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Vol. 4 No. 5

Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
1999 Domaine Michel Goubard Mont Avril Bourgogne Pinot Noir - France
1999 Casa Lapostolle Casablanca Chardonnay - Chile

Red Wines Only Featured Selections
1997 Luigi Righetti "Campolieti" Valpolicella Classico Superiore - Italy

White Wines Only Featured Selections
1999 Domaine Sarda-Malet Cotes du Roussillon Blanc 1999 - France

Domaine Michel Goubord "Mont Avril" Cote Chalonnaise 1999

Domaine Michel Goubard is well known in France for producing elegant, flavorful red and white Burgundies. Goubard's wines offer the consumer a rare look at authentic Burgundy, a unique commodity indeed. Consistently, this domaine turns out some of the most pleasing of this appellation's offerings, including "Mont Avril", a delicate, pure, fruit-driven Pinot Noir that reflects the supreme delicacy and charm for which the Cote Chalonnaise is justifiably famous.

The wines of Domaine Goubard have graced the Cote Chalonnaise, a lovely, picturesque portion of southern Burgundy, since 1604. For four centuries, the descendants of the Honorable Francois Goubard, who is buried nearby in the tiny village chapel of Russilly, have nobly served the name by producing fine wines on the Cote Chalonnaise. Today, the gregarious Michel Goubard continues to perpetuate this family's long lineage of wine growers in this pastoral paradise.

Goubard's flagship vineyard is "Mont Avril", a forty-eight acre holding whose name has always been dear to the hearts of the lovers of Burgundy. In the 19th century, the revered abbot and historian Courtepee noted, "Through the parsonage window, I discovered the village and the slopes of Mont Avril, whose wine are renowned." And, in 1990, wine critic Robert Parker wrote: "Michel Goubard has made many friends with his delicious Mont Avril red Burgundy, which is a superb wine with fresh earth and red fruit aromas."

A fierce defender of the renewal of his "terroir", Michel Goubard was one of the chosen vigneron who fought for the recognition of the AOC (or individual Appellation of Origin) for the Cote Chalonnaise in 1990. The Domaine, exclusively planted with noble grapes, Pinot Noir (75%), Chardonnay (20%) and Aligote (5%), is the very example of the return to excellence of the great Burgundy wines the Cote Chalonnaise has been making for eons.

Burgundy is indeed capable of producing great wines thanks to its incomparable subsoil, to its traditional grape varieties and…to its wine growers know-how. Few products offer the reflection of their creator as much as wine does. Michel Goubard is a passionate man, whose nature reflects great generosity, inner strength and joy - the very qualities he seeks to impart onto his wines. Through this sensual link to the land and the work he loves, one feels a real sense of accomplishment in the part of Goubard rather than mere achievement. Bravo!

Burgundy: A Wine As Well As A Place

Since the Middle Ages, Burgundy has produced some of the finest and most expensive wines in the world: wines that are steeped in tradition as well as skullduggery, wines that are as often savored as grossly misunderstood. In reality, Burgundy is more than a single wine; it is the produce of six major regions: Chablis, and the Auxerrois, the Cotes Nuits, the Cote de Beaune, the Cote Chalonnaise, the Maconnais and Beaujolais.

The name, Burgundy, alone conjures an image of a deep, dark, sometimes course potion that bears little or no resemblance to French Burgundy - the one and only real Burgundy. Burgundy is grown exclusively in central-eastern France, on the right bank of the Soane River. This is hardly the ideal climate for producing consistently great wines; and due no doubt to the frequent inclemency of the weather, pruning for high yields (which dilutes the wine), and a relatively short vatting time (the length of time the fermenting must is left on the skins to draw color and extract), Burgundy usually produces a light, delicate wine that bears no affinity to its image or to the old-fashioned domestic blends that bore the "Burgundy" name. And, what may still come, as a surprise to some is that some of Burgundy's finest wines are white as well as red. To further complicate matters, Burgundy also produces vast amounts of sparkling wine and rose, too. For the best red Burgundies, Pinot Noir is the only legal red grape, while Chardonnay (occasionally mixed with Pinot Blanc) is the flagship white varietal.

