Vol. 5 No. 11
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Sonoma Creek Winery Merlot 2000 - U.S.A.
Cartlidge & Browne California Chardonnay 2000 - U.S.A.
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Bodega Huguet Can Feixes Negre Seleccio 1999 - Spain
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Georg Breuer Montosa Rheingau Riesling 1999 - Germany
Sonoma Creek Winery Merlot 2000 - U.S.A.
Sonoma Creek Winery is located in the western reaches of the Los Carneros appellation on the site of the Larsen family's old Sonoma Rodeo. Where rodeo stock, racehorses, and polo ponies once grazed, Tom and Becky Larsen now grow organic, dry-farmed grapes for their award winning wines. The heritage of the property on which Sonoma Creek Winery sits and the history of the family that has owned it since the 19th century bring to life stories of the Wild West and capture the California experience - the transformation from rough and tumble western outpost to the world's fourth largest producer of fine wine.
The young M.G. Vallejo, the Mexican Military Governor, first graced what is now Sonoma Creek Winery in June 1834 on his way to secularize the Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma, the last and most northern of the 21 California Missions. Vallejo established the town of Sonoma that would for many years be socially and politically more significant than Yerba Buena, the 'trashy little town' on the bay now known as San Francisco.
What is now Sonoma Creek Winery was once the Embarcadero, the farthest navigatable point up Sonoma Creek from San Francisco Bay. Where Chardonnay now ripens, small craft landed European visitors as early as1823. Beginning in 1847 steamboats docked there before making the return voyage to San Francisco. It was a steamboat captain who built the Civil War-era farmhouse, which now serves as the winery's main office. Tom Larsen's great grandfather, Michael Millerick, bought the house and 120 acres of surrounding land in 1899.
From 1929 to the early 1950's the Sonoma Rodeo was held on the Millerick Ranch. The largest and longest running rodeo in the Bay area, it was the event of the year in Sonoma. Thousands of fans filled the stands and feasted on beef roasted in underground pits, while world champion and hall of fame cowboys competed at the various events. To no one's surprise the locals held their own at the rodeo; one year legendary vintner August Sebastiani even won a roping trophy.
In 1977, Tom Larsen and his father decided to plant Chardonnay on the site of the old rodeo. This 40 acre block on the home ranch gradually led the family beyond home winemaking as they soon began producing more wine than they could consume themselves. In 1984 Tom earned his degree from UC Davis, the nation's foremost school of enology, and the following year Sonoma Creek Winery was founded.
Today, Sonoma Creek Winery produces a whole line of super tasty, premium Sonoma County varietals, including award winning Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir. All of Sonoma Creek's wines receive extended barrel aging in American or French oak, and in the case of the estate's reds are bottled unfined and unfiltered, a practice we wish more California producers would enact, since it results in richer, more natural tasting wines.
The history of Sonoma Creek Winery, and to a large extent that of California as well, is depicted on Sonoma Creek's label by a colorful rendition of a jumping horse, a reminder that the Wild West in California was not so long ago.
Tasting Notes: A deep purple robe smiles from the glass full of 2000 Sonoma Creek Merlot, indicating the natural, serious approach to winemaking at this estate. An amplifying nose laden with the scent of black cherry, cassis and just a hint of spice from a twelve month hiatus in oak barrel extends the warm welcome offered by this hand harvested Merlot. Black berry, plum and plush vanilla tones round out the palate profile of the 2000 Sonoma Creek Merlot, underscoring the undeniable benefits of bottling premium Merlot unfined and unfiltered. What else can we say? The Sonoma Creek Merlot is what more California Merlot producers could be making, if they put the time and effort into this noble varietal - a wine with ample fruit (not sugar), with an array of secondary characteristics to make you want to have more than one glass, and a dry finish that reminds you that real Merlot is not for 'sweet tooths'. It is no wonder that this wine has been winning awards all over the place. We suggest serving the Sonoma Creek Merlot at about 65° F.
