Vol. 4 No. 10
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
1998 Domaine Martin Cotes-du-Rhone
1999 Lawson’s Dry Hills Marlborough Chardonnay
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
1998 Chateau des Annereaux Lalande de Pomeral
White Wines Only Featured Selections
2000 Cantine Aurora Tortona Piemonte Moscato
Domaine Martin Cotes-du-Rhone 1998 - France
Domaine Martin is situated between the two ancient cities of Orange and Vaison-La Romaine in the prettiest part of Provence, the Vaucluse. The domaine’s vineyards are primarily in the village of Travaillan, the remainder in nearby Rasteau, in an area known as La Plan de Dieu (God’s special country, if you would).
Yves Martin is the latest guardian of this estate, which was founded officially by his grandfather at the turn of the last century. (However, the Martins have been vineyard owners and grape growers since the time of the French Revolution). Together with his brother Rene, the winemaker, the Martins cultivate well over 100 acres of old vines, averaging nearly 80 years of age, in and around the estate’s cellar. Here they produce an excellent, full-flavored red Cotes-du-Rhone from low yielding vines. The estate also turns out smaller quantities of white and rose wine, along with a tiny amount of Vin Doux Naturel Rasteau, a delicious late harvest dessert wine. Yet, it is the red Cote-du-Rhone that reigns supreme at this domaine. Domaine Martin’s 1998 red Cotes-du-Rhone won another gold medal at the prestigious Paris Concours General Agricole, reflecting the individual, quality conscious approach the Martins take at their estate. This broad shouldered, hedonistic wine is a delightful blend of traditional Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre, all from old vines.
In addition to working with his brother Rene and nephew Eric at Domaine Martin, Yves, like his father, Jules before him is Mayor of Travaillan. Yves is also the President of the local syndicate of grape growers in Travaillan-Camaret, underscoring his leadership and stalwart devotion to quality grape growing in the Vaucluse.
Tasting Notes: A port-like nose underscores the ripeness and weight inherent in the 1998 Domaine Martin Cotes-du-Rhone. Plum, anise, black fruits and the peppery scents of Grenache dominate the aroma and flavor of this plush Cotes-du-Rhone. Rich in fruit, lush and hedonistic, this wine is ample proof that the Rhone Valley of France continues to turn out some of the world’s most pleasurable, user-friendly wines. A gold medal winner at the prestigious Paris Concours General Agricole, the 1998 Domaine Martin is easy to like. And, although ripe, round and easy to drink from the time its opened, the Domaine Martin benefits immensely from an hour’s breathing time; it develops richness, definition and subtle nuances of flavor that make the little extra effort well worthwhile. Enjoy this wine at cellar temperature (58°-68°F).
Accompaniments: A versatile, easy to drink wine, the 1998 Domaine Martin Cotes-du-Rhone is equally adaptable to burgers on the grill as it is to grilled loin lamb chops, or even more elaborate fare. A Mediterranean Salad consisting of either feta or mozzarella cheese, calamata olives, basil, fresh blood red tomatoes, cucumber, mixed greens and a light anchovy paste also makes for a wonderful accompaniment to a cool bottle of the Domaine Martin. (Rhone wines, even reds, should never be served more than 68°F). A fried walnut encrusted goat cheese on mixed greens in a light raspberry vinaigrette constitutes another tasty treat with this wine, as does a simple roast chicken basted with butter, olive oil and Provencal herbs. The only caveat we would suggest is that you save very rare cuts of meat or heavily garlicked or spiced dishes for more tannic fare; the 1998 Domaine Martin is too pretty and far too laid back for “blood and guts”. In fact, we even love this wine all by itself, especially after an hour in a decanter, and there are not too many young reds we can say that about. Enjoy!
France: The Affordable Pleasures
France is a treasure trove of fine wine at affordable prices. “How can this be?” you ask…”with many Bordeaux, Burgundies and Champagnes selling at all time highs?” But it’s true. Aside from a couple of hundred well known brands and top chateaux from the most renowned appellations, the rest of France constitutes a versatile bargain…ripe for picking. Even in well known appellations, there are bargains galore, rising stars, and a bevy of young talented upstarts eager to make a name for themselves, all selling fine wine at modest prices. What you need is the willingness to depart from the time worn and often overpriced “top” forty in any given locale, and the world of fine French wine awaits your beg and call, and at prices you can afford.