Clearly, Burgundy is much more than a single wine or one great vineyard; it is a special place, a land almost entirely devoted to wine in one fashion or another. It is also the ancient realm of the Dukes of Burgundy, hallowed ground that has produced some of the world's greatest wines for over two thousand years. Although no one knows who planted the first vines in Burgundy, or whether they were indigenous, it is clear that the Romans found vines being cultivated the in the first century A.D.; and they quickly set about matching soil and climate conditions to individual grape varieties.

By the time of Louis XIV and until the French Revolution, Burgundy was the preferred beverage of the Kings of France. Louis XIV, as well as Fagan, his less than adept physician, were great admirers of the suave, savory wines of Burgundy. It goes to show you, no one is all bad.

After the Revolution, the great vineyards of Burgundy were sold by the state, often piecemeal. Thus, single vineyards may still exist, but they have dozens, sometimes hundreds of individual growers, producing wines of widely varying quality. What makes Goubard's Mont Avril so special is that it remains intact, primarily under one name, which has become synonymous with quality, value and honesty. A votre sante!

Tasting Notes: The scent of cherry blossom and violet permeate the bouquet of the elegantly wrought 1999 Domaine Michel Goubard Mont Avril Bourgogne Pinot Noir. As this wine airs, its bouquet takes on complexity and definition. In the mouth, the wine is silky, pure and satisfying, reflecting the natural, non-invasive techniques practiced at the domaine. These gentle techniques preserve the essential character and freshness of the wine, resulting in a soft, pretty authentic Burgundian Pinot Noir, rather than the overly chaptilised, "beefed up" versions that many producers have for far too long passed off as genuine Burgundy. In this light, but lovely Cotes Chalonnaise, Goubard has continued the ethereal beauty of Burgundy: elusive scents and flavors, reminiscent of an April wood, a wild hillside orchard and the whiff of strawberry, play through the mouth before slipping away in an unobtrusive finish. We suggest serving this wine at cellar temperature (55-60 F), allowing it to air for an hour. Extended breathing time brings out the subtleties and round, gentle qualities that make this Michel Goubard offering so appealing.

Accompaniments: The savory, sensual country fare of Burgundy is the obvious choice with the 1999 Domaine Michel Goubard "Mont Avril" Cote Chalonnaise Pinot Noir. Yet, this wine also shows a great affinity for more contemporary cuisine. A seared Asahi tuna, scallops in a light cream sauce or a compote of fresh goat cheese with roasted eggplant in a tomato coulis all provide fine choices with this Goubard offering. In a more mid-week vein, we always enjoy a plain, herb roasted chicken with the exuberant "Mont Avril". And, of course, turkey, ham and pork make wonderful accompaniments to this delightful Pinot Noir, too. On a traditional note, a well-prepared Coq au Vin provides a memorable experience, as does salmon or sea bass in a puff pastry. Enjoy!

Recipe for Red Wine:

Herb Roasted Chicken

2 large chickens - quartered
1 cup flour
2 shallots - minced
5 tsp. chives - chopped
2 Tbl. parsley - chopped
3 tsp. fresh tarragon - chopped
1 lemon
1 stick butter
4 slices toast
salt & pepper
½ cup sherry
2 tsp. fresh or dried rosemary

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Remove any gizzards or necks from chicken. In a Ziploc bag, combine flour, salt, pepper, ¼ cup lemon juice and half of all spices. Add a few chicken pieces at a time and coat until well seasoned. Place pieces skin side down in a buttered baking dish and sprinkle with remaining lemon juice and cover with aluminum foil.

In a saucepan, combine butter any remaining lemon juice, sherry and the remaining herbs. Heat until the butter is melted. Pour over chicken pieces. Bake the chicken pieces for 1 ½ - 2 hours. Baste every now and then to keep meat moist. The last twenty minutes of cooking, remove aluminum foil and turn up heat to 400 degrees. Serve over toast.

