and season with salt & pepper. Stir well and serve. This dish is even better tasting the next day!
Mont-Marcal Reserva Cava Brut 1999 - Spain
Mont-Marcal is Manuel Sancho's delicious Cava from his 230-acre Penedes estate named Finca Manlleu. This estate is located on a prominent chalky knoll five miles south of the fabled Villafranca del Penedes overlooking the hamlet of Mont-Marcal. This is the heart and soul of Cava Country where traditional champagne method sparkling wines reign supreme. The vast majority of Mont-Marcal is planted to Parellada, Xarelo-lo, Macabeo, and Chardonnay for the production of first rate Cava. However, the remainder of the estate is planted to the native Tempranillo, with some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, for reds. The Mont provides a rare 360? exposure, creating a wide variety of microclimates for maturation of the various varietals.
Mont-Marcal dates back to 1975 when Manuel Sancho purchased a neglected 18th century convent, converting it to a modern wine facility and commencing the resurrection of the estate's vineyards. Recent excavation has expanded the Cava aging and bottling facilities, at the same time revealing medieval underground passageways in the chalk beneath the winery. These passageways have been carefully preserved and now provide Mont-Marcal with additional bottle storage.
All of Mont-Marcal's Cava is fermented in the bottle, using the traditional champagne method known as Methode Traditionnelle. Mont-Marcal's intrinsic vineyard quality and careful handling of the grapes result in a naturally rich base wine, which requires very little dosage. The Mont-Marcal Brut Reserva is produced exclusively from indigenous white grapes (Parellada, Macabeo, and Xarrel-lo), which have been aged at least 24 months on the yeast, and then disgorged upon order for shipment. Like the finest Champagnes, the Mont-Marcal Brut Reserva is always vintage dated.
Tasting Notes: A classic Cava, the 1999 Mont-Marcal Reserva Brut exhibits a lovely pearl of a bubble that slowly beads to the top of the glass. The soft, clean scents of freshly baked bread, apple, and pear meld with the faintest hint of cinnamon and sesame to beguile the nose. On the palate light fruit, with traces of sesame and almond, caress the mouth. With Mont-Marcal's creamy center and long refreshing finish, it makes us wonder why some people insist on spending hundreds of dollars on a Champagne they don't enjoy as much. Although we have enjoyed the Mont-Marcal at almost any temperature short of heat stroke, we suggest serving this delicious Cava moderately chilled (about 50? F). Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Whether it's a weekend get together or an excellent excuse to celebrate a Monday, or maybe it is just a random act of kindness shown to a special someone, the 1999 Mont-Marcal Reserva Brut is enjoyable with or without food. It makes for a splendid aperitif, but it won't shrink from serious fare. Hors d'oeuvres, smoked salmon, with capers and onion, and grilled fish are some of our favorite pairings with the Mont-Marcal. Surprisingly, it also does well with herb charged dishes and typically hard to match legumes. Recently, we tried a black bean, corn, and tomato salad, with onion and fresh cilantro with the Mont-Marcal, and we were totally captivated by the result. Both the wine and the food seemed supercharged, taking on an added degree of flavor. Hence, it pays to be daring.
Cava: Spain's Answer to Champagne
Produced by the traditional champagne method, whereby fermentation takes place in the actual bottle, Cava is Spain's answer (some would say rebuke) to Champagne. Although the soil and method of production for Cava are nearly identical to that of Champagne, Cava is quite typically softer and less acidic than French Champagne, much to the delight of consumers.
Cava can be made almost anywhere in Spain, but it is the Catalan versions from Penedes, just outside of Barcelona, that have captured the world's attention with their consummate quality. Presently, more fine champagne method sparkling wine flows out of Catalonia than any other place on earth, including Champagne. The limestone hills beyond Barcelona provide the ideal soil, nearly identical to Champagne itself, for the cultivation of the native Parellada, Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Viura grapes for sparkling wine. With the addition of Champagne yeast during fermentation, the high acid musts of Penedes yield sparkling wines of distinctive flavor, finesse, and softness to rival Champagne itself. And where Cava has the edge is in its soft, lingering finish, the antithesis of French Champagne, which can possess just a bit too much nerve for many consumers.
