Vol. 4 No. 9
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
1998 Chateau Recougne Bordeaux Superieur
2000 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
1998 Pockl Zweigelt Classique
White Wines Only Featured Selections
1999 Weingart Fred Loimer "Langenloiser" Gruner Veltliner
Chateau Recougne Bordeaux Superieur
Chateau Recougne is a historical Bordeaux estate with more than 400 years of experience. Laying claim to having hosted France’s "good king", Henri IV, in the early 17th century, this exemplary chateau is said to have received its name "Recougne", meaning recognition, from the King himself – no doubt in recognition of the estate’s fine red claret, which this beautifully restored chateau still produces today.
In order to maintain the chateau’s outstanding reputation and to further improve the wine’s quality, the present owners, the Milhade family have invested in modern equipment and adopted quality practices and techniques that are normally found only at the highest level of Classified Bordeaux Chateaux. The Milhade’s are not afraid to exclude or declassify half of their crop in order to make top notch Bordeaux at Chateau Recougne. Making first rate Bordeaux that reflects the terroir and tradition of each of their estates is what this great family does best. Chateaux Recougne is without a doubt, the finest Bordeaux Superieur we have encountered.
Bordeaux: A Land Time Has Definitely Not Forgotten
Bordeaux is the world’s largest fine wine producing region, encompassing some 600,000 acres spread over dozens and dozens of communes, many of which produce the world’s most collectible and expensive wines. This renowned viticultural area is also the traditional home of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, "the three musketeers" of vines responsible for nearly all the red wine of Bordeaux (the illusive Malbec and Petit Verdot still play very minor roles in the cepage at some top estates.)
Bordeaux, meaning beside the waters, refers to the region’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and its estuary, the Gironde, for which this viticultural department (the American equivalent of county or state) is named. Bordeaux, is also at the center of the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers which flow into the Gironde, redoubling this ancient land’s effort to live up to its name. Furthermore, it is Bordeaux’s proximity to the sea which provides a stable, moderate climate so favorable to the production of great wine.
Since the first century BC, when the Romans referred to this viticultural paradise as "Biturigiaca", Bordeaux has been a source of fine wine. Known to Roman Emperors, poets and Popes, Bordeaux has enjoyed the envy of the wine producing world longer than any other wine region on earth. From Pliny to modern critics, Bordeaux wines, particularly the reds, have never gone out of favor.
Although seemingly bucolic, the ancient towns and communes that comprise Bordeaux have known more than their share of turmoil. Indeed, it was Bordeaux that was at the center of the conflict between England and France during the Hundred Years War. And, throughout history, the nearly incessant hostilities and economic sanctions imposed by feuding European monarchs, has caused Bordeaux fortunes to rise and fall, though its wines have remained highly sought after commodities and prized collectibles notwithstanding. Presently, Bordeaux wines are enjoying perhaps their greatest popularity ever, sparked by peacetime stability, the world-wide demand for fine red wine and a young coterie of dedicated growers who are bent on pushing the envelope on quality. No greater evidence exists of this renaissance than the great work being done at the lesser know appellations most notably by the Milhade family at Chateau Recougne and Chateau Des Annereaux, which are located in the Bordeaux Superieur and Lalande de Pomerol appellations, respectively. Fortunately, Bordeaux is not a land that time forgot. It is alive and well in its third millennia, supplying the world with millions of bottles of top-notch red wine. Long may this "red tide" rise.