Quote for Red Wine:

"Through the parsonage window, I discovered the village and slopes of Mont Avril, whose wines are renowned."
----Abbe Courtepee, 19th century historian

Casa Lapostolle Casablanca Chardonnay 1999 - Chile

Casa Lapostolle is the newest venture of the Marnier-Lapostolle family, founders and proprietors of the world-renowned liqueur, Grand Marnier. While best known for producing spirits and liqueurs, this celebrated family has been involved in winemaking for generations in France. Originally winegrowers in the Loire Valley, the Marnier-Lapostolles continue this vintner tradition today as owners of Chateau de Sancerre, as well as Casa Lapostolle.

In creating Casa Lapostolle, the Marnier-Lapostolle family has pursued the same uncompromising approach to quality that made Grand Marnier a worldwide success. Their objective is simple as it is ambitious; to create world-class wines using French expertise and the superb terroir of Chile. After just four vintages, well-deserved critical acclaim has established Casa Lapostolle as one of the world's premier producers of wine.

The strict adherence to traditional French winemaking techniques, combined with state-of-the-art facilities and a superb microclimate in the Rapel Valley, have made Casa Lapostolle one of the new shining stars in the world of wines today.

When the Marnier-Lapostolle family decided to expand their fine wine business, they conducted extensive studies of vineyards throughout the world. They sought the ideal climate and soil conditions for the creation of truly world-class wines and found them, after an exhaustive search, in Chile, in the Rapel Valley, 100 miles south of Santiago.

Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, Chairperson of the new Casa Lapostolle Winery, wisely recruited world-renowned winemaker Michel Rolland to create their selection of distinctive New World wines. Protected by coastal mountains, the area enjoys warm days and cool nights, ideal growing conditions for producing perfectly ripe, balanced grapes. A $3 million renovation of the winery was undertaken to update all facilities, insuring the preservation of balance and the natural pure fruit character in the wine.

The Marnier Lapostolle family has vowed that Casa Lapostolle will remain a small winery, producing only limited quantities of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, in order to insure that its wines will always be of the highest quality. And just one taste of this estate's wine will tell you why Robert Parker Jr. and other wine critics have been singing the praises of Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle: her mission is simple, she creates only the best at Casa Lapostolle.

The Difference

It is Casa Lapostolle's total commitment to quality that makes the difference in the estate's wines. Unquestionably, this difference starts in the vineyard. For example, Casablanca is one of Chile's coolest and driest winegrowing regions, making it ideal for cool climate varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Casa Lapostolle uses Casablanca fruit in both its Classic and Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnays. The cool climate and resulting ripe, tropical fruit aromas and firm structure of these wines is reminiscent of California's Carneros region, which yields many of the most expensive and satisfying of New World Chardonnays.

All grapes used in Casa Lapostolle's wines are hand harvested in small picking baskets. This keeps each cluster intact, allowing the grapes to arrive at the winery at peak condition, preventing the oxidation that occurs with mechanical harvesting.

Casa Lapostolle is one of the few wineries that use double jacketed tanks, permitting absolute temperature control of the fermentation. While refrigeration of fermentation tanks has been a common practice for years with white wine, until recently red wine fermentations were not controlled. The cold autumn evenings in Chile made the addition of hot water jackets to fermenters vital to maintain the warm fermentation temperatures needed to make this estate's rich red wines.

Undoubtedly, no expense has been spared at Casa Lapostolle to create the best possible wines. Nearly all barrel aging (as well as fermentation) is done in specially selected French oak barrels, of which a large percentage of the 3500 barrels at Casa Lapostolle are new. Aging after bottling, prior to release and shipping, is also an important element of Casa Lapostolle's commitment to quality. All wines are given several months of bottle aging in a temperature-controlled warehouse prior to shipping. Casa Lapostolle's dedication to quality does not stop once the wine has left the winery. It is the only Chilean winery to ship all wines bound for the U.S. in refrigerated containers. Now that's progress. Such expensive practices not only underscore this family's commitment to excellence, but they reveal their dedication to optimum consumer enjoyment. Bravo!

