Vol. 2 No. 1
Standard Selection - (1) Red, (1) White
Hahn Estates 1996 Cabernet Franc - California
Hahn Estates 1997 Chardonnay - California
Hahn Estates: Accessible Wines of Imminent Style
"Gorgeous" is the only word to describe Hahn Estates. Perched along the slopes of the Santa Lucia Highlands that give way to the Salinas Valley, its location redefines the word "beautiful". This is indeed Steinbeck country, the fabled Monterey of legend and lore. It is also home to some of California's finest and most distinctive wines produced by the Hahn Estates Vineyards.
Although the Hahn Estates label first appeared in 1991, their origin dates to the founding of the Smith S. Hook winery in 1974. In search of the perfect microclimate for Cabernet and Merlot, Nicolaus Hahn purchased the old Smith horse ranch and the adjacent cattle ranch owned by the Hooks and began planting vines. Out of the original holdings along the slopes of the Santa Lucias, and a patchwork of prime vineyard sites for Chardonnay and other varietals in Monterey, sprang Hahn Estates.
From nearly 1400 acres of some of the best vineyard land in America, Hahn Estates produces supple, silky wines of great flavor. So distinctive, in fact, are the wines, climate, soil and elevation at the estate that the BATF created the Santa Lucia Highland Appellation at the Hahns' request in 1992. To further assure the finest quality wines at the Hahn Estates, winemaker Art Nathan chooses only the choicest grapes for bottling under the estate's name; the remaining fruit is contracted out to other wineries who can truly appreciate the quality of the product.
"On top of the world looking down on creation"
Hahn Estates fashions a number of varietal wines, but Chardonnay is without a doubt, their premier white varietal. Recently, it has received more accolades than almost any other California Chardonnay; it has soared to the top of the critics' lists.
While Chardonnay reigns supreme upon the valley floor, the red Bordeaux varietals- Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot-form the red triumvirate at Hahn, holding court from the higher elevations where they seem to look down on creation. These red Bordeaux varietals require substantially more warmth and sunshine than the Chardonnay that thrives on the valley floor. At an elevation of 1200 feet, Hahn's Santa Lucia Highland Vineyards provide the right environment for red grapes as they lie well above the morning fog that so often blankets the valley. In addition, these higher vineyards have a southeasterly orientation to catch the morning sun. These two significant factors help Hahn's Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes develop the intensity and fullness of flavor for which they are renowned. Critics use the terms "bold," "classic," and "intense" when describing them. We tend to think of these wines as simply delicious.
Nicolaus Hahn: A Man of Vigilance and Vision
Nicolaus Hahn, a Swiss citizen, was raised in both the United States and Europe. Before embarking on his passion for California wine, he worked as a credit analyst in New York, an arbitrageur in Paris, and served as the chairman of Computer Associates, a leading international computer software company in Zurich. After an extensive two-year search in the early 1970's for the perfect microclimate and region to produce world class wines, Hahn settled in Monterey with his family.
The philosophy of Hahn Estates is best summarized by Nicolaus Hahn himself when he states, "Our winemaking is influenced by the technology of the New World and the traditions of the Old. We firmly believe that wines are the children of the vineyards. The winemaker is their mentor, supporting and enhancing their attributes." Needless to say, Hahn has done a superb job with his "children" and he has earned the right to be content, to sit under his vines, amid his "children" and drink a glass of his wine.