Tasting Notes: Forget any preconceived notions or less than stellar experiences you may have had with other Bordeaux Superieur, the 1998 Chateau Recougne exceeds all expectations. This recently revitalized Appellation is on a roll, and Chateau Recougne is in the forefront of the Renassance sweeping the Bordeaux Superieur Appellation. From its deep garnet robe to its long, lingering finish, the 1998 Chateau Recougne redefines the quality quotient in this part of Bordeaux and acts like a first class Medoc, shaming even many more famous offerings from that illustrious Appellation. Scents of blackberry, wood smoke cedar and clean earth fold into a single, tantalizing olfactory statement. In what seems like one seamless garment, the aroma and flavor meld, caressing the palate with the unmistakable flavor of Cabernet Sauvignon and the textured feel of Merlot. In the finish, Chateau Recougne makes you take notice: the wine finishes with the strength of ripe, textured tannins and a long flavor profile, lingering for a full twenty seconds after swallowing. Chateau Recougne is fully enjoyable with 30 minutes breathing, but the wine’s superb balance fruit and tannin bodes well for its future development; we bet this lovely claret will continue to inspire for at least another 4-5 years. Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Fine cuts of veal, beef or lamb and more refined fare are the traditional, tried and true accompaniments to good Bordeaux. With its full flavor and moderate tannins, Chateau Recougne provides an excellent choice for a dinner party and affords the host a great deal of versatility. So, if beef or lamb are not to your liking, we have satisfied a discerning group of "gourmands" with chicken breasts in a highly charged Dijon mustard sauce. We even propose some off-beat dishes like lamprey, kidney, or even sweetbreads with the Chateau Recougne. Providing these dishes are properly prepared, this excellent Bordeaux will more than hold its own. And with another year or two in the bottle, we believe it will surpass most Chateau bottled Bordeaux at twice the price. A votre sante!
Recipe for Red Wine:
Grilled Dijon Chicken Breasts
6 chicken breast halves – pounded thin
2 Tbl. Dijon mustard
2 Tbl. lime juice – freshly squeezed
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 sweet onion – thinly sliced
1 clove garlic - crushed
pepper
3 Tbl. white wine
1 Tbl. vegetable oil
In a small bowl, blend mustard, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce and pepper. In a roasting pan, place onion slices, garlic, wine and oil. Bake in oven (350°) for 5-7 minutes or until onion starts to sizzle, slightly, cool and then add the mustard mixture and then the chicken breasts. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 hour.
Over medium heat, grill chicken breasts for 20-30 minutes with onions on top or wrapped in aluminum foil. Discard remaining marinade.
Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc 2000
Haunted by history and romance, the Sonoma Valley was called "Valley of the Moon" by the Native Americans who inhabited the area. As the moon ascended in the evening sky, it appeared to rise, again and again over the peaks and glens of the Mayacamas mountain range. Thus, the moon in all its phases is the symbol for Valley of the Moon Winery and Vineyards, located in the very heart of the Sonoma Valley. The etched design on the bottle of each Valley of the Moon wine depicts the lunar phases surrounded by a "cosmos" of white dots, and the expression of moonlight, the reflected light of the sun.
The land on which the Valley of the Moon Winery and Vineyards is located has an illustrious past. Once, it was part of the vast 48,000 acre Agua Caliente Land Grant owned by General Mariano Vallejo, the 19th century Mexican Governor of California. Subsequently, the property changed owners several times until 1863 when the "Stone Tract" portion of the property was conveyed to Mr. George Whitman. According to the best records, Mr. Whitman was the first owner to grow wine grapes on the land. He also built a winery there and by 1876 his enterprise was a hugely successful one, annually producing 50,000 gallons of wine and 2,000 gallons of brandy. Several years later and several owners later, this property would become a serious winemaking operation. One of the owners was George Hearst, father of the now famous newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst.
Today, the Valley of the Moon Winery and Vineyards is distinguished by the marriage of its rich history with a state-of-the-art wine production facility. Unfortunatley, like most California vineyards, the Valley of the Moon property languished during Prohibition and its aftermath, awaiting the wine Renaissance of the 1960’s and 70’s. Under the guidance of present owner Mike Lee, this property has been resurrected.
Embracing the traditions of Sonoma County, one of the world’s most famous wine growing areas, the creation of Valley of the Moon wine begins with hand selecting the absolute highest quality fruit available – from the estate’s vineyards and those of a few select growers in Sonoma County. As vineyard management is, quite simply, the most important part of winemaking, these vineyards are chosen on the basis of their long histories of producing the absolute highest quality fruit. These Valley of the Moon properties are blessed with days warmed by the sun – a "banana belt" type microclimate, which allows the grapes to develop deep, rich flavors and colors. And, the cool Sonoma Valley evenings, characterized by the nightly fog banks that roll in from the Pacific Ocean into the Sonoma Valley, keep the fruit at an optimum temperature.