Tasting Notes: The 1999 Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay combines the suavity and elegance of white Burgundy with the broad, buttery flavors of a top notch California Chardonnay. In the nose, pure, ripe fruit is mingled with subtle mineral tones, underscoring the significance of "terroir" in the production of world class Chardonnay. A seamless mélange of white fruits: apple, peach and pear remind the taster that this is no ordinary New World offering. Butter and vanilla, emanating from the intelligent use of oak barrel aging, add complexity and definition to this wine, without overshadowing the clean fruit and subtle nuance of the wine itself. From the first sip to the last swallow, the 1999 Casa Lapostolle offers a rich, fulfilling glass of Chardonnay that doesn't fatigue the palate: instead, it gains length, depth and interest the more you drink it and the longer it breathes. Serve lightly chilled, but not icy, for optimum enjoyment.

Accompaniments: We suggest the "classics" with the 1999 Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay, simply because this wine is as good or better that many of its more renowned Burgundian counterparts - the traditional accompaniments to Haute Cuisine. Well prepared quenelles of fish, poultry or veal all make first-rate offerings with this atypical Chilean Chardonnay. Poached salmon in a complex béchamel or veloute, lobster ravioli, and the classic Coquilles St. Jacques are other outstanding backdrops for the Casa Lapostolle. The old adage, " when you have it, flaunt it" definitely pertains to this outstanding South American wine. Of course, you won't regret sitting around sipping the Casa Lapostolle either. In fact, why not have a party and impress your friends? Enjoy!

Recipe for White Wine:

Coquilles St. Jacques

1 cup dry white wine
¼ tsp. salt & pepper
1 lb. fresh scallops (washed)
1 bay leaf
2 shallot - minced
4 Tbl. butter
3 Tbl. flour
¾ cup milk
2 egg yolks
¾ cup cream
4 ounces Swiss cheese - grated

In a large skillet, simmer wine, salt, pepper, bay leaf and shallots for 5 minutes. Add the scallops to the wine and simmer, covered on low for 5 minutes. Remove scallops to a warm plate and set aside.

Over high heat, reduce liquid to about 1 cup. In a separate saucepan, melt butter and add flour slowly and cook while stirring for 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and slowly blend in the reduced liquid from scallops. Add the milk and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes.

In a bowl, mix together yolks and add a small amount of the hot sauce into them. Gradually add all the sauce and then return the entire mixture to sauce pan and cook over low heat for 2-3 minutes. If the mixture is too thick you can add more cream or milk. Blend ½ of the sauce with the scallops. Butter heatproof bowls or scallop shells and spoon the scallops into them, cover the rest with sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. Arrange them on a broiler pan and broil 2 minutes just before serving.

White Wine Quote:

"Wine has been the foremost of luxuries to millennia of mankind."
----Hugh Johnson

Luigi Righetti "Campolieti" Valpolicella Classico 1997

The Luigi Righetti Winery has always been a bonafide azienda agricola, or family run estate. Angelo Righetti first earned a reputation as an outstanding winemaker over 80 years ago, and commenced a long-standing tradition of quality and distinction in wine.

The estate is located in Valgatara, a small part of Marano Di Valpolicella, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico zone of production. The winery takes pride in its two most beloved wines: "Campolieti" Valpolicella Classico Superiore and "Capitel de' Roari" Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico.

Righetti's most popular wine is his "Campolieti" Valpolicella Classico Superiore. The name "Campolieti" means "happy fields" and refers to the vineyard from which this excellent wine is produced as well as the joyous reaction of the many loyal Luigi Righetti customers upon their first taste of this estate's wine. The fields are lean and dry, giving the wine an intense bouquet with a distance scent of bitter almonds. "Campolieti" is made from a traditional blend of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella grapes, which are carefully picked during the harvest in October and undergo the most modern processes for winemaking. Once the wine is re-fermented on the lees of Amarone, it is aged in oak barrels for one year. The result is a full-bodied, velvety and harmonious wine.

