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1.30.2009
Surepure

For some people sensitive to sulfites, drinking wine can be both a pleasure and a curse. Now a company in South Africa has developed a technology that has the potential to revolutionize the part of the winemaking process responsible for causing such grief.

Sulfites (also spelled sulphites), are essentially sulfur dioxide compounds (SO2) added to wine in order to preserve it by inhibiting oxidation and destroying undesirable microbes. Virtually all wines contain sulfites as it is a fundamental part of the winemaking process.Unfortunately, sulfites can cause headaches and allergic reactions in some people who are particularly sensitive.

Now, a new technology called "Surepure" may dramatically reduce the amount of sulfites used by winemakers by using ultraviolet light instead. About the size of a couple of refrigerators, Surepure can process over 5,000 bottles worth of wine per hour. The wine is pumped in, is exposed to specialized UV rays, and is pumped back out.

Surepure is currently being tested by wineries in South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, California, and Chile. It is also being used as an alternative to traditional pasteurization in the dairy and juice industries

Inaugural Luncheon Wines

When the Inaugural Luncheon planning committee was looking for wines to serve to President Obama and his guests, it was wine from California that they called upon. No doubt California's Senator Diane Feinstein being the head of the planning committee had some influence! She's been a good friend of the California wine industry on Capitol Hill.

The lunch was a three course affair, starting with a seafood stew served with a Napa Valley sauvignon blanc from Duckhorn Vineyards. Second up was a duck and pheasant dish matched with an Anderson Valley pinot noir made by Goldeneye. Finally, the sponge cake dessert was paired with a sparkling wine made especially for the inauguration by Korbel in the Russian River Valley.

Since American wines have been exclusively served at US state dinners since the era of LBJ, there's no doubt Californian wines will be called upon again soon to impress visiting dignitaries, although let's hope some of the fine products produced throughout the rest of the nation have their moment in the spotlight, too!

About Barrels

Wines are aged in oak barrels in order to intensify or subdue various flavors and ultimately bring about a more complex product. Cinnamon, graphite, cedar, coconut, vanilla, hay, and clove are just some of the flavors that can be imparted into a wine from an oak barrel. But are all barrels the same, or are there differences that affect the flavor?

The type of oak used to craft the barrel is very important and will impart specific flavors to the wine. Most wine barrels are made from either French or American oak, but some are made from oak imported from Russia or other places in Eastern Europe.

Barrels are also fired on the inside in a process called "toasting," with the amount of char complementing different grape varietals and desired wine styles. The more char, the faster the oak flavors make their way into the wine. Additionally, the tightness of the wood's grain will affect the speed of the flavor transfer, with tighter grained wood taking longer. Thus, it's important for the winemaker to select barrels of the proper specifications for the style of wine he or she would like to make, and then age it for a length of time appropriate for the style (typically between a few months to two years).

Depending on the cooper (who is the manufacturer who constructs the barrel) and the type of oak used, barrels can cost several hundred dollars all the way up to about $1,500. Each time the barrel is used to age a wine, it loses some of its flavor, so some winemakers will use a barrel just once (when the flavor compounds are most intense), while other winemakers may use a barrel as many as five times or more, although at that point the barrel typically becomes "neutral" and imparts very little flavor. Often winemakers will age their wine in barrels of various ages in order to reach a specific desired flavor.

1.16.2009
White Wine is Good For You Too

Molecular biologists at the University of Connecticut School of Medicine recently published findings that show white wine can protect against heart damage in similar ways to red wine. Researchers gave different groups of lab rats red or white wine in their diets. They also gave other groups polyphenols, which have been hypothesized to be the main substances in wine responsible for its health benefits. One of the polyphenols was resveratrol, which is found in red wine and has been linked to health benefits in other studies. Additionally, some rats were given the polyphenols tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol which are found in white wine.

The researchers found that when rats that had been fed red or white wine had heart attacks, their cells experienced much less damage than rats that had been given only water or liquor. Similar benefits were seen for the rats that had been given the polyphenol compounds. Such a finding for red wine and resveratrol is not surprising given the previous research on the compound, but finding that white wine and white wine polyphenols offer similar benefits is encouraging news. The scientists believe that it's possible that the polyphenols are similar enough to each other that they operate inside cells in much the same way. So if you're a white wine lover, you can feel good knowing your red wine drinking friends aren't the only ones drinking to their health!

Thomas Jefferson: Wine Connoisseur

With the nation focused on the recent presidential election, it's an appropriate time to remember the passion for wine possessed by one of America's most important presidents and Founding Fathers, Thomas Jefferson.

Aside from his famous and vehement passion for liberty, Jefferson was a man of many interests, perhaps none more consuming than his interest in wine. Unknown to most Americans today, some historians consider Jefferson to be the foremost wine connoisseur of his time. A lover of wine from all over Europe, especially France, Portugal, Italy, and Spain, he constructed large wine cellars at his estate of Monticello to hold thousands of bottles worth of wine. Throughout his career, he used his influence both within and outside of government to encourage imports of wine into the US. He believed that in time, the US would be capable of producing wines just as good as Europe, and to further this goal, he encouraged European winemakers to try to grow vitis vinifera vines in the US.

Upon becoming president, Jefferson moved in to the White House and immediately began construction of a wine cellar under the property to store many bottles and barrels of imported wine, which he purchased himself. From his presidential salary of $25,000, he averaged over $3,000 per year in wine purchases during his first term. As the head of state, Jefferson enjoyed entertaining political allies, rivals, and visiting dignitaries, and took the opportunity to liberally serve his favorite wines and often discuss them at length. His enthusiasm was sometimes seen as excessive and occasionally annoyed his friends and fellow patriots who were not always understanding of his passion for European tastes.

