Vol. 3 No. 1
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
1996 Chateau Lagrezette - France
1997 Bott Geyl Pinot d'Alsace - Italy
The Vineyard at Chateau Lagrezette
The vineyard at Lagrezette spreads over nearly 121 acres. It is planted with the three noble varieties allowed under the Appellation Controlee for Cahors. The traditional Auxerrois, or Cot, or Malbec as it is more often called today, comprises 70% of the vineyard. This noble and historic variety gives Cahors its "black" color and its individual character, specifically its tannin and longevity. Merlot (26% of the land) furnishes fruit, smoothness, tenderness and elegance to the wine, while the remaining 4% of the vineyard is planted in Tannat, another traditional grape that offers strength and vigor to the cepage. All three grape varieties are grown on a wide variety of soils, ranging from a stony, clay and limestone geologic type to pebbles, sand and silt. Each soil type adds its own attributes and character to the wine, the same way that individual grape varieties leave their imprint in the scents and savor of a wine. Undoubtedly, the use of all three grape varieties and soil types adds complexity to the wines of Chateau Lagrezette.
The Wines of Chateau Lagrezette
Chateau Lagrezette produces three types of wine at the estate: Cuvee Prestige Dame Honneur (a wine produced only in very small quantities and in certain vintages), Chateau Lagrezette (the domaine's premium production each vintage), and Chevaliers Lagrezette, (a light, earlier maturing wine made from young vines). All three of the domaine's wines are red and they are of course estate bottled.
Each of the winemaking steps at Lagrezette is accomplished in a three level state of the art facility beneath the hill on which Chateau Lagrezette stands. Here, wine is made with respect for time honored traditions. All of the grapes are hand picked, never mechanically harvested, and each bunch is manually sorted before being destemmed and crushed. Technology is used only to assist the winemaking team which includes the famous Bordeaux oenologist, Michel Rolland, in making the most healthy and natural Cahors possible.
Chateau Lagrezette always receives a very long maceration, or vatting time, lasting an average of three weeks. During this process the skins of the grapes are pumped over the juice to garner a deep color and robust flavor so that the resulting wine will have the necessary resources to age gracefully - in typical Cahors fashion. After fermentation is complete, the wine matures in new oak barrels located in the lowest, coolest level of the winery for twelve to twenty-four months, depending upon the vintage.
In addition to the three estate grown wines produced at Lagrezette, the domaine also makes Moulin Lagrezette, an excellent value, light, everyday Cahors, that comes from vineyards located by the river Lot. A Votre Sante!
Tasting Notes: A deep, dark brooding wine, as the Cahors sobriquet implies, the 1996 Chateau Lagrezette is thankfully far less foreboding in its aromatic profile, where spicy berry scents, mingled with the aroma of anise and new oak, beguile the nose. In flavor, rich red fruits in a velvety format caress the tongue, followed by the ripe, healthy tannins of an age-worthy Cahors.
Voluptuous, yet well structured, this Chateau Lagrezette will benefit from several more years of cellar ageing, or an hour or two in a decanter, before serving. It is obvious that the use of new oak barrels, as well as the careful sorting and destemming practiced by the domaine, has successfully resurrected the grandeur and promise of the Cahors appellation. Kudos to Alain-Dominique Perrin for sparing no expense in bringing this traditional Cahors and the region's most historic estate back to life. In the monotonous age of standardization, it is refreshing to see and taste a wine as unique and intriguing as the Chateau Lagrezette Cahors.
Accompaniments: "Where's the meat? Bring on the steak, pile up the cheese, the Chateau Lagrezette is a wine for fat." Made in the style of yesteryear, before all the talk of cholesterol and the homogenization of wine, the Chateau Lagrezette seems designed to keep the arteries open. It has no problem cutting through fat to complement the richest of foods. We suggest serving this "baby" with prime rib or a truffle infused beef tenderloin. Beef Wellington also makes for an outstanding accompaniment to this fine Cahors. Alas, some of our English brethren even attest to the virtues of Chateau Lagrezette with their traditional Christmas goose complete with all the drippings and trimmings. But no matter what your fancy, open the wine at least an hour or more before serving and decant it. Prolonged breathing time will bring out the rich fruit and subtle tones in the center of the wine as it tames the wine's tannins.