For the past decade or more, France has been in the midst of a fine wine renaissance, transforming its wine industry from top to bottom. Driven by a new generation of young, quality -minded winegrowers, superb terroir, modern technology and a concentrated government effort that encourages the quality rather than the quantity of production, nearly all of the viticultural areas of France are producing better wines now than ever before. Twenty years ago, who had ever heard of a Viognier, a Gigondas, a Vacqueyras or better still a Rasteau, let alone ever had the opportunity to drink such a wine? And just a few years ago, while America and the rest of the collectors and speculators in the wine importing world were fixated on the Top 100 French Chateaux, the other thousands of growers and producers were virtually ignored, despite undeniable evidence that many of these bona fide estates were making better wines than the so-called, self aggradising Top 100. While many of the more expensive names were content to live off their reputations, many lesser known producers were busy replanting vineyards, refurbishing their facilities and building reputations for quality, at a fraction of the cost of the big name guys just down the road. So don’t be put off by unfamiliar name or an odd sounding appellation (place name of origin); France is ripe with affordable pleasures.
And let us not forget that France is the home to nearly all of the great international varietals, red and white, which means that strange sounding appellation may just produce some of the world’s best Syrah or Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Merlot, and they probably do. And, we haven’t even mentioned Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc or Grenache, etc., etc. as the list goes on. So be open and daring, taste and compare, and see that at the moment France is the affordable pleasure. May the dollar remain strong, amen.
Recipe for Red Wine:
Orzo Mediterranean
1 lb. orzo pasta
½ lb. Greek olives – pitted and chopped
2-3 roasted red peppers – chopped
¼ cup feta cheese
5 –8 artichoke hearts - chopped
Fresh parsley
1 lb. cherry tomatoes
1 cup – your favorite vinaigrette
Cook orzo in large pot of boiling water for 7-11 minutes. Drain and return to a large bowl. Do not rinse pasta. Mix in peppers, tomatoes, olives, parsley, artichokes and ½ cup of the vinaigrette.Mix well and refrigerate 2-4 hours.
Remove and stir in remaining ½ cup of vinaigrette until very well mixed. Top with feta cheese. Makes a great main course with good French bread!
Lawson’s Dry Hills Marlborough Chardonnay 1999 - New Zealand
Presently, no white wine producing viticultural region or country produces consistently the quality and value inherent in the white wines of New Zealand, particularly those from the Marlborough appellation. Nearly every Marlborough estate that exports to the United States turns out admirable examples of Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, but few can compete with the outstanding selections from Lawson’s Dry Hills.
After tasting through Lawson’s Dry Hills portfolio of fine white wines, we are simply hard pressed to find better quality and value, anywhere. Consequently, we are pleased to offer The International Wine of the Month Club subscribers the opportunity to acquaint or re-acquaint themselves as the case may be with one of the finest estates and most astute young winemakers in New Zealand.
Lawson’s Dry Hills was founded in 1992 by longtime grape growers, Ross and Barbara Lawson when they decided to open a state of the art winery on their property in Marlborough. Committed solely to the production of premium Marlborough wines, the Lawson’s have quickly established themselves as serious producers of world class wines. In only nine years of production, Lawson’s Dry Hills has compiled an enviable record of awards and medals with its wines, winning gold medals in major national and international wine shows and competitions. Devoted to traditional cool climate varietals; Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and most recently Pinot Noir, German trained winemaker, Mike Just, has catapulted this estate to the top echelon of wineries in a very competitive, quality driven appellation.
Wine critics already compare Lawson’s Dry Hills to Zind Humbrecht, France’s greatest producer of Alsace wines. Like Zind Humbrecht, Lawson’s has built its reputation on the production of a half dozen great white wine varietals, excelling equally with each in turn.
What makes Mike Just so good is a combination of training, intuition, experience and “terroir” (Marlborough is simply one of the world’s best viticultural regions for white wines.) Yet, Mike is not content to be simply good, he is an expert blender and an ardent proponent of experimentation. In fact, Mike is considered to be one of the world’s most artful blenders, selecting one varietal from different vineyard sites with varying characteristics in order to add complexity and depth to each of his varietal offerings. Mike also employs a high percentage of wild yeasts in his wines and a partial oak barrel fermentation, especially for his Chardonnay. Each of these practices adds nuance and complexity to the finished product, accentuating rather than compromising the wine’s natural flavors.
