Vol. 3 No. 6
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Argiolas Costera 1996 Greece
Argiolas Vermentino 1998 Greece
Red Wines Only Featured Selections
Jacky Janodet Moulin a Vent 1998 France
White Wines Only Featured Selections
Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewurztraminer 1999 New Zealand
Argiolas
Excellence and Inspiration from a Land That Time Nearly Forgot and the Wine Public had all but Forsaken
Leaving the Sardinian capitol, Cagliari, Highway 387 carries the traveler into the wild Mediterranean hinterland along a picturesque route. One travels about 20 kilometers until the road reaches the territory of Serdiana (the ancient name was probably Xerdiavi, meaning an area rich in cedars, the essence of which perfumed the religious rites of the Greek monks who helped colonize Sardinia). Here the excellent climatic conditions, the richness of the soil and the abundant water supply has made this region exceptionally suitable for human habitation, as well as the cultivation of the vine since prehistoric times.
Just three kilometers southwest of the village of Serdiana, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, one comes upon the ancient church of Santa Maria de Sibiola, constructed in the first half of the XII century by the Victorine Monks of Marseilles. This was already a very prosperous agricultural center in the XII century under the active guidance of Benedictine monks. Although no longer a religious holding, the locals still commemorate their heritage with a religious celebration every September 8th. It is here that Argiolas was founded some sixty years ago by Antonio Argiolas.
Antonio Argiolas dedicated the remainder of his life to restoring this beautiful country to the cultivation of the vine and the tending of olive groves. Much of this land lay fallow for years since its 12th century zenith, until Argiolas reclaimed it. It is in Serdiana that he planted his first plot of land, "Su Paulli Mannu", as a vineyard and olive grove, and it is in the tradition of pioneering monks that Antonio Argiolas gave his life to his passion. He devoted his life to the ancient traditions of Mediterranean civilization: the cultivation of the vine and the tending of olives, endeavors praised by the venerable Plinius, Columella and Horace, as well as the Benedictine monks. From the very first planting, the Argiolas vineyards have been virtual gardens, prime examples of professional expertise in the culture and nurture of the vine, with the exclusive aim of guaranteeing the quality of their product. In addition to the ancient practices of their ancestors, the Argiolas winery has added the latest modern equipment for winemaking, storage and maturing wine in oak barrels. Under the guidance of Antonio’s two equally passionate and dedicated sons, Franco and Guiseppe, the Argiolas winery is a showpiece and inspiration in a land that time nearly forgot, and the wine public has all but forsaken.
Argiolas Vermentino 1998 Tasting Notes: Scents of the awakening land; spring flowers and the good earth, dew glistening meadows, infused with the waft of wild flowers and a taste of honey, greet the imbiber. Smooth, very easy to drink flavors are dominated by the savor of eternal spring. Whether you refer to this wine as ethereal, or simply a wine that possesses a certain "je ne sais quoi", as the French like to say, it has a tendency to disappear in a hurry. Hints of citrus, mainly lime and tangerine, complement the softer tones in the wine and provide structure, so that this lovely Vermentino finishes crisp and dry. The Argiolas family has, without a doubt, produced a most refreshing and interesting glass of wine from one of the world’s least known premium white varietals. In the hands of the Argiolas family, Vermentino is a veritable jewel. Referred to as Rolle in the south of France, Vermentino deserves to be better known in the United States. Perhaps, its time has finally come? Given the superior quantity, it is no wonder critics point to the Argiolas Vermentino as the benchmark by which all other Vermentinos in Sardinia are measured.
Accompaniments: Light, heart healthy fare strikes us as the natural choice for the 1998 Argiolas Vermentino. Crostini, hors d’oeuvres, salads, seafood and chicken all make solid choices to accompany this harmonious Vermentino. Yet, we implore you to be a bit more daring. Certainly, one of our very favorite dishes with the Argiolas Vermentino is an authentic Salade Nicoise, the quintessential Mediterranean salad, the regional "surf & turf". A combination of tasty greens, potatoes, black olives, hard-boiled eggs and fresh tuna bring out all the flavor in the wine, Bouillabaisse, Cioppino, and other lively fish soups and stews also provide marvelous complements to this versatile Vermentino. With such spicy fare, one would expect that the wine would be totally overwhelmed, when in fact the fresh, tangy qualities of Vermentino refresh the palate and enliven the savory components of the dish. In Italy, this seems to be the preferred modus operandi, but whether you prefer a complement or contrast with your meal, we believe you will enjoy this wine as much as we do.
Argiolas Costera 1996 Tasting Notes: "Wow! I love this wine...where did we get it," were the first words uttered by a senior member of our tasting panel, sentiments the rest of the group was too captivated to sputter. It’s no wonder, from the very first draught of the 1996 Argiolas Costera, we were hooked. The captivating scent of violets and roses, fragrant woodlands and berries caress the nose. It’s almost impossible to draw your face away from the glass to sip this wine but you’ll be glad that you did. Kirsch, black cherry, truffle and berry stroke the palate, all with the final soft touch of velvet in the finish. Neither hardness nor "edge" mar this lush, spicy, delectable wine. It is ripe and jammy, and loaded with mouth-filling flavors, without the flabbiness of other less interesting Mediterranean wines. The Argiolas Costera is made from 100% Cannonau and is testimony to the quality of wine produced from this varietal. Drink this wonderful Sardinian beauty over the next year or two. Allow at least 30 minutes open before serving.
