Vol. 2 No. 5

Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Casina di Cornia Chianti Classico - Italy
Fratelli Zenato Pinot Grigio - Italy

Casina di Cornia: "A Vision of Purity"

Antoine Luginbuhl arrived in Castellina in Chianti with his family in 1980, after choosing Casina di Cornia as the ideal place to live and work. His imagination had been fired by the thick walls of the houses built on the outlines of 12th century buildings and the continuous alternation of warm hills, verdant crops, and an untilled parcel of land along a white road leading up to a southwestern facing hillside. Thus began Antoine's rapport with the land that has led him to follow his vines step-by-step, avoiding any intrusive farming practice from the winter pruning to the summer yield-limiting treatments, right through to the small boxes used in the harvest to keep the bunches intact. After a strict screening of the best grapes to be used in producing age-worthy wine, Luginbuhl allows his wines to evolve in oak barrels, losing their early roughness as they begin their journey to a perfect balance.

Casina di Cornia: A Tuscan Treasure

After nearly twenty years, Casina di Cornia remains a small estate situated in the Chianti Classico region in the heart of the Tuscan hills. The vineyards, exposed to the southwest, are planted with the grape varieties of Chianti: Sangiovese and Canaiolo for the red wine and Trebbiano and Malvasia for the white. They also grow some Muscat and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Since 1980, the estate has been cultivated according to the methods of organic agriculture. They use only manure and compost as fertilizers, natural fungicides, and plant extracts as antiparasitics.

In order for the wine to maintain its genuine quality and bouquet, Casina di Cornia uses recent scientific knowledge in oenology as well as organic techniques to keep interventions on grapes and wine to a minimum. The estate also follows a severe pruning policy, which reduces the average yield to 45 hl to the hectare, far below most Chianti estates.

During harvest, in order to avoid bruising, the grapes are collected by hand in small boxes. Vinification monitoring is conducted with accurate control of temperature to avoid oxidation. Minimal sulphur dioxide is used during bottling under the prescribed rules of organic agriculture. All of Casina di Cornia's wines are estate grown and bottled. It's nice to know that such wines and places still exist; visions of purity and simplicity in a shiftless world.

Chianti Classico: A Region as well as a Wine

Chianti is a sea of vines amid the pastoral slopes of Tuscany. Between Florence and Siena over one hundred and fifty thousand acres of vines share the hills of this ancient land with olive groves and grain fields, bleating goats and sheep, and woods full of oak and chestnut. Chianti is the largest DOC district of Italy, producing more than two hundred million liters of wine from seven distinct districts. Chianti is, in fact, many different wines from over seven thousand registered growers in seven districts and their outlying areas. This is a land of contrast, a world in which tradition runs as deep as the roots of the vines on craggy slopes, and the adaptation of modern technology transform Italy's best known wine into one of the world's finest.

As far back as the 9th century B.C., the Etruscans were the first known inhabitants of Tuscany to cultivate the vine in Chianti. They were followed by the Romans who planted widely in the area, and the Church, whose stable influence in the early medieval period assured the continuation of vine cultivation and winemaking in Chianti. However, it wasn't until the 13th century that the much disputed wine-growing region between Florence and Siena became known as Chianti and the wines of that ancient hunting area began to be called by that name. At first, only the white wine of the district was called Chianti, but by the early 16th century the dry red wine of the area, also referred to as "Vermiglio," by Michelangelo and his Florentine contemporaries, had also adopted the name Chianti.

Today, Chianti is only a red wine. There is no legal provision for white Chianti, although a sizable portion of the district is devoted to the cultivation of white grapes, some of which find their way into the red wine. Chianti is not the product of a single grape variety. It is a blend of at least four, and sometimes five or more grapes, as prescribed by DOCG regulation. Two of the grapes, Trebbiano and Malvasia, are white.