Just learned his craft in Germany where he spent several years working in a number of wineries, both large and small. There he picked up the skill as well as the feel for producing world class white wines in a cool climate. With centuries of experimentation and tradition, Germany afforded Mike the perfect perspective and background to pursue greatness in New Zealand. We look forward to many more great wines from Lawson’s Dry Hills under Mike’s tutelage. The only problem we foresee with Lawson’s will be finding enough of their wines; Lawson’s estate wine is already strictly allocated, so drink up while you may!
Tasting Notes: Lush! Lush! Lush! The 1999 Lawson’s Dry Hills Marlborough Chardonnay is about as hedonistic as dry white wine gets. Loaded with the scents of pineapple, mango and assorted tropical fruits, this wine is a feast for the senses. In the mouth, this delicious Chardonnay is so fat and long that it drips with butter, ripe exotic fruit, and a lovely cachet of spice that adds complexity and depth to its buxom beauty. And if all the essence of Chardonnay and the overt decadence of pure ripe fruit in French oak aren’t satisfying enough, the Lawson’s Dry Hills possesses good, crisp acidity along with its ample fruit; the acidity beautifully frames the wine, adding definition, a pleasantly dry finish, and plenty of zip. If there had been wine in the Garden of Eden, we’re sure it would have tasted a lot like the 1999 Lawson’s Dry Hills Chardonnay. Enjoy this pleasure packed Chardonnay moderately chilled and often.
Accompaniments: “Heck, who needs food - this wine’s a meal in itself,” commented one taster, rather aptly, summing up the bottom line. Certainly, the 1999 Lawson’s Dry Hills Chardonnay doesn’t need food, but then again there is a vast gap in our culture between need and desire. So, we chose to indulge ourselves. Carmelized Sea Scallops over Angel Hair Leek Pasta, served with a tropical fruit – vanilla reduction was enough to convince us that need is definitely not everything. Roasted Halibut with an artichoke caper relish is another fine dish with the Lawson’s Chardonnay, and more ample evidence that need is a lot less exciting than desire. Even simply prepared, flavorful seafood; poached salmon, steamed lobster or boiled crab legs accentuate the hedonistic pleasure of the 1999 Lawson’s Dry Hills Chardonnay, so why not indulge yourselves, and enjoy!
Recipe for White Wine:
Carmelized Sea Scallops
1 lb. sea scallops – cleaned
¼ cup butter
3 Tbl. olive oil
1 shallot
1 cup white wine
2 Tbl. fresh parsley - chopped
fresh ground pepper
finely chopped lemon or lime
Heat butter and olive oil in pan until butter is melted. Add shallot and sauté until limp. Add white wine, pepper and juice of lemon or lime. Cook until wine is reduced to ½ the liquid. Turn heat to high and add parsley and scallops. Sauté quickly while shaking the pan back and forth for about 5 minutes or until scallops are done. Serve immediately.
Chateau des Annereaux Lalande de Pomeral 1998 - France
Chateau de Annereaux is presently owned by the Milhades, a Bordelais family known for their uncompromising devotion to the production of fine wine and unwavering commitment to the viticultural restoration of historical Bordeaux estates. Critics consider Chateau des Annereaux to be this family’s crowning achievement. No time in its more than five centuries of continuous production has Chateau des Annereaux produced better wine than it does today, prompting Decanter to call this property, “an essential discovery for any claret lover”.
Situated on the plateau near Lalande in the heart of the appellation, Chateau des Annereaux produces one of the region’s largest lived wines. Here, the gravel and clay soils favor Merlot, and the 55 acre vineyard is planted primarily to that variety, with the balance consisting of lush, fragrant Cabernet Franc. Vinification is totally traditional, beginning with hand-harvesting and a long maceration (time the fermenting must spends on the skins). Elevage or ageing takes place in small barrels, about 35-50% of which are new each year. The resulting wine is invariably rich and full, and long lasting, developing a creamy richness with bottle age.