In addition to its excellent Valpolicella and Amarone, Righetti also produces an outstanding Soave Classico called "Campochiaro" and a unique Corvina, Cabernet Sauvignon Sangiovese blend named "Valsoia".

Tasting Notes: Sporting an uncommon robe of deep ruby with purple highlights, the 1997 Luigi Righetti "Campolieti" Valpolicella Classico Superiore is a tour de force in winemaking for this pretty DOC. This wine combines the aromas of violet, black cherry and herb with woodland scents all of which carry through on the wine's palate, adding the power and weight of a good Bordeaux to this delicious Valpolicella. Surprisingly flavorful, deep and round, this wine reflects the gustatory pleasure wrought by the highly touted "Ripasso" method, whereby this young, fresh, single vineyard Valpolicella undergoes malolactic fermentation inside casks containing the lees of Amarone. Yum! And waiting for you in the finish of this ample, yet elegant wine, is the telltale hint of bitter almond, which characterizes all genuine Valpolicella. Enjoy!

Accompaniments: An antipasto consisting of fried olives, stuffed mushrooms, and calamari recently made for a hearty, flavorful accompaniment to the 1997 Righetti Valpolicella. Veal Piccata and a savory veal stew are other winning combinations worthy of this Veronese beauty. Gnocchi, in either a marinara or Bolognese sauce is another fine choice with this full-character red. The atypical weight and depth of flavor of the Righetti, along with the quality of the vintage (1997 is one of the finest vintages ever in northern Italy), provide a wide range of food choices and preparations for the single vineyard Campolieti. The array of pungent, hard cheeses for which Italy is renowned also make for a terrific way to consume a bottle of this Valpolicella.

Domaine Sarda-Malet Cotes du Roussillon Blanc 1999 - France

If Roussillon had a classification for the top domains there is no doubt that Domaine Sarda Malet would be a Grand Cru. The 48 hecta-acres of vineyards are situated on rolling slopes just to the south of the city of Perpignan. Planted with 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre and 10% Carignan for the reds and with Roussanne, Marsanne, Malvasia and Viognier for the whites on south, southwest orientated slopes, conditions are ideal for the production of a range of outstanding table wines and the famous Rivesaltes dessert wines.

In 1982, the estate was replanted by Max and Suzy Malet. Today, the management of the domaine is in the capable hands of their son Jerome. Much has been done to achieve optimum quality. Harvesting continues by hand and after careful vinification, ageing takes place in new or reconditioned oak casks from the Troncais and Allier forests of France.

Sarda Malet produces a variety of excellent red and white wines, which demonstrate the enormous potential for the Roussillon to produce world class wines. The estate's table wines include small quantities of Reserve and single vineyard offerings, as well as the excellent Cotes du Roussillon white and red for which this property is best known. Outstanding, exotic dessert wines are also made at the estate. Sarda Malet wines repeatedly receive awards of excellence and merit.

Tasting Notes: Initially, the 1999 Sarda Malet Blanc appeared muted and stoic in the glass, numbed by an hour too long in an ice-cold refrigerator. Like most of the better whites from the south of France, this Cotes de Roussillon needs a less frigid ambient temperature and a few minutes in the glass to reveal its seductive charms, but by then you'll be wondering why you didn't think to open a second bottle. The scent of spring orchards in bloom, lemon oil and just a hint of "exotica" rise from the glass. Medium-bodied but full-flavored in the mouth, the Sarda Malet reveals an additional layer and nuance of flavor with each sip. The finish is a delightful combination of mineral and citrus fruits. Serve only moderately chilled, about 55 degrees.

Accompaniments: Caesar Salad, Salade Nicoise, and just about any Mediterranean style salad are wonderful accompaniments to the 1999 Sarda Malet Blanc. Deviled eggs and spicy fish soups and casseroles are delightful, too. Shrimp and vegetable stir-fry's are also winning combinations with this lovely Cotes du Roussillon. Many complex, moderately spiced dishes that are difficult to pair with more traditional varietals provide perfect foils to the Sarda Malet Blanc. Enjoy!

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