Were Thomas Jefferson alive today, while likely being dismayed by much of our current political climate, he would undoubtedly be immensely proud of the wine emanating from our nation's myriad wineries. His vision of a country that can produce wine on par with that of Europe's best has materialized. Coincidentally, the famous "Judgment of Paris", in which Californian wines bested France's finest estates in a blind tasting by French judges and destroyed the idea of American winemaking inferiority, occurred in 1976, the 200 year anniversary of Jefferson's Declaration of Independence.

Smart Labels

A company called PakSense has developed a temperature monitoring label that can be applied to wine bottles or their packaging to show whether the wine has encountered any severe heat during its travels. Heat is an enemy of wine, and if wine gets too hot it can become "cooked" and loose it's liveliness or exhibit other flaws. Often times there are no external signs of heat damage, like leaking corks or corks that have begun to back out (note that these characteristics do not always mean the wine is damaged, but they are warning signs), so the special labels are a great way to verify if wine has been transported properly.

About the size of a packet of sugar, the labels are equipped with LEDs that blink green if the temperature has stayed within proper parameters, or yellow if the temperature has become too hot. The labels can be programmed for different temperature ranges and the temperature information can actually be downloaded after the wine has arrived to see exactly when the excessive temperature occurred. In addition to indicating potentially damaged wine, the new labels are providing peace of mind to winemakers who, up until this point, have simply had to wonder whether their wine actually survives its journey to its destination with the taste profile the winemaker intended.

Nuclear Physics Authenticates Vintage Wines

The Antique Wine Company of London, England, needed a way to authenticate the antique wines they sell every day for thousands of dollars per bottle, so they teamed up with the National Center for Scientific Research in France to develop a technique. The method employs beams of ions shot at the bottles by a particle accelerator and analyzes the resultant x-ray spectrum. By comparing the results of the suspect bottle with those of known, authentic bottles from the same winery and the same era, the scientists can tell if it is the real thing, or if it's a fake bottle produced at a different time and place.

The method tests the glass of the bottle, not the contents, so in theory a bottle could be authenticated but really have been refilled. To address this concern, scientists can use another technique that measures the levels of a radioactive isotope of cesium present in the wine itself. Interestingly, the cesium is the result of the fallout from the nuclear weapons testing of the latter half of the 20th Century, so wines from after about 1950 can be correctly dated this way. And, if an antique bottle has been refilled with modern wine to be passed off as original, it can easily be discovered.

Chinese Wine?

Recent decades have seen numerous regions of the world emerge as major new players in the global wine market. California is arguably the most famous New World wine producing region, but it has been joined by places as varied as Chile, Australia, South Africa, New Zealand, and Argentina. Fifty years ago it would have seemed laughable to forgo a French or Italian wine in favor of a product from one of these places, but as competition and quality has increased, unquestionably that is no longer the case.

Now, wine enthusiasts are wondering if the same scenario will play out with China. Geographically a very large nation, China has varied climates with both coastal and arid inland regions. The famed 45th parallel, which passes through Italy's Piedmont, France's Bordeaux, as well as Oregon, also passes through Xinjiang province, one of several wine producing areas in China, including Shandong, Hebei, Sichuan, and Jilin. In recent years, winemakers who learned their craft in famed winemaking areas in France and the US have turned their attention to developing the wine industry in China.

While traditionally fond of beer and the native liquor baijiu, the Chinese are increasingly receptive to their growing domestic wine industry, and wine bars are cropping up more and more. While many critics view Chinese wine as still largely below the quality of more established regions, one factor is likely to change that: competition. As China grows economically, the disposable incomes of its citizens also grow, and this wealth and increased standard of living is fueling an interest in fine imported wines from France, Italy, Australia, etc. As the Chinese palate becomes more experienced and sophisticated, domestic producers will be forced to up their game in order to maintain market share.

With so much land available for cultivation, and an industry that will inevitably improve with experience and an interested domestic market, it may be just a matter of time before China is contributing truly fine wines to the world market. As quickly as Australian, Chilean, and New Zealand wines have risen to global prominence, we may soon see China stepping into the role of intriguing newcomer. Don't be surprised to see Chinese wines gracing the shelves of your favorite wine store in the years to come.

Cartoon Drives Asian Wine Sales

Retail wine sales in Japan, South Korea, and other Asian countries are soaring, and a Japanese manga comic series is driving the trend. The series, entitled Kami no Shizuku (The Drops of the Gods), follows wine critic Shizuku Kanzaki in his quest for the twelve greatest wines in the world. While Shizuku may be fictional, the wines he reviews, and the effect those reviews have on the comic's audience, most certainly are not.

About a half-million Japanese readers enjoy the series each week and millions of compilation editions have been sold. Wines that are mentioned in the cartoon often turn into instant huge sellers and their prices are sent skyrocketing. Additionally, the cartoon is pushing wine drinkers in Japan to become more sophisticated in their tastes, and courses in wine appreciation are seeing their attendance swell to capacity.

After being translated into Korean, the enthusiasm for Shizuku's ongoing story has spread into South Korea, causing an explosion of wine sales. The excitement has only increased now that a popular Korean actor has signed on to play Shizuku in a drama.

While certainly being an unusual way to boost wine sales, we think anything that causes increased awareness and appreciation of fine wine is a good thing. It underscores the global nature of the wine market and as Asian consumers begin to demand more quality wines, the future prospects for the world's fine winemakers looks good indeed.

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