It is said that the Catalan is only half a Spaniard. Descended from ancient Iberians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths and more, Catalans retain their own language and culture. In this autonomous region of northern Spain, just south of France and the towering Pyrenees, the exuberant Catalans speak their own language - Catalan - a Romance language that is closely related to Provencal. Typically, Catalans speak Spanish only with outsiders. With Barcelona as its capital, Catalans have managed to transform their Mediterranean enclave, comprising only 6% of Spain, into the leading economic region of Spain, accounting for more than 25% of its gross national product.

In a tradition steeped land, long repressed for its independent ways, Catalonia has come to epitomize the Catalan word seny, the ability to exercise common sense, make money and get things done, but with daring and panache.

An energetic, flavorful land, Catalonia never ceases to amaze us by how closely the wine of the region resembles its people. Is there any doubt that the Cava of Catalonia is the finest in the land? It exhibits the fresh delicacy of champagne without the harshness. Now, that's seny. And let's not forget the sophisticated, increasingly full-flavored wines of Priorat and Montsant, two appellations known for their outstanding red wines from old vines Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cariñena (Carignan). They are some of the finest and most sought after red wines. Now, that's seny.

Cava: Catalonian Bubbly

Cava may not sound like Champagne, but it tastes a lot like it. Produced by the traditional champagne method of fermenting the wine in the bottle, Cava is Spain's answer and some would even say rebuke to Champagne. More fine champagne method sparkling wine flows out of Catalonia than anywhere else on earth, including Champagne. The limestone hills beyond Barcelona provide the ideal soil condition, nearly identical to that of Champagne, for the cultivation of the native Xarelo-lo, Parellada, Viura, and Macabeo grapes for sparkling wine. With the addition of champagne yeasts during the fermentation, the high-acid musts of Catalonia yield sparkling wines of rich flavor, softness and finesse to rival those of Champagne itself. Where Cava may even have the "edge" is in its soft, round, lingering finish - the antithesis of French Champagne which can often possess just a bit too much nerve and acidity in its aftertaste or finish.

Although Cava can be made in many areas of Spain, it is the Catalan versions from Penedès that have formed the bulwark of quality and captured the world's attention. Centered near the town of San Sadurni de Noya, 20 miles west of Barcelona, the production of Cava has taken the world by storm. In the past thirty years, the export of Cava has grown from a relative trickle to Spain's leading wine export; Cava is presently the world's number one selling champagne method sparkling wine.

Priorat and Montsant

Although many wine drinkers have become acquainted with the fine wines of Spain and the names Rioja and Ribera del Duero are now familiar entities in wine stores and restaurants, Catalonia's Priorat remains relatively unknown except to serious, well-heeled wine lovers. A sparsely populated comarca (county) to the southwest of Barcelona, Priorat (pree-ohr-aht) remains off the beaten tourist track. The same obscurity can be claimed by the nearby appellation (Denominación de Origen or DO) of Montsant. However, all this may be about to change as Priorat is currently being hailed as "the new Tuscany" and "the source of some of the world's greatest wines." By adventurous travelers and savvy wine critics alike, Priorat is touted as the next great travel destination and the next must purchase wine. And nearby Montsant is not far behind.

Priorat is the birthplace of Antoni Gaudi, the celebrated Catalan architect whose hand is imbedded in the skyline of Barcelona. Priorat is also a rugged, breathtaking landscape of high mountains and sheep-studded pastures in which every village and hamlet appears steeped in history. Here the first Carthusian Monastery in Spain was founded in the 12th century. And during the 20th century, one of the greatest and most decisive battles of the Spanish Civil War took place in Priorat on the banks of the Ebro River. However, what sets Priorat above other, more renowned wine producing regions is its expanse of ancient, ungrafted vines of Garnacha (Grenache) and Cariñena (Carignan) to which varying amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot are added. What results is lush, full-bodied, natural tasting wine. Moreover, the best wines of Priorat age remarkably well and can compete with the finest wines made anywhere in the world. Unfortunately, the finest Priorat wines are increasingly priced accordingly.

The central part of Priorat, often referred to as Priorat històric, is famous for its llicorella soil, a mixture of brown slate and solid rock. Here all of Priorat's premium grape varieties thrive in the dry, continental climate that for all intents and purposes may as well be light years away from the nearby Mediterranean Sea, a mere twenty miles distant. However, no where on earth do Grenache and Carignan express themselves with such force and dignity as in Spain's Priorat.

Montsant is demographically and legally part of the Priorat comarca. It is the appellation for the wine producing regions of the county that are not entitled to the Priorat (Denominación de Origen Calificada or DOC). However, the two respective appellations share much in common. Montsant cultivates the same grape varieties as Priorat, and both Catalonian zones share a similar soil and climate. On the whole, the wines of Priorat are a bit fuller and richer than those of Montsant, but Montsant can be easier to understand at the outset and still develop considerable complexity. For the moment, the wines of Montsant are typically less expensive than those from Priorat, but the price gap is rapidly closing, so consider yourself forewarned. Almost certainly, we will be hearing much more from both these privileged appellations in the near future, and with good reason: the quality is there.