Centered to the west of Barcelona around the towns of San Sadurni de Noya and Villafranca del Penedes, the production of Cava continues to take the world by storm. In the past three decades, the export of Cava has grown from a mere trickle to Spain's leading wine export. Today, Cava is the world's number one selling champagne method sparkling wine, thanks to producers like Mont-Marcal.
Recipe for White Wine
Grilled Snapper with Fruited Salsa
4 Red Snapper Fillets
Juice of 1 Fresh Lemon
½ Onion finely chopped
4 Tbl. Fresh Lime Juice
1 Ripe mango Peeled and chopped
¼ cup Orange Juice
1 tsp. Hot Sauce
In a large bowl, mix together onion, lime juice, mango, orange juice and hot sauce. Cover and chill for 1 hour. Heat grill or broiler, coat fish fillets with lemon juice and grill or broil for 5-10 minutes on each side or until fillets are cooked through. Top with fruit mixture and serve.
Colognole Chianti Rufina DOCG 1999 - Italy
It would be hard to imagine a prettier, more uniquely Tuscan estate than Contessa Gabriella Spalletti's Colognole. Situated amid more than 1500 acres of forest, olive groves, peach orchards, and pasture this lovingly restored family estate, replete with a private chapel, is not only stunningly beautiful, it also produces one of Rufina's most exciting Chiantis. Rufina, not to be confused with the brand name Ruffino, is the smallest of the seven Chianti zones, but its wines are thought to be the grandest, fullest expression of Chianti.
Spallettii, a noble family, began making wine at the famous neighboring estate of Poggio Reale, before turning to wine production several decades ago at Colognole, their family estate. Presently, there are over 100 acres of vines at Colognole. In addition to a growing production of excellent Chianti, Colognole also turns out small quantities of superb Chardonnay and first-rate olive oil. And if fine wine and olive oil are not enough to make any self respecting gourmand salivate and illicit the collective cry of field trip from the constituency of any bona fide food and wine society, the Spallettis also make their own Pecorino and Ricotta cheeses and produce their own cereal grains, fresh fruits, and more. Can you imagine what lunch or dinner is like here?
Tasting Notes: There is nothing quite so satisfying as a good glass of Chianti, and the 1999 Colognole Chianti Rufina is more than good. Wrapped in a beautiful purple robe and endowed with the haunting scents of violet, earth tone, and subtle black fruits, the Colognole embodies all the charm and grace that makes good Chianti so satisfying. This wine, like the land itself, exudes an ethereal quality that is difficult to define. Purity and what can be best described as understated elegance radiates from each sip, conjuring the sculptured beauty of the Tuscan landscape the ultimate collaboration of nature and man. Generous and round, yet worthy of extended bottle aging, the 1999 Colognole is already quite charming and easy to drink. But as good as this wine is now; it will continue to improve in the bottle for at least several more years. We suggest serving this lovely Chianti cool, as neither chilling nor heat permits all of the subtle nuances of the Colognole to emerge.
Accompaniments: Simple grilled meats, sausages and either bean or lentil based dishes are some of our favorite accompaniments to the 1999 Colognole Rufina Chianti. Homemade pasta with a fresh tomato sauce that hasn't simmered too long, bobolis or even brick oven pizzas are some other fine choices with the Colognole. We have especially enjoyed a three-cheese spinach pizza, with roasted garlic, as well as the classic ‘Margharita' with tomato and cheese with this wine. A whole rotisserie roasted chicken is another complement to the Colognole, as is rabbit or country stew. Any meat or vegetable dish that is not overpowering will provide excellent companionship for the Colognole. Enjoy!