Cabernet Franc: Cinderella No More
Cabernet Franc is one of the three great red grapes of Bordeaux. Its origins in the Bordeaux region of France date back some 2000 years to the Roman era. Although Cabernet Franc figures significantly in nearly all the great red wines of Bordeaux, it remains a bit overshadowed as a varietal in America by its coquettish sister, Merlot, and its more aggressive brother, Cabernet Sauvignon. It is, however, Cabernet Franc that adds complexity and texture to Cabernet Sauvignon and body to Merlot when they are blended. And, to those who say that Cabernet Franc isn't quite as exciting on its own as a varietal, we say you haven't tried many Cabernet Francs lately. And, for the stalwarts among you who still remain unconvinced, let's not forget that one of the very greatest red wines ever produced in Bordeaux, the legendary Chateau Cheval Blanc, is nearly all Cabernet Franc and could be labeled as a varietal wine. No wonder Cabernet Franc is one of the hottest new varietals in California and it increasingly figures in the "cepage," or blend, of the top names in Cabernet Sauvignon as well. We believe that this trend will continue and Cabernet Franc's star will continue to rise because it is such a flavorful grape like Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is not really as tannic or astringent, making it easier to drink when young. Rich berry fruit and chocolate flavors are often attributed to Cabernet Franc.
Tasting notes: The 1996 Hahn Cabernet Franc was harvested under superb conditions after perfect spring and summer weather. Great flavors, sugars, and an ideal acid profile have been translated into a terrific wine. Aromas of cinnamon and anise mingle with Bordeaux-like fruit in the bouquet. Fresh blackberries, spice, and hints of chocolate fill the palate. This is a bold but very balanced wine, with smooth tannins and a long toasted vanilla finish produced by 15 months of aging in French and American cooperage. Although the Hahn Cabernet Franc will undoubtedly continue to improve in the bottle, it is so easy to drink young that very few tasters will ever taste it at full maturity.
Accompaniments: Grilled meats and spicy food pair beautifully with the Hahn Cabernet Franc. Oriental dishes, Mexican food, Cajun dishes and meat barbecue fare won't overwhelm this wine. We would even suggest that you try it with traditionally hard to match foods like pasta with artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes.
Red Wine Recipe:
Grilled Marinated Flank Steak
1 cup vegetable oil
½ cup soy sauce
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup lemon juice
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon pepper
1 large onion, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 1-lb. flank steaks
Combine first 9 ingredients in a shallow dish or a zip-top plastic bag. Add steaks. Cover or seal and refrigerate 6 hours or overnight, turning occasionally. Remove steaks and onion slices from marinade; discard marinade. Wrap onion slices in heavy-duty aluminum foil. Cook steaks and onion slices, covered with grill lid over medium-hot coals about 15 minutes or to desired degree of doneness. Cut steaks diagonally across the grain into thin strips; serve with onion slices.
Of the world's great white wines, Chardonnay is the most sought after. Each year at harvest time in both its native France and in California, and throughout the wine-growing world, Chardonnay commands the highest prices and the most attention for its grapes. In tribute, Chardonnay produces the finest, most flavorful dry white wines in the world. Wine writers and connoisseurs devote countless columns and untold hours exalting its virtues and dissecting its flavors. Chardonnay is the yardstick by which all other dry white wines have come to be measured.
From its home in the Burgundy region of France, Chardonnay has traveled the length and breadth of France. Not content to be a "stay at home lady," Chardonnay found its way to Italy in the last century and then to most of Eastern Europe before traveling the seas to Australia, Argentina, Chile, California, and New York. It is, however, only in her native Burgundy and Champagne, and in California, that Chardonnay shows her full potential and consistently produces truly great wines. The very best are stunning wines of breed, complexity and tremendous depth of flavor. In good years, the very best are full, rich, beguiling wines of golden robe and elegant, fulfilling fruit. Much of Chardonnay's character is indicative of the soil and climate from which it comes, as well as the oak barrel aging it receives. More often than any other white wine varietal, Chardonnay is fermented and /or aged in oak. The spicy vanilla qualities that one often associates with Chardonnay are usually the result of the extensive aging of Chardonnay in new oak barrels.
Tasting Notes: A wonderful forsythia color, rich aroma of buttery fruit: apples, pears, melons and mangos, followed by a long finish from its stay in toasted barrels, make the 1997 Hahn Monterey Chardonnay one of the most accessible and pleasing Chardonnays we have tasted in a long time. Having undergone Malo-Lactic fermentation, the process by which the hard malic acid in wine is transformed into the softer lactic acid, this 100% varietal Chardonnay is already balanced and beguiling, yet flamboyant in style.