Valley of the Moon produces traditional red and white varietals, bottling an outstanding Zinfandel from a vineyard planted in the 1940’s, a Syrah, a Sangiovese, a Barbera and a Meritage called Cuvee de la Luna, in addition to the winery’s benchmark Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay offerings. When Valley of the Moon wines are bottled they are in a range of twenty-five to thirty-five parts per million free-sulfites. This is a very low percentage, especially for white wines. Furthermore, Valley of the Moon uses no other preservatives in its wines due to improved filtration technology and a philosophy that espouses healthy, natural tasting wines.
Tasting Notes: Exhibiting a ripe, textured nose laden with the scent of pear, apricot and the pure fresh ripeness of Sonoma County, the 2000 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc is a feast for the senses. Gaining length, depth and flavor as it airs, each sip of this luscious, full throttle Pinot Blanc demonstrates why Pinot Blanc is a premium varietal that deserves much more recognition in California than it presently receives. Preserving more of its natural acidity in warm climates than Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc often produces a better balanced, more complete wine than its more ubiquitous rival; not surprisingly, this Valley of the Moon offering is no exception. It’s a pleasure to drink form start to finish; neither an edge not a hint of flabbiness presides. Ripe, sensual fruit, balanced by the characteristic raciness of this varietal renders this Valley of the Moon offering the perfect white wine. Although we enjoyed this wine when well chilled, it truly becomes something special when it approaches 55°-60° F, testimony to the adage that "Americans drink red wine too warm and good white wine too cool". Enjoy!
Accompaniments: Given the full flavor, structure and vigor of the 2000 Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc, you won’t find too many spicy, full-flavored dishes that can truly overwhelm this buxom beauty. Aside from red meat dishes, we think you’ll find this Pinot Blanc to be receptive to most food pairings, including many hard to match foods, We recommend everything from grilled pork chops to mako shark steaks in a ginger sauce, even a spicy Middle Eastern tuna salad with falafel is at home with this wine. This Valley of the Moon offering also makes a wonderful foil to Vietnamese food. Spring rolls and skewered appetizers served with either a sweet and sour sauce or a full-throttle peanut and garlic sauce, are wonderful pairings. Yet, simply prepared foods equally complement the Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc; they accentuate the wine’s extroverted personality and rich nuance of flavor. As you like it.
Recipe for White Wine:
Mako Shark with Ginger Sauce
1 lb. fresh Mako shark steaks1 root fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic - minced
1 lime
1 Tbl. olive oil
¼ cup white wine
3 Tbl. soy sauce
Red pepper flakes – a pinch
Rinse steaks and place in glass baking dish. In a bowl, blend garlic, juice from lime, oil, wine, soy sauce. Grate in 2 tablespoons of fresh ginger. Pour mixture over steaks and sprinkle with red pepper flakes. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Remove cover and bake in hot oven at 400° for 20-25 minutes or grill 5-7 minutes on each side over high heat.
Pockl Zweigelt Classique 1998 - Austria
The Pockl Zweigelt winery is located in pastoral Burgenland, about 60 miles southeast of Vienna. Burgenland is an extremely rural region of scattered small villages and family farms, with few towns of significant size. Many of the best vineyards of the region are within a few kilometers of the shores of Lake Neusiedle. The vineyards around this long, shallow lake (more than 20 miles long but no more than five feet deep at any point) have long been recognized as one of Austria’s finest growing areas for red grapes, but until recently very little of Burgenland’s wine was exported. This is a viticultural region whose image has been largely shaped by small scale, rustic wine growers rather than by any large commercial wineries. The average vineyard holding region is slightly less than 4 acres, and is typically planted with native Austrian varietals such as Blaufrankisch, St. Laurent, Furmint and the classic Zweigelt.