J. Moreau & Fils Chablis 2000 - France
Founded in 1814 b Jean-Joseph Moreau, J. Moreau & Fils has been making classic Chablis wines for nearly two centuries. Know as the most important guardian of the classic, un-oaked style of dry Chardonnay that is traditional in Chablis, J. Moreau & Fils is renowned for its rich, firm, highly structured wines that consistently reflect Chablis' rare limestone kimmeridgian soil.
As one of Chablis' largest firms, J.Moreau & Fils offers the consumer an impressive portfolio of Burgundian delights. This firm's selection runs from simple house wines, modest but refreshing Petit Chablis, through to the classic Chablis, the sought after Premiers Crus, to the seven prestigious Grand Crus. True to this firm's longstanding commitment to quality, every bottle carries the J. Moreau & Fils signature and is based first and foremost on quality. We trust you will enjoy Moreau's legendary Chablis as much as we do. Salut!
Tasting Notes: A bright pale gold color highlights the famous 2000 J. Moreau & Fils Chablis, gold medal winner at Burgundy's prestigious Macon fair. Clean mineral scents, intertwined with white fruits and citrus, provide an amplifying nose. At first sip, the classic explosion of crisp, dry, flinty flavors that characterize most fine Chablis prevails, but as the wine opens, it reveals an added layer of cream that tantalizes the palate. On the finish, an array of minerals and citrus peel provide a long, subtly complex finish that lingers long after the wine is swallowed. The 2000 J. Moreau & Fils Chablis walks the walk, providing a mouth filling glass of bone dry Chardonnay that is both highly flavored and beautifully balanced. And in true Chablis fashion, the 2000 Moreau Chablis, like all of this firm's offerings, is made entirely without oak. Enjoy this fine white moderately chilled at first; then allow it to open slowly in the glass. In this way it will release all of its latent goodness and subtle charm.
Accompaniments: An ideal aperitif, the 2000 Moreau Chablis is also the classic accompaniment to oysters, shellfish, and most other assorted fruits de mer. We also recommend this classic Chablis with sushi, sashimi, and tempura. Many other traditional Japanese dishes, including shrimp, fish, and vegetable tempuras also provide highly recommended choices with the Moreau Chablis. White meats, cheese risottos, and homemade pastas in cream based sauces offer more lovely matches. As an added bonus, the 2000 Chablis should continue to evolve in bottle. It will then provide a wonderful companion to more complex dishes such as lobster and poached salmon - that is if you can muster enough discipline to wait another year or so. Enjoy!
It's a Question of Quality and Availability
Occasionally, subscribers have asked if The International Wine of the Month Club would ever offer a wine from Bolivia or Brazil, Botswana or Belarus, or some other far-flung locale. We suppose that somewhere, in someone's travels, somebody has come across a wine of distinction from one of these places, and he or she would like to share that treasure, real or imagined, with others; hence, the inquiry. The answer to the question is, sure, why not, providing the quality, value, and availability fit our stringent criteria.
Unfortunately, there are only a limited number of truly fine wine producers, who make world-class wine. Although the legion of excellent wine producers continues to grow and no single country possesses a monopoly on fine wine, the law of averages, as well as the flow of capital, technology, and tradition necessary for the production of world-class wine favor the world's ten leading producers of wine. Moreover, climate and soil also play major roles in the production of premium vinifera grapes, and without a doubt (barring a few exceptions) the leading wine producing nations have the edge in this regard. A string of exceptional vintages in Italy, France, Spain, and California has further tipped the scale in favor of the major producers.
In order to understand who the major wine producing nations are, we have compiled a list of the top 10 wine producing nations as of 1998, the last year for which complete figures are available. In order of their total production, the world's leading wine makers are Italy, France, Spain, United States, Argentina, Germany, South Africa, Australia, Chile, and Romania.
Certainly, The International Wine of the Month Club has featured wines from countries out of the top ten, and we will continue to do so, when quality, value and availability prevail. Conversely, wines from a couple of the top ten producers have never found their way to your door for the reasons mentioned previously, but we are always looking and tasting, so perhaps one day we can offer a top notch wine from Botswana, or other unlikely locale.
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