Domaine Bott-Geyl:
A Renowned Estate with a New Direction
Domaine Bott Geyl is a renowned Alsace estate that was founded in 1840. It grows all of the best traditional white grape varietals of Alsace: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Auxerrois, Tokay Pinot Gris, Muscat, Riesling and Gewurtztraminer. Concentrating on fruit-driven, user friendly wines with great appeal, the estate's current scion, Jean-Christophe Bott, farms his vineyards using natural methods that he describes as "nearly organic". He hand picks his fruit late in the harvest to ensure physiological ripeness and Bott is not afraid to prune away excessive yields, and profits, in order to produce purer, richer wines than most of his compatriots. How we wish more growers and wineries in Alsace, and elsewhere, would practice the dying art of "epluchage", or pruning; they would make more concentrated and enjoyable wines and stress their vines less, resulting in a decreased dependency on chemical and technological intervention during winemaking.
From ten hectares (22 acres) of vineyards from various sites, Jean-Christophe cultivates all of the major Alsace grapes. Consisting of hillside vineyards, as well as few, choice low-lying parcels, his vineyards express the care and the unique "terroir" of each individual site. Ranging from the valley floor to over 1100 feet in elevation, Bott Geyl Vineyards consist of many different soil compositions: marl, chalk, pebble, gypsum and heavy stones - all ideal for the multitude of grape varietals produced by this first rate estate. Each vineyard site grows the varietal most aptly suited to its soil. In addition, each plot offers excellent drainage, an important factor in producing healthy vines and concentrated, flavorful wines. The average age of Bott Geyl's vines is a respectable 30 years.
The harvest at Bott Geyl begins with the time-honored tradition of hand picking, followed by a careful sorting and selection of the grapes from Champagne collection cases. From their fine baskets, the grapes are pressed whole which allows some skin contact and helps develop a broad range of aromas. "As the pressing is the most important step for the winemaker in the vinification process, it cannot be done hastily," says Jean-Christophe Bott, "or the entire harvest will be ruined," he adds. At Bott Geyl the pressing is done slowly and carefully. There is no inoculation (killing of the natural yeasts with sulfites or other antiseptics prior to fermentation, in order to introduce artificial strains of yeasts) practiced at Bott Geyl. All of the estate's wine are produced using the natural indigenous yeasts from the vineyards. It is this practice that Bott and many others contend is responsible for the purity and individual personality that is so apparent in this estate's wine.
Espousing the philosophy and practice of prolonged fermentation, Bott's wines do not normally complete fermentation for 2-6 months. After fermentation, the wines are racked, but they remain on their lees (skins) for an additional 4-6 months, or longer, to extract flavor. Subsequently, the entire production of Bott Geyl is then bottled by September following the harvest, no mean feat when one considers that there are at least 16 individual offerings every vintage from this estate. Yet, the entire annual production is a mere 8000 cases. Indeed, good things and especially good wines, come in small handcrafted quantities. Many thanks to Jean-Christophe Bott for the exciting direction he is steering this fine, family estate.
Tasting Notes: Produced from a cepage, or blend, of 40% Pinot Blanc, 40% Pinot Auxerrois and 20% Tokay Pinot Gris, that underwent malolactic fermentation, the 1997 Bott Geyl Pinot d'Alsace is a medium-bodied wine of broad, rich flavors and amplifying aromatics. Scents of melon, mango and rose petal give way to pure, rich fruit on the palate. Wild flowers and honeysuckle seem to spring from the glass, but ample body and structure prevent the wine from being flabby or sweet. A finish of orange peel and a slight spritz add freshness to a lightly smoky, racy finish. This is such a fun wine to sip or guzzle that we have had to "cut off" more than a few party types we've served it to. So soft and silky is the Bott Geyl Pinot d'Alsace that it goes down easy, real easy. For full enjoyment, serve the wine chilled, but decant it a few minutes before serving. Due to an extended stay on large lees and minimal filtration, the wine benefits both aesthetically and sensually from a little extra care. Then, boy does it go down easy. "A Votre Sante."
Accompaniments: "Anytime a party prevails or the spirit moves me" is one taster's contribution to accompaniments with the Bott Geyl Pinot d'Alsace. Traditional Alsatian fare certainly provide a more orthodox approach to this wine. Recently, we served the Bott Geyl Pinot d'Alsace with pork chops smothered in apple and fresh sauerkraut, much to the delight of the evening's coterie. Yet, we also like this wine with appetizers and refined pates. Another winning choice with this fine Pinot d'Alsace is lake fish. We can also recommend the Bott Geyl with a variety of marinades that call for fresh ginger. If used in moderation, the fresh ginger seems to marry with the slightly exotic flavors in the Pinot d'Alsace, without overpowering them. Lightly spiced Chinese dishes, such as fried dumplings and either chicken or pork Moo Shu make nice complements, too. This is a very versatile wine.
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