Accompaniments: The 1997 Hahn Chardonnay is as equally pleasing on its own as it is with fish or fowl. Roast chicken or turkey, oysters and salmon are some of our favorite accompaniments to the Hahn Chardonnay. Its flamboyance and flavor have quickly become a favorite with a pecan encrusted salmon that we enjoy, but we have received a number of votes from friends suggesting that we pair it with a pork tenderloin- so why not experiment?
White Wine Recipe:
Salmon Pecan Bake
4 salmon fillets (4-6 oz.)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 ½ tablespoon honey
¼ cup breadcrumbs
¼ cup finely chopped pecans
2 tsp. chopped fresh parsley
lemon slices (one per fillet)
Sprinkle salmon with salt & pepper. Place fillets, skin side down in a lightly greased baking dish. Mix together mustard, butter, and honey. Brush mixture onto fillets. Combine breadcrumbs, pecans and parsley and spoon it on top of each fillet. Bake at 450° for 10-15 minutes or until salmon flakes easily. Garnish with lemon slices.
"Chardonnay is sunshine in a glass."
----a Burgundian proverb
"A man who could sit under the shade of his own vine with his wife and his children about him and the ripe clusters hanging within their reach in such a climate as this and not feel the highest enjoyment, is incapable of happiness."
----James Busby
Reading the Label of a California Wine
We thought it would be useful to provide you with some guidelines for reading a California wine label. Federal law requires wineries to provide certain information on their labels. Using the Hahn label as an example, the following guide should help you understand the information on the label.
1. The brand name of the wine (required).
2. Vintage (not required). If a vintage is shown, it means that 95% of the wine was fermented and bottled in that year.
3. Type of wine (required). This will either be generic, such as "White Table Wine" or varietal, such as "Zinfandel."
4. Region of grape origin (required). The most general designation is simply "California," meaning that 100% of the grapes came from the state. To indicate a more limited area of grape origin, such as a county (Sonoma County, for example), a growing area (Napa Valley) or a specific vineyard requires a minimum of 85% of the grapes from that area.
5. Special designation or description (not required). Sometimes additional about the type of wine is included. "Dry" or "late harvest" are typical of the more common ones.
6. Name of Bottler (required). When the label says "produced and bottled" it means that a minimum of 51% of the wine was fermented by the winery whose name appears on the bottle. It gives no indication of the origin of the grapes (see # 4).
7. Alcohol content (required). Indicates percent of alcohol by volume, usually between 10 and 15%. This percentage is approximate. The wine may actually vary as much as 1 ½% from the amount stated on the label.
Varietal Aromas and Flavors
Each wine variety has its own distinctive flavors and aromas and as you might suspect, specific descriptors can be used each. Below, we've listed the aromatic descriptors most often associated with major varietal wine categories. Flavors descriptors which are not italicized are those that come from properties of the grapes used to make the wine, while those italicized can be attributed to specific winemaking practices such as malolactic fermentation (buttery) or aging in oak (vanilla).
White Wines
Chardonnay: Fruity (apple, peach, citrus, pineapple), spicy, vanilla, buttery
Sauvignon Blanc: Floral, fruity (citrus, peach, apricot), vegetative (bell pepper, asparagus), vanilla, buttery
Riesling: Floral, fruity (citrus, peach, apricot, pineapple), honey
Gewurztraminer: Floral, fruity (citrus, grapefruit, peach), honey, spicy
Chenin Blanc: Floral, fruity (peach, citrus)
Red Wines
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc: Berry, vegetative (bell pepper, asparagus, olives), mint, black pepper, vanilla, buttery
Pinot Noir: Berry, berry jam, (strawberry, cherry), vanilla, buttery
Zinfandel: Berry (raspberry, blackberry), black pepper, raisin, vanilla, buttery
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