Tasting Notes: Plush, opulent and delicious, the 1998 Chateau des Annereaux has been dubbed “the most elegant wine of the year,” by several members of the tasting panel and “the quintessential dinner party wine” by others. Supple, fruity and easy to drink, it would be easy to dismiss this wine as a lovely, round claret for early consumption. However, as a result of centuries of cultivation at the same site, the presence of natural wild yeasts on the grapes add elegance as well as complexity to des Annereaux. Nuances of spice, leather, and chocolate combine with lush fruit and silky tannins to provide depth and layers of flavor in the wine. Ample airing and further bottle age enhance the wine’s long, lingering finish. A votre sante!
Accompaniments: An elegant dinner party provides the ultimate setting for the 1998 Chateau des Annereaux. Roast chicken, quail or squab would be perfect pairings with this delicious Bordeaux as would more traditional fare, like a crown roast of pork, beef tenderloin or loin lamb chops. But then again, this Chateau des Annereaux needs very little to show it off. A plate of ripe, soft cheeses (check out http://www.cheesemonthclub.com/ for exquisite suggestions), will also do this fine Bordeaux justice. Whatever you decide, open the des Annereaux an hour before serving, and pour it preferably into a decanter, and enjoy!
Cantine Aurora Tortona Piemonte Moscato 2000 - Italy
The Cantine Aurora is part of the great Volpi estate of Piemonte, which was founded by Christina Cairo Volpi around 1900. Long known as restaurateurs, the Volpi’s continue their passion for fine food and wine at Cantine Aurora and two outstanding restaurants: Trattoria del Cappel Verde and Bar Venezia. Today, cousins Bruno and Carlo Volpi run the winery, while the rest of the family tends to the kitchen.
The Volpi’s produce an assortment of famous Piedmontese wines, including Barolo and Barbaresco, but they are best known for their consistently excellent Barbera, Cortese and Moscato from the Tortona Hills near Asti. The greatest of the native white grapes of northern Italy, the Moscato vine produces a particularly fragrant, delicate wine in Tortona where it has grown for over 1000 years. The product of a single fermentation process, the Volpi Moscato is a refreshing wine made with adherence to the region’s proud Moscato tradition; the estate uses filtration, centrifugation and cold stabilization to produce it’s Moscato, rather than an abundance of harsh chemicals.
Tasting Notes: Lush, succulent and pleasantly sweet, but not cloying, the 2000 Cantine Aurora Tortona Piemonte Moscato embodies all that nature in its infinite fecundity can provide. Capturing the essence of a Bacchanalian harvest: the ripe sensuality of fruit hanging on the vine, the golden rays of an autumnal sun, and the freshness of an October breeze, this Moscato begs to be savored, yet pleads to be guzzled. Low in alcohol (only 5.5%, but long on flavor, the Piedmontese delight is both refreshing and satisfying. Made in the traditional Piedmontese manner, the wine is lightly golden and slightly frizzante or very lightly sparkling. Enjoy this traditional Piedmontese treasure fairly well chilled.
Accompaniments: Either as an aperitif or after dinner cordial, the Cantine Aurora Moscato is both refreshing and enjoyable all on its own. Yet, our favorite accompaniments are rich pates when served as a prelude to dinner or fresh fruit tarts or better still, poached pears or peaches in savory sauces as dessert. Very fine dark chocolate also provides an excellent pairing, if you can stand the sensory overload. Moscato is a sensual, romantic wine making it a fine choice for an intimate evening. In addition, the 2000 Tortona Moscato has been called the perfect wine for those who think they don’t like wine, but we find its appeal is far more universal. Several tasters on our panel plan to serve it as one of their Thanksgiving Dinner offerings, given the wine’s wide appeal with the variety of savory foods and fruit based dishes, traditionally served at our nations annual feast! Enjoy!
Wine Facts and Other Tantalizing Morsels
Did You Know:
New Zealand ranks 33rd in the world in total production of wine, although nearly all output is devoted to premium estate bottled wines. Italy remains the world’s largest producer of wines, though only a fraction of this viticultural power house’s wines are estate bottled. California would be the world’s fourth largest producer of wine, if it were a separate country. Nevertheless, the US remains the world’s fourth largest producer of wine as California represents more than 90% of the nation’s annual wine production: more than 540 million gallons in 1998. Moderate wine consumption is one of the most healthful dietary practices for most adults – so enjoy!
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