The Pockl winery is owned by Josef Pockl and family, who are also the only employees at this 25 acre estate. Josef Pockl, long ignored by wine critics as just another country farmer, was recently voted the best red winemaker in Austria, praise well deserved. Pockl’s philosophy is to make wines retaining their traditional Austrian character, and which reflect the soil and flavors of Burgenland. His largest production is Zweigelt, the classic red of Austria, but with characteristic curiosity and imagination Pockl has also planted Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Nebbiolo, and even Zinfandel.
Tasting Notes: "So what does Zweigelt taste like, you ask?" "Well…like Zweigelt, which is a cross of Blaufrankisch (Gamay) and St. Laurent, another, (typically Austrian varietal. This varietal, first conceived by Dr. Zweigelt, produces a fine medium-bodied red wine with well defined fruit in Pockl’s hands. Wild strawberry, plum and cola flavors predominate in the 1998 Pockl Zweigelt, rendering it not unlike a Grand Cru Beaujolais from Morgon after a few months in small oak barrel. Deeply colored and full of flavor, it is easy to see why this varietal now makes up as much as 25% of the Austrian red wine production. Drink this wine at cool room temperature.
Accompaniments: Goulash, lamb stew and other highly charged, spiced dishes pair handsomely with the Pockl Zweigelt. In particular, we recommend country pork barbecue, sliced or chopped, baked beans, thick brown bread and slaw. Wurst, country hams and deli meats also complement the bold flavors of this Zweigelt. We suggest allowing the wine to breathe for a half hour while you grill or prepare some hardy, stick to your ribs fare, and enjoy!
Weingart Fred Loimer "Langenloiser" Gruner Veltliner 1999 – Austria
Fred Loimer is a young winemaker who leaves nothing to chance, preferring to forge ahead with complete confidence in his own style, and self prescribed ‘quality obsession’. "There is no other secret", Loimer confides… "either in the vineyard or the winery." In addition, Loimer like so many ambitious winemakers of his generation (he is 37 years old) has gone abroad and gained practical experience, before settling in his native Langenloiser.
After completing his studies at Austria’s most prestigious wine school at Klosterneuberg, Loimer spent several years in Germany and California, "learning by doing," he says. His experience in California has led to a great deal of successful experimentation, including barrel ageing for a number of his wines; all white. Recently, Loimer’s barrel aged Pinot Gris and Chardonnay have silenced even the staunchest opponents of barrel ageing, but true to his Austrian heritage, Loimer’s greatest strengths are numerous offerings of excellent Gruner Veltliner, a spry, racy, personality-filled grape that Austria calls its own.
Tasting Notes: If you’re expecting the 1999 Loimer Gruner Veltliner or most Gruner Veltliner for that matter, to even vaguely resemble the sweet or even semi-sweet white wines of Germany, you’re in for a surprise. Loimer’s Gruner Veltliner is bone dry. Its bright, fresh robe sets the tone for the clean, racy, citrus aromas that one expects from French Chablis or the best white wines of Italy. Lemon, straw and an ever so subtle backdrop of indescribable spice and mineral pervades the palate, and the wine finishes as dry and utterly thirst quenching as any we’ve tasted. Serve this Loimer Gruner Veltliner fairly well chilled, and then let it open a few minutes in the glass.
Accompaniments: Whether it’s pasta or schnitzels, the 1999 Loimer Gruner Veltliner has enough personality to shine. We have especially enjoyed this wine with moderately seasoned Italian-style seafood, most notably shrimp and pasta in a garlic and basil tomato sauce. Lightly fried foods; Weiner Schnitzel, tempura, even fried oysters are other excellent choices. The Loimer has the uncanny ability to cleanse the palate, thereby heightening the natural flavors in food. So even spicy Asian dishes with moderate amounts of soy, ginger or hot pepper make good accompaniments to Loimer’s most refreshing 1999 Gruner Veltliner. Probst!
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