In the 19th century, the powerful Baron Ricasoli, whose Brolio estate still produces wine, developed the working formula of grape proportions that is still roughly practiced in Chianti. Today, as prescribed by law, that formula consists of blending 75%-90% Sangiovese, the most renowned red grape of Tuscany, 5%-10% Canaiolo Nero and 2%-10% Trebbiano and Malvasia. In fact, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and even grapes from outside of Tuscany can be used in small proportions, up to 10%, to firm up Chianti. Due to the number and varying proportions of grapes prescribed for Chianti, as well as the differences in soil and micro-climate from vineyard to vineyard, , the Chianti vintner has real latitude in developing his own style of wine.

Chianti Classico: "Gallo Nero"

Although the Chianti Classico Consorzio is not the only consortium in Chianti, it is the most recognizable as a voluntary standard of excellence. The Chianti Classico Consorzio seeks to define, improve and promote the wines of Chianti Classico, the traditional heart of Chianti that is entitled to DOCG designation. More than 90% of the producers of Chianti Classico belong to the consorzio. Standards are strict; monitoring of prescribed grape varieties and vineyards, yields, alcohol levels, and even a tasting of every producer's wine are part of the annual ritual of enforcement. Today, it is rare for the wines that bear the seal of the Chianti Classico Consortium, a black rooster, or "gallo nero," on the neck of its bottle to be less than fine. This is particularly true of the "Riserva"designations, which are required to be aged for a minimum of three years, (two years in barrel and at least one year in bottle), before being released.

Accompaniments: In all its incarnations, Sangiovese makes a wine of rustic elegance, not wildly complex or deeply sophisticated, but straightforward and pleasantly lingering. It's not a wine for meat that's elaborately sauced or delicate, but goes well with roasted or grilled meats. Tuscans invented bruschetta, which they spread with chicken liver, and that's another perfect match, as is calf's liver and onions.

Zenato: Three Generations of Excellence

Fratelli Zenato is a third generation family-owned vineyard and winery. Located in the heart of the prized Lugana DOC district on the southern slopes of Lake Garda, this vineyard enjoys its own unique microclimate. Almost totally surrounded by mountains, the Zenato family vineyards are protected from cold Alpine winds, but they also benefit from the warm breeze of the Po Valley to the south. In addition, Lake Garda itself moderates temperatures and creates a soothing fog that shields young vines from the hard morning sun. Such is the favorable position of the Fratelli Zenato.

Under the watchful eye of Sergio Zenato, the estate's winemaker, not only is meticulous care given to the family vineyards, but a rigorous selection of grapes takes place prior to vinification. In recognition of his efforts, Zenato has received numerous awards and accolades for his wine and for his efforts to raise the quality of the entire Veneto.

Known for an exquisite Lugana, Pinot Grigio, and Valpolicella, Zenato also produces small quantities of local specialties Recioto and Amarone.

For his delicate, flavorful white wine, Zenato employs a prolonged, cool fermentation in stainless steel. Then he ages the whites in bottle before releasing them for sale. Such practices preserve the natural fresh fruit quality inherent in the estate's white wines. They also add both balance and harmony without the residual sugar or harsh acidity so typical of lesser producers of Lugana and Pinot Grigio. Zenato's red wines are handled in a more traditional vein, whereby fermentation occurs at higher temperatures to extract flavor and grip from the skins of the grape. In any event, the wines of this estate continue to go from one strength to the next.

Veneto: Where East Meets West

The Veneto, known for centuries as the "crossroads of Europe" is a captivating land that retains as much of the flavor of the ancient Levant as it does the lore and intrigue of the world's most famous lovers, Romeo and Juliet. With Venice as its anchor, Verona as its heart, and the Alps as its eye to the north, the Veneto is a strikingly diverse and prolific land. Both completely modern and thoroughly rustic, the Veneto leads the juggernaut of wine called Italy in the production and commerce of fine DOC wines. With its total annual production of wine approaching one billion liters, the Veneto basks in the glory of its reputation as both a showcase of modern wine technology and a bastion of sumptuous artisan wines.