Accompaniments: A whole range of holiday fare awaits the charm and flavor of the 2000 Sonoma Creek Merlot. Beef tenderloin, standing rib roast, roast turkey with stuffing and gravy, and pork tenderloin all make splendid accompaniments to the Sonoma Creek Merlot. In a less carnivorous vein, we also recommend a cheese and roasted red pepper Boboli, cannelloni, and a not too spicy pasta Arrabiata. Cuban Black beans, with olive oil and a dash of Tabasco, also offer a nice alternative to meat with this flavorful Merlot. However, the 2000 Sonoma Creek Merlot is about as balanced and delicious as any Merlot, making it an excellent choice to serve on its own to friends, new and old. Enjoy!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Pork with Capers and Olives
1-1 ½ lb. pork tenderloin
3 Tbl. olive oil
¼ cup red wine
4 oz. oil-cured olives
4 chopped tomatoes
salt & pepper to taste
2 Tbl. capers
1 bay leaf
1/3 cup heavy cream
½ cup beef stock
Heat a fry pan with the oil and brown pork on all sides and place in a sauce pot. Add all ingredients except the cream and bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat. Simmer gently for 45 minutes. Remove the pork to a plate and add the cream to the sauce pot. Simmer sauce until reduced and thickened. Pour over the pork and serve.
Cartlidge & Browne California Chardonnay 2000 - USA
The Cartlidge & Browne odyssey began in1980 when Tony Cartlidge and Glenn Browne teamed up to make a few cases of good wine. The duo's first venture was a modest release of 1200 cases of Chardonnay, which to their utter amazement sold out in less than a month. Needless to say, the new dynamic duo of California Chardonnay had just begun their quest for oenological excellence, and they were not about to rest on their laurels.
By 1982, the partners had begun Stratford wines with winemaker Paul Moser in the cellar, a relationship that endures today. Under Moser's guidance, Stratford wines reached nearly 80, 000 in just a few short years. Better still; the quality continued its meteoric rise, wowing consumers and critics alike. In 1992 the prestigious London International Wine Challenge voted the 1990 Stratford Zinfandel as Red Wine Of The Year from more than 3,000 entries worldwide.
Meanwhile, this great winery's Cartlidge & Browne Chardonnay was winning numerous accolades and awards. Comments such as: 'a knockout Chardonnay', 'the best value in American Chardonnay', and 'the finest domestic wine value in the marketplace' are just a sampling of the praise leveled at the Cartlidge and Browne Chardonnay. Since their first release, this winery has consistently produced fabulous Chardonnays, which have outperformed the majority of big name Napa Valley estates, and for a lot less money.
In essence, Cartlidge & Browne got it right the first time and haven't missed a step yet. The winery's 2000 Chardonnay may be their best effort to date. As in previous years the 2000 Cartlidge Browne Chardonnay is made primarily from premium grapes from the Sacramento River Delta. The balance is a blend of prime Napa and Sonoma fruit. Nearly three quarters of the wine was barrel fermented on its lies (skins and yeast) in both French and American oak barrels. After several attempts to procure enough of this great bargain, we were finally able to secure enough Cartlidge & Browne Chardonnay to offer to all of our club members. Enjoy!
An Ode To Chardonnay
America has fallen in love with Chardonnay. At times, it seems as if a significant portion of the country's wine drinking population worships this French transplant. However, the situation in this country has not always been so favorable for the most noble of white vines. A little over a generation ago, there was barely a hundred acres of Chardonnay in America. Today, there are more than 100, 000 acres of Chardonnay in California alone. Moreover, America is not alone in its idolatry: Chardonnay is the most popular white grape in the world. It is also the most widely traveled grape variety. From Burgundy in its native France, Chardonnay has traveled the seven seas, settling on six continents. Due to versatility, vigor, and adaptability, as well as the sheer number of great wines it has produced on many continents, Chardonnay has earned the title of 'The King of White Wine.'