Accompaniments: Poultry, grilled meats, sausages and a myriad of Mediterranean dishes all offer first rate pairings with the 1996 Argiolas Costera. We have especially enjoyed the long, lush flavors of this wine with a chicken risotto all balsamico. The marriage brings out the strength and character of both the food and the wine, without sacrificing the subtle, savory tones of either. Another particularly enjoyable match is the Argiolas Costera with a rich lamb barley soup, served with fresh, crusty bread and a plate of regional Italian cheeses. In another vein, several panel members recommend trying this wine with fresh pasta dishes with rich, tomato-based sauces. Neither the spices nor the natural acidity of the tomato sauce clash with the wine. A simple roast leg of lamb, rubbed with garlic, olive oil and fresh rosemary provides another top-notch accompaniment to the Costera. Roasted eggplant and spicy bean dishes also make for pleasant company when brought to a table set with Costera.
Jacky Janodet Moulin a Vent 1998
Jacky Janodet is a small producer of first class Grand Cru Beaujolais. In this venerable region, Janodet’s 17.2 acres of vineyards with their high percentage of old vines are considered to be among the very best. They yield wines which are incredibly rich and powerful for Beaujolais, often requiring a few years in bottle to come full circle. From his Domaine Les Fines Graves, Janodet produces two superb Grand Cru Beaujolais: Moulin a Vent and Chenas. Both wines are the product of only estate grown grapes and are bottled at the domaine.
The product of a unique granite soil and the Gamay varietal, Beaujolais is unique among the world’s wines. Unfortunately, most consumers’ acquaintance with Beaujolais comes from the oceans of Beaujolais Nouveau that wash ashore each November, just in time for Thanksgiving.
It’s hard to know who is more thankful, the French growers for having turned a quick profit, or the American consumers who have selected a good wine for one of the year’s most important holidays. In any event, there is much more to Beaujolais than Nouveau, namely the fine Grand Cru Beaujolais that rank among Burgundy’s most enjoyable wines.
Tasting Notes: In typical Moulin a Vent fashion, the 1998 Janodet is rich, concentrated and brooding, requiring some coaxing before the lush, velvet tones emerge with breathing. We suggest that you allow the wine to breathe for at least a half hour before serving, in order to fully enjoy the deep cherry and kirsch flavors of this big-boned Beaujolais.
Considered to be the top Grand Cru of Beaujolais, Moulin a Vent ages well, and this Janodet is no exception. Another year or two in bottle would only serve to heighten your pleasure! Serve this wine cool but not chilled.
Accompaniments: Savory chicken or beef dishes make fine complements to Grand Cru Beaujolais. Roast pork and baked ham also provide nice pairings, but ultimately we suggest a plate of soft, creamy cheeses consisting of Port Salut, Fontina, Gouda or Muenster with the Janodet Moulin a Vent. Salut!
Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewurztraminer 1999
Lawson’s Dry Hills is a state of the art winery in New Zealand’s leading appellation, Marlborough. Longtime grape growers, Ross and Barbara Lawson, founded Lawson’s Dry Hills in 1992, and they remain committed to producing only premium Marlborough wines.
Within just seven years of production, this winery is credited with an enviable record having won gold medals in major wine shows and competitions for all of its wines. German winemaker, Mike Just, is devoted to traditional cool climate varietals: Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir… and he has put New Zealand’s finest fruit and Lawson’s Dry Hills on the world’s wine map.
Already Lawson’s Dry Hills is being compared to the legendary Zind Humbrecht, France’s greatest producer of Alsace wine. One can find Lawson’s Dry Hills wines in a number of France’s finest restaurants… no mean feat for a New Zealand winery.
The only drawback to this estate is the limited availability of its wonderful wines.
Tasting Notes: If you’re looking for a light, wispy wine, you should bypass the 1999 Gewurztraminer. In the style of great Alsatian examples of this varietal, Lawson’s Dry Hills offers up a cachet of scents and flavors reminiscent of the lychee, rose petal and, of course, spice. (Gewurztraminer means spicy traminer in German.)
Mouth filling, and viscous without residual sugar, Mike Just’s ‘99 Gewurztraminer captures the essence of this varietal. This is a superb, tour de force for the winery, as well as the entire New Zealand wine industry. Again, our only regret is that there is so little of this wine to go around.
Accompaniments: We suggest that you pair foie gras with this flamboyant dandy, it makes for a splendid starter. You’ll get rave revues when you serve Gewurztraminer 1999, with pork or ham in savory, fruit-based sauces. And this is the perfect wine for often hard to match, spicy foods, as well as Asian cuisine.
Those of you who are true enthusiasts will enjoy this brilliant creation all by itself… Gewurztraminer 1999 is a fine wine that can proudly stand alone.
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