Home to Shakespeare's Montagues and Capulets as well as the world's largest wine fair, Vinitaly, Verona is the undisputed capital of Italian wine. From the hills and plains that radiate from this immortal city flow copious quantities of familiar wines: Bardalino, Soave, Valpolicella and Amarone. In addition, just about every wine varietal known to man is represented among the quarter million acres of vines that grace the Veneto.

Although the Veneto's classic wines: Soave, the light, white from Garganega and Trebbiano grapes and the red Bardolino and Valpolicella, from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinari, still constitute the lion's share of the DOC wine production in the Veneto, they are far from being the only game in a party town. Increasingly, Merlot, Cabernet and especially Pinot Grigio are gaining ground and international recognition.

Introduced to the Veneto from the neighboring Trentino and Colli Orientalli, Pinot Grigio seems to have recently captured the hearts of consumers worldwide. Fuller, richer, and more assertive than Soave, Pinot Grigio possesses personality, for which the wine-consuming public is most thankful. Yet, in spite of its rise to power and the quality of the wine it produces, even exemplary estate-bottled Pinot Grigio from the Veneto has been denied a DOC designation. Along with Cabernet and Merlot based wines, and a host of other fine varietals, Pinot Grigio from this region may only be labeled del Veneto or designated as vino del tavola (table wine). Such is the Byzantine intrigue of Italian law and wine.

Along with the production of many excellent still whites and reds the Veneto is home to a burgeoning sparkling wine trade. The best examples of this bubbly are usually labeled "Prosecco" or are made by the old-line prosecco producers from Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.

Another Veronese specialty is Recioto, made from the "recie" (ears) or top portions of the grape bunches, which have been left to dry, then crushed. The resulting wine is often sweet and rich. Amarone, a dry rendition of Recioto, offers even more complexity and flavor than the sweet Recioto. Connoisseurs consider Amarone to be one of the world's finest and most intriguing wines-a wine that combines great strength with compelling character.

If all this talk of fine Veronese wines hasn't gone to your head, just think of beautiful Lake Gorda as the backdrop for the Veneto. Steeped in vines, history and romance, the waters of this alpine lake flow out to the Adriatic, just south of Venice. Surrounded by such beauty and abundance, it is no wonder the Venetians thought they should rule the world.

A Tradition of Borrowed Abundance

The Veneto was one of the first recipients in Europe of goods provided by early explorations to the Far East. It also reaped the initial benefits of the Arab world that were brought back by returning Crusaders. Teas, herbs, spices, and grains introduced centuries ago are still prevalent in the Venetian diet. Fish and shellfish from the Adriatic are plentiful and often used in risotto. Scampi, mussels, snails, and spider crabs are also popular. Livestock, rice, and corn are raised inland, and the western hills provide game, mushrooms, and a climate suitable for aging prosciuto, salami, and cheeses, most notably Asiago and Montasio. Radicchio and endive also play an important role in the diet of the Veneto. And, although rice remains more popular than pasta in the Veneto, the region is known, too, for its handmade pastas: bigoli, spaghetti, and ravioli, in particular.

The Veneto presents a wealth of natural beauty, the viewing of which is made even more pleasant when enjoyed with a glass of local wine in hand.

Accompaniments: Generally, Fratelli Zenato's Pinot Grigio is a good wine on its own, but it also makes a nice match with all kinds of pasta, from various noodles and gnocchi all the way to ravioli, cannelloni, and tortellini, as long as they're not doused in a tomato-based sauce-pesto. Cheese, butter-and-sage, and creamy sauces are all fine, and seafood ravioli simmered in fish stock pairs brilliantly with this fine wine. Various veal-cutlet dishes are also terrific, whether as schnitzel or scallopini, as long as they're relatively simple preparations. Lasty, Pinot Grigio goes very well with some fish, especially trout and salmon.

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