Tasting Notes: The goodness of the 2000 Cartlidge & Browne California Chardonnay begins with a beguiling aroma of tropical fruit and exotic spice, which turns into a potpourri of ripe, round, buttery flavors on the palate. Hints of oak and pineapple infused vanilla marry to apple and lemon drop flavors in the center of this wine. And if that's not enough to tantalize the senses, a dry, utterly pleasing Burgundian-style finish begs the taste buds for an encore. A smooth flavor filled Chardonnay, the 2000 Cartlidge & Browne California Chardonnay exhibits true personality plus; this is a wine with enough charm, style and good old fashioned drinking pleasure to please even the most discerning palate. It also makes us wonder why more California producers can't turn out Chardonnays as fine and flavorful as the Cartlidge & Browne for under $25.00 a bottle. We suggest serving this lovely Chardonnay fairly well chilled, and then allowing it to warm up slowly in the glass. This will permit the wine to run through its entire gamut of delicious flavors and textures. Yum!
Accompaniments: Salmon is a natural accompaniment to the 2000 Cartlidge & Browne California Chardonnay. The fleshy, flavorful meat of fresh salmon provides what several panel members have called the 'perfect marriage for the Cartlidge & Browne Chardonnay.' Served poached or baked, in either a light cream or soy sauce, salmon takes on another dimension in the company of this Chardonnay. In turn, the Cartlidge & Browne reveals another layer of itself - a seamless brocade of fruit and oak and just enough of 'exotica' to be thoroughly captivating. Certainly, most other fish and poultry dishes make fine companions for this Chardonnay as well. Chicken salad, with walnuts, grapes and a hint of fresh thyme, is another of the panel's favorites with the Cartlidge & Browne. And remember, that special someone is worth a bottle of this wine, even without a fancy meal, so enjoy!
Recipe for White Wine
Baked Ginger-Soy Salmon
1-1 ½ lbs. fresh salmon filet
¼ cup soy sauce
2 Tbl. freshly grated ginger root
Juice from 1 large lime
¼ cup white wine
2 cloves minced garlic
1 sliced shallot
1 Tbl. sugar
4-6 lemon slices
Rinse salmon well, pat dry with paper towel and place in a roasting pan. In a mixing bowl, combine soy sauce, ginger root, lime juice, wine, garlic and sugar. Pour mixture over salmon, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°. Place shallot slices over salmon and bake uncovered in oven for 20-25 minutes. Broil for 1 minute, garnish with lemon slices and serve!
Bodega Huguet Can Feixes Negre Seleccio 1999 - Spain
The historic Can Feixes estate is situated on gravelly slopes in a high amphitheater, astride the famous Montserrat pinnacle in northern Penedes. This is the Penedes vineyard farthest from the Mediterranean, which means the climate at this estate is more continental and drier that of the surrounding vineyards. The high altitude and austere mountain terrain of this rugged area of Catalonia constitute the tiny viticultural home of the native Parellada varietal, which locally is known as Montonec ('grape of the mountain'). This estate is also the home of some of the finest, most intense Merlot, Cabernet and Tempranillo (locally referred to as Ull de Llebre) in all of Catalonia, thanks to the vineyard's premier location and unique situation.
The Can Feixas estate dates back to 1400 with the arrival of Jaumes Feixas in the upper reaches of the Penedes, and historical records indicate that wine has been produced continuously at Can Feixas since at least 1690. Whether under the auspices of the Feixas family or the Huguet's, the present owners for nearly 100 years, Can Feixas has always been considered the region's Grand Cru.
Today, the vineyard at Can Feixas comprises nearly 300 acres planted to Parellada, with some Macabeo and Chardonnay for white wines and Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet for reds. A small quantity of a special Gran Reserva Cava is also produced from traditional varietals. The Huguet brothers, Joan and Josep Maria handle all viticulture and enology respectively at their estate.
Tasting Notes: 'Patience is required to fully appreciate how great this wine is,' counseled one taster. 'I love it now. I think we should open another bottle,' replied another member of the panel as he reached for the unopened bottle. 'You can't drink that wine now. That would be "infanticide."
'You wanna bet. I want it, I like it, and I'm going to drink it now! After a moment, in which the two belligerents glared at each other, the bottle in question was opened, and all partook of a second glass, including the moralist.
Well, enough said. It's obvious some people just have more discipline than others. Indeed, the 1999 Can Feixes Negre Seleccio is one big, deep down, highly extracted Grand Cru Bordeaux-style red, but oooh boy is it tasty now. Allow this hunk of a wine to breathe an hour or two or longer, but if you can't, we understand. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: The 1999 Can Feixes Negre Seleccio is a wine to warm the bones and dispel the winter's chill. Tremendous flavor and a boatload of ripe, well-integrated tannins make the Negre Seleccio the perfect wine for hearty fare. This is the wine you want to serve when you desire strength, vigor and a warm fire. It s is also the wine to serve with all the less than heart healthy fare you may care to indulge in. Rare roast beef, the creamiest cheeses you can muster, and everything else the cardiologist forbade. Havarti cheese is our personal preference with the Can Feixes, so bring on the fat!
Georg Breuer Montosa Rheingau Riesling 1999 - Germany
Georg Breuer founded Weingut Georg Breuer in 1880, in partnership with the venerable shipping firm of Scholl and Hillebrand. Subsequently, Breuer purchased the estate outright and passed it on to his sons Bernhard and Heinrich, the current proprietors. Under the expert direction of the Breuers, this estate has been carefully expanded over the years to its present 54 acres, all in the great Rheingau communes of Rudesheim and Rauenthal - the most prestigious of the Rhine's many fabulous wine villages. Breuer's best sites include a major portion of Rudesheim's dramatic, precipitous Berg Schlossberg and all of Rauenthal's Nonnenberg. Both are Grand Cru (Erstes Gewachs in Germany) vineyards.
Today, Breuer is synonymous with authenticity in Germany. Bernhard Breuer was instrumental in forming the Rheingau Charta grower's association - the forerunner of Erstes Gewachs (Grand Cru) authentic Riesling movement. He was also the founding director of the German Wine Academy, and he has co-authored many books on the German wine regions. Breuer is respected internationally as a tireless defender of German viticultural integrity.
Breuer makes three distinguished Riesling wines: Berg Schlossberg, Nonnenberg, and Montosa. All are made dry. Montosa, meaning steep mountain slopes in Latin, is an unusually complex wine that combines the best attributes of the steep hand picked slopes of Rudesheim and Rauenthal. All of Breuer's wines are meant for the serious table. They are age worthy, investment-quality wines of the highest order, regarded with considerable awe by the international trade and press.
Tasting Notes: A racy aromatic wine, the 1999 Georg Breuer Montosa Rheingau Riesling combines precise balance with high extract and deep flavor. The product of slate soils, disciplined harvesting, and miniscule yields the Breuer Montosa tantalizes the nose with scents of pure mineral, white peach, and lemon zest. Rich, oily, and almost unctuous on the palate one braces for the sugary, sweet flavor that characterize so many other German wines, but instead a dry Chablis Grand Cru style finish completes the artistry of Breuer's Montosa. Long and lingering, the pure rich flavor of 100% Rheingau Riesling remains in the mouth a full minute after swallowing the Montosa. Wow! There is plenty of zip to this wine, so no need to be concerned about any residual sugar. Enjoy this flavor packed Riesling moderately cool (about 55°).
Accompaniments: The 1999 Georg Breuer Montosa Rheingau Riesling is easy to accompany: it calls for only the best. Whether it be oysters or lobster, pheasant or foie gras, Breuer's wines like only the best. We suggest marrying distinct flavors, not ponderous sauces, with this Breuer offering. Then watch the wine perform. Vietnamese cuisine offers some wonderful accompaniments, as does Japanese tempura. We also suggest you try sipping this extraordinary Riesling all by itself for the full impact. Enjoy!
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